Trek 4500 Commuter

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by jrschultz [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Nice forums you have here. I'm glad I found my way over. I have a 2004 Trek 4500 that didn't see much trail use. So, I converted it to a single speed commuter. I put skinny road going tires on. I have an Origin 8 single speed kit in the rear, but I currently have the stock crank. The crank on my bike has the gears riveted on. I have the chain on the biggest crank cog. Can someone recommend me a decent single speed crank in addition to a decent rigid fork. I don't want to brake the bank on an older bike, but I do want it to last me a while longer. I really dig the simplicity of the single speed commuter set up, but I don't think I'll ever ride fixed. I just want my bike to transition more away from the mountain bike it is and into the commuter I want it to be. Thanks for your help.

What's the max you're willing to spend?

I was thinking $100 give or take on the fork. The crank I'm not sure about. I don't want something too cheap. Can I get a good crank for $150?

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by jrschultz [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Can someone recommend me a decent single speed crank in addition to a decent rigid fork. I don't want to brake the bank on an older bike, but I do want it to last me a while longer.

You may do well to scrounge around on eBay for what you need ...

You should be able to buy a suitable RIGID fork for between $10-and-$100 + shipping. Figure on $20-to-$30 + shipping for a used fork ...

• you just need to be aware of the steerer size (99.9% probability that you will need a fork with a 1 1/8" steerer) & the brake mount type-and-location
  

If the chainrings on your current crankset are separate (vs. a welded conglomeration), then you can drill out the rivets & replace them with some BMX chainring bolts to remount the single chainring of your choice.

If your current crank's spider has an otherwise standard dimension then you can mount a chainring whose tooth count best suits the terrain you are riding on after you remove the rivets.

BTW. You can buy an excellent crankset & BB for under $150 ...

A crank does not have to begin life as a SS crankset ...

Again, all you need are the shorter BMX chainring bolts to mount a single chainring any crankset.

• In some cases, you can thread the chainring's nut on 'backwards' so that it will snug up the bolt OR you can insert spacers (the spacers tend to be expensive, but if you are handy then you fabricate your own) to replace the absent chainring.
  

I recommend that you if you opt for a new crankset that you choose a crankset which you think you may want to use on a future bike (Road or MTB) ...

• if you know the approximate tooth count you prefer-or-want to use, then let that be the determinant in choosing a crankset based on the chainrings which may come on the particular crankset
  
• I have mixed feelings about external BBs (Shimano Hollowtech II, FSA MegaExo, Campagnolo Ultra Torque) ... at the moment they are being superseded by the BB30 & BB386 on the higher end frames/bikes ... the bottom line is that some older styles of Shimano & FSA cranksets are available at what seems like a sizeable discount -- i.e., overstock.
  

Because some people need to have the latest-and-greatest, or because they feel a need to embrace a particular brand of component which is different than what is on their bike(s), some nice stuff which may have seen limited use is often available on eBay.