Stuck seat

Discussion in 'rec.sport.unicycling' started by carsonpalooza, Dec 26, 2005.

  1. so I got the qu-ax Muni for Christmas and I can not get the seat the
    right height because it will not let me push it down all the way. I
    cut the seat post down because it was to long and smoothed the edge and
    put lube on it and it still is extremely hard to push in all the way.
    The tube has around an inch or less until it comes out of the frame and
    I don't know what to do know. Any tips or suggestions?:confused:


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  2. ntappin wrote:
    > try loosening the seat post clamp more (or even take it all the way off
    > if you can put it back on after




    I've done that too but I might try the hammer later if there's no other
    options


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  3. lleberg

    lleberg Guest

    I don't know how they have solved the crown on the qu-ax frame..

    When i got my onza muni last spring, i had the same problem..
    When i checked the seat-tube for errors i found out the crown-welding
    had made a little bump inwards on the seat tube..

    Feel inside the seat tube with your index finger all the way around for
    things like this.
    You could just chop the seatpost a bit more and the problem is solved,
    you won't need that much seatpost-seattube interfae for it to be ridig
    as hell :)

    Happy tinkering!


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  4. The Qu-Ax seat post/frame tube is a BEAST. The only way I got it in was
    to squirt WD40 all over the seatpost. Then it slid down perfectly.


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  5. I took off the wheel and the seat to take a look at the frame and found
    two holes which is around the area where it is impossible to push the
    seat further. I tried using some WD-40 and had the same results. I'm
    calling udc tomorrow for some more info.


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  6. smcmorrow

    smcmorrow Guest

  7. Klaas Bil

    Klaas Bil Guest

    carsonpalooza wrote:
    > I took off the wheel and the seat to take a look at the frame and found
    > two holes which is around the area where it is impossible to push the
    > seat further. I tried using some WD-40 and had the same results. I'm
    > calling udc tomorrow for some more info.



    Those holes are not finished well and probably a tiny edge sticks into
    the seat tube beyond its intended diameter. Maybe if you can reach them
    with sand paper or a file you could rectify that, as a "poor man's"
    solution. A proper remedy would be to run a reamer of the correct
    diameter in the seat tube, something the manufacturer should have done.
    Your LBS should be able to do this for you.


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  8. tomblackwood

    tomblackwood Guest

    Klaas Bil wrote:
    > Those holes are not finished well and probably a tiny edge sticks into
    > the seat tube beyond its intended diameter. Maybe if you can reach them
    > with sand paper or a file you could rectify that, as a "poor man's"
    > solution. A proper remedy would be to run a reamer of the correct
    > diameter in the seat tube, something the manufacturer should have done.
    > Your LBS should be able to do this for you.



    This is one possibility, but another is just a bad combination of
    "standard variances" between your seat tube and your seat post. This
    stuff isn't made to the tightest tolerances in the world, so
    occasionally a thinner than average seat tube and a thicker than
    average seat post will combine to make a setup that won't come
    together.

    This happened to me when I bought a new Primo Rod for my Hunter frame.
    Didn't quite fit. The successful solution recommended by
    John_Childs--I'm sure just so he could laugh while I sweated for half
    an hour--was to sandpaper the heck out of the seat post with the
    coarsest paper I had. Took a while, wore my arm out, but in the end
    allowed me to grease up the post and fit it in.

    You can probably feel with your finger as to whether those holes have a
    tiny edge sticking into the seat tube. Try Klaas's method, but also be
    prepared to do some sanding on the seat post.


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  9. carsonpalooza wrote:
    > I've done that too but I might try the hammer later if there's no other
    > options




    "The three rules of hammering seatposts:

    1. Never install a seatpost with a hammer.

    2. Never, never install a seatpost with a hammer.

    3. Never, never, EVER install a seatpost with a hammer!"

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

    j.


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  10. tomblackwood wrote:
    > This is one possibility, but another is just a bad combination of
    > "standard variances" between your seat tube and your seat post. This
    > stuff isn't made to the tightest tolerances in the world, so
    > occasionally a thinner than average seat tube and a thicker than
    > average seat post will combine to make a setup that won't come
    > together.
    >
    >




    I tried putting in my other KH seat and had the same results so I don't
    think its that the seat post is a bit too think. I'm about to go try
    so slightly sand paper down the hole.


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  11. FatBoy-Dave

    FatBoy-Dave Guest

  12. lleberg

    lleberg Guest

    As i told you before..

    Many seattubes are tighter at the bottom wich makes the seatpost unable
    to be ushed all the way trough.

    Just cut the seatpost a bit more and you'ld be FINE.

    Try to put the seatpost in the seattube from the other way, and see for
    yourself if it fits at all :)


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  13. I ended up just cutting the seat post a few inches shorter and now it
    works just fine. I tried pushing the seat the other way through but
    because of the way the welding was done you can because over "over
    flow." thanks for all of the help


    -Carson


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  14. manon1wheel

    manon1wheel Guest

    the problem might be the pain on the seatpost. try grinding some of the
    paint off so the post is a little thinner. i did that to make it easier
    to get my seatpost on and off on my begginer unicycle.
    hope that helps:)


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  15. Klaas Bil

    Klaas Bil Guest

    tomblackwood wrote:
    > be prepared to do some sanding on the seat post.


    Well, Carson's problem has been solved by now. But just for the record,
    if a seat post is chromed, I'd be wary to sand it. If you remove the
    chrome layer completely (if only locally), you expose blank steel /
    iron which might get to rust and result in a stuck seat post.
    Conversely, reaming the seat tube is not much of a problem since the
    inside is usually blank metal anyway.


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