Strength of frame without chainstay bridge



Russell Seaton wrote:

> How does not having a chainstay bridge affect the frame? I
> have a "loaded" touring frame without a chainstay bridge.
> The frame is welded Kinesis 7005 Superlight butted
> aluminum tubing, according to the sticker. Chainstays are
> 17" long. Cantilever brakes will be used. 130mm rear OLD
> spacing.
>
> I know mounting a rear fender will require some ingenuity.
-snip-

That, and one's wheel would stick with normal ends during
removal. Not the problem with verticals.

There are some classic designs which are prone to chainstay
cracks at the cast bridge. . .
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected] (Phil
> Brown) wrote:
>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on
>>>the Reynolds
>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've
>>> worked with in the past.
>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.

[email protected] wrote:
> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed
> that the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but
> you're saying otherwise.
>
> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner
> at each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness,
> while the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
-snip-

Cut a cheap fork or seat/chain stay from a bike such as you
recently bought for under $100. You'll find the shape
doesn't lend itself to a cheap solution, the resulting piece
being fairly thin at the fork crown ( or at the BB in the
case of a chainstay) yet ridiculously thick at the small
diameter end. One might easily envision a pipe being worked
to that shape in one pass.

A premium quality material such as Reynolds tube yeilds a
product that's of a uniform wall thickness over a wide
range of outer diameters. Reynolds calls that feature
"taper gauge tubing".

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 04:39:04 GMT, jim beam <[email protected]>
wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]
>> (Phil Brown) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on
>>>>the Reynolds
>>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets
>>>> I've worked with in
>>>>
>>>>the past.
>>>
>>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays. Phil brown
>>
>>
>> Dear Phil,
>>
>> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed
>> that the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but
>> you're saying otherwise.
>>
>> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner
>> at each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness,
>> while the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>>
>> Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier
>> assembly? Strength?
>>
>> Carl Fogel
>
>tapered for weight. the dropout end doesn't get twisted as
>much as the bb end, so it doesn't need to be as strong,
>ergo tapered tube is the way to go. just like the shaft of
>a golf club. the handle end has to withstand the leverage
>of the user accelerating the club and is therefore wider -
>the head end just has to be strong enough to stop the end
>flying off so is narrower [and thinner wall too].
>
>so, high end chain stays are tapered /and/ butted to be
>thinner in the
>middle. scroll through this page for examples.
> http://dedacciai.com/prodotti/sat.htm
>
>as an aside, it fascinates me that certain "high end" [i.e.
>_expensive_] titanium frame builders haven't figured out
>the value of tapered tubes yet. i know that tapered tubes
>are hard to make, especially having the thin wall at the
>narrow end, but for the price on some of these frames, to
>/not/ have tapered tubes is pretty outrageous.

Dear Jim,

I think that I follow your nice golf-club analogy.

Now I have to ask how much--how much weight is actually
saved by tapering the various frame tubes? Is this saving a
few grams, a few ounces, or even a pound?

Carl Fogel
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 01:05:18 -0500, A Muzi
<[email protected]> wrote:

>> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]
>> (Phil Brown) wrote:
>>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on
>>>>the Reynolds
>>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets
>>>> I've worked with in the past.
>>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed
>> that the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but
>> you're saying otherwise.
>>
>> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner
>> at each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness,
>> while the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>-snip-
>
>Cut a cheap fork or seat/chain stay from a bike such as you
>recently bought for under $100. You'll find the shape
>doesn't lend itself to a cheap solution, the resulting
>piece being fairly thin at the fork crown ( or at the BB in
>the case of a chainstay) yet ridiculously thick at the
>small diameter end. One might easily envision a pipe being
>worked to that shape in one pass.
>
>A premium quality material such as Reynolds tube yeilds a
>product that's of a uniform wall thickness over a wide
>range of outer diameters. Reynolds calls that feature
>"taper gauge tubing".

Dear Andrew,

Sorry, but I have to fill in the blanks that are obvious to
frame-friendly folks like you.

I think that you're saying that a cheap bicycle's chain-
stays will taper visibly, but that the too-thin walls at the
wide-diameter bottom-bracket-end turn into too-thick walls
at the narrow-diameter axle-end.

I'm guessing that this is due to a crude squeezing process
("one-pass") and that the higher-quality Reynolds tubing
tapers to a smaller outside diameter at the axle-end while
its wall stays the same thickness throughout.

Assuming that I'm following you, Is the premium Reynolds
tubing premium because it's stronger, or because it's
lighter, or what?

Carl Fogel
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 02:05:20 GMT, [email protected]
wrote:

>Kinky Cowboy snipes anonymously:
>
>>>> How does not having a chainstay bridge affect the
>>>> frame? I have a "loaded" touring frame without a
>>>> chainstay bridge.
>
>>> Depending on frame size and geometry, the bridge doesn't
>>> even serve that purpose. It is never structurally
>>> necessary, the rear triangle actually being a
>>> tetrahedron, the stiffest solid body available.
>
>> We've been here before. The rear triangle isn't a
>> tetrahedron, because if it was the chainstays would meet
>> in the centre of the BB shell.
>
>The virtual intersection of these tubes is guaranteed by
>the massive BB shell reinforced by BB cups that make this
>an equivalent of a truncated tetrahedron. Even a well
>meaning constructor of such a figure using bicycle tubes
>would not extent the tubes to a sharp point intersection as
>a mathematical line model would. Stop splitting hairs.

But the pin jointed model, while manifestly a gross
oversimplification, does serve to illustrate the likely
effect of adding the extra element, by making it easy to
visualise which angles or lengths need to change to
accomodate the deflection

>> The BB shell, chainstays and rear axle form a trapezium,
>> which is deformed by axial loads from the rear wheel.
>
>So? Even a perfect tetrahedron would be deformed. This is a
>case of "lies of the second kind" to support a semantic
>rather than a mechanical problem. Metals are, after all, an
>elastic medium. It is not the truncated tetrahedron that is
>deforming as you imply but don't say, but rather the
>elements of the tetrahedron.

There is a deformation of the trapezium, in the sense of the
angles changing, as well as deformation of the elements by
bending and/or stretching

>> Bracing this trapezium at some point distant from, but
>> parallel to, the BB axis will cause this deforming
>> tendency to be resisted by a bending moment in the
>> chainstays, whereas without the bridge the entire load
>> must be resisted by the BB/Chainstay junction attempting
>> to change it's angle. For this reason, bridgeless designs
>> usually rely on reinforcement of this junction, such as
>> gussets, extended BB shell or, in the case of lugged
>> steel designs, longer and heavier points on the BB shell.
>> Admittedly, the seatstays (also braced, by the brake
>> bridge) also resist this load, but anybody who thinks the
>> chainstay bridge serves no structural function should
>> have a look at the swingarm of the nearest high
>> performance motorcycle.
>
>You might as well take the lugs of a Rene Herse frame as
>proof of stresses at certain junctions when in fact much of
>this is artistic license or in response to an unrelated
>frame failure. Similarly, you could cite tying and
>soldering spokes at their crossings.

But I didn't; I carefully cited the similar trapezoidal
structure of the motorcycle swingarm (technically, a
swinging fork), which has been subject to a great deal of
investigation as to the best method of bracing against the
large axial and torsional loads fed into it by the rear
wheel, and which also has it's direct bicycle equivalent on
many suspended frame designs.

>> It is possible to properly design a bicycle without a
>> chainstay bridge, and I do not presume to know which
>> approach is ultimately "better", by whatever test you
>> happen to mean by better; this will vary according to
>> geometry and material choice, but in general if a
>> designer has chosen to use a bridge, it's likely to be
>> there for structural reasons; it certainly isn't required
>> for tyre restraint or mudguard mounting on my track or
>> dirt-jump bikes, both of which enjoy the structural
>> benefit of substantial chainstay bridges (and, for that
>> matter, "brake" bridges, even though one is braked by the
>> sprocket and the other by a disc)
>
>Well that's a great disclaimer after all that dogmatic
>explanation of the "rear triangle".
>
>Jobst Brandt [email protected]

Why thank you! I suspect you were indulging in the lowest
form of wit, but, ignoring your sarcasm, all bicycle design
(as in any other branch of engineering) is a series of
compromises, and there are entirely legitimate reasons why a
bridgeless design might be the best compromise for one
application while a bidged design is equally appropriate for
another. While I'm being pragmatic (a quality you might like
to acquire) I am equally sure that a great many features of
bicycle design are continued because they've always been
done that way, and that as a result there are probably some
redundant chainstay bridges out there.

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included May contain traces of nuts Your
milage may vary
 
On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 20:21:52 -0600, [email protected] wrote:

[immense snip]

>Dear Kinky,
>
>Okay, now I'm thinking of the bottom-bracket, chain-stays,
>and axle as a long, two-rung ladder lying flat on the
>floor, with a narrow rung at one end and a wide rung at
>the bottom.
>
>If the narrow end of the ladder is nailed to the floor,
>pushing sideways on the ladder's wide end will deform the
>whole rickety trapezoidal arrangement.
>
>But a third rung near the narrow end will stiffen the
>ladder.
>
>Is this roughly the idea?
>
>Carl Fogel

Yep! Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included May contain traces of nuts Your
milage may vary
 
On 2004-06-27, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]
> (Phil Brown) wrote:
>>
>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.

> I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed
> that the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but
> you're saying otherwise.
>
> Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner
> at each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness,
> while the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>
> Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier
> assembly? Strength?

The main tubes on good quality tube sets are butted at the
ends, so that the ends of the tubes have thicker walls than
the middle of the tube. .9mm/0.6mm/0.9mm is a common pattern
for steel road bike frame tubes. This provides more material
at the ends of the tubes where the brazing/welding is done.

Seat and chain stays are generally produced from straight-
gauge (unbutted) tubing; the tapering process where the
outside diameter is reduced on one end results in greater
wall thickness at the small O.D. end.

Fork blades are typically produced from chainstays. A 22mm
straight-gauge tube is tapered to produce a chainstay, then
the large O.D. end is ovalized and the blade raked to
produce a fork blade. Sometimes the blades are not raked
until after they have been built into the fork; when you
buy a tube set you can specify whether you want raked or
unraked blades.

Reynolds felt that they could create a better fork blade by
using a "taper gauge" tube to create the fork blade. Instead
of using an unbutted 22mm tube to produce the blade,
Reynolds uses a 22mm tube with a gradual change in wall
thickness from one end to the other. The thin end of the
tube is tapered to a smaller O.D. with a corresponding
increase in wall thickness as a result of the tapering
process. But the tapering wall thickness means that the
resulting blade will have uniform wall thickness throughout
its length.

Columbus and other tubing manufacturers have also put ribs
in various tubes to provide extra strength in high-stress
areas. The steer tubes on the original Columbus SL/SP and
Tange tube sets have helical ribs inside the butt (fork
crown) end. Ishiwata used straight ribs on their steer
tubes. Newer Columbus tubes (SLX) also have helical ribs on
the insides of the main tubes and chainstays where they join
the bottom bracket.

--

-John ([email protected])
 
[email protected] wrote: -snip-
> I think that you're saying that a cheap bicycle's chain-
> stays will taper visibly, but that the too-thin walls at
> the wide-diameter bottom-bracket-end turn into too-thick
> walls at the narrow-diameter axle-end.
>
> I'm guessing that this is due to a crude squeezing
> process ("one-pass") and that the higher-quality Reynolds
> tubing tapers to a smaller outside diameter at the axle-
> end while its wall stays the same thickness throughout.
>
> Assuming that I'm following you, Is the premium Reynolds
> tubing premium because it's stronger, or because it's
> lighter, or what?

Reynolds or other premium tube is : a possibly stronger or
at least a usually more suitable alloy it's cleaner - less
impurities in the steel. More uniform both materially and
mechanically Reynolds butted main tubes are thicker at the
joints, yet thinner elsewhere.

The for blade's shape - a constant wall thickness - is
costly to make but results in about the right a mount of
flex in a fork blade without being prone to cracks at the
fork crown joint.

I knew I had a pair of these someplace.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FORKSEC.JPG
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 14:00:29 -0500, A Muzi
<[email protected]> wrote:

>[email protected] wrote: -snip-
> > I think that you're saying that a cheap bicycle's chain-
> > stays will taper visibly, but that the too-thin walls at
> > the wide-diameter bottom-bracket-end turn into too-thick
> > walls at the narrow-diameter axle-end.
> >
> > I'm guessing that this is due to a crude squeezing
> > process ("one-pass") and that the higher-quality
> > Reynolds tubing tapers to a smaller outside diameter at
> > the axle-end while its wall stays the same thickness
> > throughout.
> >
> > Assuming that I'm following you, Is the premium Reynolds
> > tubing premium because it's stronger, or because it's
> > lighter, or what?
>
>
>Reynolds or other premium tube is : a possibly stronger or
>at least a usually more suitable alloy it's cleaner - less
>impurities in the steel. More uniform both materially and
>mechanically Reynolds butted main tubes are thicker at the
>joints, yet thinner elsewhere.
>
>The for blade's shape - a constant wall thickness - is
>costly to make but results in about the right a mount of
>flex in a fork blade without being prone to cracks at the
>fork crown joint.
>
>I knew I had a pair of these someplace.
>http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FORKSEC.JPG

Dear Andrew,

Nice pictures!

Both forks seem to be the same thickness at the crown-end,
but the upper fork's tubing is clearly thicker-walled than
the Reynolds fork down near the axle-end.

Thanks,

Carl Fogel
 
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 04:39:04 GMT, jim beam
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>On 27 Jun 2004 01:14:11 GMT, [email protected]
>>>(Phil Brown) wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not
>>>>>on the Reynolds
>>>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets
>>>>> I've worked with in
>>>>>
>>>>>the past.
>>>>
>>>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays. Phil brown
>>>
>>>
>>>Dear Phil,
>>>
>>>I'm fascinated, but want more details. I always assumed
>>>that the tubing was just straight, uniform pipe, but
>>>you're saying otherwise.
>>>
>>>Is the pipe tapered in terms of its wall becoming thinner
>>>at each end, or does the wall stay the same thickness,
>>>while the diameter of the whole tube narrows?
>>>
>>>Whatever the answer is, why does it taper? Easier
>>>assembly? Strength?
>>>
>>>Carl Fogel
>>
>>tapered for weight. the dropout end doesn't get twisted as
>>much as the bb end, so it doesn't need to be as strong,
>>ergo tapered tube is the way to go. just like the shaft of
>>a golf club. the handle end has to withstand the leverage
>>of the user accelerating the club and is therefore wider -
>>the head end just has to be strong enough to stop the end
>>flying off so is narrower [and thinner wall too].
>>
>>so, high end chain stays are tapered /and/ butted to be
>>thinner in the
>>middle. scroll through this page for examples.
>> http://dedacciai.com/prodotti/sat.htm
>>
>>as an aside, it fascinates me that certain "high end"
>>[i.e. _expensive_] titanium frame builders haven't figured
>>out the value of tapered tubes yet. i know that tapered
>>tubes are hard to make, especially having the thin wall at
>>the narrow end, but for the price on some of these frames,
>>to /not/ have tapered tubes is pretty outrageous.
>
>
> Dear Jim,
>
> I think that I follow your nice golf-club analogy.
>
> Now I have to ask how much--how much weight is actually
> saved by tapering the various frame tubes? Is this saving
> a few grams, a few ounces, or even a pound?
>
> Carl Fogel

i don't expect it's a lot - if you want specifics, you'd
have to work that out on an individual component basis. you
could try a math approximation for a conic but it's hard to
make account for non-uniform wall thickness.

my previous comment reflects a purist viewpoint. sure, a
straight tube may not make a lot of difference in weight,
but the priciple is to maximize material where it's needed,
the bb, and minimize it where it's not, the dropout.
ignoring that in a $2k, $3k or $4k frame either demonstrates
a frightening degree of ignorance or astonishing arrogance.
 
>>>AFAIK, chainstays aren't butted. At least they're not on
>>>the Reynolds
>>>531/753 Isiwata, Tange, and Columbus steel tube sets I've
>>> worked with in the past.

> On 2004-06-27, Phil Brown <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>The walls are tapered on good quality stays.

John Thompson wrote:
> When did they start doing that? In the past, Reynolds made
> "taper gauge" fork blades designed so that when the blades
> were tapered, you'd end up with uniform gauge throughout
> the length of the blade. But the chain stays were not done
> in this manner -- after tapering, the wall thickness at
> the small end of the stay was substatially thicker than at
> the large end. The Ishiwata, Tange, or Columbus tubes sets
> that I've built frames from were all the same way with the
> chain stays. But I haven't bought any tube sets for some
> time now, so perhaps things have changed in the interim.

The printed specs here from Reynolds, Columbus, Tange and
Ishiwata all say chainstays are delivered with constant wall
thickness end to end. But a quick measurement affirms your
observation:

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/C_STAYS.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
> > I know mounting a rear fender will require some
> > ingenuity. But with Blackburn P-clips at the rear
> > dropouts and the seatstay bridge, I figure the fender
> > should be fairly well secured. Wire between the fender
> > and chainstays behind the bottom bracket will probably
> > be enough to hold the fender in place.
>
> I am not visualizing what you mean.
>
> Jobst Brandt [email protected]

The frame has vertical dropouts. So the wheel should not get
stuck between the chainstays because it will not be pushed
forward. The frame has the seatstay bridge for mounting the
top of the fender in the normal manner. And Blackburn P-
clips will hold the back of the fender near the rear
dropouts. Near the bottom bracket shell the fender has a
tab/hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge. I will use
copper electrical wire around the chainstays and into the
tab/hole on the fender to secure the fender behind the
bottom bracket shell.
 
Russell Seaton writes:

>>> I know mounting a rear fender will require some
>>> ingenuity. But with Blackburn P-clips at the rear
>>> dropouts and the seatstay bridge, I figure the fender
>>> should be fairly well secured. Wire between the fender
>>> and chainstays behind the bottom bracket will probably
>>> be enough to hold the fender in place.

>> I am not visualizing what you mean.

> The frame has vertical dropouts. So the wheel should not
> get stuck between the chainstays because it will not be
> pushed forward. The frame has the seatstay bridge for
> mounting the top of the fender in the normal manner. And
> Blackburn P-clips will hold the back of the fender near
> the rear dropouts. Near the bottom bracket shell the
> fender has a tab/hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge. I
> will use copper electrical wire around the chainstays and
> into the tab/hole on the fender to secure the fender
> behind the bottom bracket shell.

I mentioned the wheel getting stuck because that was one of
the benefits of older bicycles that used horizontal
dropouts. Because the tube bridge was usually there
historically, it has remained on bicycles with long
chainstays, probably for belief in the arguments presented
here on their effectiveness. A thin tube in that direction
is not effective in shear or bending considering its
diameter in comparison to the tubes it is supposed to assist
in such forces. These fender mounts have been made of split
tubes, ones with an open seam down one side.

I'm sure there is a way of attaching a fender without it but
not as easily.

Jobst Brandt [email protected]
 
Russell Seaton <[email protected]> wrote:

> The frame has vertical dropouts. So the wheel should not
> get stuck between the chainstays because it will not be
> pushed forward. The frame has the seatstay bridge for
> mounting the top of the fender in the normal manner. And
> Blackburn P-clips will hold the back of the fender near
> the rear dropouts. Near the bottom bracket shell the
> fender has a tab/hole to bolt onto the chainstay bridge. I
> will use copper electrical wire around the chainstays and
> into the tab/hole on the fender to secure the fender
> behind the bottom bracket shell.

Zipties around the chainstays can also work:

http://www.mindspring.com/~d.g1/ziptie.htm

The top left illustration shows a fender with extra holes
drilled in the sides near the chainstays, that can make life
easier than trying to use the original hole in the center.
 

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