On the Fritz writes:
>>>> I am rebuilding a bike rim and i cant figure out how to work the
>>>> triple spoke pattern on the rear tire. any advise.
>>> Around here, we consult the guru:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
>>> If that doesn't answer your questions, nothing will.
Well, that may be a bit absolute. There are other sources for this
information that go into more detail than one would like to put on a
web site. That is an advantage of having it in hard copy in hand so
that you can skip what you don't need.
>> Good stuff. I've used that guide to walk me through lacing up a
>> few wheels, as I always forget how to do a basic 3X by the time I
>> need to build another. The best advice he gives is how to modify a
>> Phillips driver bit to fit the spoke nipple by almost grinding off
>> two of the nubs.
Get a nipple-driver by all means:
http://www.sapim.be/index.php?st=products&sub=racetools
>> Lacing's not the hard part, it's simple and methodical. Hard part
>> is properly bringing the wheel up to tension while keeping it true
>> and round.
In "the Bicycle Wheel" all cross patterns are arrived upon from the
same starting point. The cross pattern is decided when the outbound
spokes are connected to the rim, so there is no memorizing a routine
and no special lacing method.
> Peter Chisholm (wheel builder guru) says that it is important to get
> that wheel round -=BEFORE=- you start truing the side to side
> trueness of that wheel. I find that works real well for me. Also
> the Park Tool Spoke Tension Gauge is a nice little investment to
> make sure the tension is equal.
I'm definitely for that approach. A tensiometer only helps if you
know what tension is appropriate. For those who are not tone deaf,
plucking spokes to see who is too loose or too tight is foolproof for
truing.
Jobst Brandt
