Touring bike selection



M

Matt Murphy

Guest
Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June
through France and Italy. I want to camp while travelling so
this means I will be travelling quite heavy (stove, tent,
sleeping bag, etc.). I want to go about 100 km a day
although it's possible that somedays I could go further. The
majority of my biking experience to date is on a triathlon
bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady trip but I
enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to use a mountain
bike. However, in July I'm planning on going to Iceland and
I'll probably bring the bike I end up buying which means
getting something a little more solid. If anyone has a
recommendation on a faster bike that can endure gravel as
well I would love to hear it.

Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but
apparently it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't be
fitted with knobby tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I was
recommended was the Amsterdam, which is a performance
hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale models, and the Trek 520
and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or others) would
be optimal for the uses I want.

Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does
anyone who has toured out there have a suggestion on what is
preferable. I realize drop-down has more options on hand
positions, but I've also heard most people with drop-downs
just end up keeping there hands positioned as if they were
straight bars.

Any advice that touring bikers have to share would be much
appreciated. Thanks a lot. Matt, [email protected]
 
"Matt Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June
> through France and Italy. I want to camp while travelling
> so this means I will be travelling quite heavy (stove,
> tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I want to go about 100 km a day
> although it's possible that somedays I could go further.
> The majority of my biking experience to date is on a
> triathlon bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady
> trip but I enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to
> use a mountain bike. However, in July I'm planning on
> going to Iceland and I'll probably bring the bike I end up
> buying which means getting something a little more solid.
> If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike that can
> endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.
>
> Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but
> apparently it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't
> be fitted with knobby tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I
> was recommended was the Amsterdam, which is a performance
> hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale models, and the Trek
> 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or others)
> would be optimal for the uses I want.
>
> Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does
> anyone who has toured out there have a suggestion on what
> is preferable. I realize drop-down has more options on
> hand positions, but I've also heard most people with drop-
> downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as if
> they were straight bars.
>
> Any advice that touring bikers have to share would be much
> appreciated. Thanks a lot. Matt, [email protected]

A few bikes you may want to look at:

Rivendell Romulus:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_romulusframes.html

Rivendell Atlantis:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_atlantisframes.html

Bruce Gordon's BLT: http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html
 
[email protected] (Matt Murphy) writes:

> Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June
> through France and Italy. I want to camp while travelling
> so this means I will be travelling quite heavy (stove,
> tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I want to go about 100 km a day
> although it's possible that somedays I could go further.

Conceivably much further, unless you're getting off the bike
frequently to sight-see. After all, on tour you may ride 10
hours a day quite frequently, and at a very modest average
of 15 km/h you can still cover 150 km in a day.

Have you checked out the Trento Bike Pages? There is a
wealth of information about touring- IMHO the best starting
point for touring on the Web:

http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike

> The majority of my biking experience to date is on a
> triathlon bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady
> trip but I enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to
> use a mountain bike.

Why would you use a mountain bike for touring? Use a
touring bike; there are many to choose from and a Google
search will help you find them. IMHO your best starting
point for loaded touring like this is
http://www.bgcycles.com which is Bruce Gordon.

> However, in July I'm planning on going to Iceland and I'll
> probably bring the bike I end up buying which means
> getting something a little more solid. If anyone has a
> recommendation on a faster bike that can endure gravel as
> well I would love to hear it.

Friends of mine have done Iceland. Twice. "Gravel" is a
generous description for the roads covered in golf-ball
to tennis-ball-sized rocks. They found much of the roads
unrideable as a result, not to mention the winds. In this
case a mountain bike or a bike that will take 40+ mm
tires would be helpful- again, Bruce Gordon is the guy to
go to, IMHO.

> Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but
> apparently it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't
> be fitted with knobby tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I
> was recommended was the Amsterdam, which is a performance
> hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale models, and the Trek
> 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or others)
> would be optimal for the uses I want.

From your limited description, it's hard to say what might
be best to suit you. You can tour the French and Italian
Alps on a "race" bike with a saddlebag quite well.

> Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does
> anyone who has toured out there have a suggestion on what
> is preferable. I realize drop-down has more options on
> hand positions, but I've also heard most people with drop-
> downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as if
> they were straight bars.

Then they're not making use of their equipment for one
reason or another. IMHO the most common being that their
drop bars are in the usual road racer position- low and far
away. If the bars are up high enough, all positions are
comfortable and useful (although not particularly aero,
which is an issue for road racers). It's odd, probably less
than 1% of bicyclists race, yet racing bikes for road and
dirt dominate the market perception of cycling.

Personally, I hate flat bars with a passion. My hands go
numb almost immediately and having only one position (unless
bar ends are added) annoys me. When there's a stiff
headwind, I like to get down in the drops and ya can't do
that with flat bars. I was out for a calm, quite ride today
with 30+ mph winds out of the north. I spotted a large club
ride (75+ riders) broken up into groups, and noticed how
unhappy the riders on flat bars looked as they struggled
much harder into the wind than the riders with drop bars. On
days like that, flat bars are a major disadvantage. OTOH,
some people just prefer flat bars, or have back or other
problems that necessitate their use.
 
Matt,

Try this website. Great information. Great Organization.

http://www.adventurecycling.org

This one might help too.

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/

Have a great trip!

[email protected] (Matt Murphy) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi, I'm currently planning a bike trip this May to June
> through France and Italy. I want to camp while travelling
> so this means I will be travelling quite heavy (stove,
> tent, sleeping bag, etc.). I want to go about 100 km a day
> although it's possible that somedays I could go further.
> The majority of my biking experience to date is on a
> triathlon bike. I know that touring is a slower and steady
> trip but I enjoy speed on a bike and so I'm hesitant to
> use a mountain bike. However, in July I'm planning on
> going to Iceland and I'll probably bring the bike I end up
> buying which means getting something a little more solid.
> If anyone has a recommendation on a faster bike that can
> endure gravel as well I would love to hear it.
>
> Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but
> apparently it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't
> be fitted with knobby tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I
> was recommended was the Amsterdam, which is a performance
> hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale models, and the Trek
> 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or others)
> would be optimal for the uses I want.
>
> Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does
> anyone who has toured out there have a suggestion on what
> is preferable. I realize drop-down has more options on
> hand positions, but I've also heard most people with drop-
> downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as if
> they were straight bars.
>
> Any advice that touring bikers have to share would be much
> appreciated. Thanks a lot. Matt, [email protected]
 
[email protected] (Matt Murphy) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

<snip>

> Currently I have been recommended the Devinci Caribou, but
> apparently it is limited to the skinnier tires and can't
> be fitted with knobby tires, etc. The other Devinci bike I
> was recommended was the Amsterdam, which is a performance
> hybrid. I've seen a few Cannondale models, and the Trek
> 520 and XO and I am uncertain which of these (or others)
> would be optimal for the uses I want.

> Also, regarding the use of straight vs. drop-down, does
> anyone who has toured out there have a suggestion on what
> is preferable. I realize drop-down has more options on
> hand positions, but I've also heard most people with drop-
> downs just end up keeping there hands positioned as if
> they were straight bars.

Neither of the Devinci models you mention are suitable
for touring.

Take a look at the Bicycle Recommendation Short List, at
"http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec" and click on touring.

Not sure how much money you're planning to spend here, but
the Koga-Miyata is awesome.

I'd avoid the Trek 520 due to the threadless headset. I'd
avoid the Cannondale because you don't want an aluminum
frame if you want something solid for loaded touring.

You're correct about the drop versus upright bars. Yesterday
I made a point of noticing all the road bikers out on a
popular bicycling road near me (Foothill Expressway), and
even the roadies mostly keep their hands positioned as if
they were straight bars. I toured on a classic touring
bicycle and I'm sure that I rarely was in the drop position;
it's uncomfortable on your neck. Amusingly, there was once
an accessory that solved this problem; a wide mirror that
went between the handlebar sides, and acted kind of as
periscope.

Read the section on touring bicycles on
"http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec"

"Touring bikes will have a full complement of braze-ons for
racks, bottles, and pumps. Most touring bicycles have
chromolloy steel frames for durability (aluminum frames
won't stand up to the rigors of fully loaded touring). Avoid
threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this is not
that hard to do, as most touring bicycles still use quill
headsets (alas, the classic Trek 520 went over to the dark
side, as did the REI Novara Randonee). Touring bicycles will
usually have 40 spoke rear wheels (sometimes 48 spoke
wheels), to stand up to the heavier loads placed on them by
loaded panniers."

Very good advice. Especially since I wrote it.
 
"bfd" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Matt Murphy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...

> > more solid. If anyone has a recommendation on a faster
> > bike that can endure gravel as well I would love to
> > hear it.

> A few bikes you may want to look at:
>
> Rivendell Romulus:
> http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_romulusframes.html
>
> Rivendell Atlantis:
> http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_atlantisframes.html
>
> Bruce Gordon's BLT: http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html

The Rivendell's are a good choice for what he wants, "a
faster bike that can endure gravel." The Romulus is a total
classic, and at $1450 is fairly priced, though that doesn't
include saddle or pedals. I'm not a fan on bar-end shifters,
and Shimano 105 brifters add $250 if the bike shop puts them
on, $150 if you do it yourself.

For a true touring bicycle, I'd opt for the Koga-Miyata over
the BLT, because by the time you add all the accessories to
a BLT, that come standard with the the Koga-Miyata
Randonneur, you're at about the same price and the
Randonneur is more suitable for touring. The Koga-Miyata
Randonneur is heavy, but much of that is due to the racks,
kickstand, lock, dynamo hub, lights, cages, etc., which are
all included, and are included in the total weight. The
Randonneur has a lugged frame and a 40 spoke rear wheel; the
BLT has neither.
 
[email protected] (Steven Scharf) wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Read the section on touring bicycles on
> "http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec"

<snip>

> Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this is
> not that hard to do, as most touring bicycles still use
> quill headsets (alas, the classic Trek 520 went over to
> the dark side, as did the REI Novara Randonee).

Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring
bike? Will the weight of the front rack and panniers
cause problems?
 
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[email protected]>,
david moore <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] (Steven Scharf) wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Read the section on touring bicycles on
>> "http://nordicgroup.us/bikerec"
>
><snip>
>
>> Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this
>> is not that hard to do, as most touring bicycles still
>> use quill headsets (alas, the classic Trek 520 went over
>> to the dark side, as did the REI Novara Randonee).
>
>Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring bike?
>Will the weight of the front rack and panniers cause
>problems?
>

_ Yes, I don't understand this either. All I can think of is
that you can't easily adjust height on the road.

_ Booker C. Bense

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I have a tandem set up for touring, using a threadless
headset. With two people, and four fully-loaded panniers
plus additional equipment, it carries much more weight than
the average single bike ever will. Never had a problem with
the headset. In fact, I think the threadless headset is
easier to field-maintain than a threaded headset (all you
really need is a hex wrench, vs. big open-end wrenches for
the threaded headset). That being said, invest in a good
threadless headset. We have a Chris King, but there are
other less-expensive, but good ones out there.

Flat or dropped bars are largely personal preference. In
Europe, most folks ride "trekking" bikes that have flat or
riser-type bars. Dropped bars are usually considered to be
for racing or fast day rides. As far as I'm concerned,
though, dropped bars provide many more hand positions and
the ability to match your riding posture to the conditions
(wind, etc.). The key to using drop bars for touring is to
get a stem with a good amount of rise, rather than the
regular racing-type stem with a negative rise. A wider drop
bar (like 44cm) also helps. This setup gives you the best of
both worlds: a wide, flat bar surface for when you want to
sit straight up and look around, and the multiple hand
positions inherent in a drop bar. When you are riding all
day, it's key to be able to change hand positions to
alleviate numbness.

With regards to aluminum frames vs. steel, pick what feels
best. Aluminum frames, like steel frames, have been ridden
hundreds of thousands of miles around the world. My
Cannondale T700 touring bike is ten years old and a veteran
of many tours. Never a problem, and it rides great with and
without bags (I actually think it handles better with a
load, a trait of good touring frames).

> [email protected] (Steven Scharf) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
> > Avoid threadless headsets on touring bicycles, but this
> > is not that hard to do, as most touring bicycles still
> > use quill headsets (alas, the classic Trek 520 went over
> > to the dark side, as did the REI Novara Randonee).
>
> Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring
> bike? Will the weight of the front rack and panniers cause
> problems?
 
Somebody wrote:
>>Why should one avoid threadless headsets on a touring
>>bike? Will the weight of the front rack and panniers cause
>>problems?
On Tue, 6 Apr 2004 15:01:41 +0000 (UTC), <bbense+rec.bicycl-
[email protected]> wrote:
>_ Yes, I don't understand this either. All I can think of
>is that you can't easily adjust height on the road.

Actually, that's not even an issue. A single allen wrench
combined with some repositioning of spacers and/or flipping
of stem takes care of it easily.

Servicing/adjusting the headset is easier, same allen wrench
is all that's necessary...and I suspect most people set the
height once and leave it, but some may need to adjust the
headset later, especially on a tour.

Creative handlebar height options good for tourers who need
constant height changes:
- Adjustable stem
- Threadless stem height extension
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?&sku=4264
- Threadless adapter in threaded headset (best of all
worlds and some extra height too) http://www.performanc-
ebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=1594
--
Rick Onanian
 
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