Taking Care of Lycra



C

Chris M

Guest
I recently found the benefits of the latest chamois (stretchable) and
the difference from the previous (non-stretching) is much greater than
I had imagined (mostly because chamois have always been hyped along
with many other products, but...) that I decided to buy enough so that
I won't have to wear any other unless I choose to. I more than likely
will not wear any of the old shorts unless I find a repair shop to
change the obsolete chamois. If anyone knows of a shop that performs
repairs and or chamois replacement, I have 8 plus shorts that I would
have changed.

Of the 5 new shorts, only 2 cost less than $100 but even those would
cost me well over $100 if I needed to replace them at "street" prices.
The others are closer to $200, which I never thought I would ever use
or endorse clothing that costs that much. The thing is that along with
the chamois, there are also the issues related to fabrics, the
ventilation and aerodynamics (though I did not pay more for the "aero"
feature, but I am sure it won't cause any harm...I hope) features
increase the replacement costs even more. I am looking forward to
trying the shorts with the most ventilation when the weather climbs
over 100 degrees again.

In addition to these issues, I also have sever all white jerseys that
I use on hot days. It really does help, but the problem is that white
shows its age faster from discoloration to a gray-ish off-white. This
sucks and it is probably made worse because of the increased use of
it. I got several more of those so...

I would like to figure out the best way to maintain and clean these
fabrics. Most fabric hang-tags and web literature state that they
should be hand washed and hung dry. It seems to me that the most
important issue (after washing right away before they dry with your
perpiration in them) is the detergent. In the claims of several
specialty soap sellers, the sports fabric products claim to be
superior because of how well the detergent rinses out of the fabrics
during the wash cycle. I have always thought that using a fraction of
the soap box guidelines was a good idea because I don't get a lot of
junk on these clothes. If there are any visible junk stains I use a
spot cleaner (regular laundry supplies) and I make sure that if I do
have any clother with significant visible junk, I will separate the
lycra stuff and wash them on their own.

In the end, everything works great except for the white fabrics, and
the fading of Sun exposed sections of the garments. That leads me to
another claim that is made by the specialty soaps. They claim by
rinsing so well, this somehow improves the UV protection.

I am hoping that someone has some experience with an A B comparison of
a specialty soap that works well enough to notice its superiority over
typical laundry soaps. I would also like to know about any UV
protection that works.



1) Clearly superior sports fabric detergent and UV protection
2) Repair resource for sports apparel, hopefully including chamois
replacement


Thanks in advance
 
On Feb 9, 8:43 pm, "Chris M" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I recently found the benefits of the latest chamois (stretchable) and
> the difference from the previous (non-stretching) is much greater than
> I had imagined (mostly because chamois have always been hyped along
> with many other products, but...) that I decided to buy enough so that
> I won't have to wear any other unless I choose to. I more than likely
> will not wear any of the old shorts unless I find a repair shop to
> change the obsolete chamois. If anyone knows of a shop that performs
> repairs and or chamois replacement, I have 8 plus shorts that I would
> have changed.
>
> Of the 5 new shorts, only 2 cost less than $100 but even those would
> cost me well over $100 if I needed to replace them at "street" prices.
> The others are closer to $200, which I never thought I would ever use
> or endorse clothing that costs that much. The thing is that along with
> the chamois, there are also the issues related to fabrics, the
> ventilation and aerodynamics (though I did not pay more for the "aero"
> feature, but I am sure it won't cause any harm...I hope) features
> increase the replacement costs even more. I am looking forward to
> trying the shorts with the most ventilation when the weather climbs
> over 100 degrees again.
>
> In addition to these issues, I also have sever all white jerseys that
> I use on hot days. It really does help, but the problem is that white
> shows its age faster from discoloration to a gray-ish off-white. This
> sucks and it is probably made worse because of the increased use of
> it. I got several more of those so...
>
> I would like to figure out the best way to maintain and clean these
> fabrics. Most fabric hang-tags and web literature state that they
> should be hand washed and hung dry. It seems to me that the most
> important issue (after washing right away before they dry with your
> perpiration in them) is the detergent. In the claims of several
> specialty soap sellers, the sports fabric products claim to be
> superior because of how well the detergent rinses out of the fabrics
> during the wash cycle. I have always thought that using a fraction of
> the soap box guidelines was a good idea because I don't get a lot of
> junk on these clothes. If there are any visible junk stains I use a
> spot cleaner (regular laundry supplies) and I make sure that if I do
> have any clother with significant visible junk, I will separate the
> lycra stuff and wash them on their own.
>
> In the end, everything works great except for the white fabrics, and
> the fading of Sun exposed sections of the garments. That leads me to
> another claim that is made by the specialty soaps. They claim by
> rinsing so well, this somehow improves the UV protection.
>
> I am hoping that someone has some experience with an A B comparison of
> a specialty soap that works well enough to notice its superiority over
> typical laundry soaps. I would also like to know about any UV
> protection that works.
>
> 1) Clearly superior sports fabric detergent and UV protection
> 2) Repair resource for sports apparel, hopefully including chamois
> replacement
>
> Thanks in advance


I throw all my stuff in the washer and dryer. I use an extra rinse
cycle to try to get out all the soap. Just plain old super-market
brand soap. I have cheap-o shorts from Nashbar, and top-dollar
Castelli. Many pairs 10+ years old. No difference in durability. The
stitching and elastic seems to be what dies first. I have not noticed
any problems with the lycra. I've had some cheap loose legs and arms
(black) that were not color-fast that grey-ified some of my whites.
With copious washing (in the machine) they got white again. Loose
velcro in the washer is a no-no with lycra stuff. Other than velcro
damage, everything survives the washing machine at my house.

I wouldn't worry about it.

Joseph
 
On Feb 9, 1:43 pm, "Chris M" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In addition to these issues, I also have sever all white jerseys that
> I use on hot days. It really does help, but the problem is that white
> shows its age faster from discoloration to a gray-ish off-white. This
> sucks and it is probably made worse because of the increased use of
> it. I got several more of those so...
>
> I would like to figure out the best way to maintain and clean these
> fabrics. Most fabric hang-tags and web literature state that they
> should be hand washed and hung dry. It seems to me that the most
> important issue (after washing right away before they dry with your
> perpiration in them) is thedetergent.


I use Tide Free or Arm & Hammer Free. Amount adjusted to eliminate
need for extra rinse. I run the water level higher for synthetics; you
could adjust this just for rinse, too.

Rinse cycle works for whatever you have that might be extra dirty, or
stained clothing that has been pre-treated with "whatever". You can
put a full load, normal amount of detergent, on top of stuff that has
been run only in a rinse cycle, and you can put a little soap
(detergent) in with such a "rinse" load, such as sweaty workout duds,
which will help get them clean and not muck up the clothes you've
added. (Water/energy conservation at work)

My "care" tags mostly say machine wash, warm or cold, and "tumble dry"
low temp, or maybe "air dry" on one, with my Descente, Garneau,
ShaverSport, Pearl bike clothes.

Hand wringing is hard on clothing. I prefer the machine. Gentle cycle
is ok but at least with my clothes washer, the spin cycle doesn't
extract as much water as the normal cycle, which could mean longer
time in the dryer, big increase in wear and tear, or hanging damp for
a long time and probably drying kinda stiff.

I just use the normal cycle and cut it short for synthetics incl.
riding clothes. I use the auto setting, not the timer, for the dryer,
and set by estimation to where the thin stuff comes out just dry, and
the thicker/seamed stuff is slightly damp. Depending, I take the thin
stuff out and either hang the thick stuff to finish, or give it a few
more minutes in the dryer. Riding shorts I air dry only, no dryer, at
first on top of a cleaned dryer (no spots from damp clothes on
detergent/bleach spillage) while the other stuff runs.

The canary in the coal mine IME is riding socks. From talking to
others, socks run in the dryer die young. Mine don't. You just can't
cook the rubber in the "lycra" or whatever the name of the fabric is.
Thus the "barely dry" setting and I do check to make sure that's
what's happening. And that's why shorts are air-dried, because the
body of the short dries long before the chamois does.

I saw the RIT product suggestion. I haven't used their stuff, so no
opinion one way or the other. For yellowed jersies, I might try an
"Oxy-clean" additive to a regular detergent wash load, or a pre-soak--
Oxy-stuff is available on the supermarket shelf. You can presoak in
the machine either by setting or leaving the lid up, if the water
volume level can be set low enough to just cover your clothes.
Otherwise, a bucket works better. If you're not having good results
with a few attempts at stain treatment, a "sacrificial" garment could
be tried in a long, hot-water (at least to start) presoak in a strong
mix of detergent with color-safe bleach. There are other "organic
stain removers" available in the larger grocery stores, too. All else
failing, a tiny amount of Clorox-type real bleach can be tried on
another sacrificial experiment. Water, soap, bleach mixed and then add
the garment. Rinse well. Maybe even a soak in such a mix <g>.
Whatever.

I haven't tried any "specialty" products from athletic supply places
in many years. The one or two I did try smelled bad, left the smell in
the clothes, cost a lot, I wasn't impressed with how clean the clothes
were after use. Not to say there isn't some great stuff out there, by
any means.

FWIW, I have five or so old, worn-thin jersies with white sleeves and
side panels that are still very white, no yellowing, and do not have
an odor problem hanging or when being worn. Good luck. --D-y
 
On Feb 11, 12:00 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Feb 9, 1:43 pm, "Chris M" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > In addition to these issues, I also have sever all white jerseys that
> > I use on hot days. It really does help, but the problem is that white
> > shows its age faster from discoloration to a gray-ish off-white. This
> > sucks and it is probably made worse because of the increased use of
> > it. I got several more of those so...

>
> > I would like to figure out the best way to maintain and clean these
> > fabrics. Most fabric hang-tags and web literature state that they
> > should be hand washed and hung dry. It seems to me that the most
> > important issue (after washing right away before they dry with your
> > perpiration in them) is thedetergent.

>
> I use Tide Free or Arm & Hammer Free. Amount adjusted to eliminate
> need for extra rinse. I run the water level higher for synthetics; you
> could adjust this just for rinse, too.
>
> Rinse cycle works for whatever you have that might be extra dirty, or
> stained clothing that has been pre-treated with "whatever". You can
> put a full load, normal amount of detergent, on top of stuff that has
> been run only in a rinse cycle, and you can put a little soap
> (detergent) in with such a "rinse" load, such as sweaty workout duds,
> which will help get them clean and not muck up the clothes you've
> added. (Water/energy conservation at work)
>
> My "care" tags mostly say machine wash, warm or cold, and "tumble dry"
> low temp, or maybe "air dry" on one, with my Descente, Garneau,
> ShaverSport, Pearl bike clothes.
>
> Hand wringing is hard on clothing. I prefer the machine. Gentle cycle
> is ok but at least with my clothes washer, the spin cycle doesn't
> extract as much water as the normal cycle, which could mean longer
> time in the dryer, big increase in wear and tear, or hanging damp for
> a long time and probably drying kinda stiff.
>
> I just use the normal cycle and cut it short for synthetics incl.
> riding clothes. I use the auto setting, not the timer, for the dryer,
> and set by estimation to where the thin stuff comes out just dry, and
> the thicker/seamed stuff is slightly damp. Depending, I take the thin
> stuff out and either hang the thick stuff to finish, or give it a few
> more minutes in the dryer. Riding shorts I air dry only, no dryer, at
> first on top of a cleaned dryer (no spots from damp clothes on
> detergent/bleach spillage) while the other stuff runs.
>
> The canary in the coal mine IME is riding socks. From talking to
> others, socks run in the dryer die young. Mine don't. You just can't
> cook the rubber in the "lycra" or whatever the name of the fabric is.
> Thus the "barely dry" setting and I do check to make sure that's
> what's happening. And that's why shorts are air-dried, because the
> body of the short dries long before the chamois does.
>
> I saw the RIT product suggestion. I haven't used their stuff, so no
> opinion one way or the other. For yellowed jersies, I might try an
> "Oxy-clean" additive to a regular detergent wash load, or a pre-soak--
> Oxy-stuff is available on the supermarket shelf. You can presoak in
> the machine either by setting or leaving the lid up, if the water
> volume level can be set low enough to just cover your clothes.
> Otherwise, a bucket works better. If you're not having good results
> with a few attempts at stain treatment, a "sacrificial" garment could
> be tried in a long, hot-water (at least to start) presoak in a strong
> mix of detergent with color-safe bleach. There are other "organic
> stain removers" available in the larger grocery stores, too. All else
> failing, a tiny amount of Clorox-type real bleach can be tried on
> another sacrificial experiment. Water, soap, bleach mixed and then add
> the garment. Rinse well. Maybe even a soak in such a mix <g>.
> Whatever.
>
> I haven't tried any "specialty" products from athletic supply places
> in many years. The one or two I did try smelled bad, left the smell in
> the clothes, cost a lot, I wasn't impressed with how clean the clothes
> were after use. Not to say there isn't some great stuff out there, by
> any means.
>
> FWIW, I have five or so old, worn-thin jersies with white sleeves and
> side panels that are still very white, no yellowing, and do not have
> an odor problem hanging or when being worn. Good luck. --D-y


I use Simple Green to get stains out of kit after a muddy cyclocross
race. It's worked to remove grey stains on the white areas of clothing
(socks and jerseys) even after I've washed and dried them once already
without Simple Green.

I wash using the longest-duration, cold water, roughest setting and
sometimes extra detergent (Arm & Hammer).

I dry using medium temperature, 'til dry, not based on time.

I've only had one cycling garment show any trouble with this
treatment: a cheap pair of Trek shorts had the chamois top fabric
separate from the foam. Other shorts (and all socks and jerseys) have
survived many years, up to ten or fifteen years for some of my oldest
ones.

I think Simple Green is the thing for your white jerseys.
 
On Feb 11, 2:57 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:

> I use Simple Green to get stains out of kit after a muddy cyclocross
> race. It's worked to remove grey stains on the white areas of clothing
> (socks and jerseys) even after I've washed and dried them once already
> without Simple Green.


Sounds great. Have you ever pre-treated with SG?

> I wash using the longest-duration, cold water, roughest setting and
> sometimes extra detergent (Arm & Hammer).


How about any lingering SG odor?

> I dry using medium temperature, 'til dry, not based on time.


Yup, you just can't cook the rubber. I killed a couple of pairs of
riding shorts a year or so ago (known flakey contrasting panels came
apart) and so got real conservative with the dryer and shorts.

Thanks for the post; I have a first-grader and have never thought of
using SG on laundry. Most of the time the magic marker, crayon, plain
old dirt, etc. comes out very well with Dawn dish detergent; every
once in a while I have a failure. Worth a try. --D-y
 
On Feb 12, 8:10 am, H M Leary <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
>
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> SNIP
>
>
>
> > I think Simple Green is the thing for your white jerseys.

>
> Soylent Green works better.
>
> HAND


I was listening to a radio program discussing the use of pop tunes in
advertising and they were talking to (I think) Randy Bachman of
Bachman Turner Overdrive about the use of their song "Taking Care of
Business" in ads.

He mentioned they drew the line at a request to use it for a toilet
paper ad.

D'ohBoy
 
On Feb 11, 6:36 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 11, 2:57 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > I use Simple Green to get stains out of kit after a muddy cyclocross
> > race. It's worked to remove grey stains on the white areas of clothing
> > (socks and jerseys) even after I've washed and dried them once already
> > without Simple Green.

>
> Sounds great. Have you ever pre-treated with SG?


I never thought of it as pre-treating, but when I crashed and had mud
stains on the shoulders I sprayed a bunch on the local stains, tossed
it in the washer, poured in a bit of SG from the bottle, then switched
on the machine.

A few weeks later when all my kit was completely soaked in brown soupy
mud, I didn't spray any spots (didn't have any; or maybe the whole kit
was one big brown spot!), just tossed the whole load into the machine
and added some SG as I started the load. I don't know how much, since
I just poured by hand. I'd guess maybe close to a cup, or a little
less.

> > I wash using the longest-duration, cold water, roughest setting and
> > sometimes extra detergent (Arm & Hammer).

>
> How about any lingering SG odor?


None that I remember.

> > I dry using medium temperature, 'til dry, not based on time.

>
> Yup, you just can't cook the rubber. I killed a couple of pairs of
> riding shorts a year or so ago (known flakey contrasting panels came
> apart) and so got real conservative with the dryer and shorts.


Bummer! Not fun to ruin clothes you like.

> Thanks for the post; I have a first-grader and have never thought of
> using SG on laundry. Most of the time the magic marker, crayon, plain
> old dirt, etc. comes out very well with Dawn dish detergent; every
> once in a while I have a failure. Worth a try. --D-y
 
In article <[email protected]>,
"Chris M" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I am hoping that someone has some experience with an A B comparison of
> a specialty soap that works well enough to notice its superiority over
> typical laundry soaps. I would also like to know about any UV
> protection that works.


Forget about everything else. The trick is in front loader. Front
loading washing machines are much much more gentler than top loading
machines. Ladies trust them with their silk lingerie!
--
 
Lots of good feedback, thanks. I think I was on the right track and if
I try one of the specialty soaps that work really well I will follow
up here. I had already realized that only a fraction of the soap that
is recommended by the sellers is plenty for all but the muddiest
clothing. The only changes I will make is that I think I will endeavor
to never let the clothes dry with my perspiration in them. I think
that is the one area I might have neglected. As a single father, I
typically just wash all of the clothes at the end of each day and only
separate really harsh stuff from others that might be damaged (good
point on the Velcro). Now, I have started to pre-fill the wash machine
with water to that rather than slowly drying post-ride.

On a separate but related subject, I have noticed that on long hard
rides in the winter with lots of layers that some fabrics trap more of
the smell than others. This reminded me that athletic persperation is
probably much more harsh on fabrics than run-of-the-mill perspiration.
Ever notice that ammonia scent? If I spend a siginificant amount of
time at a heart rate above 150 or so, the very specific odor is
stronger and more distinct. That has to be harsher than sitting in
water. So, if I find any differences on the whites and I learn
anything not mentioned here, I promise to follow up again.

Thanks again to everyone.

As a PS, I use 1/4 the recommended soap of an unscented and un-dyed
type but otherwise no particular brand. In addition, I started to use
the minimum setting for time in the wash cycle, the most gentle, and
maximum water level in the hope that all of these factors will help to
get rid of soap residue, which so far everyone with an opinion agrees
is the key culprit.
 
"Chris M" <[email protected]> writes:

> Lots of good feedback, thanks. I think I was on the right track and if
> I try one of the specialty soaps that work really well I will follow
> up here. I had already realized that only a fraction of the soap that
> is recommended by the sellers is plenty for all but the muddiest
> clothing. The only changes I will make is that I think I will endeavor
> to never let the clothes dry with my perspiration in them. I think
> that is the one area I might have neglected.


[snip]

So you were already using the Soylant Green?

The only "sweaty" comment was "Chris M's":

>> It seems to me that the most important issue
>> (after washing right away before they dry with your
>> perpiration in them) is the detergent.


That means you're going to wash everything you wear after every ride.
Generally it's the washing that wears out the clothes (perhaps even if
you just put it in the sensitive washer). I don't see any harm in
hanging up sweaty lycra and putting a fan on them to get ready for the
next day. After all, you're sweating out up to a good gallon during
the ride, all of which is evaporating when you're wearing the lycra.
What's the harm in letting the last ounce dry in your closet? I don't
think there's anything in the salts contained in your sweat that will
damage the lycra. I generally wear things several days or more before
drying and putting in the sensitive stuff dirty washbag, and when I
get caught out in the slop then just wash everything that's
accumulated. Same deal with the bike: wait until it's a real mess and
then go nuts.

Bill Westphal
 
Bill Westphal <[email protected]> writes:

Whoops, sorry, Fyodor said that, not you

> "Chris M" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> Lots of good feedback, thanks. I think I was on the right track and if
>> I try one of the specialty soaps that work really well I will follow
>> up here. I had already realized that only a fraction of the soap that
>> is recommended by the sellers is plenty for all but the muddiest
>> clothing. The only changes I will make is that I think I will endeavor
>> to never let the clothes dry with my perspiration in them. I think
>> that is the one area I might have neglected.

>
> [snip]
>
> So you were already using the Soylant Green?
>
> The only "sweaty" comment was "Chris M's":
>
>>> It seems to me that the most important issue
>>> (after washing right away before they dry with your
>>> perpiration in them) is the detergent.

>
> That means you're going to wash everything you wear after every ride.
> Generally it's the washing that wears out the clothes (perhaps even if
> you just put it in the sensitive washer). I don't see any harm in
> hanging up sweaty lycra and putting a fan on them to get ready for the
> next day. After all, you're sweating out up to a good gallon during
> the ride, all of which is evaporating when you're wearing the lycra.
> What's the harm in letting the last ounce dry in your closet? I don't
> think there's anything in the salts contained in your sweat that will
> damage the lycra. I generally wear things several days or more before
> drying and putting in the sensitive stuff dirty washbag, and when I
> get caught out in the slop then just wash everything that's
> accumulated. Same deal with the bike: wait until it's a real mess and
> then go nuts.
>
> Bill Westphal
 
"Bill Westphal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> >
> > That means you're going to wash everything you wear after every ride.


Yes. If you have sensitive skin in your sensitive area that is wise. If your
bikeshort isn't that dirty, just use water and no detergent.

> > Generally it's the washing that wears out the clothes (perhaps even if
> > you just put it in the sensitive washer). I don't see any harm in
> > hanging up sweaty lycra and putting a fan on them to get ready for the
> > next day. After all, you're sweating out up to a good gallon during
> > the ride, all of which is evaporating when you're wearing the lycra.
> > What's the harm in letting the last ounce dry in your closet? I don't
> > think there's anything in the salts contained in your sweat that will
> > damage the lycra. I generally wear things several days or more before
> > drying and putting in the sensitive stuff dirty washbag, and when I
> > get caught out in the slop then just wash everything that's
> > accumulated.


Yuck.

>> Same deal with the bike: wait until it's a real mess and
> > then go nuts.


I agree with that.

Lou
 
On 13 Feb 2007 22:20:58 -0800, "Chris M" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>This reminded me that athletic persperation is
>probably much more harsh on fabrics than run-of-the-mill perspiration.


I think it's less harsh, but there's more of it.

--
JT
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On Feb 9, 1:43 pm, "Chris M" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I recently found the benefits of the latest chamois (stretchable) and
> the difference from the previous (non-stretching) is much greater than
> I had imagined (mostly because chamois have always been hyped along
> with many other products, but...) that I decided to buy enough so that
> I won't have to wear any other unless I choose to. I more than likely
> will not wear any of the old shorts unless I find a repair shop to
> change the obsolete chamois. If anyone knows of a shop that performs
> repairs and or chamois replacement, I have 8 plus shorts that I would
> have changed.
>
> Of the 5 new shorts, only 2 cost less than $100 but even those would
> cost me well over $100 if I needed to replace them at "street" prices.
> The others are closer to $200, which I never thought I would ever use
> or endorse clothing that costs that much. The thing is that along with
> the chamois, there are also the issues related to fabrics, the
> ventilation and aerodynamics (though I did not pay more for the "aero"
> feature, but I am sure it won't cause any harm...I hope) features
> increase the replacement costs even more. I am looking forward to
> trying the shorts with the most ventilation when the weather climbs
> over 100 degrees again.
>
> In addition to these issues, I also have sever all white jerseys that
> I use on hot days. It really does help, but the problem is that white
> shows its age faster from discoloration to a gray-ish off-white. This
> sucks and it is probably made worse because of the increased use of
> it. I got several more of those so...
>
> I would like to figure out the best way to maintain and clean these
> fabrics. Most fabric hang-tags and web literature state that they
> should be hand washed and hung dry. It seems to me that the most
> important issue (after washing right away before they dry with your
> perpiration in them) is the detergent. In the claims of several
> specialty soap sellers, the sports fabric products claim to be
> superior because of how well the detergent rinses out of the fabrics
> during the wash cycle. I have always thought that using a fraction of
> the soap box guidelines was a good idea because I don't get a lot of
> junk on these clothes. If there are any visible junk stains I use a
> spot cleaner (regular laundry supplies) and I make sure that if I do
> have any clother with significant visible junk, I will separate the
> lycra stuff and wash them on their own.
>
> In the end, everything works great except for the white fabrics, and
> the fading of Sun exposed sections of the garments. That leads me to
> another claim that is made by the specialty soaps. They claim by
> rinsing so well, this somehow improves the UV protection.
>
> I am hoping that someone has some experience with an A B comparison of
> a specialty soap that works well enough to notice its superiority over
> typical laundry soaps. I would also like to know about any UV
> protection that works.
>
> 1) Clearly superior sports fabric detergent and UV protection
> 2) Repair resource for sports apparel, hopefully including chamois
> replacement
>
> Thanks in advance


My only special precaution with cycling clothes is to usually wash
them together and then hang to dry. No dryer. Wash cycle is regular
or one of those extra long ones. Regular amount of whatever cheap
liquid laundry soap I am using for everything. Dryers are what wear
out clothes. Ever wonder where that handful of lint comes from after
every dryer cycle? The lint from a dryer is the fabric in your
clothes. Washers might tear apart a piece of clothing on the center
spindle thing once every other purple moon. But the dryer eats a
little bit of your clothes every single time it is used.

My shorts always develop wear spots on the backside from the saddle
long before anything else wears out on them. So eventually my minimal
modesty requires me to retire the shorts from public viewing. Jerseys
seem to last a long time for me. I have quite a few though so maybe
individually they don't get much time out. I will usually use the
same pair of shorts or tights or jersey for two 30-50 mile rides
before washing them. Hang up to dry between rides. Never had any
problems with this.
 
[email protected] wrote:

>
> My only special precaution with cycling clothes is to usually wash
> them together and then hang to dry. No dryer. Wash cycle is regular
> or one of those extra long ones. Regular amount of whatever cheap
> liquid laundry soap I am using for everything. Dryers are what wear
> out clothes. Ever wonder where that handful of lint comes from after
> every dryer cycle? The lint from a dryer is the fabric in your
> clothes.


Maybe it is the wear caused by the washer or from just wearing it that's
dried up and not sticking to the fabric anymore and conveniently blown
to one spot.

Washers might tear apart a piece of clothing on the center
> spindle thing once every other purple moon. But the dryer eats a
> little bit of your clothes every single time it is used.


I can't believe that.


Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu (http://www.nb.nu)
 
In article
<[email protected]>,
"Chris M" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Lots of good feedback, thanks. I think I was on the right track and if
> I try one of the specialty soaps that work really well I will follow
> up here. I had already realized that only a fraction of the soap that
> is recommended by the sellers is plenty for all but the muddiest
> clothing. The only changes I will make is that I think I will endeavor
> to never let the clothes dry with my perspiration in them. I think
> that is the one area I might have neglected. As a single father, I
> typically just wash all of the clothes at the end of each day and only
> separate really harsh stuff from others that might be damaged (good
> point on the Velcro). Now, I have started to pre-fill the wash machine
> with water to that rather than slowly drying post-ride.



I pull off the riding gear and drop it into a bucket of
water. Typically I go 3-4 rides before using detergent
at all. Spin out the water and air dry on hanges. I do
not use chamois cream, so that is not a consideration.

--
Michael Press
 

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