Just in case Lindsay gets the idea that he's the only one 'round here
doing any walking ! ;-)
About 12 years ago, Jane and I did our first backpack through the
highlands. We got off the train at Achnashellach and spent a pleasant
evening camped by the loch and the following day struck off north
into the hills for our first encounter with the Coire Lair. What an
amazing place it was too. Last week we finally got to go back and set
off from near the station to climb Beinn Liath Mhor.
There had been a few changes to the landscape since we were last
there. The pine and gorse on the lower slopes were perhaps a bit
more bushy than last time, the path had been diverted slightly and
higher up much of the track up to the lip of the coire is now pitched.
As we climbed, the cliffs of the corbett Fuar Tholl towered over us.
Beinn Liath Mhor came into view and then climbing over the last of
the glacial smooth rock steps were emerged into the jumble of
terminal morains of the coire with a splendid view into a harsh
landscape surrounded by towering peaks still climging to the last of
thier winter raiments. Fuar Tholl and Beinn Liath Mhor being joined
by the view of the final member of the trio of hills, the munro Sgorr
Ruadh. A full day in the hills would take you over all three hills but
we only had one in mind today. The fine, slender elegance of Beinn
Liath Mhor.
All three hills are served by a brilliant network of well-maintained
stalkers paths so we quickly reached the start of the SMC
recommended ascent and inevitably discovered that the suggested route
had already been carved indelibly into the landscape by ten thousand
pairs of feet before us. The route was by no means simple, however,
and we found ourselves scrambling steeply up a path that was by turns
stony, bouldery and peat soup until breaking the back of the hardest
section at about 600m we started ascending a slightly gentler and more
heathery angle. Meeting the snow line, however, did present a few
problems as at this level the snow had reached that awkward, buttery
state where it turns even the gentlest slope into a slippery, skittery
challenge. Further altitude and it started to revert to its more solid,
predictable state and we were soon kicking steps to gain the first,
easternmost top at 872m. Between us and the real summit, however,
was a mile of fabulous snow-crusted ridge line with a gentle roller-
coaster profile. Not that the show was limited to the hill we were on.
With not a single breath of wind we were dazzled by the spectacle of
the Torridon hills in stunning spring snow. Gleefully we crunched our
way along the top of the hill, gawping continually at the visual feast
offered. We were entertained on one of the mid-ridge pinnacles by a
Ptarmigan, that turned up in less than whiter than white plumage but less
than an hour after leaving the eastern end of the ridge we kicked our final
steps to the summit cairn at 925m and celebrated with a hard-earned
cuppa.
The plan from here was to descend the western flank to the Bealach
Coire Lair but the buttery snow combined with some treacherous
bluffs on the lower slopes to make it a hairy experience. I really really
would not want to have to descend this route in conditions any more
dodgy than those endured. The stalkers path was eventually regained
however at about 500m and we trundled back down through the coire
in the evening sun. Shattered, with thighs burning but with a bagful of
fabulous memories and photos. The rumble of an avalanche falling from
Sgorr Ruadh reminded us that we'd only really done half a job and that
there were two other hills waiting to be bagged but I'm sure they'll still
be there next time we return to the wonderful Coire Lair.
Chris
--
Chris Gilbert Art and Photography
www.whirleygig.co.uk/~cgilbert