Touch-up paint question

[Bruce W.1]

Do bicycles use lacquer or enamel paint?

I need to do some touch-up painting on my bike, mostly for rust
prevention. The auto parts stores have Dupli-Color paint, but the main
color selection is lacquer paint.

I could get the paint custom mixed at a car paint place, but that would
cost more and I'd have to use an air brush, which can be a pain in the rear.

Does anyone have recommendations on how to do good touch-up work, and
what to use?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Bruce W.1]

Bruce W.1 wrote:
> Do bicycles use lacquer or enamel paint?
>
> I need to do some touch-up painting on my bike, mostly for rust
> prevention. The auto parts stores have Dupli-Color paint, but the main
> color selection is lacquer paint.
>
> I could get the paint custom mixed at a car paint place, but that would
> cost more and I'd have to use an air brush, which can be a pain in the
> rear.
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on how to do good touch-up work, and
> what to use?
>
> Thanks for your help.
===================================================

I should add that my bike is an ancient Raleigh Pro. And I need to do
some major touch-up, like the entire top and bottom tubes. Doing this
with a brush would look like hell. So I need to spray it.

Thanks again.

 

[[email protected]]

don't get wound up about it and in the 'meantime'whatever that means
slime the sanded rust with linseed oil, and linseed dropouts, axle
ends, bare metal
and search to BikeTech's:
DIY Paint Removal

and paint the inside with rustoleum/white/thinned a bit for good flow
on a hot dry day after setting the frame to cook in the sunshine's
photon bombardment to remove moisture

 

[Bruce W.1]

[email protected] wrote:
> don't get wound up about it and in the 'meantime'whatever that means
> slime the sanded rust with linseed oil, and linseed dropouts, axle
> ends, bare metal
> and search to BikeTech's:
> DIY Paint Removal
>
> and paint the inside with rustoleum/white/thinned a bit for good flow
> on a hot dry day after setting the frame to cook in the sunshine's
> photon bombardment to remove moisture
>
===================================================

Wet sanding is a good thing, but why linseed oil? Of what benefit is
linseed oil? Should it be rinsed to remove the linseed oil afterwards?

I had intended to sand it and maybe use a zinc chromate primer on the
bare metal.

As a side note, this Reynolds 531 frame is steel.

Thanks.

 

[[email protected]]

read the DIY paint remover and search for linseed oil. linseed is a wax
that waterproofs, repells water, and tends to heal the rust
underneath-the rust goes hard from no available oxygen.linseed is for
temporary paint loss waterproofing or waterproofing that is to say
rustproofing in areas that are usually worked bare of paint by solvent,
such as oils, action or mechanical abrasion.
linseed works on axle threads and nuts with a 2-8 pound breakaway
torque after the stuff sets up, again preventing rust.
you can with considerable lasting success use linseed for slob
work-casually remove some rust, apply linseed thinned a bit in hot
sun-no surface moisture-allow to dry competely then paint over with
rustoleum or to be rocket sized linseed/rusto/latex/rusto=this seals
out oxygen and moisture. These layers are what the rusto rust-solver
and like paints pretend to be especially if you use farm grade rusto
and metallic latex.

sanding removes metal-use the rotary brush. the wires scoop down into
the multitude of scratchs filled with ****, sanding requires planning
down into each scratch. takes forever.BS!

the zinc chromate works but is very tech and touchy. brittle. requires
care and experience for 100% coverage without small tears over the
surface to allow moisture in whereas more primitive rusto or even
linseed are slob positive and hard to screw up.

rusto farm is good but requires hot weather or infrared lamps for
drying.
think farm farmer time efficiency-what you're doing is like painting a
farm tractor not a bugatti to be shown at pebble beach then garaged.

the two part paints are terrific one step up from zinc chromate but
toxic and requires experienced coordination to apply properly-like the
chromate.

paint tubes insides!!

 

[A Muzi]

> [email protected] wrote:
>> don't get wound up about it and in the 'meantime'whatever that means
>> slime the sanded rust with linseed oil, and linseed dropouts, axle
>> ends, bare metal and search to BikeTech's DIY Paint Removal
>> and paint the inside with rustoleum/white/thinned a bit for good flow
>> on a hot dry day after setting the frame to cook in the sunshine's
>> photon bombardment to remove moisture

Bruce W.1 wrote:
> Wet sanding is a good thing, but why linseed oil? Of what benefit is
> linseed oil? Should it be rinsed to remove the linseed oil afterwards?
> I had intended to sand it and maybe use a zinc chromate primer on the
> bare metal.
> As a side note, this Reynolds 531 frame is steel.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/paint_repair.html

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971