R
P
Psycholist
Guest
"Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
Nope ... nobody here.
It's the Toyota Camry of bicycles. Go on a century ride and
probably 40% of the riders are on Trek 5500s.
You can't go wrong with a Trek 5500. I've had three. I
crashed one and another got wiped out when a car hit me.
They're light and durable and handle well. The ride is
stiff, but smooth. Actually, if there's one knock on the
bike, it's that the ride is a little ... dull. I didn't
understand what people meant by that until I bought a nice
aluminum/carbon frame. It just seems livelier and zippier in
ways that are hard to define.
But the Trek 5500 is a very fine bike with a very fine
pedigree. It's definately a fast bike. It's also a
comfortable bike for long rides. And lastly, it's backed by
Trek who, for the most part, is pretty decent to deal with
if you have warranty issues.
Bob C.
news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
Nope ... nobody here.
It's the Toyota Camry of bicycles. Go on a century ride and
probably 40% of the riders are on Trek 5500s.
You can't go wrong with a Trek 5500. I've had three. I
crashed one and another got wiped out when a car hit me.
They're light and durable and handle well. The ride is
stiff, but smooth. Actually, if there's one knock on the
bike, it's that the ride is a little ... dull. I didn't
understand what people meant by that until I bought a nice
aluminum/carbon frame. It just seems livelier and zippier in
ways that are hard to define.
But the Trek 5500 is a very fine bike with a very fine
pedigree. It's definately a fast bike. It's also a
comfortable bike for long rides. And lastly, it's backed by
Trek who, for the most part, is pretty decent to deal with
if you have warranty issues.
Bob C.
L
Larry
Guest
I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
can't repaint to the original unless it is in the same
year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint,
missed spots and this paint chipped off. If you like a well
finished bike look for another brand. I sold the frame
cheap went for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but
kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets
paid to ride Trek.
"Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
can't repaint to the original unless it is in the same
year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint,
missed spots and this paint chipped off. If you like a well
finished bike look for another brand. I sold the frame
cheap went for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but
kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets
paid to ride Trek.
"Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
P
Psycholist
Guest
"Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
> chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
> free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
> can't repaint to the original unless it is in
the
> same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
> paint, missed
spots
> and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
> bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
> for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
> soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few that
> look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid
> to ride Trek.
>
> "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> >
> > Anyone have experience with that bike?
Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is a
solid performer and the company stands behind it.
One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
days, the 5500 is a decent value. That's quite relative,
but I do believe they offer a lot for the money versus
many other brands.
Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a
couple of weeks ago who just got his new Project One 5900
with DA 10 speed. I know it's not a 5500, but the paint job
could be had for the 5500 as well and it was jaw-dropping
gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the
coolest-looking bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close
inspection, though.
Bob C.
news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
> chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
> free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
> can't repaint to the original unless it is in
the
> same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
> paint, missed
spots
> and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
> bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
> for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
> soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few that
> look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid
> to ride Trek.
>
> "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> >
> > Anyone have experience with that bike?
Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is a
solid performer and the company stands behind it.
One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
days, the 5500 is a decent value. That's quite relative,
but I do believe they offer a lot for the money versus
many other brands.
Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a
couple of weeks ago who just got his new Project One 5900
with DA 10 speed. I know it's not a 5500, but the paint job
could be had for the 5500 as well and it was jaw-dropping
gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the
coolest-looking bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close
inspection, though.
Bob C.
L
Larry
Guest
I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping
paint job without having to pay $650.00 more. Take a closer
look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone 5.9 with a
project one finish that the customer refused because of grit
under the paint and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end
to the other. And by the way that bike cost $6400.00
"psycholist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> > I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
> > chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it
> > for free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes.
> > They can't repaint to the original unless it is in
> the
> > same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
> > paint, missed
> spots
> > and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
> > bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
> > for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
> > soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a
few
> > that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets
> > paid to ride
Trek.
> >
> > "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> > >
> > > Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
> Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
>
> I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
> lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is a
> solid performer and the company stands behind it.
>
> One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
> days, the 5500 is a decent value. That's quite relative,
> but I do believe they offer a lot
for
> the money versus many other brands.
>
> Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a
> couple of
weeks
> ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10
> speed. I know it's
not
> a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as
> well and it was jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two
> shades off blue with swirly thingies and it just looked
> spectacular. It was about the coolest-looking bike I've
> ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.
>
> Bob C.
paint job without having to pay $650.00 more. Take a closer
look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone 5.9 with a
project one finish that the customer refused because of grit
under the paint and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end
to the other. And by the way that bike cost $6400.00
"psycholist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> > I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
> > chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it
> > for free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes.
> > They can't repaint to the original unless it is in
> the
> > same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
> > paint, missed
> spots
> > and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
> > bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
> > for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
> > soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a
few
> > that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets
> > paid to ride
Trek.
> >
> > "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> > >
> > > Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
> Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
>
> I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
> lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is a
> solid performer and the company stands behind it.
>
> One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
> days, the 5500 is a decent value. That's quite relative,
> but I do believe they offer a lot
for
> the money versus many other brands.
>
> Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a
> couple of
weeks
> ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10
> speed. I know it's
not
> a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as
> well and it was jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two
> shades off blue with swirly thingies and it just looked
> spectacular. It was about the coolest-looking bike I've
> ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.
>
> Bob C.
M
Monty
Guest
I had a 5500 and put 18,000 miles on it. I loved the bike.
Very comfortable and fast. This spring I sold the 5500 and
bought a 5900. I have 4,800 miles on the 5900 this season.
Same thing, Very comfortable and fast. I have no regrets
with either bike.
Both have beautiful finishes! Have a look:
http://nanandmont.com/ebay/b6.jpg http://nanandmont.com/bike/2002/5900-cloud-
9.jpg
"Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
> chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
> free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
> can't repaint to the original unless it is in
the
> same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
> paint, missed
spots
> and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
> bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
> for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
> soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few that
> look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid
> to ride Trek.
>
> "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> >
> > Anyone have experience with that bike?
> >
>
Very comfortable and fast. This spring I sold the 5500 and
bought a 5900. I have 4,800 miles on the 5900 this season.
Same thing, Very comfortable and fast. I have no regrets
with either bike.
Both have beautiful finishes! Have a look:
http://nanandmont.com/ebay/b6.jpg http://nanandmont.com/bike/2002/5900-cloud-
9.jpg
"Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
> chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
> free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
> can't repaint to the original unless it is in
the
> same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
> paint, missed
spots
> and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
> bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
> for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
> soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few that
> look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid
> to ride Trek.
>
> "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> >
> > Anyone have experience with that bike?
> >
>
P
Psycholist
Guest
"Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:msLBc.87612$HG.73702@attbi_s53...
> I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping
> paint job without having to pay $650.00 more. Take a
> closer look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone
> 5.9 with a project one finish that the customer refused
> because of grit under the
paint
> and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end to the other.
> And by the way that bike cost $6400.00
>
> "psycholist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> > > I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear
> > > coat chipped off,
it
> > > went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very
> > > limited choice
in
> > > colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the
> > > original unless it is
in
> > the
> > > same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under
> > > the paint, missed
> > spots
> > > and this paint chipped off. If you like a well
> > > finished bike look for another brand. I sold the frame
> > > cheap went for a better finish. The
ride
> > > quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands.
> > > There are quite a
> few
> > > that look and ride much better. And remember Lance
> > > gets paid to ride
> Trek.
> > >
> > > "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > > > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone have experience with that bike?
> >
> > Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
> >
> > I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
> > lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is
> > a solid performer and the
company
> > stands behind it.
> >
> > One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
> > days, the 5500 is
a
> > decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe
> > they offer a lot
> for
> > the money versus many other brands.
> >
> > Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride
> > a couple of
> weeks
> > ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10
> > speed. I know it's
> not
> > a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as
> > well and it was jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two
> > shades off blue with swirly thingies and it just looked
> > spectacular. It was about the
coolest-looking
> > bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection,
> > though.
> >
> > Bob C.
> >
You paid $4,000 for yours?!!!!??
Bob C.
news:msLBc.87612$HG.73702@attbi_s53...
> I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping
> paint job without having to pay $650.00 more. Take a
> closer look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone
> 5.9 with a project one finish that the customer refused
> because of grit under the
paint
> and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end to the other.
> And by the way that bike cost $6400.00
>
> "psycholist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
> > > I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear
> > > coat chipped off,
it
> > > went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very
> > > limited choice
in
> > > colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the
> > > original unless it is
in
> > the
> > > same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under
> > > the paint, missed
> > spots
> > > and this paint chipped off. If you like a well
> > > finished bike look for another brand. I sold the frame
> > > cheap went for a better finish. The
ride
> > > quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands.
> > > There are quite a
> few
> > > that look and ride much better. And remember Lance
> > > gets paid to ride
> Trek.
> > >
> > > "Rivermist" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> > > > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone have experience with that bike?
> >
> > Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
> >
> > I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
> > lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is
> > a solid performer and the
company
> > stands behind it.
> >
> > One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
> > days, the 5500 is
a
> > decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe
> > they offer a lot
> for
> > the money versus many other brands.
> >
> > Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride
> > a couple of
> weeks
> > ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10
> > speed. I know it's
> not
> > a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as
> > well and it was jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two
> > shades off blue with swirly thingies and it just looked
> > spectacular. It was about the
coolest-looking
> > bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection,
> > though.
> >
> > Bob C.
> >
You paid $4,000 for yours?!!!!??
Bob C.
H
H. M. Leary
Guest
In article <15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01>, "Rivermist" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
>
The 5500 is an OCLV 120 frameset just like the 5200 , which
IMNSHO is the best buy for the buck.
The difference is Durace 10s versus Ultegra.
Take a look at the Calfee Luna Pro for truly custom CF.
HAND
--
³Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness³
- Tomb of the unknown - American Revolution
wrote:
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
>
The 5500 is an OCLV 120 frameset just like the 5200 , which
IMNSHO is the best buy for the buck.
The difference is Durace 10s versus Ultegra.
Take a look at the Calfee Luna Pro for truly custom CF.
HAND
--
³Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness³
- Tomb of the unknown - American Revolution
G
Glenn Civello
Guest
Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
advice. I'm 6" 2" and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing
about 40 lbs. I have two bikes. One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6
(26" wheels") and the other is a Specialized ("Limited")
Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting
and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
Expedition is that due, to the heavy front suspension forks,
the bike has no "zip" to it. So I'm considering a 3rd bike.
My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks
and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances at least--
to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition
makes for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it
were chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days
w/ a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?
What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is
< $500, w/ NO front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post
suspension) has 700cm wheels, SRAM grip shifters, and has
handlebars that will allow me to ride in an upright position
(a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a
12 mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the
way, I'm wondering if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a
problem because of my weight? - ( I won't be pulling and
wheelies or jumping curves)
I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
and I'm looking for a bike that different from what I
already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is
what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
having it done "custom?" Sure would apprecitate some input.
Thanks Glenn
advice. I'm 6" 2" and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing
about 40 lbs. I have two bikes. One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6
(26" wheels") and the other is a Specialized ("Limited")
Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting
and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
Expedition is that due, to the heavy front suspension forks,
the bike has no "zip" to it. So I'm considering a 3rd bike.
My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks
and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances at least--
to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition
makes for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it
were chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days
w/ a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?
What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is
< $500, w/ NO front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post
suspension) has 700cm wheels, SRAM grip shifters, and has
handlebars that will allow me to ride in an upright position
(a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a
12 mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the
way, I'm wondering if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a
problem because of my weight? - ( I won't be pulling and
wheelies or jumping curves)
I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
and I'm looking for a bike that different from what I
already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is
what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
having it done "custom?" Sure would apprecitate some input.
Thanks Glenn
M
Mike Jacoubowsk
Guest
> I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
> CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
> aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
> and I'm looking for a bike that different from
what
> I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it.
> Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
> having it done "custom?"
Sure
> would apprecitate some input.
In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer
the "ride" of a steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing
diameters used on steel frames, larger-sized bikes tend to
be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A manufacturer *could*
get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but they
generally don't due to both the expense of using a special
tubeset and the added weight. And, as has been often
pointed out here, if you want a softer ride, just go to a
bigger tire.
At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a
bike like the TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need
to, and probably still be within your price range.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
"Glenn Civello" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
> advice. I'm 6"
2"
> and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I
> have two bikes. One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels")
> and the other is a Specialized ("Limited") Expedition (26"
> wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting and the
> Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
> Expedition is
that
> due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no
> "zip" to it. So I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone
> has a chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks and I actually
> prefer the ride -- for long distances at least-- to my
> Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition
makes
> for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were
> chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days w/
> a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?
>
> What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame,
> is < $500, w/ NO front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post
> suspension) has 700cm wheels,
SRAM
> grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to
> ride in an upright position (a must, due to back
> problems). The bike would be used on a 12 mile bike path
> and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm
wondering
> if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of
> my weight? -
( I
> won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)
>
> I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
> CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
> aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
> and I'm looking for a bike that different from
what
> I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it.
> Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
> having it done "custom?"
Sure
> would apprecitate some input.
>
> Thanks Glenn
> CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
> aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
> and I'm looking for a bike that different from
what
> I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it.
> Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
> having it done "custom?"
Sure
> would apprecitate some input.
In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer
the "ride" of a steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing
diameters used on steel frames, larger-sized bikes tend to
be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A manufacturer *could*
get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but they
generally don't due to both the expense of using a special
tubeset and the added weight. And, as has been often
pointed out here, if you want a softer ride, just go to a
bigger tire.
At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a
bike like the TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need
to, and probably still be within your price range.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
"Glenn Civello" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
> advice. I'm 6"
2"
> and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I
> have two bikes. One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels")
> and the other is a Specialized ("Limited") Expedition (26"
> wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting and the
> Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
> Expedition is
that
> due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no
> "zip" to it. So I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone
> has a chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks and I actually
> prefer the ride -- for long distances at least-- to my
> Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition
makes
> for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were
> chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days w/
> a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?
>
> What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame,
> is < $500, w/ NO front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post
> suspension) has 700cm wheels,
SRAM
> grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to
> ride in an upright position (a must, due to back
> problems). The bike would be used on a 12 mile bike path
> and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm
wondering
> if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of
> my weight? -
( I
> won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)
>
> I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
> CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
> aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
> and I'm looking for a bike that different from
what
> I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it.
> Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
> having it done "custom?"
Sure
> would apprecitate some input.
>
> Thanks Glenn
G
Glenn Civello
Guest
Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that
I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that
steel has more flex to it than aluminum. And that's why the
aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every road bump and dip
gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A
long trip for me would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate
hill climbing.... (actually, there is one "killer-hill" that
I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy suspension
forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the
aluminum ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a
cromo. Of course, I would prefer titanium but the price is
prohibiting in my case. I do like suspension in the
seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
significant weight difference between that and a non-
suspension post?
Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek
7300FX has an aluminum frame.... darn!
Original Message:
> In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer
> the "ride" of a steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing
> diameters used on steel frames, larger-sized bikes tend to
> be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A manufacturer
> *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing,
> but they generally don't due to both the expense of using
> a special tubeset
and
> the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here,
> if you want a softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.
>
> At your price range (less than $500), you could start with
> a bike like the TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you
> need to, and probably still be
within
> your price range.
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
>
>
> "Glenn Civello" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
> > advice. I'm 6"
> 2"
> > and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I
> > have two
bikes.
> > One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels") and the
> > other is a
Specialized
> > ("Limited") Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the
> > Bridgestone for
commuting
> > and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
> > Expedition is
> that
> > due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has
> > no "zip" to it.
So
> > I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a
> > chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks and I actually
> > prefer the ride -- for long distances
at
> > least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of
> > the Expedition
> makes
> > for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were
> > chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days
> > w/ a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?
> >
> > What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame,
> > is < $500, w/
NO
> > front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has
> > 700cm wheels,
> SRAM
> > grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to
> > ride in an
upright
> > position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would
> > be used on a
12
> > mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the
> > way, I'm
> wondering
> > if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because
> > of my weight? -
> ( I
> > won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)
> >
> > I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had
> > a CroMo frame
but
> > it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom
> > line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm
> > looking for a bike that different from
> what
> > I already have. Preferably something with some zip to
> > it. Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike,
> > without having it done "custom?"
> Sure
> > would apprecitate some input.
> >
> > Thanks Glenn
> >
>
I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that
steel has more flex to it than aluminum. And that's why the
aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every road bump and dip
gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A
long trip for me would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate
hill climbing.... (actually, there is one "killer-hill" that
I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy suspension
forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the
aluminum ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a
cromo. Of course, I would prefer titanium but the price is
prohibiting in my case. I do like suspension in the
seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
significant weight difference between that and a non-
suspension post?
Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek
7300FX has an aluminum frame.... darn!
Original Message:
> In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer
> the "ride" of a steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing
> diameters used on steel frames, larger-sized bikes tend to
> be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A manufacturer
> *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing,
> but they generally don't due to both the expense of using
> a special tubeset
and
> the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here,
> if you want a softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.
>
> At your price range (less than $500), you could start with
> a bike like the TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you
> need to, and probably still be
within
> your price range.
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
>
>
> "Glenn Civello" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
> > advice. I'm 6"
> 2"
> > and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I
> > have two
bikes.
> > One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels") and the
> > other is a
Specialized
> > ("Limited") Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the
> > Bridgestone for
commuting
> > and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
> > Expedition is
> that
> > due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has
> > no "zip" to it.
So
> > I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a
> > chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks and I actually
> > prefer the ride -- for long distances
at
> > least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of
> > the Expedition
> makes
> > for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were
> > chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days
> > w/ a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?
> >
> > What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame,
> > is < $500, w/
NO
> > front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has
> > 700cm wheels,
> SRAM
> > grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to
> > ride in an
upright
> > position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would
> > be used on a
12
> > mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the
> > way, I'm
> wondering
> > if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because
> > of my weight? -
> ( I
> > won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)
> >
> > I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had
> > a CroMo frame
but
> > it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom
> > line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm
> > looking for a bike that different from
> what
> > I already have. Preferably something with some zip to
> > it. Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike,
> > without having it done "custom?"
> Sure
> > would apprecitate some input.
> >
> > Thanks Glenn
> >
>
L
Luigi De Guzman
Guest
On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:21:03 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise
>that I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on
>that steel has more flex to it than aluminum.
I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the
frame to flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy,
and when I used to ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel
the bike bend a bit as I stood up to pedal.....
>And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"...
>every road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks
>B-17 saddle on my Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints
>about comfort. A long trip for me would be 10-12 miles,
>with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there is
>one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum
>bike has heavy suspension forks that are necessary to
>cushion the stiffness of the aluminum ride. I don't find
>suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I would
>prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I
>do like suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or
>anyone) know if there is a significant weight difference
>between that and a non-suspension post?
There is. You're adding the complication of all the
necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be a
fairly simple part.
Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up
for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.
Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
NOT stupidlite ones.
Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with
the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops
allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the
brakes--and then go for a ride.
-Luigi
>
>Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the
>Trek 7300FX has an aluminum frame.... darn!
Why not ride the bike, and then decide? In the end, it's the
bike that you're riding, not someone else's opinion.
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise
>that I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on
>that steel has more flex to it than aluminum.
I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the
frame to flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy,
and when I used to ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel
the bike bend a bit as I stood up to pedal.....
>And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"...
>every road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks
>B-17 saddle on my Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints
>about comfort. A long trip for me would be 10-12 miles,
>with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there is
>one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum
>bike has heavy suspension forks that are necessary to
>cushion the stiffness of the aluminum ride. I don't find
>suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I would
>prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I
>do like suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or
>anyone) know if there is a significant weight difference
>between that and a non-suspension post?
There is. You're adding the complication of all the
necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be a
fairly simple part.
Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up
for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.
Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
NOT stupidlite ones.
Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with
the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops
allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the
brakes--and then go for a ride.
-Luigi
>
>Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the
>Trek 7300FX has an aluminum frame.... darn!
Why not ride the bike, and then decide? In the end, it's the
bike that you're riding, not someone else's opinion.
D
David Kerber
Guest
In article <[email protected]>,
luigi12081 @cox.net says...
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:21:03 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise
> >that I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on
> >that steel has more flex to it than aluminum.
>
> I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of
> the frame to flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy
> guy, and when I used to ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I
> could feel the bike bend a bit as I stood up to pedal.....
My old Schwinn LeTour from 1979 did the same, but my
new (last year) Fuji Touring doesn't flex at all under
hard pedaling.
...
> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
> drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
> to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
> the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine
> up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
> between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.
Very good suggestion.
> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
> NOT stupidlite ones.
>
> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the
> drops allow for
It's even ok to put the bars *above* the saddle level if
that's what feels best!
> *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--
> and then go for a ride.
--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
the newsgroups if possible).
luigi12081 @cox.net says...
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:21:03 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise
> >that I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on
> >that steel has more flex to it than aluminum.
>
> I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of
> the frame to flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy
> guy, and when I used to ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I
> could feel the bike bend a bit as I stood up to pedal.....
My old Schwinn LeTour from 1979 did the same, but my
new (last year) Fuji Touring doesn't flex at all under
hard pedaling.
...
> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
> drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
> to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
> the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine
> up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
> between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.
Very good suggestion.
> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
> NOT stupidlite ones.
>
> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the
> drops allow for
It's even ok to put the bars *above* the saddle level if
that's what feels best!
> *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--
> and then go for a ride.
--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
the newsgroups if possible).
G
Glenn Civello
Guest
Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension
seatposts add significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I
bought my Specialized Expedition the seatpost wiggled from
side to side. Because it was still under warrantee, my LBS
installed a non-suspension post in its place. This made my
ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a
suspension post. They ordered it, so by next week I should
be riding w/ seat-post suspension. Again, my Bridgestone
doesn't have suspension in either the forks or the
seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of
having a steel frame.
Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
price and the low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage.
I slipped a disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning
over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding a
roadbike...
=======
Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there
is a significant weight difference between that and a non-
suspension post?
>>
> There is. You're adding the complication of all the
> necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be
> a fairly simple part.
>
> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
> drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
> to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
> the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine
> up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
> between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.
>
> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
> NOT stupidlite ones.
>
> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the
> drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy access
> to the brakes--and then go for a ride.
>
> -Luigi
seatposts add significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I
bought my Specialized Expedition the seatpost wiggled from
side to side. Because it was still under warrantee, my LBS
installed a non-suspension post in its place. This made my
ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a
suspension post. They ordered it, so by next week I should
be riding w/ seat-post suspension. Again, my Bridgestone
doesn't have suspension in either the forks or the
seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of
having a steel frame.
Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
price and the low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage.
I slipped a disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning
over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding a
roadbike...
=======
Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there
is a significant weight difference between that and a non-
suspension post?
>>
> There is. You're adding the complication of all the
> necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be
> a fairly simple part.
>
> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
> drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
> to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
> the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine
> up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
> between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.
>
> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
> NOT stupidlite ones.
>
> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the
> drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy access
> to the brakes--and then go for a ride.
>
> -Luigi
G
Glenn Civello
Guest
The Jamis Aurora is a terrific looking, but I'll have to
pass on it for the reasons I explained, in my last post, to
Luigi. However, you guys got me to thinking about Jamis'
other bikes... I see that there Coda Sport and Elite use
cromo frames and when the '05's come out I may be able to
get it at a good price. Anybody have any experience with
either of these bikes?
http://tinyurl.com/343pk
http://tinyurl.com/2gjoq
I'd have to swap-out the handle bars w/ something that has a
comfortable rise to them.
"Reid Priedhorsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news
[email protected]...
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 09:41:34 -0400, Luigi de Guzman wrote:
> >
> > Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo
> > steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I
> > picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go
> > for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right,
> > go with it.
>
> Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a
> fabulous bike, though, IMO.
>
> Reid
pass on it for the reasons I explained, in my last post, to
Luigi. However, you guys got me to thinking about Jamis'
other bikes... I see that there Coda Sport and Elite use
cromo frames and when the '05's come out I may be able to
get it at a good price. Anybody have any experience with
either of these bikes?
http://tinyurl.com/343pk
http://tinyurl.com/2gjoq
I'd have to swap-out the handle bars w/ something that has a
comfortable rise to them.
"Reid Priedhorsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news
[email protected]...> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 09:41:34 -0400, Luigi de Guzman wrote:
> >
> > Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo
> > steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I
> > picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go
> > for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right,
> > go with it.
>
> Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a
> fabulous bike, though, IMO.
>
> Reid
L
Luigi De Guzman
Guest
On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 11:02:36 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension
>seatposts add significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I
>bought my Specialized Expedition the seatpost wiggled from
>side to side. Because it was still under warrantee, my LBS
>installed a non-suspension post in its place. This made my
>ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a
>suspension post. They ordered it, so by next week I should
>be riding w/ seat-post suspension. Again, my Bridgestone
>doesn't have suspension in either the forks or the
>seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of
>having a steel frame.
>
>Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
>price and the low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage.
>I slipped a disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning
>over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding
>a roadbike...
My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I
don't lean over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in
the drops.
The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars
must be shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low
handlebars. This is ****; handlebar height is something that
you determine for yourself. After all, it isn't Big Mig
riding your bike, but you.
A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to
have the handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.
As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on
mine, but bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara
Randonee, Fuji Touring, for instance.
=-Luigi
>=======
>
>
>
>Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if
>there is a significant weight difference between that and a
>non-suspension post?
>>>
>
>> There is. You're adding the complication of all the
>> necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be
>> a fairly simple part.
>>
>> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
>> drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike.
>> Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo
>> steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I
>> picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go
>> for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right,
>> go with it.
>>
>> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
>> NOT stupidlite ones.
>>
>> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
>> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that
>> the drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy
>> access to the brakes--and then go for a ride.
>>
>> -Luigi
>
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension
>seatposts add significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I
>bought my Specialized Expedition the seatpost wiggled from
>side to side. Because it was still under warrantee, my LBS
>installed a non-suspension post in its place. This made my
>ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a
>suspension post. They ordered it, so by next week I should
>be riding w/ seat-post suspension. Again, my Bridgestone
>doesn't have suspension in either the forks or the
>seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of
>having a steel frame.
>
>Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
>price and the low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage.
>I slipped a disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning
>over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding
>a roadbike...
My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I
don't lean over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in
the drops.
The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars
must be shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low
handlebars. This is ****; handlebar height is something that
you determine for yourself. After all, it isn't Big Mig
riding your bike, but you.
A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to
have the handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.
As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on
mine, but bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara
Randonee, Fuji Touring, for instance.
=-Luigi
>=======
>
>
>
>Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if
>there is a significant weight difference between that and a
>non-suspension post?
>>>
>
>> There is. You're adding the complication of all the
>> necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be
>> a fairly simple part.
>>
>> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
>> drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike.
>> Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo
>> steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I
>> picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go
>> for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right,
>> go with it.
>>
>> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
>> NOT stupidlite ones.
>>
>> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
>> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that
>> the drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy
>> access to the brakes--and then go for a ride.
>>
>> -Luigi
>
G
Glenn Civello
Guest
>> >Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
>> >price and the
low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a
disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning over is
uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding a
roadbike... >>>
>> My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I
>> don't lean
over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.
>>
> The marketing types insist that anything with dropped
> bars must be
shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low
handlebars. This is ****; handlebar height is something
that you determine for yourself. After all, it isn't Big
Mig riding your bike, but you.>
I hear you Luigi but w/o trying out the bike I wouldn't take
the chance. The one bike shop that has the Jamis line won't
order it unless I buy it. He's got a Coda Elite in stock
that looks good to me, but its the frame is too small. He's
also carry's the Giant line but all are aluminum frames.
Other bike shops in the area carry Trek, Kona, and Fuji, and
Bianche (sp?) I'm pretty sure a Coda Elite or Coda Sport
would work out well, if I were able to change the flat
handlebars over to high-rise adjustable stem. I don't know
if that's possible though (I forgot to ask the bike
salesman) Also there a used bicycle shop in the area that
has a pretty good selection... unfortunately, most of the
frames are 19 inches or less. I need a 21"... 22" would be
better. I visit that shop regularly, figuring that if I can
something with a good frame I could upgrade the rest of the
parts. No luck so far.... I've been looking since April.
Thanks for all your help!
> A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire
> to have the handlebars at around the same level as
> your saddle.
>
> As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on
> mine, but bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara
> Randonee, Fuji Touring, for instance.
>
> =-Luigi
>
>
> >=======
> >
> >
> >
> >Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if
> >there is a significant weight difference between that and
> >a non-suspension post?
> >>>
> >
> >> There is. You're adding the complication of all the
> >> necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise
> >> be a fairly simple part.
> >>
> >> Why not go for something totally different? 700C
> >> wheels, drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a
> >> road bike. Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you
> >> must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the
> >> bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance;
> >> they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
> >> price is right, go with it.
> >>
> >> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
> >> NOT stupidlite ones.
> >>
> >> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
> >> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that
> >> the drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy
> >> access to the brakes--and then go for a ride.
> >>
> >> -Luigi
> >>
>> >price and the
low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a
disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning over is
uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding a
roadbike... >>>
>> My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I
>> don't lean
over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.
>>
> The marketing types insist that anything with dropped
> bars must be
shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low
handlebars. This is ****; handlebar height is something
that you determine for yourself. After all, it isn't Big
Mig riding your bike, but you.>
I hear you Luigi but w/o trying out the bike I wouldn't take
the chance. The one bike shop that has the Jamis line won't
order it unless I buy it. He's got a Coda Elite in stock
that looks good to me, but its the frame is too small. He's
also carry's the Giant line but all are aluminum frames.
Other bike shops in the area carry Trek, Kona, and Fuji, and
Bianche (sp?) I'm pretty sure a Coda Elite or Coda Sport
would work out well, if I were able to change the flat
handlebars over to high-rise adjustable stem. I don't know
if that's possible though (I forgot to ask the bike
salesman) Also there a used bicycle shop in the area that
has a pretty good selection... unfortunately, most of the
frames are 19 inches or less. I need a 21"... 22" would be
better. I visit that shop regularly, figuring that if I can
something with a good frame I could upgrade the rest of the
parts. No luck so far.... I've been looking since April.
Thanks for all your help!
> A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire
> to have the handlebars at around the same level as
> your saddle.
>
> As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on
> mine, but bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara
> Randonee, Fuji Touring, for instance.
>
> =-Luigi
>
>
> >=======
> >
> >
> >
> >Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if
> >there is a significant weight difference between that and
> >a non-suspension post?
> >>>
> >
> >> There is. You're adding the complication of all the
> >> necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise
> >> be a fairly simple part.
> >>
> >> Why not go for something totally different? 700C
> >> wheels, drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a
> >> road bike. Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you
> >> must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the
> >> bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance;
> >> they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
> >> price is right, go with it.
> >>
> >> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
> >> NOT stupidlite ones.
> >>
> >> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
> >> with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that
> >> the drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy
> >> access to the brakes--and then go for a ride.
> >>
> >> -Luigi
> >>
