Them solid tyres



M

MartinM

Guest
I am about to take an angle grinder to my folding bike (3rd puncture on
the way to work in as many weeks) but before I do, and also before I
have to once again dismantle the entire hub brake assembly to get the
back wheel out, are there still such a thing as those solid tyres?
(I know they used to be utter ****). It needs a narrowish 20" er.
 
MartinM wrote:

> are there still such a thing as those solid tyres?
> (I know they used to be utter ****). It needs a narrowish 20" er.


Don't know, but Marathon Plus should be available in 20" IIRC.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
MartinM wrote:

>
>spindrift wrote:
>> Try Schwalbe Marathon Plus:
>>
>> http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b6s142p31

>
>thanks; but too wide; I need ones which are City Jet sized.


How wide is a city jet? Marathon plus for 20" is 47-406 but plain
Marathons can be got at 40-406 and Marathon Slicks at 35-406.
--
Phil Cook looking north over the park to the "Westminster Gasworks"
 
POHB wrote:
> They're rock.


Surely they're not /that/ heavy? ;-)

I've got Marathons on the Brompton - mainly because, like Martin, I've
got no idea how I would go about removing the back wheel in the event
of needing to repair a p+nct+re. Just ornery Marathons, though, not the
Plus version.

d.
 
davek wrote:

> I've got Marathons on the Brompton - mainly because, like Martin, I've
> got no idea how I would go about removing the back wheel in the event
> of needing to repair a p+nct+re.


It's not actually /that/ hard once you have unclipped the toggle chain
from the hub. I have Marathons on mine and find them v. goof too, but
if changing to them you'll have to take the back off to put one on in
the first place...

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
In article <[email protected]>, davek
([email protected]) wrote:
> POHB wrote:
> > They're rock.

>
> Surely they're not /that/ heavy? ;-)


Nice and solid...

> I've got Marathons on the Brompton - mainly because, like Martin, I've
> got no idea how I would go about removing the back wheel in the event
> of needing to repair a p+nct+re. Just ornery Marathons, though, not the
> Plus version.


I've got Marathon Slicks on the trike. Current set have "only" had one
visit from the P+nct+r+ Fairy in ~1800 km, a fact possibly not
unconnected with Sliming the inner tubes after the Watership Down.

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
You can't have ham!
 
MartinM wrote:
> I am about to take an angle grinder to my folding bike (3rd puncture on
> the way to work in as many weeks) but before I do, and also before I
> have to once again dismantle the entire hub brake assembly to get the
> back wheel out, are there still such a thing as those solid tyres?
> (I know they used to be utter ****). It needs a narrowish 20" er.


Has anyone mentioned Marathon Plus' yet?

Funny enough I didnt realise the Marathon Kevlar was available in 20".
Bear that in mind soon.
 
>>> Try Schwalbe Marathon Plus:
>>>
>>> http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b6s142p31

>>
>>thanks; but too wide; I need ones which are City Jet sized.

>
>How wide is a city jet? Marathon plus for 20" is 47-406 but plain
>Marathons can be got at 40-406 and Marathon Slicks at 35-406.


Dutch Perfects come in 37-406 http://www.dutch-perfect.nl/frm-gb.asp.
Marathon Slicks are, in my experience, nowhere near as puncture resistent as
normal Marathons.
http://www.airfreetires.com/ have a solid 37-406. Sadly the seemingly much
quicker 32-406 is out of stock at the moment.
Or use a thornproof liner between inner and outer tire. The Proline Antiplatt
liner on my trike has kept all punctures at bay for 2 years now.

Mark van Gorkom.
 
thanks for all the replies about Solid tyres ;-)

Marathons it is (mudguards permitting)
 
davek wrote:
> POHB wrote:
> > They're rock.

<snip>
> like Martin, I've
> got no idea how I would go about removing the back wheel in the event
> of needing to repair a p+nct+re.

<snip>
> d.


There are (or were) a species of inner tube available which were not
circular (torus) shaped as normal, but straight (more like a literal
"tube" with sealed ends).
Picture a normal tube, cut clean through a a point opposite the valve,
then the open ends sealed. It was a bit longer than the equivalent
normal tube, so the end sealed ends overlapped a bit when fitted inside
a tyre.

The theory was that if you punctured, you could remove the old tube
(cutting it away if necessary), and put in this replacement without
removing the wheel from the bike.

I know, I know. This smacks of advising you on the best place to buy
crutches, rather than suggesting you get boots with steel toe caps.
Nonetheless, if still available, it might be a handy addition for the
bottom of the bag for those without QRs and those extra special cold
dark rainy nights when the F***y comes out to play.

I believe I saw them for sale on eBay at one time.

Regards,

bookieb
 
bookieb wrote:
> There are (or were) a species of inner tube available which were not
> circular (torus) shaped as normal, but straight (more like a literal
> "tube" with sealed ends).
> Picture a normal tube, cut clean through a a point opposite the valve,
> then the open ends sealed. It was a bit longer than the equivalent
> normal tube, so the end sealed ends overlapped a bit when fitted inside
> a tyre.
>
> The theory was that if you punctured, you could remove the old tube
> (cutting it away if necessary), and put in this replacement without
> removing the wheel from the bike.
>
> I know, I know. This smacks of advising you on the best place to buy
> crutches, rather than suggesting you get boots with steel toe caps.
> Nonetheless, if still available, it might be a handy addition for the
> bottom of the bag for those without QRs and those extra special cold
> dark rainy nights when the F***y comes out to play.
>
> I believe I saw them for sale on eBay at one time.


I believe you still can. I believe I bought some only last week. They
come in a box with Halfords branding - they were £6.99 when new in
Halfords a few years ago (which goes some way to explain why they're now
on eBay I suppose). I use them on the back wheel of my fixie, which
saves me taking a 15mm spanner with me. I also keep one as my barbag
spare, as it'll fit almost every one of my bikes.

It works as a slight improvement on my previous easy repair idea, which
was to drill a second hole in the rim and fit two inner tubes.

JimP

--
Let's think the unthinkable, let's do the undoable, let's prepare to
grapple with the ineffable itself, and see if we may not eff it after
all. - DNA
 
My City jets are 1.25", 1.75 is not going to fit inside the mudguards.
To add insult to injury the lidl clamp that holds the frame together
when not folded has just bust , new one on order; riding round Hyde
Park Corner on the remaining one was scary. off for 2 weeks after
tomorrow; if it hasn't arrived by then I may resort to other means.
It's all Southern Railway's fault.
 
In article <[email protected]>,
([email protected]) wrote:
> spindrift wrote:
> > Try Schwalbe Marathon Plus:
> >
> > http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b6s142p31

>
> Definitely.
> But if you want to do it cheaper then I like slime or equivalent goo.
> To put it in my current favourite is to make a stab in the tube rather
> than try the valve.


May I commend to Sir Schwalbe inner tubes, from which the core may be
unscrewed, thereby allowing Slime to be injected freely into the tube?

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
Whatever it is, I'd like it in mango & passion fruit, please.