upgrade.. but what??
- Thread starter andy05
- Start date
The first thing that you really need to do is evaluate your bike and decide what it is that you don't like about your current setup. Don't just upgrade for the sake of upgrading. Upgrade what you think needs upgrading. You might also ask yourself if your current bike frame is worth upgrading with new components or if you should replace the entire bike with a new one.
FWIW, the upgrade that is most benificial is upgrading the engine
. If you are not already in your top physical condition, getting there will be more benificial than any other upgrade.
FWIW, the upgrade that is most benificial is upgrading the engine
. If you are not already in your top physical condition, getting there will be more benificial than any other upgrade.
it is normal to want to upgrade stuff on your bike. how long have you had this bike? how much have you rode it? the upgrades i have done so far is to put an aerobar on my handle bar as well as a cyling computer-aside from that, my only major upgrade will to convert my 105 brakes to ultegra (which most of my bike is now). i also plan on changing my saddle to a bontrager i saw the other day.... selle's are a lil too uncomfortable for me. but that is what i am goin to up grade. this is why i ask how long you have rode, because stuff like this will come to mind when you do ride. hope this helps!
Why don't you set yourself a rule? - you have to wear out or break something to be allowed to replace it. Following this, you'll be enticed to do a lot of riding and you'll save money.
Since no one else will give you any real information, I guess I'll give it a shot. Wheels are generally the best thing to upgrade (considering you are on a decent bike already. putting, say ksyrium es's for example on a trek 1000 wouldn't make much sense). The rotating weight (due to centrifugal force, i believe?) of the rim makes them feel heavier while riding than they actually are. Smoother, longer spinning bearing on nicer wheels will also save a bit of energy in the long run.
Now, this all sounds good in writing, but it would be OVERLY optimistic to hope for a full 1 mph upgrade in speed just from upgrading things on the bike. The best thing to do to gain speed is to train harder.
Now, this all sounds good in writing, but it would be OVERLY optimistic to hope for a full 1 mph upgrade in speed just from upgrading things on the bike. The best thing to do to gain speed is to train harder.
The rotating inertia hypothesis has been debunked as being vanishingly insignificant. 1 g on the rim is 99.9% equal to 1g on your waistline. Similarly, bearing quality has an almost immeasurably small effect on efficiency, assuming that they are not actually damaged.
If you go to deep profile wheels ($$$$), you may notice a 1% speed improvement at a given power output. Or you may not notice it.
Seriously, just ride it. The only upgrades that I've ever noticed riding my road bike were my DA shifters (in comparison with 105), and the only difference was the feel, not the utility.
If you go to deep profile wheels ($$$$), you may notice a 1% speed improvement at a given power output. Or you may not notice it.
Seriously, just ride it. The only upgrades that I've ever noticed riding my road bike were my DA shifters (in comparison with 105), and the only difference was the feel, not the utility.
Not in Sydney. Only took me three years to break both wheels in crashes. Now I've got those Cosmic Carbones I've been hankering for. Strangely enough, and disappointingly, they don't seem to make me any faster.alienator said:
I understand that the rider is the biggest issue, but why then would anyone get a $6000 bike over a $2000 bike? I have a $2000 bike, which I like very much, but it weighs 20 pounds. I think I'll need to spend around $4000 to get a 17-pound bike. If this less weight makes me a few minutes faster up a 30 minute climb, I think it's worth it. So I guess my point is that the bike does matter to some extent.artemidorus said:
3 pounds save some minutes on a 30 min climb? More like some seconds. At best, you're talking about a 2% weight change for the system, so your time will be 2%, or less, better. That's neglecting the fact that aerodynamic resistance won't necessarily change with your new bike, so you don't even get your full 2% time benefit.jojoma said:
It all depends on what those few seconds are worth to you.
artemidorus said:Not in Sydney. Only took me three years to break both wheels in crashes. Now I've got those Cosmic Carbones I've been hankering for. Strangely enough, and disappointingly, they don't seem to make me any faster.
But what about the prostitutes?
Do the LEW VT-1 wheels sitting behind me, right now, count as spiffy?
I know at <800g for the set, they do be quasi-lightweight.
That's about the same weight as my front wheel! Enjoy your double 1% advantage!alienator said:Do the LEW VT-1 wheels sitting behind me, right now, count as spiffy?
It all depends on how much money you can spare. I have this delima as well. I am a college student living off my parent's teet and a part time pizza delivery job that offers about 50 dollars a week to spare on my bike, so obviously I can't afford much. Nothing you buy will make you faster, but some upgrades are reasonable and will make your bike more durable among other things. Wheels are an obvious first, as well as drivetrain components. Unless you are an absolute hammer (very few people, myself not included, fit my description of an absolute hammer), you probably don't really need anything better than a decent 300 dollar set of wheels and a 105 group (The shifters, deraileurs, cassette, chain, and crank might go for 600 if you know where to look). A decent saddle will also run about 100 dollars or less - my Specialized Avatar was 75 and I love it. Aerobars are good if you're getting into triathlons or just want an aerodynamic position on the bike. Cyclocomputers and lights are other good ides, and most are fairly inexpensive. Beyond that, I like the idea of sticking with your current parts until they break down.
alienator said:But what about the prostitutes?
Do the LEW VT-1 wheels sitting behind me, right now, count as spiffy?
How goes your testing of these wheels? Any breakage? Do women throw their panties at you? Do share...
benkoostra said:
Well, just so you know, women throw their panties at me anyway. It's an accepted fact--as documented by 9 out of 10 dentists--that chicks dig me.
The testing will be commencing as soon as the Vittoria Pave's are in my hands and glued on and as soon as I have a video system. I just received the front wheel last Friday. The rear wheel is on the bike with a Vittoria EVO Corsa CX glued on. I must say, mounting was easy as the tire required no alignment after the initial mounting.
Dentists. Must they have a hand in everything?alienator said:Well, just so you know, women throw their panties at me anyway. It's an accepted fact--as documented by 9 out of 10 dentists--that chicks dig me.
The testing will be commencing as soon as the Vittoria Pave's are in my hands and glued on and as soon as I have a video system. I just received the front wheel last Friday. The rear wheel is on the bike with a Vittoria EVO Corsa CX glued on. I must say, mounting was easy as the tire required no alignment after the initial mounting.
Give us the full skinny on those wheels when you get a chance! I'm quite curious...
Yes, at least 111%!alienator said:Awesome! So you're saying that I can expect 1% + 1%......so an 11% improvement!
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