Stripped crank arm

[Steve]

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had the Park crank
extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt the
extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the crank isn't coming
off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't getting the crank off
right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

 

[Calvin Jones]

For removal of a stripped arm, one fairly simply and effective method
is to loosen the crank bolt one or two turns and to ride the bike.
The pressure from the bolt holds the arm secure. The stress of riding
without pressure tends to loosen the arm, either square type or spline
type. Do not remove the bolt entirely, as the arm may come off during
a power stroke.

Regarding the tool mentioned by Pete Grey, that is a Bicycle Research
tool, the TC-10.

 

[Steve]

Thanks to all,

I had forgotten the excellent Park Tools website that offered the same
advice,

SB


"Calvin Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message ...
> For removal of a stripped arm, one fairly simply and effective method
> is to loosen the crank bolt one or two turns and to ride the bike.
> The pressure from the bolt holds the arm secure. The stress of riding
> without pressure tends to loosen the arm, either square type or spline
> type. Do not remove the bolt entirely, as the arm may come off during
> a power stroke.
>
> Regarding the tool mentioned by Pete Grey, that is a Bicycle Research
> tool, the TC-10.

 

[Pete Grey]

I looked up the tool, it's a BR-TC8.

Also, on biketoolsetc (shameless plug for guys with GREAT selection of
tools/small parts), I did some quick browsing, and there are a number of
pullers available that don't require threads at all.
Most look like they'd be easier on the crank than the fork model, some such
that I bet you could continue to use this crank indefinitely...

-pete

"Pete Grey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you have *any* threads at all left, there's a pretty good solution.
> Your LBS will have a little tool, that has pilot that threads into the BB
> threads themselvles. Then, there's a piced that guides down into the
> threads, over the pilot, and allows you to easily remove the crank.
> With this tool, it's shocking how little threds you need to pull the
crank.
> I got mine long ago, I think it's a QBP part, but I'm not sure. It's
saved
> me several times, great investment, and I've seen them on the wall at most
> LBS'.
>
> -pete
>
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had the Park crank
> > extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt
> the
> > extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.
> >
> > Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the crank isn't
coming
> > off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't getting the crank
off
> > right away either.
> >
> > So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special
> tool",
> > Sawzall the spindle ?.
> >
> > Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.
> >
> > Steve B.
> >
> >
>
>