SS Question 3 - chainring bolts

Discussion in 'Australia and New Zealand' started by DaveB, Apr 8, 2005.

  1. DaveB

    DaveB Guest

    Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
    bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
    from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
    that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
    any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
    I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

    DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"
     
    Tags:


  2. Brian Watson

    Brian Watson Guest

    DaveB wrote:
    > Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
    > bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
    > from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
    > that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
    > any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
    > I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?


    BMX ones have worked just fine for me 3 times out of 3 so far.

    Brian
     
  3. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    DaveB wrote:
    > Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
    > bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
    > from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
    > that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
    > any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
    > I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?
    >
    > DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"


    I've got normal road ones with a washer on each and that's going fine.

    Chainring bolts are overpriced I reckon and washers are cheap.

    --
    Nick
     
  4. SteveA

    SteveA New Member

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    Track chain ring bolts? Or would they be more expensive than the BMX items?

    SteveA
     
  5. flyingdutch

    flyingdutch New Member

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    simply a length thing (isnt everything? :rolleyes: ) AFAIK. LBS will probably have a jar of spares of washers or bolts. i paid $10 for some BMX ones but that was frivolous
     
  6. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    SteveA wrote:
    > NoZX6R Wrote:
    >
    >>DaveB wrote:
    >>
    >>>Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new

    >>
    >>chainring
    >>
    >>>bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
    >>>from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've

    >>
    >>seen
    >>
    >>>that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is

    >>
    >>there
    >>
    >>>any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the

    >>
    >>LBS
    >>
    >>>I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?
    >>>
    >>>DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

    >>
    >>I've got normal road ones with a washer on each and that's going fine.
    >>
    >>Chainring bolts are overpriced I reckon and washers are cheap.
    >>
    >>--
    >>Nick

    >
    > Track chain ring bolts? Or would they be more expensive than the BMX
    > items?
    >
    > SteveA
    >
    >


    Last time I needed to replace a broken chainring bolt the choice was
    either $9 for one or $25 for 5, so I bought a whole set.

    And since they seem to be pretty much the same (road, mtb, bmx) I'm
    expecting that they're all about that price - I could be wrong.

    This week's killer bike part is Campag Record track nuts at ~$80 a pair.
    $80 for a pair of axle nuts!! wtf??

    --
    Nick
     
  7. SteveA

    SteveA New Member

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    Go on, go for the bling bling Ti chainring bolts. You know you want to.

    SteveA:)
     
  8. Brian Watson

    Brian Watson Guest

    NoZX6R wrote:
    [..snip..]

    > Last time I needed to replace a broken chainring bolt the choice was
    > either $9 for one or $25 for 5, so I bought a whole set.


    My LBS sells them (BMX) for $10 a set of 5.

    > And since they seem to be pretty much the same (road, mtb, bmx) I'm
    > expecting that they're all about that price - I could be wrong.
    >
    > This week's killer bike part is Campag Record track nuts at ~$80 a pair.
    > $80 for a pair of axle nuts!! wtf??


    I would not pay $80 for them, but I would pay a bit (maybe $20) for some
    that worked. I have been through several cheap sets of track nuts.
    After the first use the nuts seem to fuse to the "floating" washer and
    they become normal serrated BMX axle nuts. Having the floating washers
    actually float makes it much easier to get the chain adjusted and
    tighten the nuts without moving the wheel.

    Brian
     
  9. Gags

    Gags Guest

    "DaveB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
    > bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
    > from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
    > that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
    > any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
    > I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?
    >
    > DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"


    You need to come and raid Gag's bike part emporium some time as I am pretty
    sure that I have got a stack of these sitting in the shed (again from the
    bulk ebay lot that I bought). I am hoping to do BR on Sunday so maybe you
    could come over after that......might even drag out the water rocket!!!

    Ride On,

    Gags
     
  10. DaveB

    DaveB Guest

    Gags wrote:
    >
    > You need to come and raid Gag's bike part emporium some time as I am pretty
    > sure that I have got a stack of these sitting in the shed (again from the
    > bulk ebay lot that I bought). I am hoping to do BR on Sunday so maybe you
    > could come over after that......might even drag out the water rocket!!!
    >


    I'll be there Sunday although I thought you were off to Beechworth this
    weekend (or was that last weekend). I'm keen to hit the Gagstronics lab
    seeing light building will be a priority in a couple of weeks.

    DaveB
     
  11. Gags

    Gags Guest

    "DaveB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > Gags wrote:
    > >
    > > You need to come and raid Gag's bike part emporium some time as I am

    pretty
    > > sure that I have got a stack of these sitting in the shed (again from

    the
    > > bulk ebay lot that I bought). I am hoping to do BR on Sunday so maybe

    you
    > > could come over after that......might even drag out the water rocket!!!
    > >

    >
    > I'll be there Sunday although I thought you were off to Beechworth this
    > weekend (or was that last weekend). I'm keen to hit the Gagstronics lab
    > seeing light building will be a priority in a couple of weeks.
    >
    > DaveB


    I am off to Beechworth tomorrow to be food boy for Lindsay. I am also
    taking my two kids to give the wife a day off so it might be a bit of a
    challenge (3hr drive there, 6hr race, 3hr back........).

    Oh well......at least I will get to see heaps of cool bikes. I will try to
    take some pictures of Lindsay's pink Specialized Epic.....it is fully sick.

    Feed On,

    Gags
     
  12. Gemma_k

    Gemma_k Guest

    "DaveB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
    > bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts from
    > the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen that
    > BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there any
    > other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS I'm
    > not going to find there are different width bolts am I?
    >
    > DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

    Dave,
    Oooh! Oooh!
    I have some looorvly proper Shimano Dura-ace ones for sale. $25.
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7136504385&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
    Gemma
     
  13. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    Brian Watson wrote:
    > NoZX6R wrote:
    > [..snip..]
    >
    >> Last time I needed to replace a broken chainring bolt the choice was
    >> either $9 for one or $25 for 5, so I bought a whole set.

    >
    >
    > My LBS sells them (BMX) for $10 a set of 5.
    >
    >> And since they seem to be pretty much the same (road, mtb, bmx) I'm
    >> expecting that they're all about that price - I could be wrong.
    >>
    >> This week's killer bike part is Campag Record track nuts at ~$80 a
    >> pair. $80 for a pair of axle nuts!! wtf??

    >
    >
    > I would not pay $80 for them, but I would pay a bit (maybe $20) for some
    > that worked. I have been through several cheap sets of track nuts.
    > After the first use the nuts seem to fuse to the "floating" washer and
    > they become normal serrated BMX axle nuts. Having the floating washers
    > actually float makes it much easier to get the chain adjusted and
    > tighten the nuts without moving the wheel.
    >
    > Brian


    The Record ones are excellent quality, but $40 is ridiculous for a nut.
    Dura ace track nuts are a lot cheaper and good quality but the two have
    different thread pitches.

    I managed to get some record-compatible ones for $35 but they're not as
    nice as the real thing.

    --
    Nick
     
  14. DaveB

    DaveB Guest

    Chainring bolts fixed courtesy of washers, hacksaw and a file.
    Derailleur setup as chain tensioner. All systems go for a test ride.

    Headed down the slight hill and everything was fine (except the bike was
    returned with Look pedals and I only use eggbeaters which made pedalling
    a bit of a challenge). Turned at the bottom of the hill and started back
    up only to find the chain slipping. I assume the freewheel has a bit
    more wear than a new chain can cope with, or vice versa. So it looks
    like a new freewheel for me on Monday. But I reckon once that goes on
    I'll be cooking with gas.

    DaveB
     
  15. Koon Yong

    Koon Yong New Member

    Joined:
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    What sorta chain slipping? skipping some teeth but not derailing? If so, it could be that your chain is too loose and not wear on the cog. Take out the excess links till your derailer is fully stretched out. What gear combos are you running? The more teeth you have on your rear cog the less likely it'll slip as well.

    Koon
     
  16. DaveB

    DaveB Guest

    Koon Yong wrote:
    >
    > What sorta chain slipping? skipping some teeth but not derailing? If
    > so, it could be that your chain is too loose and not wear on the cog.
    > Take out the excess links till your derailer is fully stretched out.
    > What gear combos are you running? The more teeth you have on your rear
    > cog the less likely it'll slip as well.
    >
    > Koon
    >
    >


    Thanks Koon. Skipping some teeth is the problem and the derailer is not
    fully stretched (wasn't sure what the go was there). So I'll try
    shortening it some more. I'm running ... embarassed cough .. 39/17.

    DaveB
     
  17. Koon Yong

    Koon Yong New Member

    Joined:
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    17 rear is pretty good, of course more teeth the better. I wouldn't go less than 16 is you're using a tensioning device. 39x17 is a pretty decent gear ... nothing to be embarassed about there :)

    Koon
     
  18. Steve

    Steve Guest

  19. DaveB

    DaveB Guest

    DaveB wrote:
    >
    > Thanks Koon. Skipping some teeth is the problem and the derailer is not
    > fully stretched (wasn't sure what the go was there). So I'll try
    > shortening it some more. I'm running ... embarassed cough .. 39/17.
    >
    > DaveB


    Nuts, it turns out it was stretched as much as possible. I thought I had
    enough slack to remove one more link but as it turns out, not quite (and
    the fact that I need a new chain breaker is causing undue stress).
    However I'm not convinced I still haven't missed something. I get the
    feeling the rear sprocket it is going on to isn't close enough to the
    line behind the chainring (is that what they mean by chainline?), with
    the rear sprocket too close to the hub.

    DaveB
     
  20. hippy

    hippy Guest

    DaveB wrote:
    > Nuts, it turns out it was stretched as much as possible. I thought I had
    > enough slack to remove one more link but as it turns out, not quite (and
    > the fact that I need a new chain breaker is causing undue stress).
    > However I'm not convinced I still haven't missed something. I get the
    > feeling the rear sprocket it is going on to isn't close enough to the
    > line behind the chainring (is that what they mean by chainline?), with
    > the rear sprocket too close to the hub.


    Chainline is the imagined line between the front and rear sprockets. The
    rear sprocket should be exactly behind the front sprocket so that the
    chain runs in a straight line. If you do not have this "perfect
    chainline" you will experience chain derailment, possibly like what
    you're experiencing now. Check your chainline - measure it.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline/

    hippy
     
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