two questions

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Carlos, Jan 22, 2003.

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  1. Carlos

    Carlos Guest

    1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?

    2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub
    (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless steel
    dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed
    the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he
    hub but enough to be visible.

    my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's
    not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, it would
    be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
     
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  2. On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 11:11:43 -0500, carlos wrote:

    > 1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?

    Both, from what I see, but mostly road/touring.
    >
    > 2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub
    > (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless
    > steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when i
    > removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove
    > fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
    >
    > my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's
    > not exposed to rocks, roots....

    I had one get bent -- the wheel was in the back of my station wagon when it got rear-ended. Perhaps
    some sort of impact when the wheel was off the bike? Or maybe a serious impact against the nut or
    the head. But most likely it happened off the bike.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a _`\(,_ | conclusion. --
    George Bernard Shaw (_)/ (_) |
     
  3. Carlos

    Carlos Guest

    i've actually got that tool....i've got 5 rigid forks that i swap between from time to time and i
    check them every 8 months....and when i first got them to make sure the money was worth it (they are
    all custom rigids)....and the current two...a vicious cycles and a vanialla cycles are dead on.

    so is the indy fab and the ritchey.

    what bugs me more is that i take care of my equipment and that this just baffles the hell out of me.
    i've been running scenarios over and over in my head on how this could have happened but just can't
    seem to figure it out.

    c

    kapers wrote:
    > Stop by your Friendly Neighborhood LBS and have them drop the wheel and check if the dropouts are
    > parallel with a ffg-1 tool or similar device. Should only take a moment and a beverage incentive
    > (something caffenated... or a barley-pop should do) will at least eliminate one possible cause of
    > your skewer deformity. Hope this helps. Keith.
    >
    > "carlos" <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message
    > news:[email protected]...
    >
    >>1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
    >>
    >>2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings
    >
    > on my
    >
    >>King front hub (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with
    >
    > Independent
    >
    >>Fabrications style stainless steel dropouts....if this info is of any
    >
    > help). to
    >
    >>do that it requires removing the QR. when i removed the QR, i could see
    >
    > that it
    >
    >>was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to remove fromt he hub
    >
    > but
    >
    >>enough to be visible.
    >>
    >>my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed
    >
    > internally
    >
    >>so in a crash, it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if
    >
    > anything
    >
    >>was to get damaged in a crash, it would be the lever or the nut on the
    >
    > other
    >
    >>end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
    >>
    >
     
  4. Carlos

    Carlos Guest

    i borrowed a front Salsa QR but didn't like the not so smooth action. i still think the Shimano
    LX/XT/XTR QRs are smoothest. but that's all subjective.

    i've already replced the old QR with the Shimano but i've got the old one sitting on my desk and
    it's just taunts me.

    David Kunz wrote:
    > carlos wrote:
    >
    >> 1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
    >>
    >> 2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub
    >> (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless
    >> steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when
    >> i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to
    >> remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
    >>
    >> my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's
    >> not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, it
    >> would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
    >
    >
    > I had one that used to bend on it's own. I gave up straightening it -- it just bent again (nice
    > smooth carc, not a very big one). I never really thought about it. I blamed it on being cheap :).
    > It held up fine for many miles of hard hits before the plastic cam got to much wear on it and too
    > much grit embedded in it and I replaced it with a Salsa.
    >
    > David
     
  5. Carlos

    Carlos Guest

    nope...it's bent about 4 mm from dead center.

    dianne_1234 wrote:
    > Glad you got the lube thing going! So is that where it's bent?
    >
    > carlos <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message
    > news:<[email protected]>...
    >
    >>got the lube down.
    >>
    >>interesting....i'd never thought of that....it getting bent while closing it.
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>dianne_1234 wrote:
    >>
    >>>I've heard of skewers getting bent from closing them. The friction between the lever and plastic
    >>>bit can sometimes impose a strong moment on the shaft. If it's bent right there, try lubing the
    >>>surfaces that move.
    >>>
    >>>carlos <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message
    >>>news:<[email protected]>...
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
    >>>>
    >>>>2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub
    >>>> (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless
    >>>> steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when
    >>>> i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to
    >>>> remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
    >>>>
    >>>>my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash,
    >>>>it's not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash,
    >>>>it would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
    >
     
  6. Carlos

    Carlos Guest

    smooth bend.

    you can get a sense of the bend by looking at the QR....but if you sight length wise along teh
    shaft, you can see it clearly.

    Nicholas & Domino wrote:
    > is it a smooth bend or a real kink? what's the angle of the bend?
    >
    > I can only think that if it's a rigid fork then a large impact has resulted in enough impact to
    > the hub as to cause inelastic deformation in skewer, but only elastic deformation in the hub.
    > Unlikely but it's only an idea.
    >
    > nick
    >
    > "carlos" <blacksheepQstic.net> wrote in message
    > news:[email protected]... i borrowed a front Salsa QR but didn't like
    > the not so smooth action. i still think the Shimano LX/XT/XTR QRs are smoothest. but that's all
    > subjective.
    >
    > i've already replced the old QR with the Shimano but i've got the old one sitting on my desk and
    > it's just taunts me.
    >
    >
    >
    > David Kunz wrote:
    >
    >>carlos wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>>1. is this tech group for road questions or off-road or both?
    >>>
    >>>2. at the end of a recent off-road ride, i stopped to adjust the bearings on my King front hub
    >>> (i've got a Vanilla Cyles lugged rigid fork with Independent Fabrications style stainless
    >>> steel dropouts....if this info is of any help). to do that it requires removing the QR. when
    >>> i removed the QR, i could see that it was a slightly bent. not enough to make it hard to
    >>> remove fromt he hub but enough to be visible.
    >>>
    >>>my question is...how does a front QR rod get bent? it's all housed internally so in a crash, it's
    >>>not exposed to rocks, roots.... also, i figure, if anything was to get damaged in a crash, it
    >>>would be the lever or the nut on the other end. it's a pre-GT Syncros steel QR.
    >>
    >>
    >>I had one that used to bend on it's own. I gave up straightening it -- it just bent again (nice
    >>smooth carc, not a very big one). I never really thought about it. I blamed it on being cheap :).
    >>It held up fine for many miles of hard hits before the plastic cam got to much wear on it and too
    >>much grit embedded in it and I replaced it with a Salsa.
    >>
    >>David
    >>
    >
     
  7. The Plan Having only ridden on a road bike with clips and straps, I am finally planing on buying a
    new bike. It seems as though this groups opinion is that in the spring is the best time to buy for
    economical reasons. Anyway, I was given a logical idea to put the clipless system on my old bike
    now, and get used to using it before transferring them to my new bike in April-ish.

    The Question I think I am leaning towards the Look system, but I am now just beginning to research
    shoes. My question in a nutshell is, where do I begin? What various items do I look for in choosing
    the right clipless shoe?

    Any guidance is appreciated.

    Michael
     
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