soft shocks, adjustable?

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Tj Poseno, Jul 17, 2003.

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  1. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    Is there any way to get my POS wal mart dual suspension (single pivot) shock to take more? If I come
    off curbing I can bottom it out no problem, I cranked up my preload spring, but it isnt enough, it
    is still too soft. Can i buy stiffer srpings, I have a 750LB/in i only weigh 150lbs. But the shock
    is at a near 45 degree angle. Please help.
     
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  2. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    "TJ Poseno" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > Is there any way to get my POS wal mart dual suspension (single pivot) shock to take more? If I
    > come off curbing I can bottom it out no problem, I cranked up my preload spring, but it isnt
    > enough, it is still too soft. Can i buy stiffer srpings, I have a 750LB/in i only weigh 150lbs.
    > But the shock is at a near 45 degree angle. Please help.

    You might be able to find a Mountain Speed spring in a heavier weight ordered at your LBS. You
    should find two numbers on the coil, you already found one, the 750lb/in and X 2.0 for example after
    it shows the total travel of the spring in inches. Be careful cranking down on the preload as you
    will find the coils of the spring crashing into each other when the shock is compressed. Which could
    severely damage the shock or the frame. Shock angle doesn't have anything to do with spring size
    just the leverage ratio of the suspension.

    Mike
     
  3. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    > You might be able to find a Mountain Speed spring in a heavier weight ordered at your LBS. You
    > should find two numbers on the coil, you already found one, the 750lb/in and X 2.0 for example
    > after it shows the total travel of the spring in inches. Be careful cranking down on the preload
    > as you will find the coils of the spring crashing into each other when the shock is compressed.
    > Which could severely damage the shock or the frame. Shock angle doesn't have anything to do with
    > spring size just the leverage ratio of the suspension.
    >
    > Mike

    I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new springs.
    What would they go for.
     
  4. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    "TJ Poseno" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > >
    > > You might be able to find a Mountain Speed spring in a heavier weight ordered at your LBS. You
    > > should find two numbers on the coil, you
    already
    > > found one, the 750lb/in and X 2.0 for example after it shows the total travel of the spring in
    > > inches. Be careful cranking down on the preload
    as
    > > you will find the coils of the spring crashing into each other when the shock is compressed.
    > > Which could severely damage the shock or the
    frame.
    > > Shock angle doesn't have anything to do with spring size just the
    leverage
    > > ratio of the suspension.
    > >
    > > Mike
    >
    > I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new
    > springs. What would they go for.

    Somewhere around $35-45 bucks.

    Mike
     
  5. > I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new
    > springs. What would they go for.

    Don't bother if your bike is crap in the first place.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  6. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new
    > > springs. What would they go for.
    >
    > Don't bother if your bike is crap in the first place.

    Yeah, the bike was $100 new, im going to maybe see if I can find some other way to stiffen it up, or
    maybe modify the swingarm. Because if i go in the driveway and pedal hard for say a wheelie, the
    rear sinks almost to the bottoming out point. Any ideas on how to stiffen it for cheao, since the
    bike really isnt worth it.

    Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the point i
    had to use a hammer to get them out.
     
  7. > Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the point
    > i had to use a hammer to get them out.

    Judging by the way you ride, you deserve better. It seems that you may be short on cash, so you
    might want to invest in a low-end dual suspension that costs around $500-600. (Religious "must spend
    no less than $1500 on a DS" people shut up) When shopping retail for a bike, the price definitely
    reflects the quality.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  8. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the
    > > point i had to use a hammer to get them out.
    >
    > Judging by the way you ride, you deserve better. It seems that you may be short on cash, so you
    > might want to invest in a low-end dual suspension that costs around $500-600. (Religious "must
    > spend no less than $1500 on a DS" people shut up) When shopping retail for a bike, the price
    > definitely reflects the quality.

    thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i want
    disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!
     
  9. > thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i want
    > disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!

    About those disc brakes... Beware.

    I wanted discs really badly too a while back, so when I built my old bike up with a new disc system,
    I thought I had it made. But I had 500 piece of shit miles before the pads disappeared. Plus, there
    was no auto-adjustment for pad wear so I would have to add stupid shims underneath the pads every
    100 miles. I couldn't even do stoppies with those brakes!!! I sold them for $2. Rotors and all.

    I now run V-brakes on my MTB. They are SO much better than the discs I had, and they've scared the
    shit out of some of my experienced riding friends who've ridden it. Given good rims and good pad
    material, V-brakes are comparable to good discs.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  10. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i
    > > want disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!
    >
    > About those disc brakes... Beware.
    >
    > I wanted discs really badly too a while back, so when I built my old bike up with a new disc
    > system, I thought I had it made. But I had 500 piece of shit miles before the pads disappeared.
    > Plus, there was no auto-adjustment for pad wear so I would have to add stupid shims underneath the
    > pads every 100 miles. I couldn't even do stoppies with those brakes!!! I sold them for $2. Rotors
    > and all.
    >
    > I now run V-brakes on my MTB. They are SO much better than the discs I had, and they've scared the
    > shit out of some of my experienced riding friends who've ridden it. Given good rims and good pad
    > material, V-brakes are comparable to good discs.

    I know V brakes are good, mine are fairly good, just the springs wear out too fast. but i wanted
    discs because im sick of messng with ajsutments, and if i have a out of true rim, i dont have to
    worry about that pulsign feeling. I will have to test the bike somewhere before i buy one.
     
  11. Chris B .

    Chris B . Guest

    On 19 Jul 2003 16:45:20 -0700, [email protected] (TJ Poseno) wrote:

    >"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    >news:<[email protected]>...
    >> > Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the
    >> > point i had to use a hammer to get them out.
    >>
    >> Judging by the way you ride, you deserve better. It seems that you may be short on cash, so you
    >> might want to invest in a low-end dual suspension that costs around $500-600. (Religious "must
    >> spend no less than $1500 on a DS" people shut up) When shopping retail for a bike, the price
    >> definitely reflects the quality.
    >
    >thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i want
    >disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!

    Just like linear pull (V-) brakes, disc brakes can be both really good or downright terrible. In
    fact lousy discs will probably need more fiddling than lousy V-brakes. I'd strongly suggest getting
    a Shimano Deore or Avid Single Digit 3 or 5 linear pull brake for your current bike - at least for
    the front - and perhaps a nicer set of levers too (Avid Speed Dials offer adjustment for a decent
    entry level price though I like the ergonomics of my Shimano LX's better).

    I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the $500
    price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates
    matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used
    parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full
    suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on the
    bike in order for it to meet that price point.

    --

    Chris Bird
     
  12. > I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the
    > $500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates
    > matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used
    > parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full
    > suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on
    > the bike in order for it to meet that price point.

    I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both
    to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride
    on urban assaults. A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to
    huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  13. Chris B .

    Chris B . Guest

    On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:12:55 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >> I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the
    >> $500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates
    >> matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used
    >> parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full
    >> suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on
    >> the bike in order for it to meet that price point.
    >
    >I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both
    >to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride
    >on urban assaults.

    But doesn't he already have a low end dual suspension bike and isnt that what's causing him problems
    in the first place? We must be imaging entirely different scenarios here. If he is throwing the
    thing around then buying a new or used dual slalom/dirt jump frame (rather than a 3.5 lb XC frame)
    and sticking as large a tire as possible (pumped to a reasonable pressure) on it would allow him to
    shell out plenty of abuse. If money is super tight he can get dig up a department store rigid frame
    and save his money for a decent fork, I can't imagine the fork that would come on a $500 FS would
    cope with BMX style riding anyway. With the exception of the goofball riding his 8" travel downhill
    bike off a curb, proper technique will have to be learned regardless.

    >A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to huck around
    >concrete curbs and metal signposts.

    No hardtail would be appropriate to replace a frame with a nonadjustable shock which nearly bottoms
    out when he wheelies and which has bent bolts where the shock mounts to the frame? Instead he should
    use a 2 or 3 inch travel $500 full suspension bike (equipped with discs of course!) which will have
    what quality of shock absorber???

    --

    Chris Bird
     
  14. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    Heres what ive got: I have a Roadmaster steel dual suspension with a junk fornt fork, and junk rear
    shock, I ride it every once in a while when going off road, mostly trails and some hardcore with
    friends, its held up ok. 39LBS

    I have a huffy aluminum hardtail with a ok front fork. Thats my daily rider, its got slicks in the
    middle and knobs on the outside, so its mostly road. 34LBS

    And a skinny tired road bike, mostly for long rides with no trails.

    I want the wing elite for a much more reliable bike. I assume its more reliable then a wal-mart
    bike. Something i can ride road (for training. sinice its DS and knobbies) and for trail riding.

    If i did get teh bike, i might invest in a rear shock with lockouts. Its basicly a biek i can buy
    for cheap, with a fairly nice frame, that in the future i can slowly buy better parts.

    anyone knwo what the weight is on that bike
     
  15. "Chris B." <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:12:55 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    > >> I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the
    > >> $500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear
    > >> complicates matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500
    > >> in good used parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good
    > >> frame than a full suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that
    > >> have to be spec'd on the bike in order for it to meet that price point.
    > >
    > >I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due
    > >both to the bike being ridden and the fact that the
    OP
    > >was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride on urban assaults.
    >
    > But doesn't he already have a low end dual suspension bike and isnt that what's causing him
    > problems in the first place? We must be imaging entirely different scenarios here. If he is
    > throwing the thing around then buying a new or used dual slalom/dirt jump frame (rather than a 3.5
    > lb XC frame) and sticking as large a tire as possible (pumped to a reasonable pressure) on it
    > would allow him to shell out plenty of abuse. If money is super tight he can get dig up a
    > department store rigid frame and save his money for a decent fork, I can't imagine the fork that
    > would come on a $500 FS would cope with BMX style riding anyway. With the exception of the
    > goofball riding his 8" travel downhill bike off a curb, proper technique will have to be learned
    > regardless.
    >
    > >A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too
    valuable
    > >to huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts.
    >
    > No hardtail would be appropriate to replace a frame with a nonadjustable shock which nearly
    > bottoms out when he wheelies and which has bent bolts where the shock mounts to the frame? Instead
    > he should use a 2 or 3 inch travel $500 full suspension bike (equipped with discs of course!)
    > which will have what quality of shock absorber???

    Decent quality isn't the issue here. Well it doesn't SEEM to be the issue to me. I think that the
    price really is the limiting factor at this point. It seems that TJ wants another DS to replace the
    current DS. And he let us know that he's got a HT too.

    TJ, if you have the money, by all means go out and buy a DECENT bike from a bike shop. They will
    have quality much higher than what you've ridden so far, and you will take it and not look back.

    If you don't have the money, then by all means, keep your stable current with a new DS and your HT
    and RB. Just be careful. But don't settle for Walmart bikes for your entire life. I was in your
    position just a year ago. I decided to build up my first non-walmart bike out of parts from eBay.
    When I was done, I said, "Holy shit, I can't keep the front end down because it's so light! It spins
    a bit faster and it's much plusher and I can do a few more tricks on it now that it's lighter."

    Think about it. We all urge you not to dump money into superstore crap, when it can be used towards
    something that's pretty damn good. Ask a local bike shop if you can put a full-value deposit (in the
    form of a personal check) down while you ride it for a day. Most won't let you do that, but at least
    a ride in the parking lot will let you know what's available.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  16. Tj Poseno

    Tj Poseno Guest

    The wal mart bikes i have now will definatly be the last. The road bike is a mid range (well i think
    so anyway) road bike from a while ago, so its plently reliable, so i will keep that. But i will be
    really happy when I finally get a real bike.
     
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