Sram Upgrade?

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Peter Verdesi, Apr 23, 2008.

  1. Peter Verdesi

    Peter Verdesi New Member

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    I was toying with the idea of getting a whole Sram Red group for my Cervelo P3C and was wondering if Shimano bar end shifters will work with the Sram. It would save me the trouble of buying the Sram bar ends which are a couple hundred bucks.
     
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  2. Peter@vecchios

    [email protected] New Member

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    shimano shifters and Sram rear derailleurs are not compatible. Front derailleur doesn't care since it's friction but you are going to need to match the shifters to the rear derailleur, manufacturer-wise.
     
  3. Peter Verdesi

    Peter Verdesi New Member

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  4. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    If you're going to use bar-ends, then why are you bothering to consider putting SRAM's Red components on your bike?

    That is, if you aren't putting the double-tap shifters on your bike, what's the point OTHER than cosmetics AND/OR conspicuous consumption?
     
  5. Peter Verdesi

    Peter Verdesi New Member

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    I suppose that's a valid question. I really like the 11/26 gearing that Sram put out. I live in a hilly area and like the 26 for climbing the really steep stuff but I like the 11 for the down hill. I wish Shimano would come out with similar gearing (I've seen some custom stuff out there but I lack the technical expertise to put an 11/25 Shimano cassette together). That being said I bought a whole red group for about 1350 bucks and I'm going to resell the double taps cause I don't need them. Plus I get some serious bling points for having the Red stuff:). I'll post a picture when I'm done doing the build in a couple of days.
     
  6. oldbobcat

    oldbobcat Well-Known Member

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    $1350 is a lot to pay for one extra freewheel tooth.
     
  7. Peter@vecchios

    [email protected] New Member

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    shimano makes a 11-25/10s cogset-...
     
  8. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    OR, couldn't the Shimano 12-27 10-speed cassette be restacked without the 16t (for example) but with new 11t & 12t cogs?

    OR, is Shimano already supplying an 11-27 10-speed combination?!?
     
  9. Solanog

    Solanog New Member

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    I have an old 12-23 eight speed and substituted the 12 with a 11. So maybe the 12-27 could be converted to 11-27.
     
  10. Camilo

    Camilo New Member

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    I still don't understand. SRAM makes inexpensive, but good 11-26 cassettes in 9 and 10 speed. Why do you need an entire expensive group if all you want is the $40 cassette?
     
  11. Peter Verdesi

    Peter Verdesi New Member

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    Without getting into to much detail the short version of why I'm buying all this expensive stuff is I'm coming back from an injury which, I thought, was going to end my biking, running career. I just turned 40, doing pretty well financially and figured why not build the bike of my dreams. I'm all too aware of the fact that it's not typically the bike that wins but the engine on the bike. I think I'll always get beat by someone on a lesser bike. I train a bunch, I have a wife that puts up with my only vice (bike stuff) and I like the Sram Red Group. Here are the specs of the bike I'm putting together:

    Cervelo P3carbon
    Zipp 1080 rear 808 front
    Full Sram Red group
    Profile CarbonX aero bars
    Dura Ace Pedals

    I'm doing the Lake Placid Ironman in July so this will be the machine I'll have my butt on for the better part of five hours. I better like it.
     
  12. sideshow_bob

    sideshow_bob New Member

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    If you want to use SRAM, don't be swayed by people questioning the decision. Red is a nice groupset, is the weight saving going to be useful on a TT bike? Probably not but it's your bike, do what you want.

    You've got 3 options.

    1) If it's solely for the 11-26, use Dura Ace and put a SRAM 1070 11-26 cassette on there. Works fine, I ran one of these on some climbing wheels for a season using Ultegra, no problem at all. I later relegated the Ultegra to a box waiting for a TT build that I'll get around to at some point and rebuilt the road frame using Force anyway.

    2) Go Red, sell the STI's and buy some SRAM bar end shifters. So you end up with a full SRAM build.

    3) Use a Shimano to SRAM J-Tek shiftmate and run DA bar ends and an otherwise full Red group.

    Any of those options will do just fine on the build you are looking at.

    --brett
     
  13. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    FWIW. You actually have a FOURTH OPTION:

    Last season, the Tour bikes with SRAM sponsorship used Campagnolo 10-speed bar-end shifters (if you can't readily get the SRAM bar end shifters) ...

    Recently, Leonard Zinn echoed/confirmed this index match by mating 10-speed Campagnolo Ergo shifters with his otherwise SRAM drivetrain.
     
  14. Peter Verdesi

    Peter Verdesi New Member

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    Well I got the Sram Red group in the mail and am in the process of putting the bike together. I'm still waiting on the bar end shifters so I can't run any cables yet. Just a quick question with regard to cables (if anyone knows); if you are removing cables which are pretty new how do you prevent the cable from fraying so you can reuse them. I've found that when I cut the crimp off of the cables I, invariably, get one stray strand that prevents me from feeding the cable back through the housing. I guess the obvious answer would be if it ain't broke don't fix it. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.
     
  15. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    Frayed ends happen.

    This may-or-may-not work for you ...

    Clean the end of the cable of any grease/oil/lubricant ... try to get the loose end as tightly against the others as possible, then take some "scotch"/cellophane/packing tape (1" or narrower tape is probably easier to work with) and tightly sprial wrap the cable (with a MINIMUM amount of overlap) until you are PAST the end of the cable & end in a (short ... ~1cm to 1/2 inch) POINT (you can create/refine the point with scissors) ... depending on the inner diameter of the cable housing, you may-or-may-not be able to push the cable through te housing.

    Just a suggestion -- EITHER get a better pair of dikes (they are NOT all created equal) OR a better cable cutter OR silver solder the area that you want to snip BEFORE you snip it ... this involves measuring, removing, soldering, snipping, re-installing.

    BTW. I generally leave the cable at least an inch-or-two longer than I would have 30 years ago ... it might not have an ideal cosmetic look, now, but I'm the one who has to work on the bike.
     
  16. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    ... and tightly sprial wrap the last couple of inches toward the end of the cable (etc.) ...
     
  17. rudycyclist

    rudycyclist New Member

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    Couldn't you just turn the shifters to friction if you wanted to use Shimano bar end shifters? They should work just fine if you do that, however personally I hate using the friction setting on my TT bike. I like the indexed setup much more. It allows me to worry about my time rather than my shifting:D
     
  18. Solanog

    Solanog New Member

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    What I do is that instead of cutting it with cutters I use the moto tool with a cutting will, the cut is very clean. After that I sharpen the end and it slides very easily into the sleeve.
     
  19. dgregory57

    dgregory57 New Member

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    I know before I even write this that I am going to sound like a jerk, but I will try hard not to, and hope you know I am trying not to be.

    While I appreciate not over-consuming, I really wonder why someone upgrading to a full SRAM Red group would tinker to try to save the few dollars by not using new cables. If I were to go through the expense of buying SRAM Red, I would most certainly make sure I had the best cables money could buy as well...

    I hope the group is all that you expect it to be.

    :)
     
  20. Peter Verdesi

    Peter Verdesi New Member

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    When you're right you're right. The new Sram Red Group does deserve new cables and new cables it got. I was just wondering how to save the old cables that are pretty new so that I would not have to throw them away. I just got done putting the finishing touches on the bike in the basement. It's pretty sweet. I just had a quick question if anyone cares to answer; I put the new bar end shifters in and adjusted the derailers and everything works fine with the exception of the small cog on the cassette. It seem to be catching on the tooth that shifts to the next cog. Everything is new so I was wondering if the metal will, eventually, wear and the ticking will stop. I've never had Sram components before so I don't know if this is the norm or not.

     
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