Suntour rear cogs cassette removal problem

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Roger Ehrlich -, Jul 24, 2003.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I have this tool. as per
    instructions on http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml   I can't for the life of me get
    this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75 ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no
    lockring, but there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I look into the 2
    notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a washer inside the hub, but right now they
    are not in a position to block the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch
    wall). I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to be any rust either. Any
    suggestions?

    The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2 smallest cogs is 1st piece,
    gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces.
    I've cleaned the cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a washer
    seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for
    afixes the entire cassette on the hub. So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears
    to be NO lockring on the cassette.

    Thanks for your help, Roger
     
    Tags:


  2. Roger Ehrlich - CSCI/F1998 wrote:
    > I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I have this tool. as per
    > instructions on http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
    >
    > I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75 ft-lbs of torque, and it
    > still won't budge. There is no lockring, but there is something more than the illustrations on the
    > page shows. If I look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a washer
    > inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block the freewheel from coming off,
    > (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall). I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not
    > appear to be any rust either. Any suggestions?
    >
    > The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2 smallest cogs is 1st piece,
    > gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate
    > pieces. I've cleaned the cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
    > washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour fastener that I use the FR-2
    > tool for afixes the entire cassette on the hub. So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There
    > also appears to be NO lockring on the cassette.

    I think you're a bit confused here...if the FR-2 fits, it is _not_ a cassette, it's a freewheel.

    Freewheels are tightened onto the hub threads by the action of pedaling, so they commonly require a
    great deal of force to unscrew them. This is one of the major faults of this system.

    There are detailed instructions at http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

    Sheldon "Unnnnnnggghhh!" Brown +-------------------------------------------------------------+
    | If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough! | --BOB Simon |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
    Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
    shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
     
  3. In article <[email protected]>,
    [email protected] says...
    >
    >
    >I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I have this tool. as per
    >instructions on http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml   I can't for the life of me get
    >this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75 ft-lbs of torque, and it still won't budge. There is no
    >lockring, but there is something more than the illustrations on the page shows. If I look into the
    >2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a washer inside the hub, but right now
    >they are not in a position to block the freewheel from coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe
    >notch wall). I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not appear to be any rust either.
    >Any suggestions?
    >
    >The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2 smallest cogs is 1st piece,
    >gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate pieces.
    >I've cleaned the cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a washer
    >seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour fastener that I use the FR-2 tool
    >for afixes the entire cassette on the hub. So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also
    >appears to be NO lockring on the cassette.

    Get a bigger wrench. Seriously, you need a nice big wrench to remove a freewheel, which is what you
    have, from your hub. Or, if you are lucky enough to have a solidly mounted vice, use the vice to
    hold the tool and spind the wheel.
    -----------------
    Alex __O _-\<,_ (_)/ (_)
     
  4. Alex Rodriguez <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > In article
    <[email protected]>,
    > [email protected] says...
    > >
    > >
    > >I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I have this tool. as per
    > >instructions on http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
    > >
    > >I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75 ft-lbs of torque, and it
    > >still won't budge. There is no lockring, but there is something more than the illustrations on
    > >the page shows. If I look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a
    > >washer inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block the freewheel from
    > >coming off, (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall). I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and
    > >there does not appear to be any rust either. Any suggestions?
    > >
    > >The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2 smallest cogs is 1st piece,
    > >gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate
    > >pieces. I've cleaned
    the
    > >cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a washer seperating these
    > >2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour fastener that I use the FR-2 tool for afixes the
    > >entire cassette on the
    hub.
    > >So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO lockring on the cassette.
    >
    > Get a bigger wrench. Seriously, you need a nice big wrench to remove a freewheel, which is what
    > you have, from your hub. Or, if you are lucky enough to have a solidly mounted vice, use the vice
    > to hold the tool and spind the wheel.
    > -----------------
    > Alex __O _-\<,_ (_)/ (_)
    >
    I use an 12" crescent wrench with a 36" pipe "cheater" extension to do the deed
     
  5. A Muzi

    A Muzi Guest

    "Roger Ehrlich - CSCI/F1998" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:p[email protected]...
    > I'm trying to remove my rear cogs - Older Suntour® two notched- FR-2, I have this tool. as per
    > instructions on http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml
    >
    > I can't for the life of me get this cassette off the hub. I'm using > 75 ft-lbs of torque, and it
    > still won't budge. There is no lockring, but there is something more than the illustrations on the
    > page shows. If I look into the 2 notches there are 2 metal notches that seem to be from a washer
    > inside the hub, but right now they are not in a position to block the freewheel from coming off,
    > (ie: they are not againstthe notch wall). I have also used WD40 & Liquid Wrench and there does not
    > appear to be any rust either. Any suggestions?
    >
    > The cog cassette itself appears to be a 2 piece unit. Gears 9-12 - 2 smallest cogs is 1st piece,
    > gears 1-8 on 4 cogs is the 2nd unit. It's possible that the cogs for gears 1-8 are seperate
    > pieces. I've cleaned the cassette w/ varsol but cannot really tell unless I remove it. There is a
    > washer seperating these 2 pieces. However it appears that the Suntour fastener that I use the FR-2
    > tool for afixes the entire cassette on the
    hub.
    > So I don't think I need chainwhip tools. There also appears to be NO lockring on the cassette.
    >
    > Thanks for your help, Roger

    The freewheel is attached to the hub as tightly as you standing up on a hill in low gear. In fact,
    that's how you tightened it on.

    You 'll need to secure the remover into the freewheel with the skewer or an axle nut (so the tool
    does not cam out). Now mount the remover securely in a well-mounted vise and unscrew the wheel from
    it. Be sure to stop and loosen the skewer after the freewheel begins to turn.

    "75lbs of torque"is pathetically out of scale for this job. It is on _tightly_.

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
     
  6. Sounds to me what you got is not a freeHUB, but a freeWHEEL. Unlike freehubs, these are totally
    separate units. And a B!%=E7# to remove.

    If you have a bench vise, take the tool, insert it into it's slots in the freewheel and then
    re-install the wheel's quick release skewer, _loosely_.

    Now take the wheel and laying it flat (freewheel tool down) put the tool into the vise and
    tighten the vise jaws onto the tools flats. Grab the rim and twist hard. This should give you
    enough leverage.

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": http://www.geocities.com/czcorner
     
Loading...
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Loading...