C
Carl Fogel
Guest
[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> John Everett writes:
>
> >> My track riding partner had a crash the other week and is now sporting an artificial shoulder
> >> and the reason for his crash has been identified as the wrong type of glue (as well as not
> >> enough) on his tubular tyre. As I have a Yankee mate that can get tubular glue for me and is
> >> even willing to send it it to me, But has no knowledge of cycling, let alone the noble sport of
> >> track riding. What is a good brand of tubular glue in America? The "multi purpose" glues here
> >> in New Zealand are obviously a bit dodgy.
>
> http://www.engr.ukans.edu/~ktl/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf
>
> I don't know if anybody else found this chart to be weird. In all the years I rode tubulars with
> various types of rim glue, I never had the glue separate from the rim. In fact the build-up on
> rims often became a problem and rim cleaning was in order. So how does the rim material affect how
> tight the tire stays on. It seems to me to be a case of how carefully the tire was uniformly glued
> with a minimum thickness glue film and one that was cured sufficiently.
>
> The whole chart seems odd. There is also no mention of the sample size, method of application and
> pre-cure for the tires. Somehow I don't believe the results shown are anything but a cursory test
> of tenacity of the adhesive to itself, neither tire not rim pulling away with bare patches.
>
> Who did these tests, and what sort of controls were used?
>
> Jobst Brandt [email protected]
Dear Jobst,
Well, the title lists Calvin C. Jones of the Barnett Bicycle Institute and C.S. Howat, Ph.D , P.E.,
of the Chemical and Engineering Dept. of the University of Kansas.
So you might email Professor Howat and ask him for the details. He's still in the university's
contact list at:
http://www.engr.ku.edu/facultystaff/people.php?departmentID=14
Try him at [email protected].
The article states that the charts are a subset of more extensive data and testing that isolated
such things as curing time and mentions cleaning procedures.
Whether the glue fails most often at the tire's base tape or at the rim sounds like a good question.
But your experience in the years that you rode tubulars might differ from the kinds of rims tested
in 1995. After all, these rims were anodized and hard anodized. Do you recall what kind of rims you
were gluing to?
As for why different brands of glue might stick differently to anodized and hard anodized rims, a
long FAQ follows from:
http://www.anodizing.org/faqs.html
that may address the question. Briefly, post-anodizing sealants vary widely. Also, different
anodizing procedures affect porosity, which might matter to glue.
Carl Fogel
from FAQ:
I am trying to glue a rubber grommet to clear anodized aluminum. I am using an industrial grade
instant adhesive on 6061-T6 alloy. The grommet is acting as a mechanical pivot so there is some
amount of force, but not a lot. I am having difficulty getting the adhesive to stick. Do you think
it is the adhesive I am using, or does the sealing of the anodic coating reduce the adhesion? Could
the anodize coating be coming off?
It's probably not the fault of the adhesive and, no, the anodizing is not coming off. You have most
likely touched on the problem in your question. The answer to your problem can be applied across any
number of situations involving the adhesion of bonding agents or organic coatings (paints) over
anodized aluminum. Anodizing can be an excellent surface for these applications, but the anodizing
must be done with this in mind. The solution to your problem involves the method of rinsing and
sealing of the anodic oxide after anodizing.
It is quite common to seal anodic coatings on so-called "proprietary" solutions that contain certain
wetting agents (surfactants). This is done primarily to help prevent the formation of **** on the
surface of the part. **** detracts from the appearance of the product and makes it look dirty or
hazy. If it is known that the anodic coating is to be used as a base for paint, or that adhesives
are going to be used (caulking around windows in an architectural application, for example), the
anodized parts may be sealed in either near-boiling deionized (DI) water or a dilute solution of
commercially available nickel acetate. Sealing with room temperature nickel fluoride is also
acceptable in this case. All three of these methods are free of surfactants. It also helps if the
parts can be thoroughly rinsed in clean DI water before and after the sealing step. This will give a
clean, "non-slippery" surface (no wetting agents) to which paint and most adhesives will bond.
(Anodized aluminum that is to be painted is sometimes left unsealed altogether.) It would also be
advisable to prime the anodized surface prior to applying the adhesive by wiping with a highly
volatile solvent such as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or acetone to remove all dirt, fingerprints, and
other possible contaminants.
Of course, you will still have to determine, by testing, which adhesive will give the best service
for your application.
http://www.anodizing.org/faqs.html
> John Everett writes:
>
> >> My track riding partner had a crash the other week and is now sporting an artificial shoulder
> >> and the reason for his crash has been identified as the wrong type of glue (as well as not
> >> enough) on his tubular tyre. As I have a Yankee mate that can get tubular glue for me and is
> >> even willing to send it it to me, But has no knowledge of cycling, let alone the noble sport of
> >> track riding. What is a good brand of tubular glue in America? The "multi purpose" glues here
> >> in New Zealand are obviously a bit dodgy.
>
> http://www.engr.ukans.edu/~ktl/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf
>
> I don't know if anybody else found this chart to be weird. In all the years I rode tubulars with
> various types of rim glue, I never had the glue separate from the rim. In fact the build-up on
> rims often became a problem and rim cleaning was in order. So how does the rim material affect how
> tight the tire stays on. It seems to me to be a case of how carefully the tire was uniformly glued
> with a minimum thickness glue film and one that was cured sufficiently.
>
> The whole chart seems odd. There is also no mention of the sample size, method of application and
> pre-cure for the tires. Somehow I don't believe the results shown are anything but a cursory test
> of tenacity of the adhesive to itself, neither tire not rim pulling away with bare patches.
>
> Who did these tests, and what sort of controls were used?
>
> Jobst Brandt [email protected]
Dear Jobst,
Well, the title lists Calvin C. Jones of the Barnett Bicycle Institute and C.S. Howat, Ph.D , P.E.,
of the Chemical and Engineering Dept. of the University of Kansas.
So you might email Professor Howat and ask him for the details. He's still in the university's
contact list at:
http://www.engr.ku.edu/facultystaff/people.php?departmentID=14
Try him at [email protected].
The article states that the charts are a subset of more extensive data and testing that isolated
such things as curing time and mentions cleaning procedures.
Whether the glue fails most often at the tire's base tape or at the rim sounds like a good question.
But your experience in the years that you rode tubulars might differ from the kinds of rims tested
in 1995. After all, these rims were anodized and hard anodized. Do you recall what kind of rims you
were gluing to?
As for why different brands of glue might stick differently to anodized and hard anodized rims, a
long FAQ follows from:
http://www.anodizing.org/faqs.html
that may address the question. Briefly, post-anodizing sealants vary widely. Also, different
anodizing procedures affect porosity, which might matter to glue.
Carl Fogel
from FAQ:
I am trying to glue a rubber grommet to clear anodized aluminum. I am using an industrial grade
instant adhesive on 6061-T6 alloy. The grommet is acting as a mechanical pivot so there is some
amount of force, but not a lot. I am having difficulty getting the adhesive to stick. Do you think
it is the adhesive I am using, or does the sealing of the anodic coating reduce the adhesion? Could
the anodize coating be coming off?
It's probably not the fault of the adhesive and, no, the anodizing is not coming off. You have most
likely touched on the problem in your question. The answer to your problem can be applied across any
number of situations involving the adhesion of bonding agents or organic coatings (paints) over
anodized aluminum. Anodizing can be an excellent surface for these applications, but the anodizing
must be done with this in mind. The solution to your problem involves the method of rinsing and
sealing of the anodic oxide after anodizing.
It is quite common to seal anodic coatings on so-called "proprietary" solutions that contain certain
wetting agents (surfactants). This is done primarily to help prevent the formation of **** on the
surface of the part. **** detracts from the appearance of the product and makes it look dirty or
hazy. If it is known that the anodic coating is to be used as a base for paint, or that adhesives
are going to be used (caulking around windows in an architectural application, for example), the
anodized parts may be sealed in either near-boiling deionized (DI) water or a dilute solution of
commercially available nickel acetate. Sealing with room temperature nickel fluoride is also
acceptable in this case. All three of these methods are free of surfactants. It also helps if the
parts can be thoroughly rinsed in clean DI water before and after the sealing step. This will give a
clean, "non-slippery" surface (no wetting agents) to which paint and most adhesives will bond.
(Anodized aluminum that is to be painted is sometimes left unsealed altogether.) It would also be
advisable to prime the anodized surface prior to applying the adhesive by wiping with a highly
volatile solvent such as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or acetone to remove all dirt, fingerprints, and
other possible contaminants.
Of course, you will still have to determine, by testing, which adhesive will give the best service
for your application.
http://www.anodizing.org/faqs.html