Spoke replacement



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Peter Main

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I want to replace a rear broken spoke of the 'freehub' side. Do I really have to remove the
cassette, the axel and bearing and the freehub mechanism just to replace one spoke? If so waht a
tedious lengthy job and what a design failure.

Peter Main Scotland
 
> I want to replace a rear broken spoke of the 'freehub' side. Do I really have to remove the
> cassette, the axel and bearing and the freehub mechanism just to replace one spoke?

Just the cassette.

--
Tom Barker
 
"Tom Barker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> > I want to replace a rear broken spoke of the 'freehub' side. Do I really have to remove the
> > cassette, the axel and bearing and the freehub
mechanism
> > just to replace one spoke?
>
> Just the cassette.
>

In the case of shimano you can have a the cassette off and on in seconds.

I actually think it is very well designed.
 
Frank X wrote:

> In the case of shimano you can have a the cassette off and on in seconds.
>
> I actually think it is very well designed.
>
>
If you have a big spanner, an HG tool and a chain whip ;-)
 
"Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Frank X wrote:
>
>
> > In the case of shimano you can have a the cassette off and on in
seconds.
> >
> > I actually think it is very well designed.
> >
> >
> If you have a big spanner, an HG tool and a chain whip ;-)

see recent threads on hypercrackers...

cheers, clive
 
Possibly I didn't make myself clear. I got the cassette off but there was no space between the
freehub (the freewheel bit) and the flange to get the spoke in without severe bending. There must be
an easier way!

Pete Main Scotland

"Peter Main" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I want to replace a rear broken spoke of the 'freehub' side. Do I really have to remove the
> cassette, the axel and bearing and the freehub
mechanism
> just to replace one spoke? If so waht a tedious lengthy job and what a design failure.
>
> Peter Main Scotland
 
Peter Main wrote:
>
> Possibly I didn't make myself clear. I got the cassette off but there was no space between the
> freehub (the freewheel bit) and the flange to get the spoke in without severe bending. There must
> be an easier way!

Sounds like you have a hub with a screw-on freewheel, and not a freeHUB

--
Marten Gerritsen cycle-imports & framebuilding

infoAMPERSANDmHYPHENgineeringDOTnl www.M-Gineering.nl
 
Peter Main wrote:
> Possibly I didn't make myself clear. I got the cassette off but there was no space between the
> freehub (the freewheel bit) and the flange to get the spoke in without severe bending. There must
> be an easier way!

The spoke hole shouldn't be obscured.

How much is "severe"? Some bending may be required during fitting. This won't do any harm as long as
the spoke doesn't get kinked.

Push/pull the spoke all the way through first (until head is flush with flange), straight, then the
elbow bend will allow it to be rotated and laced into position.

~PB
 
"M-Gineering import & framebouw" <"kijk maar op m-gineering.nl als je het echt wil"@wet.en> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> Peter Main wrote:
> >
> > Possibly I didn't make myself clear. I got the cassette off but there
was no
> > space between the freehub (the freewheel bit) and the flange to get the spoke in without severe
> > bending. There must be an easier way!
>
> Sounds like you have a hub with a screw-on freewheel, and not a freeHUB
>

Either way, all you need to do is get the sprockets off whether they be a cassette or a screw on
block. The only obstacle you'll come acoss is the rest of the spokes. Don't worry about bending the
spokes, it won't do them any real harm.

Check the condition of the rest of the spokes - if you've dropped the chain off into the spokes,
you'll have damaged 1/4 of the spokes in the wheel at least. Might as well only strip it down once
after all...

--
Adam Dugmore

Kawasaki ZZR600-E6 - Purple! Honda CB500R - Dead and Gone :eek:( Kona Explosif - Sparkly! Kona
Explosif -
 
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