Turn of events.



Lololololol /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif

Ok, maybe its not very good looking (the Pinarello one)... But... After reading the website apparently the shape its not all about looks. They took the time to run an analysis for (I dont know which though) some loads and thats what came up as a shape.

They are also using some very good carbon fibre material.

This ofcourse could be all nonsence if the bike is terrible...
 
Volnix said:
Lololololol /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif Ok, maybe its not very good looking (the Pinarello one)... But... After reading the website apparently the shape its not all about looks. They took the time to run an analysis for (I dont know which though) some loads and thats what came up as a shape. They are also using some very good carbon fibre material. This ofcourse could be all nonsence if the bike is terrible...
I'm hesitant to put much faith in test information that gets filtered by a marketing department. Nearly all companies are using very good carbon fiber material. There are very few companies making the actual carbon fiber (somewhere on the order of 2-5 companies). I think Pinarello uses Toray's stuff, like a lot of bike companies. The difference is in the CF layup.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


I'm hesitant to put much faith in test information that gets filtered by a marketing department.

Nearly all companies are using very good carbon fiber material. There are very few companies making the actual carbon fiber (somewhere on the order of 2-5 companies). I think Pinarello uses Toray's stuff, like a lot of bike companies. The difference is in the CF layup.
I dont remember which one it is, but I think its carbon fiber from a Japanese company. Its on their website.
 
Sweet bike! /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif

(Ps. You might not want to remove the plastic patches on the headtube. They are there to protect the paint from the cables rubbing on it. The cables contact with the headtube have removed all the paint from it on my previous bike.)
 
Originally Posted by Volnix .

Sweet bike! /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif

(Ps. You might not want to remove the plastic patches on the headtube. They are there to protect the paint from the cables rubbing on it. The cables contact with the headtube have removed all the paint from it on my previous bike.)
Thank you Volnix!

Well First ride with the bike today. Only 10 miles due to I dont have cold weather gear and it is 18 degrees outside. This is like night and day from my old 45# mountain bike. Here is my list of what I have noticed.

1. The reach to the handle bars feels weird. It lets me know that I was really cramped on that old mountain bike as my fitter said that it is actually the perfect position for me.
2. 1 to 2 MPH gain with no extra effort
3. My top leg muscles do not hurt like they did on the other bike.
4. I do not feel tired like I did on my other bike for the same distance.
5. I think I need the front of my seat brung up as it feels like it is pointed too far down and is forcing me to use my arms more for support than my ****.
 
Originally Posted by Dave Pace .

Thank you Volnix!

Well First ride with the bike today. Only 10 miles due to I dont have cold weather gear and it is 18 degrees outside. This is like night and day from my old 45# mountain bike. Here is my list of what I have noticed.

1. The reach to the handle bars feels weird. It lets me know that I was really cramped on that old mountain bike as my fitter said that it is actually the perfect position for me.
2. 1 to 2 MPH gain with no extra effort
3. My top leg muscles do not hurt like they did on the other bike.
4. I do not feel tired like I did on my other bike for the same distance.
5. I think I need the front of my seat brung up as it feels like it is pointed too far down and is forcing me to use my arms more for support than my ****.
Same here, but I am a bit worried in using it in the city as I cannot brake fast enough with the brake-shifter levers...

I was thinking of getting a pair of those:




Or maybe not to use it in traffic and only in recreational-outdoor rides.

I have over 900km on mine by now and everything is just fine. But I changed the seat... I think I might go for a fitting session at some point because I have some similar problems with the seat...
 
Originally Posted by Dave Pace .
5. I think I need the front of my seat brung up as it feels like it is pointed too far down and is forcing me to use my arms more for support than my ****.
This is trial and error. It's good to start with a baseline of a level saddle and then adjust incrementrally as needed.

I've discovered if the saddle nose is too high, I feel like there is some "bad" pressure being applied to my perinium when hammering in the drops.
But when nose too low, exactly as you describe, feel as if sliding forward and needing my arms more to support.

Adjust by just a degree or two as these changes are very noticeable.

Sometimes it's really just a new saddle that's needed.
 
Originally Posted by danfoz .


This is trial and error. It's good to start with a baseline of a level saddle and then adjust incrementally as needed.

I've discovered if the saddle nose is too high, I feel like there is some "bad" pressure being applied to my perinium when hammering in the drops.
But when nose too low, exactly as you describe, feel as if sliding forward and needing my arms more to support.

Adjust by just a degree or two as these changes are very noticeable.

Sometimes it's really just a new saddle that's needed.
Actually I rode to the bike shop as I forgot the user manual DVD etc that come with the bike after I posted this. Well they put me back on the machine to refit me. The did find that the saddle was .4 pointed downwards and it needed to be up by .4. Now it feels great. They also rotated the handle bars by a notch or 2 and now it feels a lot better. I do not want to keep my arms locked when I am on the hoods, and I don't feel stretched out. I the rode home the long way. Let me tell you it is weird to see my Speed/cadence sensor say that I am doing to 80 rpm and getting to 20 mph and I am not really trying to go that fast. I am not use to it. This is really going to be fun learning this bike.

On a side note, I am kicking myself for spending the money on that cheap Schwinn from Toys r us and thinking that I could use it as a road bike. Meh, at least I can keep it on a trainer for the inside stuff.
 
0.4 what? If that's micro radians, that's not much, only 0.00002°. If that's parsecs, then that's a lot, 1.9*10^13 miles. If you're saddle is a Fizik Arione and is clamped exactly in the middle of the saddle, you've have to rotate that bad boy 3.56*10^15° to move the tip o' the nose that much. If the LBS rotates that saddle at 100 rpm--extremely fast for saddle rotation--it's going to take them 3135.7 years to accomplish. You're never going to get your bike back, and the cost of that shop-time is going to be huge, especially if they're doing that at $50/hr. The 124th generation to follow you will owe something on the order of $1.37 billion. Man, you've completely ****ed your progeny!
 
Originally Posted by alienator .

0.4 what? If that's micro radians, that's not much, only 0.00002°. If that's parsecs, then that's a lot, 1.9*10^13 miles. If you're saddle is a Fizik Arione and is clamped exactly in the middle of the saddle, you've have to rotate that bad boy 3.56*10^15° to move that it much. If the LBS rotates that saddle at 100 rpm--extremely fast for saddle rotation--it's going to take them 3135.7 years to accomplish. You're never going to get your bike back, and the cost of that shop-time is going to be huge, especially if they're doing that at $50/hr. The 124th generation to follow you will owe something on the order of $1.37 billion. Man, you've completely ****ed your progeny!
Not true. I am not ****ed because they forgot to refill the Mr Fusion, so they could not generate the 1.21 jiggawats to do this. And you forgot to calculate that it is actually space that is moving and not the bike.



0.4 degrees.

so in all it was 0.8 degrees out. basiclly 1 degree. Funny how that made all the difference.
 
you need to buy a spirit level, then you will remember the final setup that is the correct one for you,
 
Dave Pace said:
Not true. I am not ****ed because they forgot to refill the Mr Fusion, so they could not generate the 1.21 jiggawats to do this. And you forgot to calculate that it is actually space that is moving and not the bike. 0.4 degrees.  so in all it was 0.8 degrees out. basiclly 1 degree. Funny how that made all the difference. 
If by space moving you mean spacetime is expanding, then you are correct: it is expanding. However, your seat isn't expanding with it. Even if the expansion of space were a factor, the rate at which space would be expanding at the nose of the saddle compared to the middle of the saddle would be 1.38*10^-17 inches/sec or 13.8 atto inches/sec. You'd have to wait a long time before spacetime expanded enough to measure it with a ruler. Heck, you'd likely not even need to factor the expansion in spacetime into a bicycle trip to the Moon since the expansion of spacetime is only moving the Moon away from us at 1.06*10^-9 inches/sec or 0.00000106 thousandths of an inch each second. FYI, you needn't double the 0.4°. Iffin' it were 0.4° out at the nose, it were 0.4° out everywhere and would have only required a move of 0.4°. That is a pretty small amount, about 1mm at the nose if an Arione is centered on the seat post clamp. Still, butt's can be sensitive.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


FYI, you needn't double the 0.4°. Iffin' it were 0.4° out at the nose, it were 0.4° out everywhere and would have only required a move of 0.4°. That is a pretty small amount, about 1mm at the nose if an Arione is centered on the seat post clamp. Still, butt's can be sensitive.
Ahh, the only reason I said 0.8 is due to they state that it should have been 0.4+, and when I took it in it was 0.4-. Just an oversight they said. So they raised it from -0.4 to +0.4. Wouldn't that be a swing total of 0.8?
 

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