C
[email protected]
Guest
On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 03:11:11 +0100, "Trevor Jeffrey"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote in message ...
>>Trevor Jeffrey writes:
>>> Open your eyes and use the method I use, that of shaping the spoke
>>> at the crossing point so as it does not act as a spring, but a
>>> restraining member of the wheel.
>>
>>Would you be kind enough to expand on that. I don't understand how
>>you do that. The torsional strength of a 1.5mm diameter spoke is too
>>weak to withstand tightening torque at any length. Tightening torque
>>from the spoke nipple is uniform throughout the spoke, length has no
>>bearing on that. It is not windup as such that is the problem but
>>spoke rupture from the combination of tension and torque.
>>
>>However, please explain your technique of "shaping the spoke",
>>"restraining" and "acting as a spring". This is entirely new to me.
>>
>
>You should pay more attention, back of the dinner queue for you.
>
>My build method involves shaping the spoke at the crossing point so that it
>takes a direct line from hub to crossing point and from crossing point to
>rim whether it is loose or infinitely tight. This ensures that the
>differential loading between a pair of spokes keeps the lateral movement at
>the crossing to a minimum (within the graphs that have been produced notice
>the narrow angle over which a spoke has to move as it varies between high
>and low values, much less than the angle between a spoke and its partner).
>This then reduces angular displacement of the spoke where it joins with the
>hub (caused by the differential loading between a pair of spokes) and so
>minimises its affect on fatigue failure at the hub juncture. It is the side
>to side bending of the spokes which are the primary cause of fatigue failure
>of spokes not shaped during construction of a wheel.
>
>A wheel built without shaping at the x-ing require an infinite amount of
>tension in the spokes to enable them to come close to being straight. This
>is why you have found high tension in spokes reduces fatigue failure of
>those spokes. The over tensioning also helps in the respect of shaping the
>x-ing so will also help. I have gone one step further and specifically
>shaped the spokes at the x-ing point so that spokes are straight from hub to
>x-ing and from x-ing to rim. They deviate little whether extremely tight or
>just tight enough to prevent loose spokes under service conditions.
>
>Lace wheel in standard manner. tension so spokes assume final angle. Mark
>x-ing point on pair of spokes. Remove nipples on this pair. Bend spokes
>across each other so there angular displacement is equal and appropriate for
>their final resting position. Install nipples with driver, checking that
>the spokes are touching each other and the nipples are centred and slack in
>the rim holes. Check the angles with a straight edge and a gauge, little
>finger nail may do. Tighten back to initial tension. Work round wheel
>doing all the other pairs. When the wheel is tightened up for service it
>will be seen upon inspection that movement at the crossing points is
>minimal. It will be found that truing up becomes very easy, with each
>nipple movement placing an obvious related movement at the rim.
>
>Without shaping, the spoke curves around its partner and so maintains this
>curve unless infinite spoke tension is used. Steel is always curved to make
>springs. Hence you have a spring. This is what makes a wheel sloppy. Take
>a spoke out of one of your wheels and examine how straight it is. You will
>find it to be curved, and so it is acting as a spring, maintaining similar
>tension on contraction and expansion. a straight spoke will increasingly
>resist expansion as the strain increases. Only minimal tension is required,
>not maximal because the spoke is already straight.
>
>So here we have a wheel which does not require exceedingly high tensions to
>make it function and so it is unlikely to snap a spoke or pop a nipple. I
>use linseed oil to prevent the nipple rattling out of adjustment with
>vibration during gross overload of the wheel.
>
>Trevor
>
Dear Trevor,
I'd be glad to host a picture or diagram showing how you
bend or shape crossing spokes. If you're interested, just
email the images to me at [email protected] and I'll
reply with the address where anyone can download them.
Carl Fogel
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote in message ...
>>Trevor Jeffrey writes:
>>> Open your eyes and use the method I use, that of shaping the spoke
>>> at the crossing point so as it does not act as a spring, but a
>>> restraining member of the wheel.
>>
>>Would you be kind enough to expand on that. I don't understand how
>>you do that. The torsional strength of a 1.5mm diameter spoke is too
>>weak to withstand tightening torque at any length. Tightening torque
>>from the spoke nipple is uniform throughout the spoke, length has no
>>bearing on that. It is not windup as such that is the problem but
>>spoke rupture from the combination of tension and torque.
>>
>>However, please explain your technique of "shaping the spoke",
>>"restraining" and "acting as a spring". This is entirely new to me.
>>
>
>You should pay more attention, back of the dinner queue for you.
>
>My build method involves shaping the spoke at the crossing point so that it
>takes a direct line from hub to crossing point and from crossing point to
>rim whether it is loose or infinitely tight. This ensures that the
>differential loading between a pair of spokes keeps the lateral movement at
>the crossing to a minimum (within the graphs that have been produced notice
>the narrow angle over which a spoke has to move as it varies between high
>and low values, much less than the angle between a spoke and its partner).
>This then reduces angular displacement of the spoke where it joins with the
>hub (caused by the differential loading between a pair of spokes) and so
>minimises its affect on fatigue failure at the hub juncture. It is the side
>to side bending of the spokes which are the primary cause of fatigue failure
>of spokes not shaped during construction of a wheel.
>
>A wheel built without shaping at the x-ing require an infinite amount of
>tension in the spokes to enable them to come close to being straight. This
>is why you have found high tension in spokes reduces fatigue failure of
>those spokes. The over tensioning also helps in the respect of shaping the
>x-ing so will also help. I have gone one step further and specifically
>shaped the spokes at the x-ing point so that spokes are straight from hub to
>x-ing and from x-ing to rim. They deviate little whether extremely tight or
>just tight enough to prevent loose spokes under service conditions.
>
>Lace wheel in standard manner. tension so spokes assume final angle. Mark
>x-ing point on pair of spokes. Remove nipples on this pair. Bend spokes
>across each other so there angular displacement is equal and appropriate for
>their final resting position. Install nipples with driver, checking that
>the spokes are touching each other and the nipples are centred and slack in
>the rim holes. Check the angles with a straight edge and a gauge, little
>finger nail may do. Tighten back to initial tension. Work round wheel
>doing all the other pairs. When the wheel is tightened up for service it
>will be seen upon inspection that movement at the crossing points is
>minimal. It will be found that truing up becomes very easy, with each
>nipple movement placing an obvious related movement at the rim.
>
>Without shaping, the spoke curves around its partner and so maintains this
>curve unless infinite spoke tension is used. Steel is always curved to make
>springs. Hence you have a spring. This is what makes a wheel sloppy. Take
>a spoke out of one of your wheels and examine how straight it is. You will
>find it to be curved, and so it is acting as a spring, maintaining similar
>tension on contraction and expansion. a straight spoke will increasingly
>resist expansion as the strain increases. Only minimal tension is required,
>not maximal because the spoke is already straight.
>
>So here we have a wheel which does not require exceedingly high tensions to
>make it function and so it is unlikely to snap a spoke or pop a nipple. I
>use linseed oil to prevent the nipple rattling out of adjustment with
>vibration during gross overload of the wheel.
>
>Trevor
>
Dear Trevor,
I'd be glad to host a picture or diagram showing how you
bend or shape crossing spokes. If you're interested, just
email the images to me at [email protected] and I'll
reply with the address where anyone can download them.
Carl Fogel