Tiagra Brifter Adjustment?

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Gary R. Brower, Jun 13, 2003.

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  1. "Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > Most of the 'cross bikes I see around are steel. Trek has an the Al XO-1, but have not seen one
    > > on the trail - just in your shop :) Gunnar's,
    > Surly's,
    > > Ritchey's, Somas, etc. that I see around here are good ol' steel.
    > That's due to fashion, not function. The 'cross market is most definitely on the retro side
    > of things!

    Hmmm, I think you severely underestimate the functional aspect. The only advantage of Al is in
    lightweight with ultra-thin tubes, which is not a good idea in cross riding. Beefy Al has no weight
    savings, so why buy?

    I do not have the insight into Trek marketing you do, but I suspect the death of the 540 Al touring
    bike while the 520 steel frame remains popular is a similar situation; touring cyclists saw no real
    advantage in the 540 and some potential downsides, so opted for the tried and true 520; just my

    > I've actually seen a steel frame that was essentially destroyed because it fell against a rock
    > just exactly the wrong way, crumpling the top tube. No rider on it, it just fell over. Obviously,
    > the builder had figured that the top tube does little more than hold things in place, so he used
    > something with outrageously-thin walls.

    And if it was lugged a good framebuilder could fix it easily.;-)

    > be greater. At the far extreme would be the Schwinn Varisty, which I guess you could use to prove
    > the point that the strongest-possible frame would be made of steel (16-gauge gas pipe tubing,
    > actually).

    Rode one as my commute bike in college - up to 20 miles each way.

    > A reasonable person has to make a reasonable choice based upon their own concerns. But the example
    > of touring in Bolivia affects such a small number of people buying bikes that such factors really
    > shouldn't enter into the considerations most people include when comparing bikes.

    I agree with the first part, but not fully with the second. These factors will be the same for
    anyone doing extremely rough riding, whether in Bolivia or the Bay Area. Frame failures happen,
    sometimes due to rough riding, sometimes due to crashes, sometimes due to manufacturing failure.
    Point is, how easy is it to overcome the problem. Easier here, but I prefer to have the option to
    repair rather than toss a frame.

    > If I were cycling in Bolivia, I'd personally be more concerned about wheels than my frame.
    > Specifically, if I had to buy a replacement wheel, could I find one in the correct axle width? If
    > I had a cassette or freewheel fail, would I be carrying a spare? Wheel issues are far more likely
    > to be the cause of a touring disaster than a busted frame.

    Correct, and the most likely wheel failure are broken spokes. Most self-supported touring cyclists
    carry spokes for just this reason, and cassette crackers. Who cares about axle width? If it is close
    a good steel frame is flexible enough, if it is too far off the frame can be cold set in the field.
    What type of cassette failure? If one or two cogs get bent, straighten them best you can and proceed
    without using them. If you need to replace a 9sp with an 8sp, good thing you have a friction shift
    option on those barcons or DT shifters ;-) I think it was last year that Jobst did a field rebuild
    of a hub that had gotten water in it using sunscreen as the lube. The idea is to know the
    probabilities and know enough to work around the problems best you can. If you have an exotic frame
    material, you may be trying to convince some villager to sell you their only mode of transport to
    save your butt, or waiting for next time some truck happens down that particular road to give you a
    lift to someplace you can catch a bus, train, plane, or boat. Been there - though a broken down
    bicycle was not the cause - and would prefer that I not end up in the situation again.

    - rick warner

  2. gary-<< Is there any way to adjust the "throw" of the outer handle on a Tiagra Brifter (for
    shifting, not braking, purposes)? I'm not talking about the cable, but the "throw" of the handle
    itself before it engages the cable.

    No sir. It must move a set amount to engage the 'click' in the lever which corrsponds to a set
    amount of rear or front der movement. All the lever is doing is winding the cable around a spool of
    a set size.

    << On my left hand brifter, for example, there's very little movement necessary before the handle
    engages and starts moving the cable; on the right hand unit, however, there's about an inch of
    free-play (at the bottom of the handle). >><BR><BR>

    Lever may be 'ill'...

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
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