T
Tim Steele
Guest
Well, our new budget MTB tandem (Ammaco Other Half) is going okay.. although the nearside rear
chainstay has a slightly worrying notch in it (filed by the previous owner) and my friend who knows
everything about bikes is worried about the rear wheel disintegrating the first time we try and go
up a hill!
So far all I've done to it is remove the knobbly tyres and fit Schwalbe Silentos, add a computer,
bend the gear hanger so it's parallel (sigh), change the captain's saddle and fit some lights.
The rear wheel looks pretty much like a standard MTB rear wheel with a 6 speed freewheel, and
arguably this isn't enough for a tandem. What do people think - should we panic, throw away the rear
wheel and replace it now, or wait until it breaks? If replacement is imperative, what with? I've
seen a rear wheel which an LBS built for a 20st policeman which looks pretty strong - 13 gauge
spokes, very chunky rim with eyelets, strong hub, so that might be the way to go. The snag of course
is that strong hubs seem to be invariably cassette (after all the bearings are further apart) which
means you're more or less forced to go to 7-8 speed, which means new gear selector, new chain etc.
Advice welcome! (Myra, are you reading this?)
Tim
chainstay has a slightly worrying notch in it (filed by the previous owner) and my friend who knows
everything about bikes is worried about the rear wheel disintegrating the first time we try and go
up a hill!
So far all I've done to it is remove the knobbly tyres and fit Schwalbe Silentos, add a computer,
bend the gear hanger so it's parallel (sigh), change the captain's saddle and fit some lights.
The rear wheel looks pretty much like a standard MTB rear wheel with a 6 speed freewheel, and
arguably this isn't enough for a tandem. What do people think - should we panic, throw away the rear
wheel and replace it now, or wait until it breaks? If replacement is imperative, what with? I've
seen a rear wheel which an LBS built for a 20st policeman which looks pretty strong - 13 gauge
spokes, very chunky rim with eyelets, strong hub, so that might be the way to go. The snag of course
is that strong hubs seem to be invariably cassette (after all the bearings are further apart) which
means you're more or less forced to go to 7-8 speed, which means new gear selector, new chain etc.
Advice welcome! (Myra, are you reading this?)
Tim