M
Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
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B
bfd
Guest
On Apr 16, 12:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> What would you go for and why?
Define "touring?" Are you going to be "touring" out in the jungles of
South America, Africa or Western China by yourself? Or are you doing
*credit card* touring where a van follows you and you're sleeping
every nite in a different hotel. Depending on how you travel may make
a big difference in ones choice.
> What would you go for and why?
Define "touring?" Are you going to be "touring" out in the jungles of
South America, Africa or Western China by yourself? Or are you doing
*credit card* touring where a van follows you and you're sleeping
every nite in a different hotel. Depending on how you travel may make
a big difference in ones choice.
O
Ozark Bicycle
Guest
On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> What would you go for and why?
I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
(e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
want to use a friction *only* shifter??
> What would you go for and why?
I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
(e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
want to use a friction *only* shifter??
B
bfd
Guest
On Apr 16, 1:33 pm, Ozark Bicycle
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What would you go for and why?
>
> I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
> (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
> whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
> want to use a friction *only* shifter??
Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What would you go for and why?
>
> I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
> (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
> whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
> want to use a friction *only* shifter??
Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
M
bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
>Define "touring?" Are you going to be "touring" out in the jungles of
>South America, Africa or Western China by yourself? Or are you doing
>*credit card* touring where a van follows you and you're sleeping
>every nite in a different hotel. Depending on how you travel may make
>a big difference in ones choice.
More like credit card touring in the USA..... but still
wanting little chance of breakdown and complexity cause
I don't like to mess with things as they always break
at worst time such as at 2am or during a thunderstorm
while standing outside in it
>Define "touring?" Are you going to be "touring" out in the jungles of
>South America, Africa or Western China by yourself? Or are you doing
>*credit card* touring where a van follows you and you're sleeping
>every nite in a different hotel. Depending on how you travel may make
>a big difference in ones choice.
More like credit card touring in the USA..... but still
wanting little chance of breakdown and complexity cause
I don't like to mess with things as they always break
at worst time such as at 2am or during a thunderstorm
while standing outside in it
M
Ozark Bicycle <[email protected]>
wrote:
> But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
>want to use a friction *only* shifter??
Well as I've aid in other posts I haven't been in
cycling for many years so NOT up on the equip available
today.
Maybe they don't even exist anymore? I don't know...do
they?
So maybe my question should be.... what OPTIONS do I
HAVE for shifter and systems now days?
wrote:
> But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
>want to use a friction *only* shifter??
Well as I've aid in other posts I haven't been in
cycling for many years so NOT up on the equip available
today.
Maybe they don't even exist anymore? I don't know...do
they?
So maybe my question should be.... what OPTIONS do I
HAVE for shifter and systems now days?
M
bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
>Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
>http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
"meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
that.... and it does irritate me.
However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
make that small adjustment so that it was.
See my point?
Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
available or desirable? tell me ok?
>Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
>http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
"meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
that.... and it does irritate me.
However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
make that small adjustment so that it was.
See my point?
Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
available or desirable? tell me ok?
L
landotter
Guest
On Apr 16, 3:33 pm, Ozark Bicycle
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What would you go for and why?
>
> I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
> (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
> whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
> want to use a friction *only* shifter??
I used to run my 6spd 105 group friction for the silence. The feedback
both from the dt levers and aurally made the SIS detents superfluous.
When you get up to 8 speed rear clusters, that's when I find that
click shift makes a big difference in accuracy, but when your dt lever
just has six positions--your muscle memory remembers it pretty quick--
there's no other way that I could have enjoyed my Shogun mtb with
"upgraded" Suntour friction thumbies back in the day, heh. I do love
shifting 6-7 speed dt's, it feels so natural the way the lever slides
in your fingers just so...but I don't support the Hobbits doing the
same with 9 or 10 speed. That's just out of hand!
For touring, if I had a choice, I'd run an 8speed rear with either bar-
ends on some classic Nittos, or the same shifters on stairclimber bars
via some Paul's thumbies. It's really not that important. If your
shifter breaks in the middle of nowhere, just set your derailleur with
the limit screws to your preferred gear and hobble on--you'll still
have three gears!
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What would you go for and why?
>
> I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
> (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
> whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
> want to use a friction *only* shifter??
I used to run my 6spd 105 group friction for the silence. The feedback
both from the dt levers and aurally made the SIS detents superfluous.
When you get up to 8 speed rear clusters, that's when I find that
click shift makes a big difference in accuracy, but when your dt lever
just has six positions--your muscle memory remembers it pretty quick--
there's no other way that I could have enjoyed my Shogun mtb with
"upgraded" Suntour friction thumbies back in the day, heh. I do love
shifting 6-7 speed dt's, it feels so natural the way the lever slides
in your fingers just so...but I don't support the Hobbits doing the
same with 9 or 10 speed. That's just out of hand!
For touring, if I had a choice, I'd run an 8speed rear with either bar-
ends on some classic Nittos, or the same shifters on stairclimber bars
via some Paul's thumbies. It's really not that important. If your
shifter breaks in the middle of nowhere, just set your derailleur with
the limit screws to your preferred gear and hobble on--you'll still
have three gears!
B
bfd
Guest
On Apr 16, 2:03 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
>
> One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
> bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
> alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
> "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
> quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
> that.... and it does irritate me.
>
> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>
Try adjusting the barrel adjuster behind the rear der. Turning it like
1/4 turn clockwise until the chain runs smoothly.
> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
> available or desirable? tell me ok?
If you really must have friction shifters, Rivs got em:
http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/shifters_and_derailers#product=none
> bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
>
> One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
> bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
> alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
> "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
> quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
> that.... and it does irritate me.
>
> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>
Try adjusting the barrel adjuster behind the rear der. Turning it like
1/4 turn clockwise until the chain runs smoothly.
> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
> available or desirable? tell me ok?
If you really must have friction shifters, Rivs got em:
http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/shifters_and_derailers#product=none
L
landotter
Guest
On Apr 16, 4:03 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
>
> One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
> bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
> alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
> "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
> quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
> that.... and it does irritate me.
The gears aren't adjusted right. If you ever notice that, shouldn't
take more than a minute at the side of the road to adjust with the
barrel adjuster.
>
> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>
> See my point?
Not really. After the cables bed in, a bike should shift perfectly
indefinitely.
>
> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
> available or desirable? tell me ok?
It's available if you want it. Ultegra bar-end shifters are switchable
to friction or index, best of both worlds. About $70.
> bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
>
> One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
> bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
> alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
> "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
> quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
> that.... and it does irritate me.
The gears aren't adjusted right. If you ever notice that, shouldn't
take more than a minute at the side of the road to adjust with the
barrel adjuster.
>
> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>
> See my point?
Not really. After the cables bed in, a bike should shift perfectly
indefinitely.
>
> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
> available or desirable? tell me ok?
It's available if you want it. Ultegra bar-end shifters are switchable
to friction or index, best of both worlds. About $70.
V
Victor Kan
Guest
On Apr 16, 4:59 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> So maybe my question should be.... what OPTIONS do I
> HAVE for shifter and systems now days?
Friction-only or indexing-optional shifters do still exist (as others
have pointed out already), and many index-only shifters have some
amount of trim, at least for the front derailleur. For the latter,
you may have to stick with mid level and above lines (like Shimano's
10 speed 105 combo brake lever/shifters).
> So maybe my question should be.... what OPTIONS do I
> HAVE for shifter and systems now days?
Friction-only or indexing-optional shifters do still exist (as others
have pointed out already), and many index-only shifters have some
amount of trim, at least for the front derailleur. For the latter,
you may have to stick with mid level and above lines (like Shimano's
10 speed 105 combo brake lever/shifters).
M
bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
>> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
>> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
>> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
>> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>>
>Try adjusting the barrel adjuster behind the rear der. Turning it like
>1/4 turn clockwise until the chain runs smoothly.
How can I reach that while riding tho?
>> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
>> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
>> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
>> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>>
>Try adjusting the barrel adjuster behind the rear der. Turning it like
>1/4 turn clockwise until the chain runs smoothly.
How can I reach that while riding tho?
M
landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
>> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
>> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
>> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
>> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>>
>> See my point?
>
>Not really. After the cables bed in, a bike should shift perfectly
>indefinitely.
OK
>> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
>> available or desirable? tell me ok?
>
>It's available if you want it. Ultegra bar-end shifters are switchable
>to friction or index, best of both worlds. About $70.
Cool!
>> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
>> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
>> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
>> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>>
>> See my point?
>
>Not really. After the cables bed in, a bike should shift perfectly
>indefinitely.
OK
>> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
>> available or desirable? tell me ok?
>
>It's available if you want it. Ultegra bar-end shifters are switchable
>to friction or index, best of both worlds. About $70.
Cool!
W
Woland99
Guest
On Apr 16, 4:03 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
>
> One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
> bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
> alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
> "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
> quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
> that.... and it does irritate me.
>
> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>
> See my point?
>
> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
> available or desirable? tell me ok?
I had some problems with Randonee shifting - turned out that
rear derailer was out of plane of the wheel (not sure how to
describe it better). REI mechanic fixed it. REI says that you
should bring bike back for adjustment after 100-200 miles when
cable will stretch. As far index/friction shifters - I think that
Surly LHT has an option to switch between the two - also it has
bar-end shifters (one of the reason I did not like it but it may
work for you). I still like my Randonee - but I think I should try
to learn how to adjust derailers myself - it seems that without that
knowledge I will be at REI quite often.
> bfd <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again:
>
> >http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting
>
> One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I
> bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in
> alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes
> "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to
> quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate
> that.... and it does irritate me.
>
> However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike
> and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting.....
> and when things were not quite aligned I could manually
> make that small adjustment so that it was.
>
> See my point?
>
> Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer
> available or desirable? tell me ok?
I had some problems with Randonee shifting - turned out that
rear derailer was out of plane of the wheel (not sure how to
describe it better). REI mechanic fixed it. REI says that you
should bring bike back for adjustment after 100-200 miles when
cable will stretch. As far index/friction shifters - I think that
Surly LHT has an option to switch between the two - also it has
bar-end shifters (one of the reason I did not like it but it may
work for you). I still like my Randonee - but I think I should try
to learn how to adjust derailers myself - it seems that without that
knowledge I will be at REI quite often.
B
Bill Taylor
Guest
I recommend barcons with index shifting. I have a Suntour 7spd
Accushift setup, 135mm rear, the wheel is hardly dished and therefore
quite stout. I use a KMC chain, Suntour der and freewheel, no problems
in thousands of miles. They are revertable to friction, but so far
haven't needed that. You should look at Sheldon Browns website, he has
some recommendations which boil down to strong and reliable.
BT
Accushift setup, 135mm rear, the wheel is hardly dished and therefore
quite stout. I use a KMC chain, Suntour der and freewheel, no problems
in thousands of miles. They are revertable to friction, but so far
haven't needed that. You should look at Sheldon Browns website, he has
some recommendations which boil down to strong and reliable.
BT
T
Tom Sherman
Guest
Ozark Bicycle wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> What would you go for and why?
>
> I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
> (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
> whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
> want to use a friction *only* shifter??
Friction only works better on the front, especially when the front
derailer is in one's normal field of view, and non-standard size
chainrings are used. The SRAM Grip-Shift with about 9 clicks is not too
bad either, since it allows for easy "trimming". Three position only
Rabidfire (sic) shifters are a pain for anything but standard ATB cranksets.
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> What would you go for and why?
>
> I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option*
> (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties
> whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit,
> want to use a friction *only* shifter??
Friction only works better on the front, especially when the front
derailer is in one's normal field of view, and non-standard size
chainrings are used. The SRAM Grip-Shift with about 9 clicks is not too
bad either, since it allows for easy "trimming". Three position only
Rabidfire (sic) shifters are a pain for anything but standard ATB cranksets.
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
J
Jay Beattie
Guest
On Apr 16, 12:28 pm, landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What would you go for and why?
>
> Doesn't matter much. If I found an old Miyata in my size, I'd ride
> coast to coast happily on a 7spd freewheel with friction shifters. Or
> not. If I found some 7spd bar-ends I'd use those, and if I got bored
> in Missouri, I'd switch them to friction to have something to do.
> Alternately, if I got a really sweet deal on a new bike with brifters
> and a 9spd rear cluster--that'd work fine as well. More important is
> that the frame is right, I got good heel clearance, and the thing
> handles nice and stable, so I can take downhill naps.
I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has
never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index
bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so
used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were
outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/
Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a
two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie.
> On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What would you go for and why?
>
> Doesn't matter much. If I found an old Miyata in my size, I'd ride
> coast to coast happily on a 7spd freewheel with friction shifters. Or
> not. If I found some 7spd bar-ends I'd use those, and if I got bored
> in Missouri, I'd switch them to friction to have something to do.
> Alternately, if I got a really sweet deal on a new bike with brifters
> and a 9spd rear cluster--that'd work fine as well. More important is
> that the frame is right, I got good heel clearance, and the thing
> handles nice and stable, so I can take downhill naps.
I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has
never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index
bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so
used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were
outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/
Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a
two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie.
S
still just me
Guest
On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 21:33:36 -0700 (PDT), Jay Beattie
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
>and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has
>never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index
>bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so
>used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were
>outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/
>Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a
>two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie.
Real men like a little friction!
That said, and noting that my bikes are all retro-grouch friction, if
I was riding cross country I would likely choose something that I
could find replacement parts for in the majority of modern shops.
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
>and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has
>never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index
>bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so
>used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were
>outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/
>Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a
>two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie.
Real men like a little friction!
That said, and noting that my bikes are all retro-grouch friction, if
I was riding cross country I would likely choose something that I
could find replacement parts for in the majority of modern shops.
R
Ryan Cousineau
Guest
In article
<[email protected]>,
Jay Beattie <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 12:28 pm, landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > > What would you go for and why?
> >
> > Doesn't matter much. If I found an old Miyata in my size, I'd ride
> > coast to coast happily on a 7spd freewheel with friction shifters. Or
> > not. If I found some 7spd bar-ends I'd use those, and if I got bored
> > in Missouri, I'd switch them to friction to have something to do.
> > Alternately, if I got a really sweet deal on a new bike with brifters
> > and a 9spd rear cluster--that'd work fine as well. More important is
> > that the frame is right, I got good heel clearance, and the thing
> > handles nice and stable, so I can take downhill naps.
>
> I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
> and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has
> never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index
> bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so
> used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were
> outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/
> Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a
> two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie.
If I may make the contrary case, I enthusiastically race road bikes and
MTBs with various indexed drivetrains (Campy and Shimano 9 on the road,
XT 8-speed on the MTB). It's great.
But my daily commute is committed on a very boring Miyata 210 tourer
with a 5-speed rear cluster (14-26? 14-28? I have no idea) and a triple
up front. It also gets mileage as my winter training bike (fenders).
I don't really miss indexing on that bike.
Experiments with other non-indexed bikes have suggested that
friction-shifting a 7-speed cluster, even with Hyperglide teeth, is
mildly tricky. I'd prefer to use a 6-speed cluster on a
friction-shifting bike, though the Mega-7 freewheels might tip the
balance in a particular application owing to their bail-out cog and nice
internals.
All things being equal, the shifting doesn't matter. On a dedicated
tourer, I would opt for a skookum rear hub and axle (that seems to mean
Deore-to-XT as a mainstream choice), then pick gears to match the
application, then grab whatever shifter worked and was at hand.
That's my long-winded way of saying that the shifting method on a tourer
hardly matters (among likely means) and is largely a matter of taste.
--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing
<[email protected]>,
Jay Beattie <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 16, 12:28 pm, landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > > What would you go for and why?
> >
> > Doesn't matter much. If I found an old Miyata in my size, I'd ride
> > coast to coast happily on a 7spd freewheel with friction shifters. Or
> > not. If I found some 7spd bar-ends I'd use those, and if I got bored
> > in Missouri, I'd switch them to friction to have something to do.
> > Alternately, if I got a really sweet deal on a new bike with brifters
> > and a 9spd rear cluster--that'd work fine as well. More important is
> > that the frame is right, I got good heel clearance, and the thing
> > handles nice and stable, so I can take downhill naps.
>
> I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
> and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has
> never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index
> bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so
> used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were
> outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/
> Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a
> two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie.
If I may make the contrary case, I enthusiastically race road bikes and
MTBs with various indexed drivetrains (Campy and Shimano 9 on the road,
XT 8-speed on the MTB). It's great.
But my daily commute is committed on a very boring Miyata 210 tourer
with a 5-speed rear cluster (14-26? 14-28? I have no idea) and a triple
up front. It also gets mileage as my winter training bike (fenders).
I don't really miss indexing on that bike.
Experiments with other non-indexed bikes have suggested that
friction-shifting a 7-speed cluster, even with Hyperglide teeth, is
mildly tricky. I'd prefer to use a 6-speed cluster on a
friction-shifting bike, though the Mega-7 freewheels might tip the
balance in a particular application owing to their bail-out cog and nice
internals.
All things being equal, the shifting doesn't matter. On a dedicated
tourer, I would opt for a skookum rear hub and axle (that seems to mean
Deore-to-XT as a mainstream choice), then pick gears to match the
application, then grab whatever shifter worked and was at hand.
That's my long-winded way of saying that the shifting method on a tourer
hardly matters (among likely means) and is largely a matter of taste.
--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing
T
Tim McNamara
Guest
In article
<[email protected]>,
Jay Beattie <[email protected]> wrote:
> I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
> and I much prefer my modern STI.
Tastes are different. I adopted STI in 1992 and then switched to Ergo
because I didn't like STI's laterally moving brake lever. I used those
through 2005 when I went back to downtube friction shifting on my bikes.
I just like it better. It's nice there are options.
<[email protected]>,
Jay Beattie <[email protected]> wrote:
> I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters --
> and I much prefer my modern STI.
Tastes are different. I adopted STI in 1992 and then switched to Ergo
because I didn't like STI's laterally moving brake lever. I used those
through 2005 when I went back to downtube friction shifting on my bikes.
I just like it better. It's nice there are options.
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