Tim Downie wrote:
> Whilst I'm resting a foot injury I've been doing a bit of cycling. I went
> out on my Halfords Apollo tdf 100 with my local triathlon club the other day
> and enjoyed it greatly.
>
> Of course, now I'm thinking about upgrades. ;-)
>
> The apollo rides well enough but has heavy steel forks on an alloy frame so
> I'm thinking of perhaps getting some carbon forks but I've heard that I
> might be better off upgrading the wheels first.
>
> Anyone out there with an apollo? Which would you upgrade first?
>
> Tim
Be wary of setting out on the upgrade path!
It's very easy to spend X on a fork, 2X on wheels, X on new handlebars,
X on carbon seatpin and new saddle, and then find that 5x = better part
of cost of new bike with all those parts on it.
Beyond the "good basic" level, each additional £100 you spend brings
more and more bling points, but possibly less and less actual benefit.
A reasonable beginners "club racing" machine can be put together/bought
for £600 - eg Giant OCR series bikes.
I'd start by checking that the bike is currently in good mechanical
order - i.e. it goes, stops well, changes gears smoothly, nothing is
worn out or currently broken. If not, start with sorting that stuff
out so that it's safe and reliable.
I'd then spend a couple of weeks getting the bike fit right. This might
take some new parts (stem/saddle/handlebars/whatever), but unless
you're an odd size or shape, or the bike is genuinely the wrong size
for you, it'll probably just take adjustments to what you've got.
There's lots of places on the web that can give advice on how to do
this.
Once this stuff is done, most of us find that the weakest link on the
bike is the engine, and it remains that way for quite a while. Even if
you intend to buy a new bike or some upgrades, I'd encourage you to get
this far before going shopping. It won't cost much (any?) money to do,
and you'll have a good idea of what you want fit-wise when you do hit
the shops.
Changing the fork might take off about 1lb. weight, but that's about
it. This won't make a huge difference to speed (greatest theoretical
difference is to make climbing a bit easier). Some people find a
carbon fork/bars/stem/seatpost makes the bike more comfortable and
seems to kill off "road buzz". I haven't noticed any huge differences
myself.
The accepted wisdom is that taking 1lb off the rotating parts of the
bike (wheels/tyres) is worth 2-4lb off the rest of the bike. I'd agree
with that.
I'd suggest attacking performance upgrades in the following order:
1. Fit of bike.
2. Brakes (again, may require new pads/cables, but may just need
setting up correctly)
3. Pedals/Shoes (Clipless system, if you're not already using them).
4. Tyres.
5. Wheels.
6. Anything else.
3 and 4 could/should be reversed.
This order has the advantage that you're doing the cheaper/easier stuff
first, and it's easy to bring any new bits (shoes, pedals, tyres,
wheels etc) with you to a new bike.
There are specific things that triathletes like their bikes to have, if
that's the direction you're going, principally saddle set right
forwards (possibly using a seatpost with no or even negative setback),
and aerobars. Your clubmates should are a good place to start for this
advice.
hth,
bookieb