Tell me what you think (building a bike)

[boudreaux]

So would they make a better first racing bike than a Surly? The 2 I am looking at are, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=98084&item=3693903620 and http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=98084&item=7166214337

Light, stiff aluminum has to be better than an old school cromo boat anchor. The first one built with 6061 is better material than I would have thought. Most cheap frames are the easier and cheaper to make 7005 aluminum. Forget about reparability tho. But even with a cromo frame it often isn't cost effective even tho it can be doen.

 

[Doctor Morbius]

So would they make a better first racing bike than a Surly? The 2 I am looking at are, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=98084&item=3693903620 and http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=98084&item=7166214337

What's your total budget for this project? $600? $800? $1000? Give us a number. Will it include FREE labor? Personally, I wouldn't ask a friend to do something that he does for his livelyhood for free as it's kind of a big insult, but that's just me. What kind of labor charges are you looking at?

 

[jitteringjr]

There is cheap or good value,and then there is inane for the stated purpose.The frame and fork weighs 6.7 pounds....

OK I was looking at the frame weight thinking they were listing both together. 2.09 pounds for just the fork is pretty bad.

 

[KikyoMerc]

I am looking to spend probably about 800-1000, (assuming I can get that much). Labor is free, I am building it myself, with his help (he is my moms boyfriend so its not a problem, not to mention I will be working in his bike shop later this year).

 

[Doctor Morbius]

I am looking to spend probably about 800-1000, (assuming I can get that much). Labor is free, I am building it myself, with his help (he is my moms boyfriend so its not a problem, not to mention I will be working in his bike shop later this year).

If you can manage $1000 I'd hit the ol' Mom's boyfriend up for a nice discount on a Specialized Elite double in Flo Red and forget about this using a Surly or Leader frame nonsense to construct a "racing bike" as you put it in your first post. I think you may be chasing phantoms ... values that aren't really there!

If not a Specialized Elite, then a Giant OCR1 aluminum. No boyfriend boinking Mom discount needed for that one. It's MSRP is $1000. Then there's allways the perennial favorite - the Trek 1500.

With any of these bikes there's something of value called a warranty. Then as you spend some time working in the bike shop you can get a much much better feel for what you want to build as a custom. Building a custom it's too easy to 1) go way over budget 2) think something is chic (or chi chi as Boudreaux would put it) at the time and regret it later & 3) spend way too much time dicking around with it when you could be out riding.

 

[KikyoMerc]

I am not quite sure what you mean by values that arent there. Are you talking about prices, or are you talking about the values of building my own bike opposed to buying a new one?

I can not get a deal on a specialized, or any bike for that matter. He used his bike discounts for the year.

edit: Thanks for all your help

 

[dhk]

I am not quite sure what you mean by values that arent there. Are you talking about prices, or are you talking about the values of building my own bike opposed to buying a new one?

I can not get a deal on a specialized, or any bike for that matter. He used his bike discounts for the year.

edit: Thanks for all your help

Believe what Doc means is that you can do better buying a new bike off the shelf for $800-$1000. By the time you finish messing around with a cheap frame, shopping for deals on all the components, you'll invest a lot of time and effort to build up something not very special at all. The savings just aren't there, unless you're willing to take a chance on used junk on ebay.

If you want to ride this summer, suggest it's better to just buy a new bike like the Trek or Giant Doc suggests from your favorite LBS...test ride, buy and enjoy.

 

[John M]

Believe what Doc means is that you can do better buying a new bike off the shelf for $800-$1000. By the time you finish messing around with a cheap frame, shopping for deals on all the components, you'll invest a lot of time and effort to build up something not very special at all. The savings just aren't there, unless you're willing to take a chance on used junk on ebay.

If you want to ride this summer, suggest it's better to just buy a new bike like the Trek or Giant Doc suggests from your favorite LBS...test ride, buy and enjoy.

Sounds like part of the problem is that our boy doesn't have the freedom to shop around at different shops or online to get the best deal, but is rather tied to the shop owned by the mom's boyfriend that happens to not have any deals on new stock bikes to give, but does have a heavy steel Surly laying around and an assortment of mid to lower range parts.

 

[KikyoMerc]

My moms boyfriend bought a Surly for himself, but couldnt use it, so he was going to sell it to me for 200. The shop itself does not have any of the components, they would be ordered for me. I would be getting a very good deal on any components I want, from Sora to DA. But no, I can not get a deal on a stock bike. Not until late October anyway. And even then, its only Jamis, Giant, Raleigh, Fuji and Cannondale.

 

[minttea]

Edit: accidentally replied to a long-dead thread

 

[notryt]

Well having built 5 bikes in the last year (18.5 lbs heaviest) Get yourself a cannondale caad (4,5,7) frame... they are basically all the same .. the 4 is a 1 inch tube all under 3 lbs ... and under $300 on ebay... your not going to find a lighter frame or a better one for under 1200. and its handmade... a 105 drive train isnt bad.. but I would personally try to find a sugino (or clone) crank.. same price range but you'll knock off about 85 grams and you can get isis bottom brackets for almost nothing. wheels are what cost the cash.. and you have to match the wheel to the rider... your not gonna put a 200 pounder on a 22 spoke wheel. more spoke heavier rims... always opt for a v-shaped rim if durability is an issue.. they weigh 30-40 grams more but they are almost bullet-proof. -NotRyt (cat.3)

 

[sanmusa]

I am also looking at Leaders frames (not sure which model, more than likely the LD-350R). What do you think of this/these frames.

I've bought a Leader LD-736R frame and the frame is very nice, clean, light and inexpensive. As far as I can see you can't go wrong buying a Leader.

My Leader LD-736R

 

[notryt]

I've bought a Leader LD-736R frame and the frame is very nice, clean, light and inexpensive. As far as I can see you can't go wrong buying a Leader.

Let me know what this really weighs.. my experience with 7005 frames is that they cant be made under 4 lbs. (7005 is showing up on more expensive frames now but it is cheaper tubing) I have a frame that are 7005 and built a bike with a 7005 frame and both frames are over 4 lbs each. Also something that everyone should know.. If you buy a frame that uses an IS (integrated) headset DO NOT buy one whos steer tube is very short. The shorter tubes add extra stress to the bearings and become very sloppy and require constant adjustment. I off'd a frame for this reason, got tired of having to ride around with an allen wrench. also buy a compression nut and put the star nut up on ebay