So what's the deal with the Polar CS600?

Show me the data!

Seriously, is there any chance someone can scan and post the complete versions of the 2 articles? The one linked to from the ibike site only shows the ibike section (obviously) on the individual PMs.

The problem I have with them going to "great lengths" to set up the Polar is that they probaby followed the Polar instructions...which IMHO is not much help at all in ensuring an accurate setup. They should've asked ME how to set it up

The main reason I'm speculating a setup issue is that I personally ran a Polar PM setup (S710) vs. a Powertap Pro for over a month on the same bike. The only difference I saw between the readings of the 2 devices was the expected difference due to drivetrain losses (i.e. ~5-10W).

 

It seems as though one of the critical variables of getting "close" to true power readings from the Polar unit is to ensure that it is set up correctly. And there seems to be speculation that the manual for setting up the system is flawed. So my question is: "How would someone without a powertap set up on the same bike know whether or not the polar unit is giving accurate power readings?" If it's "consistently" reading +-20 watts compared to a calibrated system, would that still be good enough for training and to track progress in fitness.


Since I live in Austin, maybe I should call Lance out for a ride to get his opinion!

 

That's the thing...if it's consistently reading off by that much (and it will more likely be a percentage, rather than a fixed offset) that's a simple case of either the chain weight being entered incorrectly or the chainstay length being mismeasured and entered.

If it's off only in certain gears (typically where the chain is furthest away from the sensor) that's going to be a case of the module not being spaced correctly from the chain.

In either case, without another power meter to run it against, the best you can do is to do a hillclimb and compare it to something like www.analyticcycling.com . When I do that, I'm typically within a handful of watts of the prediction.

IMHO, one of the advantages of the Polar system is that if you just do a couple of simple measurements (i.e. chain weight, chainstay length, and chain to module spacing) there isn't ANYTHING else that should go wrong with the power calculation. It's VERY simple math.

 

Just to let you know there is a one page ad for the Polar CS 600 during the the review. The Polar hardly got a favourable review. i would post a copy here for people to read but i wouldn't want to infringe any copyright laws.
If you do seriously want to check it out PM me with a home postal address and i will scan and post a copy for you ( i only have the second part, which is the important part). I am considering the Polar and when i saw this test i was a bit unsure, what are other peoples thoughts? I have heard good and bad for all power meters. I want to know more about the Polar. Is the new one any good?

 

I think it's quite possible that they had a defective surfboard. See my post here.

 

I have seen another comparison (independent) that included the earlier Polar model. The margin of error was not quite as high as this review, but non the less, the Polar products seem to have issues in this area.

IMO, it is better to buy a slightly more expensive/reliable product the first time, rather than purchase an "ecomony" model, find out you're not satisfied, and then purchase the better product.

I believe the Polar is a quality company. However, I have purchased some of their other products (which weren't that inexpensive), had accuracy problems, and then purchased a competitors product to replace the Polar.

Power meters and other such equipment are ment to provide measurements for us to evaluate in order to improve. If the data we are receiving is not accurate, the rest of the process is contaminated from the very beginning.

If you really want the best bang for your buck, buy a used PT SL from a friend or on Ebay, Craigs List, etc. There will be plenty available now that everyone is switching over to 2.4. You will get the accuracy that is necessary to truly evaluate and improve your training and it will only cost you around $750 - $900 and will probably already be laced up on a wheel.

 

http://www.cyclingforums.com/showthread.php?p=3272967#post3272967