Ultegra crankarm stuck

[Pixelbrainz]

Hi all,

I have a left side Ultegra crankarm that will not come off. It has been on since the factory 2
years ago. It seems like every nut and bolt on this bike has been overtorqued. It is greased
though at least

I stripped out the cap and threads using the allen wrench method; Yeah, I should have known better,
but did it anyway.

Then tried a crank puller and really finished off the threads.

Next I made a plate to slip behind the arm to use with a harmonic (gear) puller against a threaded
rod mounted in the BB

Still won't budge; bent the plate.

Next is to try heating it but I wanted to find out if anybody out there has a solution or advice
before I really wreck it.

I have another crankarm but would like to save this one if possible

Much obliged Pixelbrainz

 

[Pixelbrainz]

Oh yeah, it is a splined crank, silly me pixelbrainz <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
> I have a left side Ultegra crankarm that will not come off. It has been on since the factory 2
> years ago. It seems like every nut and bolt on this bike has been overtorqued. It is greased
> though at least
>
> I stripped out the cap and threads using the allen wrench method; Yeah, I should have known
> better, but did it anyway.
>
> Then tried a crank puller and really finished off the threads.
>
> Next I made a plate to slip behind the arm to use with a harmonic (gear) puller against a threaded
> rod mounted in the BB
>
> Still won't budge; bent the plate.
>
> Next is to try heating it but I wanted to find out if anybody out there has a solution or advice
> before I really wreck it.
>
> I have another crankarm but would like to save this one if possible
>
>
> Much obliged Pixelbrainz

 

[Scribe2b]

ride it off. put the bike in a stiff gear and climb a hill. dont bite handelbars when it jumps off
good rides jc

 

[Woody Turgid]

I once hacksawed through a bottom bracket to get the crankarm off. Then you could punch the spline
out. If you do ride it off, you can put the bolt back in, but loose first, so as not to lose the
arm, as well as your balance when it comes loose.

"pixelbrainz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
> I have a left side Ultegra crankarm that will not come off. It has been on since the factory 2
> years ago. It seems like every nut and bolt on this bike has been overtorqued. It is greased
> though at least
>
> I stripped out the cap and threads using the allen wrench method; Yeah, I should have known
> better, but did it anyway.
>
> Then tried a crank puller and really finished off the threads.
>
> Next I made a plate to slip behind the arm to use with a harmonic (gear) puller against a threaded
> rod mounted in the BB
>
> Still won't budge; bent the plate.
>
> Next is to try heating it but I wanted to find out if anybody out there has a solution or advice
> before I really wreck it.
>
> I have another crankarm but would like to save this one if possible
>
>
> Much obliged Pixelbrainz
>
>

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[A Muzi]

-snip- "Woody Turgid" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I once hacksawed through a bottom bracket to get the crankarm off. Then
you
> could punch the spline out. If you do ride it off, you can put the bolt back in, but loose
> first, so
as
> not to lose the arm, as well as your balance when it comes loose.

It's much quicker to cut the aluminum arm you've given up on than to cut the steel spindle which you
could have reused.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

[J. Zwiebel]

I had the same problem with a Shimano crankarm mounted in the factory (Trek) on a low end road bike.
I also stripped the threads with a crank puller. The bike shop also took the hack saw approach.
Whatever you do, do not grease the BB spline when remounting the crankarm, or it will seat too
tightly and you'll face the same problem again!

"Woody Turgid" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I once hacksawed through a bottom bracket to get the crankarm off. Then
you
> could punch the spline out. If you do ride it off, you can put the bolt back in, but loose
> first, so
as
> not to lose the arm, as well as your balance when it comes loose.
>
> "pixelbrainz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I have a left side Ultegra crankarm that will not come off. It has been on since the factory 2
> > years ago. It seems like every nut and bolt on this bike has been overtorqued. It is greased
> > though at least
> >
> > I stripped out the cap and threads using the allen wrench method; Yeah, I should have known
> > better, but did it anyway.
> >
> > Then tried a crank puller and really finished off the threads.
> >
> > Next I made a plate to slip behind the arm to use with a harmonic (gear) puller against a
> > threaded rod mounted in the BB
> >
> > Still won't budge; bent the plate.
> >
> > Next is to try heating it but I wanted to find out if anybody out there has a solution or advice
> > before I really wreck it.
> >
> > I have another crankarm but would like to save this one if possible
> >
> >
> > Much obliged Pixelbrainz
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> -----------== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Uncensored Usenet News
==----------
> http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----= Over 100,000 Newsgroups - Unlimited Fast Downloads - 19 Servers
=-----

 

[lisated]

"J. Zwiebel" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Whatever you do, do not grease the BB spline when remounting the crankarm, or it will seat too
> tightly and you'll face the same problem again!

5..4..3..2..1..

Ted Bennett

 

[Chuck Davis]

"J. Zwiebel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>...... Whatever you do, do not grease the BB spline when remounting the crankarm, or it will seat
>too tightly
and
> you'll face the same problem again!
>

Below is a Q and A from the Shimano FAQ at http://www.shimano-europe.com/cycling/index.phtml. See
"On the other hand".

Chuck Davis

Question:

Do I have to use some grease on the spindle of a square bottom bracket?

Answer:

No this is not recommended to do so. Reason for this is that the square bottom brackets have a
tapered spindle, so in case you would assemble and disassemble the crankset a few times, assemble it
with grease again and tighten the crankbolt, the crank will be pushed onto the spindle more and
more. The stress on the square hole of the crank will become so high that it might break. Tightening
torque for the crankbolt should be 35- 50 Nm.

On the other hand, for the splined bottom brackets we do recommend to apply some grease onto the
spindle. As this type of spindle does not have a tapered spindle, there is no risk of stress on the
hole of the crank for assembly with grease.

 

[Pixelbrainz]

Thanks to all for the replies.

I got it off by wrapping a Campagnolo crank tool with .002 shim foil. This wedged the crank tool in
enough to "bite". Also, the Campy tool threads were slightly larger than the Park.

Then I heated the arm slightly with a propane torch; this was just enough to loosen the bond. Next
time I will heat the thing at first sign of "too tight". Doesn't appear to be any detrimental
effects. Are there any from a light heating?

I don't care for the Shimano recommendation of using the crankbolt against the dustcap. Not enough
thread. Cap is too fragile. Never again.

Questions:

There are too schools of thought; grease the spline or not to grease the spline. Which to use? I
think the factory recommends light grease. What about NeverSeize"? I have always used that on square
cranks and never had any problem. I also use it for any steel to aluminium connection.

I think the factory spec for tightening the crank bolt was 430 inch pounds. Is this valid? The
crankbolts were on there from the factory at least 300 foot pounds, I mean on there like an impact
wrench put them on.

Thanks again PB

pixelbrainz <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
> I have a left side Ultegra crankarm that will not come off. It has been on since the factory 2
> years ago. It seems like every nut and bolt on this bike has been overtorqued. It is greased
> though at least
>
> I stripped out the cap and threads using the allen wrench method; Yeah, I should have known
> better, but did it anyway.
>
> Then tried a crank puller and really finished off the threads.
>
> Next I made a plate to slip behind the arm to use with a harmonic (gear) puller against a threaded
> rod mounted in the BB
>
> Still won't budge; bent the plate.
>
> Next is to try heating it but I wanted to find out if anybody out there has a solution or advice
> before I really wreck it.
>
> I have another crankarm but would like to save this one if possible
>
>
> Much obliged Pixelbrainz