Strength of frame without chainstay bridge



i think it does. i remember reading on the dedacciai web site a
builders recommendation to use a chain stay bridge to mitigate fatigue.
makes sense when you think about it - this section is not a perfect
triangle - its apex terminates at the most highly stressed and flexed
part of the frame.

Peter Cole wrote:
> "Russell Seaton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>How does not having a chainstay bridge affect the frame?

>
>
> It doesn't.
>
>
 
[email protected] wrote:
> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]unged (Phil
> Brown) wrote:
>
>
>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>>
>>>the past.

>>
>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.
>>Phil brown

>
>
> Dear Phil,
>
> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed that
> the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but you're
> saying otherwise.
>
> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner at
> each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness, while
> the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>
> Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier assembly?
> Strength?
>
> Carl Fogel


tapered for weight. the dropout end doesn't get twisted as much as the
bb end, so it doesn't need to be as strong, ergo tapered tube is the way
to go. just like the shaft of a golf club. the handle end has to
withstand the leverage of the user accelerating the club and is
therefore wider - the head end just has to be strong enough to stop the
end flying off so is narrower [and thinner wall too].

so, high end chain stays are tapered /and/ butted to be thinner in the
middle. scroll through this page for examples.
http://dedacciai.com/prodotti/sat.htm

as an aside, it fascinates me that certain "high end" [i.e. _expensive_]
titanium frame builders haven't figured out the value of tapered tubes
yet. i know that tapered tubes are hard to make, especially having the
thin wall at the narrow end, but for the price on some of these frames,
to /not/ have tapered tubes is pretty outrageous.
 
personally, i'd want a chain stay bridge. it's specifically recommended
by some tube manufacturers to mitigate fatigue, and i've seen a number
of weld failures at the bb when it's not present. [chain stays can fail
at the bridge too btw, but it's less common from what i've seen.]

Russell Seaton wrote:
> How does not having a chainstay bridge affect the frame? I have a
> "loaded" touring frame without a chainstay bridge. The frame is
> welded Kinesis 7005 Superlight butted aluminum tubing, according to
> the sticker. Chainstays are 17" long. Cantilever brakes will be
> used. 130mm rear OLD spacing.
>
> I know mounting a rear fender will require some ingenuity. But with
> Blackburn P-clips at the rear dropouts and the seatstay bridge, I
> figure the fender should be fairly well secured. Wire between the
> fender and chainstays behind the bottom bracket will probably be
> enough to hold the fender in place.
 
Russell Seaton wrote:

> How does not having a chainstay bridge affect the frame? I have a
> "loaded" touring frame without a chainstay bridge. The frame is
> welded Kinesis 7005 Superlight butted aluminum tubing, according to
> the sticker. Chainstays are 17" long. Cantilever brakes will be
> used. 130mm rear OLD spacing.
>
> I know mounting a rear fender will require some ingenuity.

-snip-

That, and one's wheel would stick with normal ends during
removal. Not the problem with verticals.

There are some classic designs which are prone to chainstay
cracks at the cast bridge. . .
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 04:39:04 GMT, jim beam <[email protected]>
wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]unged (Phil
>> Brown) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>>>
>>>>the past.
>>>
>>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.
>>>Phil brown

>>
>>
>> Dear Phil,
>>
>> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed that
>> the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but you're
>> saying otherwise.
>>
>> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner at
>> each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness, while
>> the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>>
>> Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier assembly?
>> Strength?
>>
>> Carl Fogel

>
>tapered for weight. the dropout end doesn't get twisted as much as the
>bb end, so it doesn't need to be as strong, ergo tapered tube is the way
>to go. just like the shaft of a golf club. the handle end has to
>withstand the leverage of the user accelerating the club and is
>therefore wider - the head end just has to be strong enough to stop the
>end flying off so is narrower [and thinner wall too].
>
>so, high end chain stays are tapered /and/ butted to be thinner in the
>middle. scroll through this page for examples.
>http://dedacciai.com/prodotti/sat.htm
>
>as an aside, it fascinates me that certain "high end" [i.e. _expensive_]
>titanium frame builders haven't figured out the value of tapered tubes
>yet. i know that tapered tubes are hard to make, especially having the
>thin wall at the narrow end, but for the price on some of these frames,
>to /not/ have tapered tubes is pretty outrageous.


Dear Jim,

I think that I follow your nice golf-club analogy.

Now I have to ask how much--how much weight is actually
saved by tapering the various frame tubes? Is this saving a
few grams, a few ounces, or even a pound?

Carl Fogel
 
> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]unged (Phil
> Brown) wrote:
>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>>the past.

>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.


[email protected] wrote:
> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed that
> the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but you're
> saying otherwise.
>
> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner at
> each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness, while
> the diameter of the whole tube narrows?

-snip-

Cut a cheap fork or seat/chain stay from a bike such as you
recently bought for under $100.
You'll find the shape doesn't lend itself to a cheap
solution, the resulting piece being fairly thin at the fork
crown ( or at the BB in the case of a chainstay) yet
ridiculously thick at the small diameter end. One might
easily envision a pipe being worked to that shape in one pass.

A premium quality material such as Reynolds tube yeilds a
product that's of a uniform wall thickness over a wide range
of outer diameters. Reynolds calls that feature "taper gauge
tubing".

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 01:05:18 -0500, A Muzi
<[email protected]> wrote:

>> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]unged (Phil
>> Brown) wrote:
>>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>>>the past.
>>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.

>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed that
>> the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but you're
>> saying otherwise.
>>
>> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner at
>> each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness, while
>> the diameter of the whole tube narrows?

>-snip-
>
>Cut a cheap fork or seat/chain stay from a bike such as you
>recently bought for under $100.
>You'll find the shape doesn't lend itself to a cheap
>solution, the resulting piece being fairly thin at the fork
>crown ( or at the BB in the case of a chainstay) yet
>ridiculously thick at the small diameter end. One might
>easily envision a pipe being worked to that shape in one pass.
>
>A premium quality material such as Reynolds tube yeilds a
>product that's of a uniform wall thickness over a wide range
>of outer diameters. Reynolds calls that feature "taper gauge
>tubing".


Dear Andrew,

Sorry, but I have to fill in the blanks that are obvious to
frame-friendly folks like you.

I think that you're saying that a cheap bicycle's
chain-stays will taper visibly, but that the too-thin walls
at the wide-diameter bottom-bracket-end turn into too-thick
walls at the narrow-diameter axle-end.

I'm guessing that this is due to a crude squeezing process
("one-pass") and that the higher-quality Reynolds tubing
tapers to a smaller outside diameter at the axle-end while
its wall stays the same thickness throughout.

Assuming that I'm following you, Is the premium Reynolds
tubing premium because it's stronger, or because it's
lighter, or what?

Carl Fogel
 
On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 20:21:52 -0600, [email protected] wrote:

[immense snip]

>Dear Kinky,
>
>Okay, now I'm thinking of the bottom-bracket, chain-stays,
>and axle as a long, two-rung ladder lying flat on the floor,
>with a narrow rung at one end and a wide rung at the bottom.
>
>If the narrow end of the ladder is nailed to the floor,
>pushing sideways on the ladder's wide end will deform the
>whole rickety trapezoidal arrangement.
>
>But a third rung near the narrow end will stiffen the
>ladder.
>
>Is this roughly the idea?
>
>Carl Fogel



Yep!
Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 02:05:20 GMT, [email protected]
wrote:

>Kinky Cowboy snipes anonymously:
>
>>>> How does not having a chainstay bridge affect the frame? I have a
>>>> "loaded" touring frame without a chainstay bridge.

>
>>> Depending on frame size and geometry, the bridge doesn't even serve
>>> that purpose. It is never structurally necessary, the rear triangle
>>> actually being a tetrahedron, the stiffest solid body available.

>
>> We've been here before. The rear triangle isn't a tetrahedron,
>> because if it was the chainstays would meet in the centre of the BB
>> shell.

>
>The virtual intersection of these tubes is guaranteed by the massive
>BB shell reinforced by BB cups that make this an equivalent of a
>truncated tetrahedron. Even a well meaning constructor of such a
>figure using bicycle tubes would not extent the tubes to a sharp point
>intersection as a mathematical line model would. Stop splitting
>hairs.


But the pin jointed model, while manifestly a gross
oversimplification, does serve to illustrate the likely effect of
adding the extra element, by making it easy to visualise which angles
or lengths need to change to accomodate the deflection

>> The BB shell, chainstays and rear axle form a trapezium, which is
>> deformed by axial loads from the rear wheel.

>
>So? Even a perfect tetrahedron would be deformed. This is a case of
>"lies of the second kind" to support a semantic rather than a
>mechanical problem. Metals are, after all, an elastic medium. It is
>not the truncated tetrahedron that is deforming as you imply but don't
>say, but rather the elements of the tetrahedron.


There is a deformation of the trapezium, in the sense of the angles
changing, as well as deformation of the elements by bending and/or
stretching

>> Bracing this trapezium at some point distant from, but parallel to,
>> the BB axis will cause this deforming tendency to be resisted by a
>> bending moment in the chainstays, whereas without the bridge the
>> entire load must be resisted by the BB/Chainstay junction attempting
>> to change it's angle. For this reason, bridgeless designs usually
>> rely on reinforcement of this junction, such as gussets, extended BB
>> shell or, in the case of lugged steel designs, longer and heavier
>> points on the BB shell. Admittedly, the seatstays (also braced, by
>> the brake bridge) also resist this load, but anybody who thinks the
>> chainstay bridge serves no structural function should have a look at
>> the swingarm of the nearest high performance motorcycle.

>
>You might as well take the lugs of a Rene Herse frame as proof of
>stresses at certain junctions when in fact much of this is artistic
>license or in response to an unrelated frame failure. Similarly, you
>could cite tying and soldering spokes at their crossings.


But I didn't; I carefully cited the similar trapezoidal structure of
the motorcycle swingarm (technically, a swinging fork), which has been
subject to a great deal of investigation as to the best method of
bracing against the large axial and torsional loads fed into it by the
rear wheel, and which also has it's direct bicycle equivalent on many
suspended frame designs.

>> It is possible to properly design a bicycle without a chainstay
>> bridge, and I do not presume to know which approach is ultimately
>> "better", by whatever test you happen to mean by better; this will
>> vary according to geometry and material choice, but in general if a
>> designer has chosen to use a bridge, it's likely to be there for
>> structural reasons; it certainly isn't required for tyre restraint
>> or mudguard mounting on my track or dirt-jump bikes, both of which
>> enjoy the structural benefit of substantial chainstay bridges (and,
>> for that matter, "brake" bridges, even though one is braked by the
>> sprocket and the other by a disc)

>
>Well that's a great disclaimer after all that dogmatic explanation of
>the "rear triangle".
>
>Jobst Brandt
>[email protected]


Why thank you! I suspect you were indulging in the lowest form of wit,
but, ignoring your sarcasm, all bicycle design (as in any other branch
of engineering) is a series of compromises, and there are entirely
legitimate reasons why a bridgeless design might be the best
compromise for one application while a bidged design is equally
appropriate for another. While I'm being pragmatic (a quality you
might like to acquire) I am equally sure that a great many features of
bicycle design are continued because they've always been done that
way, and that as a result there are probably some redundant chainstay
bridges out there.


Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary
 
On 2004-06-27, Phil Brown <[email protected]> wrote:

>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>the past.


> The walls are tapered on good quality stays.


When did they start doing that? In the past, Reynolds made "taper gauge"
fork blades designed so that when the blades were tapered, you'd end up
with uniform gauge throughout the length of the blade. But the chain
stays were not done in this manner -- after tapering, the wall thickness
at the small end of the stay was substatially thicker than at the large
end. The Ishiwata, Tange, or Columbus tubes sets that I've built frames
from were all the same way with the chain stays.

But I haven't bought any tube sets for some time now, so perhaps things
have changed in the interim.

--

-John ([email protected])
 
On 2004-06-27, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]unged (Phil
> Brown) wrote:
>>
>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.


> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed that
> the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but you're
> saying otherwise.
>
> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner at
> each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness, while
> the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>
> Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier assembly?
> Strength?


The main tubes on good quality tube sets are butted at the ends, so that
the ends of the tubes have thicker walls than the middle of the tube.
0.9mm/0.6mm/0.9mm is a common pattern for steel road bike frame tubes.
This provides more material at the ends of the tubes where the
brazing/welding is done.

Seat and chain stays are generally produced from straight-gauge (unbutted)
tubing; the tapering process where the outside diameter is reduced on one
end results in greater wall thickness at the small O.D. end.

Fork blades are typically produced from chainstays. A 22mm straight-gauge
tube is tapered to produce a chainstay, then the large O.D. end is
ovalized and the blade raked to produce a fork blade. Sometimes the
blades are not raked until after they have been built into the fork; when
you buy a tube set you can specify whether you want raked or unraked
blades.

Reynolds felt that they could create a better fork blade by using a "taper
gauge" tube to create the fork blade. Instead of using an unbutted 22mm
tube to produce the blade, Reynolds uses a 22mm tube with a gradual change
in wall thickness from one end to the other. The thin end of the tube is
tapered to a smaller O.D. with a corresponding increase in wall thickness
as a result of the tapering process. But the tapering wall thickness
means that the resulting blade will have uniform wall thickness throughout
its length.

Columbus and other tubing manufacturers have also put ribs in various
tubes to provide extra strength in high-stress areas. The steer
tubes on the original Columbus SL/SP and Tange tube sets have helical ribs
inside the butt (fork crown) end. Ishiwata used straight ribs on their
steer tubes. Newer Columbus tubes (SLX) also have helical ribs on the
insides of the main tubes and chainstays where they join the bottom
bracket.

--

-John ([email protected])
 
[email protected] wrote:
-snip-
> I think that you're saying that a cheap bicycle's
> chain-stays will taper visibly, but that the too-thin walls
> at the wide-diameter bottom-bracket-end turn into too-thick
> walls at the narrow-diameter axle-end.
>
> I'm guessing that this is due to a crude squeezing process
> ("one-pass") and that the higher-quality Reynolds tubing
> tapers to a smaller outside diameter at the axle-end while
> its wall stays the same thickness throughout.
>
> Assuming that I'm following you, Is the premium Reynolds
> tubing premium because it's stronger, or because it's
> lighter, or what?



Reynolds or other premium tube is :
a possibly stronger or at least a usually more suitable alloy
it's cleaner - less impurities in the steel.
More uniform both materially and mechanically
Reynolds butted main tubes are thicker at the joints, yet
thinner elsewhere.

The for blade's shape - a constant wall thickness - is
costly to make but results in about the right a mount of
flex in a fork blade without being prone to cracks at the
fork crown joint.

I knew I had a pair of these someplace.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FORKSEC.JPG
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 14:00:29 -0500, A Muzi
<[email protected]> wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>-snip-
> > I think that you're saying that a cheap bicycle's
> > chain-stays will taper visibly, but that the too-thin walls
> > at the wide-diameter bottom-bracket-end turn into too-thick
> > walls at the narrow-diameter axle-end.
> >
> > I'm guessing that this is due to a crude squeezing process
> > ("one-pass") and that the higher-quality Reynolds tubing
> > tapers to a smaller outside diameter at the axle-end while
> > its wall stays the same thickness throughout.
> >
> > Assuming that I'm following you, Is the premium Reynolds
> > tubing premium because it's stronger, or because it's
> > lighter, or what?

>
>
>Reynolds or other premium tube is :
>a possibly stronger or at least a usually more suitable alloy
>it's cleaner - less impurities in the steel.
>More uniform both materially and mechanically
>Reynolds butted main tubes are thicker at the joints, yet
>thinner elsewhere.
>
>The for blade's shape - a constant wall thickness - is
>costly to make but results in about the right a mount of
>flex in a fork blade without being prone to cracks at the
>fork crown joint.
>
>I knew I had a pair of these someplace.
>http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FORKSEC.JPG


Dear Andrew,

Nice pictures!

Both forks seem to be the same thickness at the crown-end,
but the upper fork's tubing is clearly thicker-walled than
the Reynolds fork down near the axle-end.

Thanks,

Carl Fogel
 
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 04:39:04 GMT, jim beam <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]unged (Phil
>>>Brown) wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>>>>
>>>>>the past.
>>>>
>>>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.
>>>>Phil brown
>>>
>>>
>>>Dear Phil,
>>>
>>>I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed that
>>>the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but you're
>>>saying otherwise.
>>>
>>>Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner at
>>>each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness, while
>>>the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>>>
>>>Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier assembly?
>>>Strength?
>>>
>>>Carl Fogel

>>
>>tapered for weight. the dropout end doesn't get twisted as much as the
>>bb end, so it doesn't need to be as strong, ergo tapered tube is the way
>>to go. just like the shaft of a golf club. the handle end has to
>>withstand the leverage of the user accelerating the club and is
>>therefore wider - the head end just has to be strong enough to stop the
>>end flying off so is narrower [and thinner wall too].
>>
>>so, high end chain stays are tapered /and/ butted to be thinner in the
>>middle. scroll through this page for examples.
>>http://dedacciai.com/prodotti/sat.htm
>>
>>as an aside, it fascinates me that certain "high end" [i.e. _expensive_]
>>titanium frame builders haven't figured out the value of tapered tubes
>>yet. i know that tapered tubes are hard to make, especially having the
>>thin wall at the narrow end, but for the price on some of these frames,
>>to /not/ have tapered tubes is pretty outrageous.

>
>
> Dear Jim,
>
> I think that I follow your nice golf-club analogy.
>
> Now I have to ask how much--how much weight is actually
> saved by tapering the various frame tubes? Is this saving a
> few grams, a few ounces, or even a pound?
>
> Carl Fogel


i don't expect it's a lot - if you want specifics, you'd have to work
that out on an individual component basis. you could try a math
approximation for a conic but it's hard to make account for non-uniform
wall thickness.

my previous comment reflects a purist viewpoint. sure, a straight tube
may not make a lot of difference in weight, but the priciple is to
maximize material where it's needed, the bb, and minimize it where it's
not, the dropout. ignoring that in a $2k, $3k or $4k frame either
demonstrates a frightening degree of ignorance or astonishing arrogance.
 
>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on the Reynolds
>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've worked with in
>>>the past.


> On 2004-06-27, Phil Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.


John Thompson wrote:
> When did they start doing that? In the past, Reynolds made "taper gauge"
> fork blades designed so that when the blades were tapered, you'd end up
> with uniform gauge throughout the length of the blade. But the chain
> stays were not done in this manner -- after tapering, the wall thickness
> at the small end of the stay was substatially thicker than at the large
> end. The Ishiwata, Tange, or Columbus tubes sets that I've built frames
> from were all the same way with the chain stays.
> But I haven't bought any tube sets for some time now, so perhaps things
> have changed in the interim.


The printed specs here from Reynolds, Columbus, Tange and
Ishiwata all say chainstays are delivered with constant wall
thickness end to end. But a quick measurement affirms your
observation:

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/C_STAYS.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
> > I know mounting a rear fender will require some ingenuity. But with
> > Blackburn P-clips at the rear dropouts and the seatstay bridge, I
> > figure the fender should be fairly well secured. Wire between the
> > fender and chainstays behind the bottom bracket will probably be
> > enough to hold the fender in place.

>
> I am not visualizing what you mean.
>
> Jobst Brandt
> [email protected]


The frame has vertical dropouts. So the wheel should not get stuck
between the chainstays because it will not be pushed forward. The
frame has the seatstay bridge for mounting the top of the fender in
the normal manner. And Blackburn P-clips will hold the back of the
fender near the rear dropouts. Near the bottom bracket shell the
fender has a tab/hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge. I will use
copper electrical wire around the chainstays and into the tab/hole on
the fender to secure the fender behind the bottom bracket shell.
 
Russell Seaton writes:

>>> I know mounting a rear fender will require some ingenuity. But
>>> with Blackburn P-clips at the rear dropouts and the seatstay
>>> bridge, I figure the fender should be fairly well secured. Wire
>>> between the fender and chainstays behind the bottom bracket will
>>> probably be enough to hold the fender in place.


>> I am not visualizing what you mean.


> The frame has vertical dropouts. So the wheel should not get stuck
> between the chainstays because it will not be pushed forward. The
> frame has the seatstay bridge for mounting the top of the fender in
> the normal manner. And Blackburn P-clips will hold the back of the
> fender near the rear dropouts. Near the bottom bracket shell the
> fender has a tab/hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge. I will use
> copper electrical wire around the chainstays and into the tab/hole
> on the fender to secure the fender behind the bottom bracket shell.


I mentioned the wheel getting stuck because that was one of the
benefits of older bicycles that used horizontal dropouts. Because the
tube bridge was usually there historically, it has remained on
bicycles with long chainstays, probably for belief in the arguments
presented here on their effectiveness. A thin tube in that direction
is not effective in shear or bending considering its diameter in
comparison to the tubes it is supposed to assist in such forces.
These fender mounts have been made of split tubes, ones with an open
seam down one side.

I'm sure there is a way of attaching a fender without it but not as
easily.

Jobst Brandt
[email protected]
 
Russell Seaton <[email protected]> wrote:

> The frame has vertical dropouts. So the wheel should not get stuck
> between the chainstays because it will not be pushed forward. The
> frame has the seatstay bridge for mounting the top of the fender in
> the normal manner. And Blackburn P-clips will hold the back of the
> fender near the rear dropouts. Near the bottom bracket shell the
> fender has a tab/hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge. I will use
> copper electrical wire around the chainstays and into the tab/hole on
> the fender to secure the fender behind the bottom bracket shell.


Zipties around the chainstays can also work:

http://www.mindspring.com/~d.g1/ziptie.htm

The top left illustration shows a fender with extra holes
drilled in the sides near the chainstays, that can make
life easier than trying to use the original hole in the
center.
 

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