...I have a 46 tooth wheel on my old bike (largest size) but the new bike I am switching to only has 42.
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It looks like I can't swap the old wheel to the new bike. But does anybody know what the new chain wheel is by the pictures, and where online I might buy a larger wheel that would fit it and could be swapped? I have seen YouTube videos where they say you can do it without even removing the pedal sometimes, provided you find the right replacement and of course raise the chain mechanism higher.
But my biggest problem is finding the piece I think.
FWIW ....
First. I don't know why you feel that you can't swap the rear wheel from your old bike to your new bike ..
Granted, the RALEIGH appears to have an
8-speed Cassette, but ...
For all intents-and-purposes, the
indexing on your new bike is close-enough to be considered the same (
i.e., it's compatible) ...
You will possibly need to adjust both of the rear derailleur's STOPS & lose the use of either the largest-or-smallest Cog (presumably, you would choose to "lose" the use of the largest Cog ... alternatively, working on the presumption that your "new" bike has a 7-speed Freewheel, you could replace the old Cassette with a new 7-speed Cassette), but you would immediately have a slightly taller high gear (42-12 instead of presumably 42-13).
In fact, with the exception of the seatpost (
it may-or-may-not be the same size) and the front derailleur (
because the clamps probably are two different sizes), you can theoretically swap EVERYTHING else from your
Raleigh to you
Montague, and vice-versa ...
Looking at the SunRace crankset on your new bike, it appears that ALL THREE (
probably steel ... probably suitable for use as a small BOAT ANCHOR!) chainrings & guard may be a single unit which is held in place by the four, removable (
?) chainring bolts which are holding the assembly onto the spider. A relatively minor problem with the design is that it appears that you would need to remove the driveside crank arm to remove its spider ... whether or not the splines do anything other than facilitate assembly at the factory or whether the splines may actually be functional in securing the chainrings even though they do not appear to be 'crimped' the way they are on Shimano's cranks is not readily evident from the picture ...
YOU will need to buy a crank puller ... I recommend the older style Park Tool crank remover which is designed to be used with cranks which mate to square taper BB spindles ... ~$20.
YOU will also need a "Shimano"-compatible Cartridge BB remover ... the price varies ... $10-$20+ ... if in doubt & you have the option, choose one which can also handle an ISIS BB (i.e., it will be a 'deeper' socket).
That's a long way of saying that while I reckon that it is probably possible to put a
46t-or-
48t 104BCD chaniring on the particular crankset, you will also need a separate 32-or-34t middle chainring + a Granny (
if you want one).
The spider presumably has two more tabs which may-or-may-not need to be drilled to accept the chainring bolts ...
Which means that it would probably be cost effective to simply buy a replacement crankset & BB (
at this point, I recommend you consider a Shimano Hollowtech II or FSA MegaExo (which is compatible with the Shimano Hollowtech II) crankset & BB) ...
Shimano's Hollowtech II BB cups require yet ANOTHER tool ...
The threading on the MegaExo BB cups has a infinitesimally smaller OD, and it seems that they can often be threaded-and-tightened without a tool!?!
BTW, the non-driveside cup has a LEFT HAND THREAD on all English threaded BBs.
The only other tools you should need are a set of METRIC Allen Wrenches ... generic
/(
$2 per set) Metric Allen Wrenches will be good enough ...
ROAD bike brake levers typically need either an Allen Wrench or Torx Wrench which has a longer (4+") shaft.
If you decide not to swap the one crankset & BB for the other AND if you never use the Granny chainring then YOU may want to consider a ROAD crankset (
53/39, 52/39, 50/34, etc.) & matching BB ...
There are MORE price-range options if you choose a ROAD crankset.
FYI. The Raleigh's older, SunTour crank probably uses a 113mm asymmetrical spindle ... and, the SunRace crank probably uses a symmetrical spindle.
So, IMO, there are a few options which require varying levels of skill ...
- swap rear wheel from the one bike to the other ... skill level may involve adjusting the rear derailleur's STOPS & possibly tweaking the indexing (there are MANY online resources which can walk you through the processes) ... this is the "can" with the fewest worms ...
- either swap the cranksets OR simply replace the SunRace crankset with any ROAD crankset & BB which you will buy off of eBay (and, re-sell the SunRace crank & BB for $10+ plus shipping to whomever OR set aside in a box for some future project) ... the required skill level is modest & it's mostly a matter of having the components you want to use + the tools ...
- in either case, you will need a crank puller (get the older style PARK TOOL crank puller which is designed for square taper BB spindles)
- I would strongly consider a Shimano Hollowtech II compatible crank (or, compatible FSA MegaExo crankset & BB) which uses "external" BB cups just because you may not need an installation if you opt for the FSA BB cups (again, the threads on FSA's MegaExo cups are often-or-always machined with a slightly smaller OD than Shimano's equivalent Hollowtech II BB cups). Expect to pay $50-to-many-hundred depending on the model you choose-and-buy and where you choose to buy any components from.
- you can re-lace the rear wheel on a Shimano/-compatible MTB Freehub ... cost can be <$60 if you DIY and choose one of Shimano's less expensive hubs & Cassettes AND as long as you buy the parts off of eBay. The required skill level is comparatively high for most people.
Really, IMO, the bottom line is that
if the frame is the same as on the more expensive variants,
then in the worst-case-scenario, the lesser components are really only an inconvenience (
remember, they can ALL be replaced on an as-needed basis OR when the spirit moves you ...) AND (
consequently)
I don't think that you need to have any
buyer's remorse over the choice of the
base model vs. one of the more expensive variants.