Step-through road bike - hard-to-fit situation needs creative ideas!



dizzydiesel

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Jul 7, 2012
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I'm a 5'5" woman currently riding a Trek 7200 hybrid - typical ride length is about 35 miles.

I'm looking to do faster, longer rides - probably 50 - 75 miles. The Trek's great, but it's not built for speed.

And here's my challenge in upgrading to a road bike:

I have hip issues that make it completely impossible to lift either my right or left leg over a typical top bar. In fact, the top bar on many mixte frames is too high.

So if such a thing exists, I think I'm really looking for a true step-through road bike or, Plan B, a mixte frame with a VERY sharply declining top bar might work.

Or maybe there's a different hybrid with stronger road bike characteristics?

Unfortunately, I haven't SEEN any good step-through RBs, and the top bar on most of the mixtes is still pretty darn high.

Any suggestions? Custom frame is probably too expensive to be a realistic option.

All ideas appreciated!
 
dizzydiesel said:
I'm a 5'5" woman currently riding a Trek 7200 hybrid - typical ride length is about 35 miles.   I'm looking to do faster, longer rides - probably 50 - 75 miles. The Trek's great, but it's not built for speed. And here's my challenge in upgrading to a road bike: I have hip issues that make it completely impossible to lift either my right or left leg over a typical top bar. In fact, the top bar on many mixte frames is too high.  So if such a thing exists, I think I'm really looking for a true step-through road bike or, Plan B, a mixte frame with a VERY sharply declining top bar might work.  Or maybe there's a different hybrid with stronger road bike characteristics? Unfortunately, I haven't SEEN any good step-through RBs, and the top bar on most of the mixtes is still pretty darn high. Any suggestions? Custom frame is probably too expensive to be a realistic option. All ideas appreciated!
What would be "too expensive"?
 
FWIW. The (¿)easiest(?) way to go faster is probably to simply use Drop handlebars ...

Almost ANY bike can be converted to use Drop handlebars + Road shifters ...

  • so, IMO, if you can mount-and-dismount from your current bike then all you need to do is to change the handlebars & shifters (i.e., no need to change the frame)

Here are two examples based on MTB frames (i.e., bikes which would normally be outfitted with FLAT bars):





The first bike was fit with 700c wheels + Road fork + TEKTRO long reach (49-59) brake calipers + Campagnolo shifters + Shimano derailleurs. To fit a Road crankset, the particular chain stays required using a BB designed for a Triple (e.g., 118mm Octalink, or equivalent). A 700c rim was laced onto a 135mm MTB rear hub.

The second (incomplete) bike was fit with 26" wheels + Campagnolo shifters + Hollowtech II Road crankset. The stays are narrow enough that any Double Road crank/BB combination can be used. If I can remember where the mini-V-Brake calipers are that I bought for it, that's what will end up on the bike, otherwise a set of cantilever calipers will probably be used.

10-speed Campagnolo shifters will handle almost ANY front derailleur. Additionally, 10-speed Campagnolo shifters can index to 8-/9-/10-speed Shimano rear derailleur/cassette combinations with only a minimal of effort:



The skill level required is low -- 3/10 ...

  • basically, if you can adjust the height on your saddle & change remove/install your wheels and repair a flat + follow the information at www.parktools.com to make adjustments to your brake & derailleur cables then you can probably make the necessary changes as a DIY project ...

Figure your cost will be from $200 (or, less if you are wise shopper), and up ... basically, the Campagnolo shifters & brake cables + Drop handlebars + handlebar tape + 700x28 tires (the current rim width on your bike may limit your tire choice) + tubes ...

  • YOU will probably want to replace the FRONT V-brake with a mini-V-brake ... replacing both would be better

You can buy almost everything you need on eBay.

You may eventually need some bike specific tools, but a 5mm Allen Wrench (with about a 3"-or-longer shaft) can probably be used for most of the work you will be doing.

OTHER parts can be changed as your budget allows.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


What would be "too expensive"?
I was originally thinking in terms of a used bike for about $750.

My riding partner nabbed a 3-year old Specialized Allez Expert w/ full Ultegra for $750. That was a pretty good deal so I wasn't expecting to duplicate it nor did I need that much bike.

But in looking at used bikes, I suddenly realized I couldn't actually get on most of the bikes I was seeing anyway /img/vbsmilies/smilies/eek.gif.

I experimented some earlier today, and I can get on a mixte if I put it flat on the ground, straddle it, and then lift it upright. I'd still need as low a top bar as possible, and it's not ideal, but hey, it is what it is.
 
Originally Posted by alfeng .

FWIW. The (¿)easiest(?) way to go faster is probably to simply use Drop handlebars ...
Your suggestion of keeping the frame I've got is intriguing - I like the idea of swapping out for more "road-appropriate" components if the speed benefit is there.

Question: the weight of the Trek seems pretty substantial - about 31#, I think - and I figured having to haul that around was probably the biggest obstacle to going faster for longer.

Am I focusing on the wrong thing?
 
Originally Posted by dizzydiesel .

Your suggestion of keeping the frame I've got is intriguing - I like the idea of swapping out for more "road-appropriate" components if the speed benefit is there.

Question: the weight of the Trek seems pretty substantial - about 31#, I think - and I figured having to haul that around was probably the biggest obstacle to going faster for longer.

Am I focusing on the wrong thing?
The weight on YOUR Trek is from the extensive use of steel in the comparatively inexpensive components + (especially) the suspension fork ...

FYI. As shown, the MONGOOSE (the 'first' bike pictured) weighs in at under 20 lbs.

  • the combined weight of fork & headset on the Mongoose is probably just over a pound vs. 5+ lbs. for suspension fork on your Trek (possibly, closer to 6+ lbs for the suspension fork + headset since a RIGID steel fork weighs about 2 lbs. without counting the headset's weight)

With different (as in better & more expensive) components, the Mongoose would be closer to 19 lbs. Maybe less.

Basically, if you swapped out the majority of the components on your Trek's frame then you could get its weight down to the 20 lb. range, +/- ...

  • the crankset & BB on your Trek is probably all-steel ... so, that's two-maybe-three pounds more than an intermediate-to-very-good crankset would weigh
  • your tires & tubes probably weigh a pound more than 700x28 tires & tubes will weigh
  • different wheels might be lighter
  • your Trek's derailleurs probably add a 4-to-8 ounces over the weight of the derailleurs on your riding partner's bike
  • your Trek's Cassette is probably 8+ ounces heavier than an eventual replacement Cassette might weigh

  • It all adds up!

Does weight matter?

Weight probably matters mostly if-or-when you are lugging the bike up to a third floor walk-up apartment or hoisting it onto a rack ... but, when you are riding, not so much ... at least, not for the average rider ...

BUT, well adjusted components (particularly, the hubs & BB) do matter ...

If you were motivated, you could bring your Trek's weight to the sub-20 lb. range without breaking your bank ... certainly,I think that you could do it for under $600 ... possibly, half that if you were a wise shopper & DIY.

To reach a sub-19 lb,. range, you'd probably need to spend close to 2x what it would take to get it to sub-20 lbs., or just over 20 lbs.

Regardless, the FIT is the most important aspect of the bike ... so, if your current frame fits, then changing the components seems like a better choice BECAUSE many-if-not-most the components you put on your Trek can be used on another frame in the future.
 
Well...

Your hip issue sounds like it will limit you to a Townie or urban style women's frame type...if a mixte is too tall for you to get your leg over.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/collections/womens/town/recreation/allant/ $550 or so...lose the fenders/rack...add seat/bars and upgrade the wheels?

None of them are 'built for speed' AFAIK. However, it is possible to build up a townie style frame with plenty of gearing to ride distances on and to swap in a pair of 'go faster' wheels/tires.

No women's townie frame is going to offer the stiffness and handling of a racing or sport touring frame, but you will gain the ease of mounting and dismounting it sounds like you need. If that increases your enjoyment of riding, you might want to explore your options at your local bike shops.

Low miles Townies are often found for cheap on Craig's List, but upgrading one with the gearing and wheels and saddle, handlebars, etc. will up the price.
 

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