Tiller? Wheel flop???

[cjscott]

I'm learning these new terms, tiller effect, wheel flop?? I assume this means the wobbly feeling some recumbants have or failure to go in a straight line or turn that I found with the couple I rode? Can anyone explain further? And also, which models have the least problem with this? I know of a BikeE (know they're out of business) for sale, was that one known for more stability? Some of the ones we're considering are Burley Koosah & Sand Point, Cycle Genius (husband rode ALX yest but found a little bit of this tiller effect so still wants to try another), Maxarya Ray or Ray 1, Rans Tailwind, EZ Sport, or another EZ, etc., Cannondale bent. Please give me an idea of which models have the LEAST problem with this and feel the most stable to ride. We live in NY and have to be able to maneuver if a car comes up behind us, some bumpy roads, need something with good handling but comfortable. Thanks again all for your help! CJ

 

[sch]

To a DF rider, all recumbents feel shaky and wobbly until you get used to the steering. This is NOT wheel flop or tiller however. Recumbents have two general designs, one in which the steering axis is in direct near vertical line with the front wheel, as it is on a DF (regular frame style) bike and another in which the steering is by way of a relatively long stem that angles back toward the rider. The Rotator Pursuit (www.rotatorrecumbent.com) and Rans V2 are examples of this. The long stem results in the 'tiller effect' which is where the rider seemingly turns the handlebar 'opposite' of the direction of the turn analogous to the tiller of a boat. Wheel flop means that when you are at rest and let go of the bar the wheel will tend to spontaneously flop to one side or the other. With a long stem this means the bar can rotate a foot or two away from the rider. You should anticipate a 100-200mile acclimation to the peculiarities of riding recumbents. Tiller type steering is NOT a problem and becomes just as natural as riding a regular bike. Steering feel is much better if you lightly grip the bar or just rest your hands on the bar without grabbing it for nontiller bents. The tighter you grab the bar the shakier the bike will be. Steve

 

[cjscott]

Thank you for your time to explain this to me. It was very helpful and informative! CJ

 

[bencouncil]

Having experienced both extremes of zero tiller and extreme tiller--being the owner of an USS SWB recumbent and a lowracer recumbent--the greater the tiller effect the more difficult it is to hold a perfect line and the more likely you are to over-correct until you adapt. I have experienced the wheel flop phenomenon on all my 'bents. If conditions are perfect I can ride at peril with no hands, but never in my dreams could I perform a maneuver such as removing an outer layer with no hands on the bars. Not a big deal for me because my need for that little extra margin of safety never allowed me to develop the no-hands riding on my DF. So I can do just about everything that needs to be done on the bike one handed anyway. . .well hand and mouth anyway.