Spinergy wheel repair



ovalbackmarker

New Member
Oct 1, 2006
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I just picked up a set of Spinergy wheels. The rear wheel had a lot of side to side runout. Upon inspection I found that on the non drive side, the spokes had lost their adhesion to the hub. I moved the rim until it ran true and then used an industrial super glue to hold it. I plan on adding more adhesive and finishing with epoxy. Has anyone tried this? Any better ideas? I'm sure this has happened to someone else.
 
:eek: I foresee a future involving a sudden and catastophic failure... But I'm known for worrying about the life of carbon fibre parts on bicycles, so it goes without saying that I'd throw them away and buy something new.
 
threaded said:
:eek: I foresee a future involving a sudden and catastophic failure... But I'm known for worrying about the life of carbon fibre parts on bicycles, so it goes without saying that I'd throw them away and buy something new.
+1. I wouldn't ride 'em.
 
ovalbackmarker said:
I just picked up a set of Spinergy wheels. The rear wheel had a lot of side to side runout. Upon inspection I found that on the non drive side, the spokes had lost their adhesion to the hub. I moved the rim until it ran true and then used an industrial super glue to hold it. I plan on adding more adhesive and finishing with epoxy.
So it is an old joint that has opened up, not a crack through the material?
That probably means that :
1)Someone messed things up at the original manufacturing
or
2)this model was poorly engineered in terms of the design of the glued seam(not enough surface, too big/narrow gap etc)
or
3)the wheel has seen extreme loads during use

If 1), how do you rate your chances of doing a better surface prep or glue application than the original manufacturer?
If 2), how do you rate your chances that your glue today, considering your limited ability to do surface prep, will result in a stronger seam than the original glue?
if 3) and assuming your glueing skills are good, and that your currently available glue is about as strong as the original one you might end up with a useable wheel again.

Smearing more adhesives across the joint will add very little extra strength, unless there's some extra surface available where you can build up and anchor some more laminate.
 
I may have not been clear enough in my original post. The loss of adhesion is where the LH disc/spokes attatches to the hub. The hub protrudes through the spokes so there is no danger of the wheel falling apart. I cleaned the entire area with gasket prep to clean it. I next ran thin CA adhesive into the area to fill the voids. I finished with a fillet of medium CA and sprayed it with instant CA set. The wheel ran perfectly true. I rode it Saturday for 55 miles and put it in the truing stand,it still runs true.This has to be how the wheel was originally trued.