A
Andre Jute
Guest
Does anyone have suggestions for replacement cap nuts on my Shimano 8
speed hub gear axle? The Shimano code is Y-314 14010 and the spec is
BC 3/8" 26TPI.
I stripped one on my Trek Cyber Nexus, where Trek replaced Shimano's
own supplied cap nut with a shorter generic item to make it fit inside
the chaincase. I was torqueing it up to 40Nm at the time, which is
well within the spec for the Shimano's OEM type of 30-45Nm. Clearly
the replacement part isn't of the same quality as Shimano's original.
(And anything I choose shouldn't be machanically better than Shimano's
original: it would be horrid to strip the axle instead of the nut...)
Trivia: in replacing the stripped nut on the Trek temporarily with one
from my Gazelle Toulouse, I noticed that a) Gazelle get their cap nuts
custom made by Shimano's supplier (possibly via Shmano) with their
antelope symbol enamalled on the top in red -- nice -- and b) Gazelle
got their chain cases custom made to fit the cap nut, whereas Trek
bought their chaincase off the shelf, and tried to make it fit the
custom Shimano cabling (with expensive results in the first few bikes)
and had to replace the cap nut for clearance. There's a lesson in the
economics of scale here.
Sheldon reminder: Sheldon advised that the axle on the Nexus hubs be
greased, and a spot of grease used between the nut locking face and
the anti-turn washer in order to obtain a good hold with less force.
This is conveniently achieved by rubbing the grease across the locking
face of the nut so that the excess is on the internal thread, from
where it will transfer to the axle threads. I use Vaseline petroleum
jelly as routine thread grease: it's clean and it works well in my
undemanding conditions.
How high should you torque the Nexus hub's axle nuts? My LBS didn't
even own a torque wrench, and didn't use the one I bought to give him,
so by over-tightening he made indentations in the ali dropouts (1) of
an earlier bike of mine, which ****** me off and persuaded me to learn
to do my own maintenance. I started at 30Nm and eventually developed
chain slap, which indicates that the hub shifted forward. 35Nm and the
chain slap took longer to arrive. So I tried 40Nm with the above
result...
Andre Jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE & CYCLING.html
(1) Technically, track racing frame end cutouts are not dropouts,
because the axle cannot drop out.
speed hub gear axle? The Shimano code is Y-314 14010 and the spec is
BC 3/8" 26TPI.
I stripped one on my Trek Cyber Nexus, where Trek replaced Shimano's
own supplied cap nut with a shorter generic item to make it fit inside
the chaincase. I was torqueing it up to 40Nm at the time, which is
well within the spec for the Shimano's OEM type of 30-45Nm. Clearly
the replacement part isn't of the same quality as Shimano's original.
(And anything I choose shouldn't be machanically better than Shimano's
original: it would be horrid to strip the axle instead of the nut...)
Trivia: in replacing the stripped nut on the Trek temporarily with one
from my Gazelle Toulouse, I noticed that a) Gazelle get their cap nuts
custom made by Shimano's supplier (possibly via Shmano) with their
antelope symbol enamalled on the top in red -- nice -- and b) Gazelle
got their chain cases custom made to fit the cap nut, whereas Trek
bought their chaincase off the shelf, and tried to make it fit the
custom Shimano cabling (with expensive results in the first few bikes)
and had to replace the cap nut for clearance. There's a lesson in the
economics of scale here.
Sheldon reminder: Sheldon advised that the axle on the Nexus hubs be
greased, and a spot of grease used between the nut locking face and
the anti-turn washer in order to obtain a good hold with less force.
This is conveniently achieved by rubbing the grease across the locking
face of the nut so that the excess is on the internal thread, from
where it will transfer to the axle threads. I use Vaseline petroleum
jelly as routine thread grease: it's clean and it works well in my
undemanding conditions.
How high should you torque the Nexus hub's axle nuts? My LBS didn't
even own a torque wrench, and didn't use the one I bought to give him,
so by over-tightening he made indentations in the ali dropouts (1) of
an earlier bike of mine, which ****** me off and persuaded me to learn
to do my own maintenance. I started at 30Nm and eventually developed
chain slap, which indicates that the hub shifted forward. 35Nm and the
chain slap took longer to arrive. So I tried 40Nm with the above
result...
Andre Jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE & CYCLING.html
(1) Technically, track racing frame end cutouts are not dropouts,
because the axle cannot drop out.