Touring vs. Road



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"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:F%[email protected]...
> "Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > Ignore all the **** about this and that wonder material. Steel bikes
are
> > excellent values and are generally repairable. Carbon and Titanium are inordinately expensive
>
> Not that I'm recommending this particular frame for this purpose, but titanium frames have come
> down in price.
>
> http://www.titaniumsports.com/
>
> http://www.habcycles.com/
>
> The Habenaro custom frames are as cost effective as a Rivendell
Rambouillet
> and it wouldn't surprise me if Mark can duplicate the geometry in a
custom.
>
> Heron is also currently working on a titanium version as well,
>

You are correct but you must compare a Chinese made Reynolds 853 bike (like a KHS) with the Ti bike
like the Habanero. How about the Surly Pacer ($399 frame/fork)?

Mark Hickey must have some insight on this.

Can y'all believe Waterford ("The Ride") is welding Titanium? I find it hard to believe that a Ti
Heron will cost less than a Gunnar, despite the fact that prices are coming down.

--
Robin Hubert <[email protected]
 
> I am shopping for a new bike and I'd like to get some opinions. I already have a mountain bike
> (Trek 6500) with some hybrid accents (upgraded Shimano gearing & slick tires), so I am looking for
> a road/touring bike. I am a 'big & tall' guy: 6'4" and 240lbs. (my mountain bike has suspension
> seatpost and fork) I am looking for something under $1500 that rides well and is comfortable.
> Those are my priorities.
>
> I have had some people say: 'get a chromoly frame, because it is more forgiving, and therefore
> more comfortable' and yet others say 'get an aluminum because the carbon fiber or chromoly will
> flex too much and you'll throw the chain a lot'. One pro shop recommended a road bike - the Trek
> 1200c. Another pro shop recommended a touring bike - a Giant OCR Touring. Given my weight, the
> touring bike was recommended because of the wider tires, longer wheel base, and sitting more
> upright helps my back.
>
> The reason I am looking for a new bike is due to riding more. I love riding my mountain bike on
> gravel trails where I live. But I rode in a 50 mile charity ride this weekend on my mountain bike.
> I kept up with my team, but it was hard work. I am riding with the same team in a 150 mile ride in
> 2 months. As I get more involved in long rides, the road/touring bike will get used more and more.
> I want to hae the new bike for the 150 mile ride. What do people think?

At 6'4 and 240lbs, tire choice is going to be a significant factor; I'd recommend something that
will take 28c tires if possible. Some riders of your "sturdiness" can manage with 25c, but your
margin of error is small... you'd need to be religious about tire pressure (full rated pressure at
all times, check before every single ride, and not with your thumb!!!).

Many aluminum frames aren't going to have the required clearance for the larger tires, due to the
larger diameter of the chainstays. A classic touring bike, like the TREK 520, will most definitely
accommodate such large tires however, and easily handle century rides. You could also use most
CycloCross bikes; we often set up TREK XO1s with road tires for such purposes.

A true touring bike will not have you sitting more upright, however. The most comfortable position
for long rides is to have some weight on your hands, as opposed to all of it on your tail end (as
happens when you get too upright). A good shop will make sure you're comfortable in terms of weight
distribution and not so stretched out you're having flexibility problems. Fortunately, most modern
bikes come with stems that have removable face plates, so they can be changed out very easily. If
you were one of our customers, we might start you off with a fairly short stem (so you can initially
be fairly upright) and then, as you get used to things, replace it with slightly longer stems until
you get to the point where you'll be less saddle sore but also comfortable with the reach.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
 
i just bought on e-bay a schwinn giant world road bike in excellent condition, with 27" tires and
35" standover height, steel frame, with the rest being primarily aluminum components, for....now get
this...$83 (which included the shipping & insurance)

the cheapest bike in my size the bike shop had was $549

i should easily be able to resell the $83 bike later for $100 or more, if i decided i didn't like
it for whatever reason, but seeing the post about bikes priced at $1,500 increases the appeal of
an $83 bike

"David L. Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 03 Jun 2003 08:51:42 +0000, Mark Henke wrote:
>
> By the way, I disagree with the advice to go to e-bay. You need to be fit to your bike. That is
> what a good bike shop will do (insist on it -- and not just stand-over-the-bar nonsense, either),
> but on e-bay? If you know what size you need, and know what you are getting, it could be a
> bargain. It can also be a rip-off.
>
> --
>
> David L. Johnson
>
> __o | It doesn't get any easier, you just go faster. --Greg LeMond _`\(,_ | (_)/ (_) |
 
"Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:F%[email protected]...
>> "Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message

>> Not that I'm recommending this particular frame for this purpose, but titanium frames have come
>> down in price.
>>
>> http://www.titaniumsports.com/
>>
>> http://www.habcycles.com/
>>
>> The Habenaro custom frames are as cost effective as a Rivendell
>Rambouillet
>> and it wouldn't surprise me if Mark can duplicate the geometry in a
>custom.
>>
>> Heron is also currently working on a titanium version as well,
>
>You are correct but you must compare a Chinese made Reynolds 853 bike (like a KHS) with the Ti bike
>like the Habanero. How about the Surly Pacer ($399 frame/fork)?
>
>Mark Hickey must have some insight on this.

I think the comparison is a fair one. Certainly a ti frame (all other things being equal) will be
more expensive than a steel frame - or should be (they're not always). I've done several
"Rivendellish" frames over the years, mainly for people looking for that "ultimate last bike". One
even was set up for the Rohloff internally geared hub (oh, the joys of a custom bike...).

>Can y'all believe Waterford ("The Ride") is welding Titanium?

Yep.

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame
 
"Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:F%[email protected]...
> > "Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > > Ignore all the **** about this and that wonder material. Steel bikes
> are
> > > excellent values and are generally repairable. Carbon and Titanium are inordinately expensive
> >
> > Not that I'm recommending this particular frame for this purpose, but titanium frames have come
> > down in price.
> >
> > http://www.titaniumsports.com/
> >
> > http://www.habcycles.com/
> >
> > The Habenaro custom frames are as cost effective as a Rivendell
> Rambouillet
> > and it wouldn't surprise me if Mark can duplicate the geometry in a
> custom.
> >
> > Heron is also currently working on a titanium version as well,
> >
>
> You are correct but you must compare a Chinese made Reynolds 853 bike (like a KHS) with the Ti
> bike like the Habanero. How about the Surly Pacer ($399 frame/fork)?
>
> Mark Hickey must have some insight on this.
>
> Can y'all believe Waterford ("The Ride") is welding Titanium?

Yow, I bet that's not cheap? What does a Waterford ti frame go for?...
 
bfd wrote:

>>Can y'all believe Waterford ("The Ride") is welding Titanium?
>
> Yow, I bet that's not cheap? What does a Waterford ti frame go for?...

So far, Waterford has only built one prototype titanium Heron for me. As far as I know, they aren't
looking to market a ti frame under their own name.

Todd Kuzma Heron Bicycles LaSalle, Il 815-223-1776 http://www.heronbicycles.com
 
On Wed, 04 Jun 2003 09:16:53 -0400, Pbwalther wrote:

> However, I touring bike would not give you the performance that a road bike would. It will have a
> longer wheel base, lower gearing (for climbing hills whilst carrying a potload of gear), bigger
> tires, heavier wheels (not a bad thing for a big rider though).

you ought to define what you mean by "performance", since you assert performance superiority for the
"road bike" -- by which we are to understand "road racing" bike. it's quite possible that when you
do, the OP may decide he means something quite different by "performance", and just possibly the
road racer's performance by that standard could be decidedly inferior.
 
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> "Pbwalther" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > Don't get me wrong, a touring bike will give you more performance then
> your
> > current ride. And touring bikes have very nice forgiving rides.
>
> Depends.
>
> A well designed tourer will have beefier tubing and a heavier fork. The result is the un-loaded
> ride can often be harsher then a road racing machine with skinny tires, if only due to the tubing
> used. My Miyata City Liner is a case in point in that even with an Avocet Cross 28mm tire at 90
> psi, it has a very stiff fork that transmits a good deal more shock then the carbon fork on my
> Lemond or the lighter steel fork on my Heron.
>
> Steve B.

I am hardly an expert, but I think this all depends on the bike. My current stable includes a
recumbent bike, trike a hybrid and an Atlantis. The hybrid doesn't get road much because it is
the sort of uncomforable that drives people to recuments in the first place. The Atlantis on the
other hand is bliss, almost as comfortable as my recumbents, easy riding, manuverable (maybe not
pack manuverable, but good enough for me), it climbs well and I have been very pleased with it
since I got it.

If I was buying today, I would certainly look at the Romulous (or Redwood, not sure what the size
point is where you need the larger bike).

--
Bill
 
On Wed, 04 Jun 2003 14:04:21 +0000, Steve wrote:

> The Habenaro custom frames are as cost effective as a Rivendell
Rambouillet

More so.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | You will say Christ saith this and the apostles say this; but _`\(,_ | what canst thou say?
-- George Fox. (_)/ (_) |
 
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...

> You probably want to look into a "sport tourer" - Specialized Sequoia being typical of the type.
> Triple chainring, more relaxed geometry, etc... Just stay away from the "boutique" wheels so
> common these days with 24 or so spokes.

I have to agree with this. I have a Serotta Rapid Tour that I've been riding for about a year now,
and I have to say that it is just about the ideal bike for most of my road riding. It is a little
out of your price range, but the Cannondale T2000 was second on my list, and has similar components
to what I speced out. Also, the frame is just about the same weight, IIRC.
 
>"effi" [email protected]

wrote:

>another thing you could do is go to www.ebay.com , select smart search, put in road bike then
>specify the price range you want, like $0 to $200, or whatever, then search

Gee, you wouldn't be selling any bikes on ebay now would you?
 
>"Mike Jacoubowsky" [email protected]

wrote in part:

>you'd need to be religious about tire pressure (full rated pressure at all times, check before
>every single ride, and not with your thumb!!!).

I've read similiar advice to this countless times and have always assumed it was meant as a joke.
Checking tire pressure with the gauge on my floor pump is part of the pre-ride ritual I do before
*every* ride. I've forgotten to fill water bottles and left my gloves on the shelf but neglect to
check tire pressures and QR levers? Never. So now I'm curious.... How often do those here check
tire pressure?

Regards, Bob Hunt
 
On 05 Jun 2003 06:06:19 GMT, [email protected] (Hunrobe) wrote:

>I've read similiar advice to this countless times and have always assumed it was meant as a joke.
>Checking tire pressure with the gauge on my floor pump is part of the pre-ride ritual I do before
>*every* ride. I've forgotten to fill water bottles and left my gloves on the shelf but neglect to
>check tire pressures and QR levers? Never. So now I'm curious.... How often do those here check
>tire pressure?

Depends on the bike and the use. For my near daily trips into town, a few kilometers each way, I
pump when I notice I'm hitting the rim on bumps, every other week or so.

Jasper
 
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >"Mike Jacoubowsky" [email protected]
>
> wrote in part:
>
> >you'd need to be religious about tire pressure (full rated pressure at all times, check before
> >every single ride, and not with your thumb!!!).
>
> I've read similiar advice to this countless times and have always assumed it was meant as a joke.
> Checking tire pressure with the gauge on my floor pump is part of the pre-ride ritual I do before
> *every* ride. I've forgotten to fill water bottles and left my gloves on the shelf but neglect to
> check tire pressures and QR levers? Never. So now I'm curious.... How often do those here check
> tire pressure?

Me? Before every ride, though sometimes just by squeezing the tire with my fingers (they're only
80psi tires, though).

--
David Kerber An optimist says "Good morning, Lord." While a pessimist says "Good Lord,
it's morning".

Remove the ns_ from the address before e-mailing.
 
I am very confused now. I went back to the first bike shop last night and the sales person there was
pushing a Canondale T800 very hard. They also had a '97 Canondale T1000 and still had it marked at
$1700. I think the reason they were pusing the T800 is that they don't want to get stuck with it
like the T1000. The frame is the 'jumbo' size, and I'm sure they don't have many people look at it.
When they showed it to me, they had to get it out from the back.

I'm starting to have second thoughts about my budget. I probably ride a total of 800-1000 miles a
year. Should I spend $1500 on a bike I'm not going to use that often? The T800 was very nice, but
expensive. I paid $600 for my Trek 6500 I purchased 5 years ago. Do people think I should be able to
get as nice a bike for $800-$900?
 
Hunrobe wrote:

> I've read similiar advice to this countless times and have always assumed it was meant as a joke.
> Checking tire pressure with the gauge on my floor pump is part of the pre-ride ritual I do before
> *every* ride. I've forgotten to fill water bottles and left my gloves on the shelf but neglect to
> check tire pressures and QR levers? Never. So now I'm curious.... How often do those here check
> tire pressure?

I currently have two bikes in commuting/joy riding service and both get topped off for tire pressure
at the start of the week, Monday morning.

I've noticed the touring bike with 32mm Conti Top Touring tires is pretty much at 80 psi, max psi
for that tire. I think I could go two weeks without it changing much.

However the 25mm tires on the Trek 2000 are down substantially from their 115-120 rating; probably
about 90 psi. During last year's RAGBRAI, I started the day's ride by pumping the tires up to 115
psi spec. IIRC, they were typically near 100 by the following morning.

I guess it makes sense that a high pressure tire would tend to lose pressure at a higher rate than a
low psi tire. Probably lots of variability depending on make and size of tube.

SMH
 
"Hunrobe" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:20030605020619.07705.00000033@mb-> >"Mike
Jacoubowsky" [email protected]
>
> wrote in part:
>
> >you'd need to be religious about tire pressure (full rated pressure at
all
> >times, check before every single ride, and not with your thumb!!!).
>
> I've read similiar advice to this countless times and have always assumed
it
> was meant as a joke. Checking tire pressure with the gauge on my floor
pump is
> part of the pre-ride ritual I do before *every* ride. I've forgotten to
fill
> water bottles and left my gloves on the shelf but neglect to check tire pressures and QR levers?
> Never. So now I'm curious.... How often do those here check tire pressure?
>
> Regards, Bob Hunt

I'm with Jasper, it depends on the bike and the ride. My road bike which wants 120PSI gets a fill
before every ride, usually once or twice a week. The workhorse rigid mountain bike with slicks
(80PSI) gets checked when the tires start to feel soft, not quite once a week, but not more than
every other week. All of the others get checked before every ride simply because some are ridden
once a week, others once a month.

-Buck
 
[email protected] (Mark Henke) wrote:

> I'm starting to have second thoughts about my budget. I probably ride a total of 800-1000 miles a
> year. Should I spend $1500 on a bike I'm not going to use that often? The T800 was very nice, but
> expensive. I paid $600 for my Trek 6500 I purchased 5 years ago. Do people think I should be able
> to get as nice a bike for $800-$900?

Yes. Jamis Aurora, if you don't mind Sora. I don't, and love the bike. I ride considerably more than
1000 miles/year (or I do when I'm riding).

--
z e l d a b e e @ p a n i x . c o m http://NewsReader.Com/
 
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