Ultegra chain replacement - Trek 5200

[Fred Aspect]

Hi,

I've a Trek 5200, 2002 model, and I'm about to replace the chain (it's
been 2 years...). I was about to order on-line and saw that the Ultegra
has two options in terms of number of links. Should I just go for the
longer chain and remove the excess? I've a dual front derailleur, by the
way, and a 9 speed rear cassette (all standard issue).

Thanks all,

Fred.

 

[[email protected]]

Fred Aspect wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've a Trek 5200, 2002 model, and I'm about to replace the chain (it's
> been 2 years...). I was about to order on-line and saw that the Ultegra
> has two options in terms of number of links. Should I just go for the
> longer chain and remove the excess? I've a dual front derailleur, by the
> way, and a 9 speed rear cassette (all standard issue).

Hi Fred. I recommend replacing with a Sachs chain.
More dependable, and cheaper. Whatever you do, make sure
you leave the chain long enough to accommodate an
accidental shift into the big-big combination.

Robert

 

[Andrew F Martin]

I would stick with the Shimano Ultegra/DA chain. I think the BEST
advice would be to forget about ording it online and having your local
shop do it for you. They can make sure you use the proper number of
links and help with cool things like quick-links. You'll save $6
online over what you'll pay in a shop (before shipping). The service
is more than worth it.

-a

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Fred Aspect wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've a Trek 5200, 2002 model, and I'm about to replace the chain (it's
> been 2 years...). I was about to order on-line and saw that the Ultegra
> has two options in terms of number of links. Should I just go for the
> longer chain and remove the excess? I've a dual front derailleur, by the
> way, and a 9 speed rear cassette (all standard issue).
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Fred.

Use the least expensive compatible chain. Get the longer one. I
recommend a 105 level 9s chain(CN-HG-73) or the Sram PC-59(905)...BUT
after 2 years, your cogset 'may' be toasted...test ride up a hill in
all the cogs and if one is worn out, you will know it as it skips.

 

[Jeff Starr]

On 25 May 2005 20:36:41 -0700, "Andrew F Martin"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I would stick with the Shimano Ultegra/DA chain. I think the BEST
>advice would be to forget about ording it online and having your local
>shop do it for you. They can make sure you use the proper number of
>links and help with cool things like quick-links. You'll save $6
>online over what you'll pay in a shop (before shipping). The service
>is more than worth it.
>
>-a

I don't know, my shop charges $39 for DA 9-speed chain. I get them on
sale, online for about $20. Even with shipping, I save $14-15. I
usually order a number of items, at one time, thus lowering my
shipping cost, per item even more.

If you have a chain tool, changing a chain is not difficult. If you
are a serious rider, it is something you should know.

I must admit, I had a GC for the LBS, so I bought my first one there
and had the mechanic show me how to do the install. I only had to see
it done once, and in retrospect, I could have just followed the
instructions on Park Tools website.


Life is Good!
Jeff

 

[Art Harris]

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:

> Use the least expensive compatible chain. Get the longer one. I
> recommend a 105 level 9s chain(CN-HG-73) or the Sram PC-59(905)...

I think the 105 level is HG-53. Ultegra is HG-93. Don't know what
happened to HG-73.

> BUT after 2 years, your cogset 'may' be toasted...test ride up a
> hill in all the cogs and if one is worn out, you will know it as
> it skips.

Depends on mileage. OP should measure how much the chain has
"stretched" to determine how worn it is.

Art Harris

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Art Harris wrote:
> Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>
> > Use the least expensive compatible chain. Get the longer one. I
> > recommend a 105 level 9s chain(CN-HG-73) or the Sram PC-59(905)...
>
> I think the 105 level is HG-53. Ultegra is HG-93. Don't know what
> happened to HG-73.
>
> > BUT after 2 years, your cogset 'may' be toasted...test ride up a
> > hill in all the cogs and if one is worn out, you will know it as
> > it skips.
>
> Depends on mileage. OP should measure how much the chain has
> "stretched" to determine how worn it is.
>
> Art Harris

We buy HG-73 from EuroAsia.

 

[Fred Aspect]

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>
> Art Harris wrote:
>
>>Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Use the least expensive compatible chain. Get the longer one. I
>>>recommend a 105 level 9s chain(CN-HG-73) or the Sram PC-59(905)...
>>
>>I think the 105 level is HG-53. Ultegra is HG-93. Don't know what
>>happened to HG-73.
>>
>>
>>>BUT after 2 years, your cogset 'may' be toasted...test ride up a
>>>hill in all the cogs and if one is worn out, you will know it as
>>>it skips.
>>
>>Depends on mileage. OP should measure how much the chain has
>>"stretched" to determine how worn it is.
>>
>>Art Harris
>
>
> We buy HG-73 from EuroAsia.
>

Thanks for all of the input. To answer some of the questions in no
particular order... I've changed chains before, and have the necessary
tools, so the on-line purchase will be straightforward. Then again, the
equipment has always been lower end stuff, so I've always done
everything myself. This bike is the nicest I've owned.
My milage is around 4000miles on that chain. The rear cassette looks
absolutely fine, so I don't expect any slippage.
I think, though, seeing as there are a number of options and my local
bikeshop are friendly and have a number of very knowledgeable people,
I'll to there to change my chain.

Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.

Fred.

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Thanks for all of the input. To answer some of the questions in no
> particular order... I've changed chains before, and have the necessary
> tools, so the on-line purchase will be straightforward. Then again, the
> equipment has always been lower end stuff, so I've always done everything
> myself. This bike is the nicest I've owned.
> My milage is around 4000miles on that chain. The rear cassette looks
> absolutely fine, so I don't expect any slippage.

At 4000 miles, it could easily be possible that the chain has damaged the
cassette. It depends upon how much you weigh, how much you ride in the
hills, and how clean you keep it. If I let one of my chains go that long,
I'd have probably wrecked both my cassette and chainrings. 2000 miles is
about the best I can get, but I weigh 175lbs, ride nothing but hills, and
ride no matter what (rain or shine).

By the way, it's almost impossible to detect the wear required to cause
skipping on a cassette. It just doesn't take that much alteration of the
tooth profile on the smaller cogs to do the trick. When the skipping is on
the largest cogs, it (the wear) is more easily detected visually.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Fred Aspect" <not_really@fred_aspect.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>>
>> Art Harris wrote:
>>
>>>Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Use the least expensive compatible chain. Get the longer one. I
>>>>recommend a 105 level 9s chain(CN-HG-73) or the Sram PC-59(905)...
>>>
>>>I think the 105 level is HG-53. Ultegra is HG-93. Don't know what
>>>happened to HG-73.
>>>
>>>
>>>>BUT after 2 years, your cogset 'may' be toasted...test ride up a
>>>>hill in all the cogs and if one is worn out, you will know it as
>>>>it skips.
>>>
>>>Depends on mileage. OP should measure how much the chain has
>>>"stretched" to determine how worn it is.
>>>
>>>Art Harris
>>
>>
>> We buy HG-73 from EuroAsia.
>>
>
> Thanks for all of the input. To answer some of the questions in no
> particular order... I've changed chains before, and have the necessary
> tools, so the on-line purchase will be straightforward. Then again, the
> equipment has always been lower end stuff, so I've always done everything
> myself. This bike is the nicest I've owned.
> My milage is around 4000miles on that chain. The rear cassette looks
> absolutely fine, so I don't expect any slippage.
> I think, though, seeing as there are a number of options and my local
> bikeshop are friendly and have a number of very knowledgeable people, I'll
> to there to change my chain.
>
> Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.
>
> Fred.

 

[Fred Aspect]

Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
>>Thanks for all of the input. To answer some of the questions in no
>>particular order... I've changed chains before, and have the necessary
>>tools, so the on-line purchase will be straightforward. Then again, the
>>equipment has always been lower end stuff, so I've always done everything
>>myself. This bike is the nicest I've owned.
>>My milage is around 4000miles on that chain. The rear cassette looks
>>absolutely fine, so I don't expect any slippage.
>
>
> At 4000 miles, it could easily be possible that the chain has damaged the
> cassette. It depends upon how much you weigh, how much you ride in the
> hills, and how clean you keep it. If I let one of my chains go that long,
> I'd have probably wrecked both my cassette and chainrings. 2000 miles is
> about the best I can get, but I weigh 175lbs, ride nothing but hills, and
> ride no matter what (rain or shine).
>
> By the way, it's almost impossible to detect the wear required to cause
> skipping on a cassette. It just doesn't take that much alteration of the
> tooth profile on the smaller cogs to do the trick. When the skipping is on
> the largest cogs, it (the wear) is more easily detected visually.
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
>
>
.... snip

>>to there to change my chain.
>>
>>Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.
>>
>>Fred.
>
>
>

Hmm, thanks. I weigh between 140-150 (depending...) and try to cycle
mostly hills. I tend to be a bit of a fair weather rider though, and do
keep the chain pretty clean.

Should I get any skipping now? Thanks,

Fred.

 

[Art Harris]

Fred Aspect wrote:

> I weigh between 140-150 (depending...) and try to cycle mostly
> hills. I tend to be a bit of a fair weather rider though, and do
> keep the chain pretty clean.

> Should I get any skipping now?

That's a close call at 4000 miles. The best clue would be to measure 12
links of the old chain to see how much it has "stretched." If it
measures 12-1/16" or less you're probably ok.

Or just put on a new chain and try it. Another factor would be if there
were one or two cogs that you rode in much more than the others
(especially the small cogs).

Art Harris

 

[[email protected]]

Fred Aspect wrote:

> Hmm, thanks. I weigh between 140-150 (depending...) and try to cycle
> mostly hills. I tend to be a bit of a fair weather rider though, and do
> keep the chain pretty clean.
>
> Should I get any skipping now? Thanks,


I'm thinking that you could probably make
it work without replacing cogset but that
it wouldn't work as smoothly as it would
with all new. You are in a grey area.
I would keep riding the old chain for
several thousand more miles, until
everything is clearly and obviously worn
out, then replace it all including
chainrings. In the meantime, keep your
old chain lubed, don't worry too much
about cleaning your drivetrain except to
clear stuff from between your cogs as
buildup there will also cause chain skip.

Do it til it's Done!

Robert

 

[Art Harris]

"R15" wrote:

> I would keep riding the old chain for several thousand more miles, > until everything is clearly and obviously worn out, then replace
> it all including chainrings.

I strongly disagree with that. He's only got 4,000 miles on the
chanrings. They've got a LOT of life left. I suspect the cassette may
be ok as well.

Measure the chain! If it isn't badly worn, the rest of the drivetrain
is probably fine. This is a lightweight rider who says he rides mostly
in nice weather. How bad could the chain be?

Art Harris