Videoing from a moving Bike without too much shake?

[zzapper]

Hi,
At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
experience on reducing the shaking?

(By the way, the hand-held allowed me to continually adjust where the
camera was aiming)

--
zzapper
http://makemoneytips.org/

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10
@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, zzapper
[email protected] says...
> Hi,
> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> experience on reducing the shaking?
>
You can't really use a steadicam while riding a bike, but you can get a
bit of the effect by using an unextended monopod or tripod to simply add
inertia to the camera.

 

[Ian Jackson]

In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
zzapper <[email protected]> wrote:
>At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
>camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
>learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
>experience on reducing the shaking?

Fix the camera to the bike, or to your clothing ? Gaffer-tape or
string may do the trick.

Don't let the camera fall into the front wheel. I made that mistake
and the resulting faceplant was quite painful. (You can see the
video, which is quite startling, on my bikecam page.)

--
Ian Jackson personal email: <[email protected]>
These opinions are my own. http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~ijackson/
PGP2 key 1024R/0x23f5addb, fingerprint 5906F687 BD03ACAD 0D8E602E FCF37657

 

[zzapper]

On Mar 4, 2:44 am, Rob Morley <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10
> @s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, zzapper
> [email protected] says...> Hi,
> > At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> > camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> > learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> > experience on reducing the shaking?
>
> You can't really use a steadicam while riding a bike, but you can get a
> bit of the effect by using an unextended monopod or tripod to simply add
> inertia to the camera.

I think the worse effect was the simple bumping due to the road, I
will try cycling much slower and see if that helps

zzapper

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <yiz*[email protected]>, Ian Jackson
[email protected] says...
> In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
> zzapper <[email protected]> wrote:
> >At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> >camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> >learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> >experience on reducing the shaking?
>
> Fix the camera to the bike, or to your clothing ? Gaffer-tape or
> string may do the trick.
>
It's the bike that's transmitting road shock to the camera, so fixing it
more rigidly will only exacerbate the problem.

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <f7bdb4b7-0c12-4a37-88d3-4f72836c5540
@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>, zzapper
[email protected] says...
> On Mar 4, 2:44 am, Rob Morley <[email protected]> wrote:
> > In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10
> > @s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, zzapper
> > [email protected] says...> Hi,
> > > At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> > > camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> > > learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> > > experience on reducing the shaking?
> >
> > You can't really use a steadicam while riding a bike, but you can get a
> > bit of the effect by using an unextended monopod or tripod to simply add
> > inertia to the camera.
>
> I think the worse effect was the simple bumping due to the road, I
> will try cycling much slower and see if that helps
>
Make the camera more massive and the effect of your arm wobbling due to
road bumps will be reduced. I suppose it might wobble more with the
effort of holding a heavier camera, though.

 

[J. Chisholm]

Rob Morley wrote:
> In article <yiz*[email protected]>, Ian Jackson
> [email protected] says...
>> In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
>> zzapper <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
>>> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
>>> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
>>> experience on reducing the shaking?
>> Fix the camera to the bike, or to your clothing ? Gaffer-tape or
>> string may do the trick.
>>
> It's the bike that's transmitting road shock to the camera, so fixing it
> more rigidly will only exacerbate the problem.

I'd thought of using my handlebar bag. I'd line it with foam and then
tape the camera to an engineering brick. The foam would absorb the
shocks, and the brick would give extra inertia to the camera to stop
vibrations.
There is just one problem... I don't have a camera.

I've seen some of Ian's clips and they look scary, BUT I've also seen
film taken from a research camera in a car and that also looks much more
scary than driving.

Jim Chisholm

 

[PoB]

From the mad bastidge who did Red Web and other dodgy cycling videos...

http://www.digave.com/videos/how.htm

From another slightly less dodgy, but equally mad bastidge...

http://www.petefagerlin.com/helmetcam_video_how_to.htm

I love Pete's videos - whenever I feel a little jaded about cycling, I watch
some - pure fun

Cheers,

pOB

 

[bugbear]

J. Chisholm wrote:
> Rob Morley wrote:
>> In article <yiz*[email protected]>, Ian Jackson
>> [email protected] says...
>>> In article
>>> <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
>>> zzapper <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
>>>> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
>>>> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
>>>> experience on reducing the shaking?
>>> Fix the camera to the bike, or to your clothing ? Gaffer-tape or
>>> string may do the trick.
>>>
>> It's the bike that's transmitting road shock to the camera, so fixing
>> it more rigidly will only exacerbate the problem.
>
> I'd thought of using my handlebar bag. I'd line it with foam and then
> tape the camera to an engineering brick. The foam would absorb the
> shocks, and the brick would give extra inertia to the camera to stop
> vibrations.

Hmm. Clearly what's *wanted* is a bike mounted steadicam.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steadicam

Anything that can smooth out a running cameraman could *easily*
smooth out the ripple-vibration from a bike.

In fact, it would be overkill.

So I wonder, can a "lesser" (and cheaper...) steadicam be improvised
that's good enough for a camera mounted bike?

BugBear (who added some cross posting to photographic and engineering groups)

 

[bugbear]

bugbear wrote:
> Hmm. Clearly what's *wanted* is a bike mounted steadicam.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steadicam
>
> Anything that can smooth out a running cameraman could *easily*
> smooth out the ripple-vibration from a bike.
>
> In fact, it would be overkill.
>
> So I wonder, can a "lesser" (and cheaper...) steadicam be improvised
> that's good enough for a camera mounted bike?

Ah. Given the right keywords, all seaches
are simple:

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY:-Bicycle---Steady-Cam---mount/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Updated-Bicycle-mounted-steadicam/

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

zzapper wrote:
> Hi,
> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> experience on reducing the shaking?

Sample video; see rest of thread for details:

http://www.instructables.com/id/SBN78AEF0T5NWYB/

BugBear

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <[email protected]>, bugbear
bugbear@trim_papermule.co.uk_trim says...
> zzapper wrote:
> > Hi,
> > At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> > camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> > learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> > experience on reducing the shaking?
>
> Sample video; see rest of thread for details:
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/SBN78AEF0T5NWYB/
>
I thought he wanted to use the camera handheld.

 

[bugbear]

Rob Morley wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, bugbear
> bugbear@trim_papermule.co.uk_trim says...
>> zzapper wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
>>> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
>>> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
>>> experience on reducing the shaking?
>> Sample video; see rest of thread for details:
>>
>> http://www.instructables.com/id/SBN78AEF0T5NWYB/
>>
> I thought he wanted to use the camera handheld.

hmm. he did.

He'd need a "true" steadicam, then.

BugBear

 

[Ian Jackson]

In article <[email protected]>,
Rob Morley <[email protected]> wrote:
>It's the bike that's transmitting road shock to the camera, so fixing it
>more rigidly will only exacerbate the problem.

I think you'll find that this isn't the case. My first attempt at a
camera mount was very wobbly indeed. When I made the attachment more
rigid, the picture improved a lot.

If you hold it in your hand, I would expect slower but larger
oscillations, which is a problem because the spot you might want to
look at will wave in and out of the field of view. With a frame or
handlebar mount you do get some road vibration but it's fast and
small, leaving a comprehensible picture.

--
Ian Jackson personal email: <[email protected]>
These opinions are my own. http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~ijackson/
PGP2 key 1024R/0x23f5addb, fingerprint 5906F687 BD03ACAD 0D8E602E FCF37657

 

[NewRiderPS]

On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 09:43:15 +0000, "J. Chisholm" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Rob Morley wrote:
>> In article <yiz*[email protected]>, Ian Jackson
>> [email protected] says...
>>> In article <16fdc451-7ec5-4017-89a4-9b762965da10@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
>>> zzapper <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
>>>> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
>>>> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
>>>> experience on reducing the shaking?
>>> Fix the camera to the bike, or to your clothing ? Gaffer-tape or
>>> string may do the trick.
>>>
>> It's the bike that's transmitting road shock to the camera, so fixing it
>> more rigidly will only exacerbate the problem.
>
>I'd thought of using my handlebar bag. I'd line it with foam and then
>tape the camera to an engineering brick. The foam would absorb the
>shocks, and the brick would give extra inertia to the camera to stop
>vibrations.
>There is just one problem... I don't have a camera.
>
>I've seen some of Ian's clips and they look scary, BUT I've also seen
>film taken from a research camera in a car and that also looks much more
>scary than driving.
>
>Jim Chisholm

I've successfully used a CVS digital camera with ~500meg of storage
and a gorrilla pod grab mount.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/gorilla-pod/

My cam, retailing for under $100 US, did not even have a mounting
screw. A few strips of duct tape and it was very securely taped to the
side of the mount plate.

Better resolution and 60min of storage, try the Flip Video Ultra
Series Camcorder. ~$125-150US.
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&search-alias=photo&field-brandtextbin=Pure Digital

The Ultra has the better resolution, from what I've read. The
non-ultra is just standard, so prob best to skip that one, though my
rez is good enough to read a licence plate at 10 feet. Beyond that
it's blurry.

However these cheap point and shoot cams are everywhere now, back when
I bought mine it was just released as the next step up from the CVS
pharmacy camera that required turning in the whole camera for in-store
processing. The next step allowed downloading to your PC, and included
a USB port.

Invest in a USB extension cable - the flip connection is a bit dicey
hanging off the PC.

 

[NewRiderPS]

On 05 Mar 2008 15:44:55 +0000 (GMT), Ian Jackson
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>Rob Morley <[email protected]> wrote:
>>It's the bike that's transmitting road shock to the camera, so fixing it
>>more rigidly will only exacerbate the problem.
>
>I think you'll find that this isn't the case. My first attempt at a
>camera mount was very wobbly indeed. When I made the attachment more
>rigid, the picture improved a lot.
>
>If you hold it in your hand, I would expect slower but larger
>oscillations, which is a problem because the spot you might want to
>look at will wave in and out of the field of view. With a frame or
>handlebar mount you do get some road vibration but it's fast and
>small, leaving a comprehensible picture.

The relatively rigid Gorilla Pod mount I cobbled together, upon review
is every bit as stable as the steadicam. I can even tap the camera and
point up or down to adjust with ease. It may be the multiple arms
spread out any vibration. Of course a down side is that you can hear
some sort of tire buzz, but who listens to audio (and wind noise) with
these?

In addition it's trivial to slap it on and take it off, though it's a
little bulky. Just get the smallest model with the 4" arms.

I do get sway when I stand to pedal, but it's not distracting or
vertiginous.

 

[NewRiderPS]

On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 14:26:20 +0000, bugbear
<bugbear@trim_papermule.co.uk_trim> wrote:

>Rob Morley wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, bugbear
>> bugbear@trim_papermule.co.uk_trim says...
>>> zzapper wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
>>>> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
>>>> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
>>>> experience on reducing the shaking?
>>> Sample video; see rest of thread for details:
>>>
>>> http://www.instructables.com/id/SBN78AEF0T5NWYB/
>>>
>> I thought he wanted to use the camera handheld.
>
>hmm. he did.
>
>He'd need a "true" steadicam, then.
>
> BugBear

How about a half upper body plaster cast with strut? LOL.

 

[Simon Brooke]

zzapper wrote:

> Hi,
> At the weekend I wanted to film from my bike using a simple hand-held
> camera. Well I decided that the results were just too shaky. I also
> learnt that I needed to cycle slower, that I can correct, but any tips/
> experience on reducing the shaking?

Helmet mounted camera. Your neck is extremely good at damping out shaking.
The mountain bike films here
http://www.7stanes.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-5S6EYZ are mostly taken with helmet
cameras, and as you can see there's little shake, even at high speed on
viciously uneven surfaces.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

Wise man with foot in mouth use opportunity to clean toes.
;; the Worlock