Trailer Puller - hub gears -advice needed

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Priorpark17, Jan 31, 2003.

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  1. Priorpark17

    Priorpark17 Guest

    When I am pulling my two children uphill I am on 24Front/28rear giving a gain ratio of 1.7. I am now
    looking at hub gears for their ease of maintanence. According to Sheldons calculator I need a nexus
    7 speed with a 30ish front and a 24 rear.Is this feasable? Does anyone have experience of pulling
    trailers with hub gears?
     
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  2. Bill Putnam

    Bill Putnam Guest

    [email protected] (PRIORPARK17) wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > When I am pulling my two children uphill I am on 24Front/28rear giving a gain ratio of 1.7. I am
    > now looking at hub gears for their ease of maintanence. According to Sheldons calculator I need a
    > nexus 7 speed with a 30ish front and a 24 rear.Is this feasable? Does anyone have experience of
    > pulling trailers with hub gears?

    I use an old Sturmey Archer S5.2 5 speed internal gear hub with a
    42/24 combination giving a gain ratio of 2.3 while pulling my two children (40 lbs and 30 lbs
    respectively) in a trailer. I've used this hub for daily commuting and occasional trailer pulling
    for more than 10 years without any problem, however for pulling this much weight up hills a lower
    gear would be nice. The general recommendation from Sturmey for min chainring/cog size is 2 and
    42/24 is slightly below that, but I've used a 34/24 combination on other bikes without any
    problems with the hub, other than needing to make sure that the axle nuts are tight to prevent
    the axle from rotating.

    If you plan on doing this, you might consider a larger chainring and cog, possibly something like a
    40/32. This would put less stress on the hub as all other things being equal the chain tension will
    be lower with this set up. Old Uniglide cogs can be ground to the profile needed to fit the hub,
    though I have found when doing this that it is helpful to weld an old 3 speed cog to the uniglide
    cog as I've stripped the remaining tabs that engage the hub driver off the uniglide cog, the
    uniglide cog being much narrower than a 3 speed cog.

    Although hub gears require less maintenance than a derailler equipped bike, removing the rear wheel
    to change a flat tire is not as easy. I don't know if Shimano has changed their design, but the last
    Nexus hub I looked at did not seem very user friendly with respect to easily removing and replacing
    the control cable. Perhaps someone familiar with current Nexus hubs could comment. The Sturmey cable
    adjustment on their old hubs is easily done in seconds.

    Bill Putnam
     
  3. A Muzi

    A Muzi Guest

    > [email protected] (PRIORPARK17) wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > When I am pulling my two children uphill I am on 24Front/28rear giving a
    gain
    > > ratio of 1.7. I am now looking at hub gears for their ease of
    maintanence.
    > > According to Sheldons calculator I need a nexus 7 speed with a 30ish
    front and
    > > a 24 rear.Is this feasable? Does anyone have experience of pulling
    trailers
    > > with hub gears?

    "Bill Putnam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > I use an old Sturmey Archer S5.2 5 speed internal gear hub with a
    > 42/24 combination giving a gain ratio of 2.3 while pulling my two children (40 lbs and 30 lbs
    > respectively) in a trailer. I've used this hub for daily commuting and occasional trailer
    > pulling for more than 10 years without any problem, however for pulling this much weight up
    > hills a lower gear would be nice. The general recommendation from Sturmey for min chainring/cog
    > size is 2 and 42/24 is slightly below that, but I've used a 34/24 combination on other bikes
    > without any problems with the hub, other than needing to make sure that the axle nuts are tight
    > to prevent the axle from rotating.
    >
    > If you plan on doing this, you might consider a larger chainring and cog, possibly something like
    > a 40/32. This would put less stress on the hub as all other things being equal the chain tension
    > will be lower with this set up. Old Uniglide cogs can be ground to the profile needed to fit the
    > hub, though I have found when doing this that it is helpful to weld an old 3 speed cog to the
    > uniglide cog as I've stripped the remaining tabs that engage the hub driver off the uniglide cog,
    > the uniglide cog being much narrower than a 3 speed cog.
    >
    > Although hub gears require less maintenance than a derailler equipped bike, removing the rear
    > wheel to change a flat tire is not as easy. I don't know if Shimano has changed their design, but
    > the last Nexus hub I looked at did not seem very user friendly with respect to easily removing and
    > replacing the control cable. Perhaps someone familiar with current Nexus hubs could comment. The
    > Sturmey cable adjustment on their old hubs is easily done in seconds.

    The Nexus gear controls are still daunting to disconnect/reconnect but the SRAM 7 is quicker than a
    Sturmey (you still need a 15mm wrench along). One need only loosen a knurled screw with the fingers
    and slip off the control box. To reinstall, press the control box home and tighten the knurled screw
    with fingers. The gear adjsutment is unchanged in that process. Price is identical to the Nexus and
    they are quite robust in service.

    --
    Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
     
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