suggestions on good steel frame...




> >
> > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
> > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
> > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
> > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
> > Gunnar?


I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....
 
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> >
>> > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
>> > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
>> > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
>> > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
>> > Gunnar?

>
> I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
> ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
> brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
> 'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....


Peter, it's ok, there are many us here who believe you.
I was reading an article on Albert Eisentraut in an older issue of Bicycle
Guide, Oct. 1987.
He thinks, and I agree that most of the "American cyclist" wants the latest
design, most expensive components and bikes that look pretty and as far as
how the bike rides is secondary. They seem to care more about numbers than
the actually enjoyment of cycling...which is riding the bike.

There is one section when people come up to him and ask; "What tubing did
you use?" And he would answer: Why should it matter?, I use tubing that I
think would be most appropriate to build a good riding frame!
-tom
 
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> > >
> > > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
> > > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
> > > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
> > > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
> > > Gunnar?

>
> I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
> ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
> brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
> 'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....


WOW. Apparently the term "bargain" is very relative.
 
Tom Nakashima wrote:
> "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> >
> >> > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
> >> > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
> >> > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
> >> > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
> >> >
> >> > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
> >> > Gunnar?

> >
> > I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
> > ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
> > brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
> > 'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....

>
> Peter, it's ok, there are many us here who believe you.
> I was reading an article on Albert Eisentraut in an older issue of Bicycle
> Guide, Oct. 1987.
> He thinks, and I agree that most of the "American cyclist" wants the latest
> design, most expensive components and bikes that look pretty and as far as
> how the bike rides is secondary. They seem to care more about numbers than
> the actually enjoyment of cycling...which is riding the bike.
>
> There is one section when people come up to him and ask; "What tubing did
> you use?" And he would answer: Why should it matter?, I use tubing that I
> think would be most appropriate to build a good riding frame!
> -tom


i know. Another phenomenom is this fascination with the components,
rather than the 'heart' of the bicycle, the frameset. People will
upgrade components at the expense of the frame. My suggestion is
always, highest percentage into the frame, then the saddle, maybe
brakes, wheels. The last should be the shifters or ders or crank. More
for the frame even if it means less for the components. It's backwards
today.

I would rather ride my Merckx with shimano Sora than a crappy frame
with Record.
 
On 18 Aug 2005 06:59:20 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>> >
>> > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
>> > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
>> > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
>> > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
>> > Gunnar?

>
>I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
>ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
>brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
>'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....


Hi Peter, what does that frame weigh, let's say in a 54cm? I couldn't
find weight info on their website.

17lbs, is impressive, I think even if I went to light weight saddle,
tires, and fork, I couldn't get my 2002 LeMond Tourmalet down to
18lbs. With lightweight tires, but a heavy SI Prolink saddle, and
steel fork, it was at 20lbs. That's with the DA/Aerohead wheels you
built and mostly DA group, Ultegra cassette and pedals[PD-R600].

I did find the weight for the Gunnar Roadie [est 3.6lbs for 56cm].
LeMond claims that my frame is 3.7lbs.

I'm not really worried about the weight, I got it down to the 20, but
then decided I'd rather be flat free than lighter, and went with the
Conti Ultra Gatorskins in 700x25. Same with the heavy saddle, comfort
over weight.


Life is Good!
Jeff
 
"Jeff Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm not really worried about the weight, I got it down to the 20, but
> then decided I'd rather be flat free than lighter, and went with the
> Conti Ultra Gatorskins in 700x25. Same with the heavy saddle, comfort
> over weight.
> Life is Good!
> Jeff


Flat free?
wondering what they're feeding them gators.
-tom
 
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> writes:


>> >
>> > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
>> > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
>> > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
>> > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
>> > Gunnar?


>I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
>ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
>brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
>'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....



Peter, you'd be violating a cardinal rule ( from Saint Sloan, patron
Saint of bicycles, used to go by the name of "Eugene Sloan" ) :

Never spend more than half of your budget on parts.
Always put more money into the frameset than the parts.

So you should aim for a price of about $1800 ($900 frame, $900 parts)
if you want the bike to be a "bargain" ...

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
this is GUNNAR WEAK, right?
and there are what 5-6 Gunnar dealers
who goes on next week?
HOW BOUT THE TWO WHEEL DRIVE GUYS!!
two wheel drive runs the rockies!!
a BM report!
 
On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:02:29 -0700, "Tom Nakashima"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Jeff Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not really worried about the weight, I got it down to the 20, but
>> then decided I'd rather be flat free than lighter, and went with the
>> Conti Ultra Gatorskins in 700x25. Same with the heavy saddle, comfort
>> over weight.
>> Life is Good!
>> Jeff

>
>Flat free?
>wondering what they're feeding them gators.
>-tom
>


Well, I got 4100 miles on a Gatorskin rear tire, with no flats and
about 3700 on the front. The front still looks like new, and the back
although squared off has miles left to go.

Before that I was running a set of the Continental Attack/Force. With
400 miles on the rear, I tore the side wall out. They were nice riding
light weight tires, but not very durable.


Life is Good!
Jeff
 
On 18 Aug 2005 07:45:10 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>> > >
>> > > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
>> > > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
>> > > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
>> > > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
>> > >
>> > > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
>> > > Gunnar?

>>
>> I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
>> ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
>> brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
>> 'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....

>
>WOW. Apparently the term "bargain" is very relative.


Well, he did say "bargain" not "cheap."

Actually a guy who can do his own work could beat hell outtta that price.

Ron
 
Donald Gillies wrote:
> "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>
> >> >
> >> > To give you an idea... So far, the best looking option I've found is
> >> > the Gunnar Sport or Cross Hairs model frame and fork. The frameset is
> >> > between $800 - $1000. So, if I use the parts from my old bike, I can
> >> > have what I am looking for at around $1000.
> >> >
> >> > Does anyone have any suggestions that would be similar or better than
> >> > Gunnar?

>
> >I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
> >ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
> >brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
> >'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....

>
>
> Peter, you'd be violating a cardinal rule ( from Saint Sloan, patron
> Saint of bicycles, used to go by the name of "Eugene Sloan" ) :
>
> Never spend more than half of your budget on parts.
> Always put more money into the frameset than the parts.
>
> So you should aim for a price of about $1800 ($900 frame, $900 parts)
> if you want the bike to be a "bargain" ...
>


Don,

Ignoring the wisdom of the saying, "Saint Sloan" should be in quotation
marks and cannot even allude to the title of "patron Saint of
bicycles." All good cyclists know that the official (canonized by Pius
XXII, iirc) patron saint of bicycles and cycling is the Madonna di
Ghisallo. And when I visited the Madonna last year she was not talking
much, but then again I never expect much conversation from 'graven
images'.

- rick
 
On 18 Aug 2005 07:46:38 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>i know. Another phenomenom is this fascination with the components,
>rather than the 'heart' of the bicycle, the frameset. People will
>upgrade components at the expense of the frame. My suggestion is
>always, highest percentage into the frame, then the saddle, maybe
>brakes, wheels. The last should be the shifters or ders or crank. More
>for the frame even if it means less for the components. It's backwards
>today.
>
>I would rather ride my Merckx with shimano Sora than a crappy frame
>with Record.


I would like to posit that today, the difference between a cheap and
mid-range frame is less than it was 30 years ago, and the difference
between mid-range and high-end very much less. Simple quality control --
from the steel mill (or aluminum smelter) through the tube drawer to the
welder -- ensures that. In other words, you can get a frame that "rides
well" for not all that much money -- hell, you yourself in this very
thread were advocating building a $750 Ti frame from Gunnar into a $2500
bike, which is only about a third of total cost. I would submit that if
your criteria are more cost and ride characteristics than weight, you can
probably get a frame that rides that well for 300-400 as well, on which
you can safely hang Ultegra, Centaur, or even Chorus groups that cost more
than the frame without -- IMO -- being too unbalanced.

I think that as long as you don't *ignore* the frame entirely in favour of
poser value (which is what this mostly comes down to, whether you're
posing towards your friends with your spiffy Record or to yourself), you
should be able to find something in almost any reasonable price class that
will make a good bike.


Jasper
 
On 18 Aug 2005 15:47:59 -0700, [email protected] (Donald Gillies) wrote:
>"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email protected]> writes:


>>I'm gonna make a Gunnar into a bargin race bike to show that it will
>>ride wonderfully and not cost a lot. Centaur hubs, crank, BB, Veloce
>>brake calipers, Mirage ERGO(converted to 10s), front, rear ders...the
>>'package' will be in the 17 pound range for about $2500....

>
>
>Peter, you'd be violating a cardinal rule ( from Saint Sloan, patron
>Saint of bicycles, used to go by the name of "Eugene Sloan" ) :
>
> Never spend more than half of your budget on parts.
> Always put more money into the frameset than the parts.


When did Saint Sloan formulate this rule? I very much suspect that the
cost of framesets of a given quality has gone down since his day -- or to
be more exact, the cost of components of matching quality has gone up. As
has what we expect our components to do.


Jasper
 

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