Ultegra shifter question

[Roger Sacilotto]

I recently bought a used bicycle (2000 Fuji Team) with ST-6501 brifters.
The bike was supposedly only ridden a few times and left in a garage for 6
years. The previous owner fell over at a stop, there's some very minor
scratches on the right side, including the brifter lever. Overall, the
condition of the bike matches the claim of light usage.

The issue is that occasionally the right lever misses a shift to a lower
gear, usually in the middle of the cassette (which has almost no
perceptible wear). It's like the lever can't find the ratchet (no
resistance) for a couple of tries, then grabs it on the third or fourth
attempt. I assume that the problem isn't wear-related. This is my first
bike with brifters, so I'm not sure what could cause the behavior or if
there's any adjustment that will help. The missed shifts happen enough to
be annoying, but I can live with it, so I'm not going to replace the unit
unless it fails.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Roger Sacilotto

 

[Jeff Starr]

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 20:54:08 -0600, Roger Sacilotto
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I recently bought a used bicycle (2000 Fuji Team) with ST-6501 brifters.
>The bike was supposedly only ridden a few times and left in a garage for 6
>years. The previous owner fell over at a stop, there's some very minor
>scratches on the right side, including the brifter lever. Overall, the
>condition of the bike matches the claim of light usage.
>
>The issue is that occasionally the right lever misses a shift to a lower
>gear, usually in the middle of the cassette (which has almost no
>perceptible wear). It's like the lever can't find the ratchet (no
>resistance) for a couple of tries, then grabs it on the third or fourth
>attempt. I assume that the problem isn't wear-related. This is my first
>bike with brifters, so I'm not sure what could cause the behavior or if
>there's any adjustment that will help. The missed shifts happen enough to
>be annoying, but I can live with it, so I'm not going to replace the unit
>unless it fails.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Roger Sacilotto

Hi, most likely it just needs to be adjusted, but you might want to
have the rear derailleur hanger checked for proper alignment. It could
be slightly bent.

Try adjusting first, and if that doesn't do it, get the alignment
checked. The adjustment is done at the rear derailleur, barrel
adjuster, inline with the cable. Shift so that the chain is on the
second smallest cog, then turn the adjuster, so that chain is rubbing
the larger adjacent cog, then just back off until it stops rubbing.
Shift through the gears and check it again

The other thing to do, would be to replace the cable. The cable needs
to move freely, with absolutely no fraying.


Life is Good!
Jeff

 

[Roger Sacilotto]

I'm fairly sure that the alignment is good. My other bike has indexed bar-
ends with an Ultegra 9sp rear derailer, so I'm used to alignment
adjustments. I removed the derailer to clean it, and the cable is like new
at the end. I changed the front cable, I will replace the rear cable in
case there is some binding somewhere.

However, most of the time the shifting is fine. No noise from the chain,
and the chain isn't jumping or hesitating. It's an intermittent issue and
"feels" like it's in the shifter unit. I push the brake lever inward and
there's no resistance, do it a couple more times and I feel the lever catch
the ratchet and then it shifts normally. Most of the time, I push the
lever and it operates as it should. Is this indicative of a cable problem?

Thanks,

Roger



Jeff Starr <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> Hi, most likely it just needs to be adjusted, but you might want to
> have the rear derailleur hanger checked for proper alignment. It could
> be slightly bent.
>
> Try adjusting first, and if that doesn't do it, get the alignment
> checked. The adjustment is done at the rear derailleur, barrel
> adjuster, inline with the cable. Shift so that the chain is on the
> second smallest cog, then turn the adjuster, so that chain is rubbing
> the larger adjacent cog, then just back off until it stops rubbing.
> Shift through the gears and check it again
>
> The other thing to do, would be to replace the cable. The cable needs
> to move freely, with absolutely no fraying.
>
>
> Life is Good!
> Jeff
>

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Roger Sacilotto wrote:
> I'm fairly sure that the alignment is good. My other bike has indexed bar-
> ends with an Ultegra 9sp rear derailer, so I'm used to alignment
> adjustments. I removed the derailer to clean it, and the cable is like new
> at the end. I changed the front cable, I will replace the rear cable in
> case there is some binding somewhere.
>
> However, most of the time the shifting is fine. No noise from the chain,
> and the chain isn't jumping or hesitating. It's an intermittent issue and
> "feels" like it's in the shifter unit. I push the brake lever inward and
> there's no resistance, do it a couple more times and I feel the lever catch
> the ratchet and then it shifts normally. Most of the time, I push the
> lever and it operates as it should. Is this indicative of a cable problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
>
>
>

Flush with a STI repair kit(WD-40), lube well with a spray lube. Ensure
the inner wire, housing and BB guide are OK. If it still won't 'catch',
warranty it, 2 years. If no soap, replace. Unfortunately, 9s ultegra
shifters from suppliers is getting scarce, singles more so. Ya may have
to 'upgrade' to 10s...another score for shimano.

If the thing is truely toasted, get a set of Centaur 10s ERGO, a Campag
rear der, adjust on your present shimano 9s and go ride. No more 'STI
failed' scenarios.
> Jeff Starr <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >
> > Hi, most likely it just needs to be adjusted, but you might want to
> > have the rear derailleur hanger checked for proper alignment. It could
> > be slightly bent.
> >
> > Try adjusting first, and if that doesn't do it, get the alignment
> > checked. The adjustment is done at the rear derailleur, barrel
> > adjuster, inline with the cable. Shift so that the chain is on the
> > second smallest cog, then turn the adjuster, so that chain is rubbing
> > the larger adjacent cog, then just back off until it stops rubbing.
> > Shift through the gears and check it again
> >
> > The other thing to do, would be to replace the cable. The cable needs
> > to move freely, with absolutely no fraying.
> >
> >
> > Life is Good!
> > Jeff
> >

 

[Bill]

"Roger Sacilotto" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm fairly sure that the alignment is good. My other bike has indexed
bar-
> ends with an Ultegra 9sp rear derailer, so I'm used to alignment
> adjustments. I removed the derailer to clean it, and the cable is like
new
> at the end. I changed the front cable, I will replace the rear cable in
> case there is some binding somewhere.
>
> However, most of the time the shifting is fine. No noise from the chain,
> and the chain isn't jumping or hesitating. It's an intermittent issue and
> "feels" like it's in the shifter unit. I push the brake lever inward and
> there's no resistance, do it a couple more times and I feel the lever
catch
> the ratchet and then it shifts normally. Most of the time, I push the
> lever and it operates as it should. Is this indicative of a cable problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
>
I'm with Peter, if it is six years old then Shimano's idea of lube is now
tacky gunk (scientific term). WD-40 flush will probably set you free. Don't
be stingy. FLUSH. I've used it with success on several old STI right hand
brifters. Problem is usually first noticeable in the cold. Trying to release
to a higher gear, smaller rear cog. I like dripping in some Phil's Tenacious
Oil afterwards.
Bill Brannon

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> I'm with Peter, if it is six years old then Shimano's idea of lube is now
> tacky gunk (scientific term). WD-40 flush will probably set you free.
> Don't
> be stingy. FLUSH. I've used it with success on several old STI right hand
> brifters. Problem is usually first noticeable in the cold. Trying to
> release
> to a higher gear, smaller rear cog. I like dripping in some Phil's
> Tenacious
> Oil afterwards.
> Bill Brannon

You guys need to get with the program; in all seriousness, PowerLube
(available at finer auto parts stores everywhere) works much better than
WD-40 for this task. We've used both, and while WD-40 often works initially,
PowerLube is much longer-lasting (the shifter stays working sometimes
forever, while WD-40 sometimes loses effectiveness fairly quickly).

I don't know what's in the stuff that makes it work so well, but I'd suggest
getting it before it goes the way of carbon-tet (one of the greatest, and
unfortunately dangerous, solvents).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[Diablo Scott]

Bill wrote:
WD-40 flush will probably set you free. Don't
> be stingy. FLUSH. I've used it with success on several old STI right hand
> brifters. Problem is usually first noticeable in the cold. Trying to release
> to a higher gear, smaller rear cog. I like dripping in some Phil's Tenacious
> Oil afterwards.

I recently did this with great success on my 8-speed Ultegra STI. I
first tried all kinds of lubes and didn't get any results at all and
thought about going back to downtube shifters for reliability (this is
my foul weather bike). Then I got the Costco size WD40 and emptied
about half a can in there. The key as you said, is to think FLUSH, not
LUBE. I sprayed the WD-40 everywhere where I could aim the little red
straw while shifting and braking and clicking levers - front and rear
shifters both. They shift so well now that I've erased all thoughts of
doing Peter's retro ride... for now.

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/5269/171/1600/Junction in Snow.jpg

 

[Bill]

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > I'm with Peter, if it is six years old then Shimano's idea of lube is
now
> > tacky gunk (scientific term). WD-40 flush will probably set you free.
> > Don't
> > be stingy. FLUSH. I've used it with success on several old STI right
hand
> > brifters. Problem is usually first noticeable in the cold. Trying to
> > release
> > to a higher gear, smaller rear cog. I like dripping in some Phil's
> > Tenacious
> > Oil afterwards.
> > Bill Brannon
>
> You guys need to get with the program; in all seriousness, PowerLube
> (available at finer auto parts stores everywhere) works much better than
> WD-40 for this task. We've used both, and while WD-40 often works
initially,
> PowerLube is much longer-lasting (the shifter stays working sometimes
> forever, while WD-40 sometimes loses effectiveness fairly quickly).
>
> I don't know what's in the stuff that makes it work so well, but I'd
suggest
> getting it before it goes the way of carbon-tet (one of the greatest, and
> unfortunately dangerous, solvents).
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
>
Mike, I'll take a look at a can of PowerLube. I think of WD as a solvent,
not a lubricant. That's why a follow-up with Phil's oil.
Bill

 

[Roger Sacilotto]

I just flushed out the lever with WD-40. My auto parts store isn't one of
the finer ones, I couldn't find PowerLube I will replace the cable,
too.

Thanks for the advice!

Roger

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
> > I'm with Peter, if it is six years old then Shimano's idea of lube is now
> > tacky gunk (scientific term). WD-40 flush will probably set you free.
> > Don't
> > be stingy. FLUSH. I've used it with success on several old STI right hand
> > brifters. Problem is usually first noticeable in the cold. Trying to
> > release
> > to a higher gear, smaller rear cog. I like dripping in some Phil's
> > Tenacious
> > Oil afterwards.
> > Bill Brannon
>
> You guys need to get with the program; in all seriousness, PowerLube
> (available at finer auto parts stores everywhere) works much better than
> WD-40 for this task. We've used both, and while WD-40 often works initially,
> PowerLube is much longer-lasting (the shifter stays working sometimes
> forever, while WD-40 sometimes loses effectiveness fairly quickly).

WD-40 is a solvent(I''m sure Mike knows that), and that's what needs to
be done, dissolve all the old grease in the lever. Then a dry, then a
spray lube. I'm sure powerlube works but so does WD-40 and Prolink
spray. It also sounds like this job, either with powerlube or whatever
works most/all of the time. In my experience, it does not. Most of the
time in my experience and particularly with newish levers(like the DA
10s I just replaced-1 month old), old grease is not the problem.

'Working forever?-two types of STI-those that have failed and those
that will.
>
> I don't know what's in the stuff that makes it work so well, but I'd suggest
> getting it before it goes the way of carbon-tet (one of the greatest, and
> unfortunately dangerous, solvents).
>
> --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
> www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[Paul Kopit]

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 18:32:24 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I don't know what's in the stuff that makes it work so well, but I'd suggest
>getting it before it goes the way of carbon-tet (one of the greatest, and
>unfortunately dangerous, solvents).

I doubt CarbonTet. It eats plastic.