Strong rear road wheel

[SteveA]

Its not the few ales, its the few ales after that and the few after that.

"I get ****** after one beer - the 15th"

I forget which comedian used that line but I like it

SteveA

 

[BrettS]

ritcho wrote:
> ...
> If you're regularly having to retrue the wheel, then follow Suzy's
> advice and I add that you should watch out for spoke windup. This
> happens when the spoke twists instead of advancing the nipple along the
> thread. One strategy is to over-turn and then back it off. For example:
> a quarter turn is achieved by tightening a half turn and then backing
> off a quarter.
>
This is why I like bladed spokes - you can see immediately if you've put
a twist in the spoke.

--
BrettS

 

[NoZX6R]

flyingdutch wrote:
> DeF Wrote:
>
>>G'Day, in another thread about built vs. factory wheels, I tell a
>>similar story - built wheels have always eventually gone out of true
>>and
>>then (or sooner) started pinging drive side spokes. I've recently
>>gone
>>over to factory wheels and after a couple of thousand km, am very
>>happy. No broken spokes, wheels still true. I weigh 96kg. So, I
>>recommend Campag Scirocco as a good compromise for weight, strength
>>and
>>price. They use the G3 spoking system which means that the rear wheel
>>has twice as many spokes on the drive side as the other. Bloody
>>sensible in my eyes. Your LBS should be able to swap over the spindle
>>to Shimano if that's what you use. The sciroccos, zondas and eurus
>>(in
>>increasing order of price) all have a moderately deep v-rim - you need
>>a
>>tube with longer valve.
>>
>
>
> i think my next wheels will be open-pros (they come in black, right?
> )
> but my current campag protons were a revelation. they amazingly
> survived 'the crash' even tho my handlebars were doubled over from the
> impact and all the other damage. makes you realise what an amazing bit
> of engineering a bunch of silly-narrow bits of wire arranged 'just-so'
> is...
> the guys at CW said they only needed 2 tweaks with a spoke-key and were
> perfecto again. amazing.
> oh, and i like it when 'coach' says 85kg is light!
>
> F"currently bloated out to 86kg"Dutch
>
>

what he said. I've got open pros (btw FD, there's two kinds of black in
open pros) and they've done at least 4000kms since new and haven't
needed truing yet.

OTOH, I've just built my first set of wheels using Deep V rims and
they've been great so far (although they've only done about 140kms).

I'd recommend either. But I think it's more about having them built by a
competent wheel builder. 85kgs is nothing for most 32H wheels.

--
Nick

 

[Absent Husband]

OK - thanks all for the advice... I was looking for some reinforcement
to justify spending hard-earned, but instead you have pushed me back to
the maintenance path. What is wrong with you guys?!?!?!

Well, youse have all inspired me to learn more about my bike and become
self-sufficient (I'm looking at you in particular, suzyj!!), so I set
to work on my recalcitrant rear wheel this afternoon.

I tightened ALL the spokes fairly tight (doing the magic quarter turn
back to avoid spoke wind-up), and then set about truing the beast. Took
me a while, and its still not quite perfect (tiny little kink I can't
quite get right... but its only minor) but all the spokes seem roughly
equally tight. After every few minutes, I gave all the 'spoke pairs' a
good squeeze for the whole stressing/tensioning thing as well, so
hopefuly I've covered all the bases...

Of course, the true test will be on my commute tomorrow (finally -
after 4 days of rain!!). Better take my spoke key just in case...!!

Cheers and thanks to all,
Absent Husband (wondering what that pinging sound is coming from the
shed...)

 

[ritcho]

[snip]

I tightened ALL the spokes fairly tight (doing the magic quarter turn
back to avoid spoke wind-up), and then set about truing the beast.

[snip again]

Cheers and thanks to all,
Absent Husband (wondering what that pinging sound is coming from the
shed...)

Tight? How tight is enough? If you don't have a tensiometer, it can be a little tricky but a rule of thumb that seems ok is that "normal" wheels play an F when plucked (440Hz). I used a recorder to compare the pitch. Of course, this rule of thumb is not suitable for all types of wheels and is probably nowhere near exact, but it did give me the idea that "tight" is _really_ tight (i.e., tighter than you think) for the right-side spokes!

Have fun and don't pull the spoke nipples through the rim!

Ritch

 

[Rory Williams]

Tight? How tight is enough? If you don't have a tensiometer, it can be a little tricky but a rule of thumb that seems ok is that "normal" wheels play an F when plucked (440Hz). I used a recorder to compare the pitch. Of course, this rule of thumb is not suitable for all types of wheels and is probably nowhere near exact, but it did give me the idea that "tight" is _really_ tight (i.e., tighter than you think) for the right-side spokes!

Have fun and don't pull the spoke nipples through the rim!

Ritch

Just a musical note, 440Hz is actually an A, in fact the standard A see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitch_(music)

Rory W

 

[Resound]

"ritcho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Absent Husband Wrote:
>>
>>
>> [snip]
>>
>> I tightened ALL the spokes fairly tight (doing the magic quarter turn
>> back to avoid spoke wind-up), and then set about truing the beast.
>>
>> [snip again]
>>
>> Cheers and thanks to all,
>> Absent Husband (wondering what that pinging sound is coming from the
>> shed...)
>
> Tight? How tight is enough? If you don't have a tensiometer, it can be
> a little tricky but a rule of thumb that seems ok is that "normal"
> wheels play an F when plucked (440Hz). I used a recorder to compare the
> pitch. Of course, this rule of thumb is not suitable for all types of
> wheels and is probably nowhere near exact, but it did give me the idea
> that "tight" is _really_ tight (i.e., tighter than you think) for the
> right-side spokes!
>
> Have fun and don't pull the spoke nipples through the rim!
>
> Ritch
>
>
> --
> ritcho
>

Um...440Hz is concert pitch A. You'd need to drop a third to find an F and
that's a big drop in tension. Is it an F or 440Hz? Check what key that
recorder is in too...I think the sopranos are a C key, but I'm not sure.

 

[Absent Husband]

Hey all,

I know you are all sitting on the edge of your seat for an update....

I rode in to work this morning, and *nothing happened*. 12km of
commuting, and the wheel is still in the same shape, and no spokes
broke... Hopefully that's a good sign!!

Did notice after my efforts yesterday that the drive side spokes are
super-tight compared to the 'left side' - but that appears to be normal
after some web-surfing (and ritch's comment above!!).

I'll check tonight after the commute home for any rim cracks around the
spoke nipples (which would be my worst nightmare!!)

Cheers all,
Absent Husband

 

[Tamyka Bell]

Rory Williams wrote:
>
> ritcho Wrote:
> > Tight? How tight is enough? If you don't have a tensiometer, it can be a
> > little tricky but a rule of thumb that seems ok is that "normal" wheels
> > play an F when plucked (440Hz). I used a recorder to compare the pitch.
> > Of course, this rule of thumb is not suitable for all types of wheels
> > and is probably nowhere near exact, but it did give me the idea that
> > "tight" is _really_ tight (i.e., tighter than you think) for the
> > right-side spokes!
> >
> > Have fun and don't pull the spoke nipples through the rim!
> >
> > Ritch
>
> Just a musical note, 440Hz is actually an A, in fact the standard A see
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitch_(music)
>
> Rory W
>
> --
> Rory Williams

I was really happy to see how many music-geeks picked that up!

Tam

 

[Theo Bekkers]

Resound wrote:

> I think the sopranos are a C key,

I thought they were a Mafia family.

Surely the 'note' will depend on the tension, the dish, and the thickness
and length of the spoke. I try to get them all to sound the same on front
wheels and all spokes on each side the same on the rear. I true my wheels in
an old fork I stick in the vice with a dial gauge running against the side
of the rim. Last wheel I had fail was when I ran through a pothole large
enough to snap the rear axle. Only needed a few tweaks to straighten the
rim. And a new axle. :-(

Theo

 

[flyingdutch]

what he said. I've got open pros (btw FD, there's two kinds of black in
open pros) and ...

'dark-BLACK' and 'So dark even the white bits are black-BLACK' ???

F"ecky-thooooomp"Dutch

 

[Theo Bekkers]

Theo Bekkers wrote:

> Surely the 'note' will depend on the tension, the dish, and the
> thickness and length of the spoke. I try to get them all to sound the
> same on front wheels and all spokes on each side the same on the
> rear. I true my wheels in an old fork I stick in the vice with a dial
> gauge running against the side of the rim.

Forgot to mention that I have a trusty copy of "The Wheel" by Jobst Brant.
Indispensible tool.

Theo

 

[Rory Williams]

Theo Bekkers wrote:

> Surely the 'note' will depend on the tension, the dish, and the
> thickness and length of the spoke. I try to get them all to sound the
> same on front wheels and all spokes on each side the same on the
> rear. I true my wheels in an old fork I stick in the vice with a dial
> gauge running against the side of the rim.

Forgot to mention that I have a trusty copy of "The Wheel" by Jobst Brant.
Indispensible tool.

Theo

For what it's worth, John Allen has produced a table converting pitch to spoke tension at http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm

do-re-me-fa-so-la-ti-do

Good luck

Rory W

 

[ritcho]

"ritcho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Absent Husband Wrote:
>>
>>
>> [snip]
>>
>> I tightened ALL the spokes fairly tight (doing the magic quarter turn
>> back to avoid spoke wind-up), and then set about truing the beast.
>>
>> [snip again]
>>
>> Cheers and thanks to all,
>> Absent Husband (wondering what that pinging sound is coming from the
>> shed...)
>
> Tight? How tight is enough? If you don't have a tensiometer, it can be
> a little tricky but a rule of thumb that seems ok is that "normal"
> wheels play an F when plucked (440Hz). I used a recorder to compare the
> pitch. Of course, this rule of thumb is not suitable for all types of
> wheels and is probably nowhere near exact, but it did give me the idea
> that "tight" is _really_ tight (i.e., tighter than you think) for the
> right-side spokes!
>
> Have fun and don't pull the spoke nipples through the rim!
>
> Ritch
>
>
> --
> ritcho
>

Um...440Hz is concert pitch A. You'd need to drop a third to find an F and
that's a big drop in tension. Is it an F or 440Hz? Check what key that
recorder is in too...I think the sopranos are a C key, but I'm not sure.

Apologies: the tension you want corresponds with a pitch of 440Hz, which is an A (not F). The F must have been my grade in music class.

Ritch

 

[BrettS]

Absent Husband wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I know you are all sitting on the edge of your seat for an update....
>
> I rode in to work this morning, and *nothing happened*. 12km of
> commuting, and the wheel is still in the same shape, and no spokes
> broke... Hopefully that's a good sign!!

Good work.

> Did notice after my efforts yesterday that the drive side spokes are
> super-tight compared to the 'left side' - but that appears to be normal
> after some web-surfing (and ritch's comment above!!).

Yes, they will be extremely tight, but this is necessary to be able to
have the non-drive side spokes tight enough not to come loose and still
keep the rim centralised. Ask me how I know...

> I'll check tonight after the commute home for any rim cracks around the
> spoke nipples (which would be my worst nightmare!!)

The CXP22s have eyelets right? These spread the load such that I would
expect you would be snapping spokes at the bend or the top of the thread
before they would pull out of the rim.

--
BrettS

 

[NoZX6R]

flyingdutch wrote:
> NoZX6R Wrote:
>
>>what he said. I've got open pros (btw FD, there's two kinds of black
>>in
>>open pros) and ...
>>
>
>
>
> 'dark-BLACK' and 'So dark even the white bits are black-BLACK' ???
>
> F"ecky-thooooomp"Dutch
>
>

one is glossy black and machined, the other is matt(ish) and not machined.

I forget exactly what mavic calls them.

--
Nick

 

[aeek]

flyingdutch wrote:
> NoZX6R Wrote:
>
>>what he said. I've got open pros (btw FD, there's two kinds of black
>>in
>>open pros) and ...
>>
>
>
>
> 'dark-BLACK' and 'So dark even the white bits are black-BLACK' ???
>
> F"ecky-thooooomp"Dutch
>
>

one is glossy black and machined, the other is matt(ish) and not machined.

I forget exactly what mavic calls them.

--
Nick

mine are gloss black rim face? with silver(metal) sides. Goes with the silver spokes that are the much more visible/safer in the early training light.