Originally Posted by rclouviere
Thanks for the reply. If my fit is right, can/will I get used to the new bike, as far as climbing, over time?
There can be several variables to bike fit & subsequent rider comfort ...
Consequently, the right-or-best "fit" on the bike for a rider is one of those things which is sometimes elusive ...
Presuming that there isn't a mechanical issue with the new bike (
e.g., brake pads set too close to the rims & consequently rubbing), then if you were comfortable in the past AND felt that you were able to climb more easily in the past, then the former riding position is probably what you want to replicate on your new bike rather than to hope to get comfortable on your new bike with the riding position which you currently have ...
- I suppose that the most comfortable position may not be the most efficient, BTW.
Unless you still have your old bike stashed away OR a picture of the bike which you can use as reference, somewhere, this is advice which is unfortunately after-the-fact ...
- many long time riders (including myself, of course!) figure out after a while that it is a good idea to know the specific measurements from the top of the saddle to the pedals, the reach to the handlebars, etc ...
- with that in mind ... the crank arm length on the Trek may be different than what you had on your Lemond
- the handlebar width may be different
- the stem could certainly be a different length or, the stem may be set at a different height which just isn't comfortable for you
[*]the object, then, is to somehow replicate your former position on the new bike which you had on your Lemond rather than getting used to how your new Trek was put together by your LBS ...
[*]which is a long way of saying "yes,
if your fit is right then you will climb more easily on your new bike."
FWIW. Since I have more than one bike AND they are not precisely the same, what I found was that the arbitrarily-decided-by-me measurement which I found is easily replicated is the distance from the center of the back edge of the saddle to the rear edge of the hoods of the brake levers (
of course, this doesn't work if a bike has a different type of saddle unless some compensation is made)...
- I have found that a variation of about 1" on the diagonal is actually a pretty small difference and is basically a small difference in the elbow flex
THAT very arbitrary measurement
for me will not be the same for different people.
The arbitrary measurement allows me to quickly set up a bike (for me) which leaves me in the same approximate riding position if-or-when I move between bikes.
FYI. So, 'I' start with the height AND fore-aft position of my saddle relative to the pedals ...
And then, I simply choose a stem length based on the fore mentioned arbitrary length to accommodate the particular handlebar width/height.
Done!?!
Well, yes. For me.
BTW. IF you still have the old wheelset, then you may want to try it for ONE ride to see if there is a difference which you can notice that could be attributed to the wheels-and-tires.
BTW2. Sight unseen, I am going to suggest that you try moving the saddle BACK (rearward) & LOWER the saddle height by about 1/4"-to-3/8".
