Solving my adjuster problem

"JG" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

My old Ritchey frame has cantilevers and a traditional style 4mm
eyelet stop in the back without any provision for an adjuster. I had
been using a Jagwire inline adjuster on the brakeline in the front,
but it was kind of clumsy as one end was 6mm i.d. and the other 5.6mm
i.d. I suppose that may have been deliberate to allow the adjuster to
rest at an angle. When I rehoused the lines with Jagwire Ripcord, I
started worrying about protecting the housing ends with the proper
ferrules, and in looking at alternative setups, I discovered that
Jagwire does not qualify any of it's inline adjusters for brake
lines. It's probably just corporate waryness, but...

Anyway, I then hit upon the idea of using their noodle with adjuster
at the rear stop. The conical ferrule on the noodle works real well
with the eyelet, as it is securely located, but can rotate to accomode
the cable coming around the seatpost. All that was left was to
straighten out the 90 degree bend and make sure it didn't rattle
against the seattube or post... Eventually done, but in a last
attempt to sculpt the tube into an optimal shape, I manage to crimp
the tube... And it was not terribly convenient when threading the
line through the long ridgid noodle... The adjuster had worked loose
from its crimped fitting by this time, so I pulled out the Dremel and
chopped the tube down to a stump with the ferrule.

Voila! The adjuster went right back on, and now sits just above the
stop with plenty of room for the housing to conform around the
seatpost. The conical ferrule allows it to rest about 10 degrees
skewed to the side without abusing the cable. Looks like the long
term solution, unless I can ever find out what a Tektro 420.5 is all
about...

JG

Hi JG,
Don't know if we had the same situation, but my aluminum Redline cyclocross
bike had just a stop in a short section of metal tube on the rear brake
bridge for the cable housing to butt against, with no provision for an
adjuster. Bought the sort of adjuster that used to be part of cheap brakes
(a threaded aluminum tube with a top section that accepts cable housing, and
a lock nut that fits the threaded portion). Drilled and tapped the existing
stop on the brake bridge, threaded the aluminum adjuster in, and life got
better. Tapping it was a little trouble, as I had to kludge up an extension
for the tap to be able to get a handle on it. Did the same thing on the
front of the bike, too.
Kerry

Kerry Montgomery said:

"JG" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

My old Ritchey frame has cantilevers and a traditional style 4mm
eyelet stop in the back without any provision for an adjuster. I had
been using a Jagwire inline adjuster on the brakeline in the front,
but it was kind of clumsy as one end was 6mm i.d. and the other 5.6mm
i.d. I suppose that may have been deliberate to allow the adjuster to
rest at an angle. When I rehoused the lines with Jagwire Ripcord, I
started worrying about protecting the housing ends with the proper
ferrules, and in looking at alternative setups, I discovered that
Jagwire does not qualify any of it's inline adjusters for brake
lines. It's probably just corporate waryness, but...

Quoted message said:

Anyway, I then hit upon the idea of using their noodle with adjuster
at the rear stop. The conical ferrule on the noodle works real well
with the eyelet, as it is securely located, but can rotate to accomode
the cable coming around the seatpost. All that was left was to
straighten out the 90 degree bend and make sure it didn't rattle
against the seattube or post... Eventually done, but in a last
attempt to sculpt the tube into an optimal shape, I manage to crimp
the tube... And it was not terribly convenient when threading the
line through the long ridgid noodle... The adjuster had worked loose
from its crimped fitting by this time, so I pulled out the Dremel and
chopped the tube down to a stump with the ferrule.

Quoted message said:

Voila! The adjuster went right back on, and now sits just above the
stop with plenty of room for the housing to conform around the
seatpost. The conical ferrule allows it to rest about 10 degrees
skewed to the side without abusing the cable. Looks like the long
term solution, unless I can ever find out what a Tektro 420.5 is all
about...

Quoted message said:

JG

Hi JG,
Don't know if we had the same situation, but my aluminum Redline cyclocross
bike had just a stop in a short section of metal tube on the rear brake
bridge for the cable housing to butt against, with no provision for an
adjuster. Bought the sort of adjuster that used to be part of cheap brakes
(a threaded aluminum tube with a top section that accepts cable housing, and
a lock nut that fits the threaded portion). Drilled and tapped the existing
stop on the brake bridge, threaded the aluminum adjuster in, and life got
better. Tapping it was a little trouble, as I had to kludge up an extension
for the tap to be able to get a handle on it. Did the same thing on the
front of the bike, too.
Kerry- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are a braver man than me!-)
JG

On Thu, 9 Aug 2007 22:28:00 -0700, "Kerry Montgomery" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Hi JG,
Don't know if we had the same situation, but my aluminum Redline cyclocross
bike had just a stop in a short section of metal tube on the rear brake
bridge for the cable housing to butt against, with no provision for an
adjuster. Bought the sort of adjuster that used to be part of cheap brakes
(a threaded aluminum tube with a top section that accepts cable housing, and
a lock nut that fits the threaded portion). Drilled and tapped the existing
stop on the brake bridge, threaded the aluminum adjuster in, and life got
better. Tapping it was a little trouble, as I had to kludge up an extension
for the tap to be able to get a handle on it. Did the same thing on the
front of the bike, too.

Thanks for the report, I'm considering such a project for my ancient conquest.
Be nice to have decent adjusters.

Ron