Want to start cycling but I have no store nearby.

[redmarkerdown]

I live in a small small town, and the nearest store is a good 100+miles.

With this problem in mind my research has been pointless since I keep getting advice to fit a bike at a store and buy the best fit(for the most part). So I was hoping as basically a second to last resort if someone here could help.

What I want is a road bike under $700.00usd. I'm 5'10'', 120lbs and not going to change anytime soon. As far as other info you might need, I don't know what it would be, but I am more than willing to give it to you.

Thank You

 

[willocrew]

What I want is a road bike under $700.00usd.

Well for $700 you don't really have much in the way of options cuz getting good bargains really involve visiting various shops checking the price, check for sizes stock and trying it out.

There are definitely $700 bikes out there 2nd hand which are really good value. But getting these deals would really invovlve you taking the time out looking around...

As for fit, make sure you're aware of all the size difference between brands... etc giant longer top tube... cuz you may be an M for bike A but a S for bike B...etc,

 

[janiejones]

The Lemond Bicycle website has some good info on sizing - better still do you have many friends who ride, check out their size bikes, ask them for a ride - espeically on the cheaper models - because that's what you'll be looking for.

Ebay can be an alright place to get a cheap bike - some are good, some bad - but if you start cheap you will soon learn what you need and don't need.

So good luck. At least it sounds as though you have plenty of space to ride.

 

[mnr3]

I live in a small small town, and the nearest store is a good 100+miles.

With this problem in mind my research has been pointless since I keep getting advice to fit a bike at a store and buy the best fit(for the most part). So I was hoping as basically a second to last resort if someone here could help.

What I want is a road bike under $700.00usd. I'm 5'10'', 120lbs and not going to change anytime soon. As far as other info you might need, I don't know what it would be, but I am more than willing to give it to you.

Thank You

colorado cyclist and wrench science and few other sites have pretty good on-line advice for sizing as well; google "bike fit" and you 'll get plenty of info to narrow the field, then just be sure of how the frame is measured. the 2 critical dimensions are seat tube and the top tube, the first for you leg extension, the second for your torso; it helps to know if you have an average, short or long leg for your height, meaning the length of your torso is relatively long or short.
a used bike can be good deal, esp. if it has low miles. you can always slap new tires and cables on it. I wouldn't ebay unless you really know what you're doing and what you want. get something as local as you can.

 

[graf zeppelin]

Welcome to the sport! Soon at least.

You could also try this online fit calculator so you at least have some ballpark figures to work with:

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

The results from here are decent and I would not recommend buying a bike without at least having a rough starting point to guage minimally what size frame and a few other details you'll be needing. If you buy a used bike, inquire as to the frame dimensions and components as much as possible and compare to your results to see if it closely matches what you are looking for. Fit is so important.

I'd also recommend somehow arranging to make a road trip to the nearest decent store (too bad its so far) so you can talk to someone in person, see the bikes and get a feel also for the kinds of things you like. Call first and you may be able to get fit while you are there and if they are a decent fitter, nothing you do in cycling would be more important than this starting point.

Finally, $700 for a road bike is indeed a tight budget. You could get a good new road bike probably for around $1200, depending on what is on it. Felt, Specialized and Trek probably have 105 starter bikes in this range and less. Its been so long since I shopped this way so I might be a tad off on pricing. You'll want Shimano 105 ideally if you can, but you shouldnt need more than that for a first bike. A call into that shop to talk to them over the phone might yield some more info in this department, depending on what brands they carry. Many shops will fit you for free if you buy the bike from them.

You could get a decent road bike for $700 used. Try in roadbikereview.com classifieds as well as eBay. It would be harder to get the exact sizing you want this way, but try the online fitters, call a shop to talk to someone about anything and everything they will tell you so you are armed with the things you want and the questions you need to ask a seller.

Best of luck!

 

[John M]

I live in a small small town, and the nearest store is a good 100+miles.

With this problem in mind my research has been pointless since I keep getting advice to fit a bike at a store and buy the best fit(for the most part). So I was hoping as basically a second to last resort if someone here could help.

What I want is a road bike under $700.00usd. I'm 5'10'', 120lbs and not going to change anytime soon. As far as other info you might need, I don't know what it would be, but I am more than willing to give it to you.

Thank You

I grew up in NW Iowa. It was common to have to drive a ways to get things (such as bicycles) that weren't available in town. It will be worth it to you to take a couple of weekend days to make the few hour drive to get some decent help with the bike.

What I would suggest is to use the online calculators to get a rough idea of what size bike you will need (for someone 5"10", probably somewhere between 54-58cm depending on the individual frame and your proportions), call the bike shop, speak with the owner/manager, tell him that you are coming from out to town to BUY a bicycle, give him/her as accurate description as possible of your planned riding style and budget, and ask him to have some bikes ready for you to try. A good shop will make sure that they have several models in your price range (and perhaps a little above or below for comparisons sake) and size range ready to try, and they will be ready to spend some time with you to make sure that you get what you need/want. When you go, dress properly for testing bikes (no jeans or work shoes). And don't forget to buy a helmet if you don't already have one.

If the shop doesn't have at least a few options for you, call someone else.

Good luck.

 

[redmarkerdown]

I've got an average of the sizes thanks to those sites and google. What are some acceptable brands in those price ranges so I can check out their sites.

 

[gclark8]

A couple of suggestions:

Giant have a self fit page: http://www.giant-bicycle.com/us/050.000.000/050.600.100.asp pick you size from there.

Alternate, contact the Head Office of some of the larger bicycle companies (Giant, Specialized, Trek, Felt, etc) and find out if their sales rep can call through you town on the way to some place larger. He will have all the bike fit data with him and know what is available.

I find the manufacturers reps more knowledgeable than the bike shops.

 

[mnr3]

I've got an average of the sizes thanks to those sites and google. What are some acceptable brands in those price ranges so I can check out their sites.

you'll find that by and large in the same price range the bikes are pretty close, so brand is not a huge factor; for a given use, from racing to riding gravel paths, the same type of model will have the same type and possibly brand of components, you just have to look at who saved money where--they migh throw in a derailleur or shifters from a nicer group, but sub a cheaper house brand brake or crank--, and above all that the sizes offered for a given model will fit you, including if the shop is willing to substitute a stem size if you are outside the average range.
I did notice that you are on the (very) slim side, at just 120 lbs for 5'10", meaning that all things being equal you should choose a more compliant frame material and design (big fat tubes and all aluminum are nice and stiff for big guys, a bit of a jackhammer for small, lighter riders).
if that was a typo and you're 210 lbs then the oversized aluminum bikes would be more appropriate good luck

 

[redmarkerdown]

you'll find that by and large in the same price range the bikes are pretty close, so brand is not a huge factor; for a given use, from racing to riding gravel paths, the same type of model will have the same type and possibly brand of components, you just have to look at who saved money where--they migh throw in a derailleur or shifters from a nicer group, but sub a cheaper house brand brake or crank--, and above all that the sizes offered for a given model will fit you, including if the shop is willing to substitute a stem size if you are outside the average range.
I did notice that you are on the (very) slim side, at just 120 lbs for 5'10", meaning that all things being equal you should choose a more compliant frame material and design (big fat tubes and all aluminum are nice and stiff for big guys, a bit of a jackhammer for small, lighter riders).
if that was a typo and you're 210 lbs then the oversized aluminum bikes would be more appropriate good luck

I'm 120lbs and I am 16 years old as an explanation. Anyways since I am not 210 could you rewrite that last sentence for me now so I can get what your trying to say.

Thanks

 

[willocrew]

hahah sorry i'm not used to thinking in lbs... i'm into Kgs...
Redmarkerdown are you a guy or girl?

I would suggest you buy a bike from a bike store instead of online, so you can get a proper fit. Also please squeeze every information you can get out of the shop people. Most of them are friendly and willing to have chats. Find out how to pump tyres, operate your wheels quick release.. clean, lubricating, drill holes ... kidding on the drilling part... but really try to learn as much as possible. Of course you could read it off the net... but nothing beats someone showing you.

As for bike brands, as mnr3 mentioned, they're there and abouts in terms of quality. But some brands are cheaper for the same kind of stuff you're going to get.

 

[RickF]

Finally, $700 for a road bike is indeed a tight budget. You could get a good new road bike probably for around $1200, depending on what is on it. Felt, Specialized and Trek probably have 105 starter bikes in this range and less. Its been so long since I shopped this way so I might be a tad off on pricing. You'll want Shimano 105 ideally if you can, but you shouldnt need more than that for a first bike.

You are correct that you will have to spend about $1200 to get a new bike with 105 components. The Specialized Allez has a mix of Sora and Tiagra for $710 (http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=12390). The Trek 1000 has a mix of 2202 and Tiagra for $710 (http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike.php?bikeid=1413000&f=4). The Felt F90 has a mix of Sora and Tiagra for $699 (http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_bikes/f90/spec.html).

The real trick, after you figure out the correct size, is to find any of these available on-line. Most of the major brands do not authorize on-line sales because they know that fit is everything. They do not want people complaining about the bike when the problem is that the user bought the wrong size and it was not set up properly; therefore, they only sell through brick and morter stores where there is someone who knows how to fit a bike. Even the large on-line stores like Performance.com only sell their house brands and the department store brands on-line. You have to visit the store to get Giant, or Specialied. If you are able to by on-line, you might have problems getting companies like Trek, Specialized, Felt, Giant, and Cannondale to honor the warranty. Warranties for these (and many other) companies are handled only through authorized dealers.

Most of the manufacturer's sites have a dealer locator on their web site. If you put in your address, they will show the dealers nearest you. You might be surprized at what you find. For a list of all of the major manufacturers' web sites, check out http://www.bicycleresources.com/products/bikeframe.php

 

[mnr3]

I'm 120lbs and I am 16 years old as an explanation. Anyways since I am not 210 could you rewrite that last sentence for me now so I can get what your trying to say.

Thanks

I'll try to put it simply: there is a lot of hype about getting the stiffest frame possible in the name of efficiency--what energy you put into the pedals is not wasted in flexing the frame, etc. but it's obvious that a huge guy on a huge frame will flex his frame more than a 5'2" 100lb guy on a tiny frame, both because he is lighter and putting out less power, but also because a smaller frame, made with the same tubing, will be stiffer (think about trying to bend a pipe that's 2 inches long versus one that's 4 feet long). now, if you're riding a one minute kilometer on the track, then you want a stiff, unforgiving frame, but if you want to put 2-4 hours in the saddle, a frame that is too stiff for your weight and roads will beat the **** out of you, and you would be better served by giving up a little efficiency for some comfort--and don't worry about so-called wasted energy, because it is tiny, tiny, compared to the wind and road drag, and it's energy you will recoup at the end of a long ride when you don't feel like you've been operating a jack hammer all day. if efficiency were the only thing that mattered, you would not see mountain bike racers using front shocks, much less full suspension.
so, to make my long story short: at your weight, you don't need the stiffest frame available in your price range, where the oversized (that is, the tubes are oversized, big and fat) aluminum frame is probably the dominant offering. a good steel frame will serve you probably as well (though it will be a few ounces heavier), and tubes that are closer to a "normal" size (about an inch and a half, and not 2+ inches) will be a bit more flexy, but some of us smaller guys prefer that springiness, which we call, to make it sound good, "lively". but I'll repeat again that no matter what kind of frame you have, it's got to fit, that is way more important than any other factor, so do your homework about what bikes you can get a look at, even at a distance: the 3-4 hours you spend in the car looking will be nothing compared to the hours you'll spend on the bike. and do the call ahead thing as someone above mentioned, letting them know your inseam measurement, height and weight, (and even the road conditions, if they are unpaved or really rough) and they should be able to line up some good choices for you. good luck

 

[redmarkerdown]

Since store are scarce where I live I thought it might be a wise idea to have a good 5 models for an idea hopefully so I don't end up driving all around the state.

 

[mnr3]

Since store are scarce where I live I thought it might be a wise idea to have a good 5 models for an idea hopefully so I don't end up driving all around the state.

do what someone above said: a dealer look up on the manufacturer web site. you ought to be able to find a town that has 2 bike shops and they inevitably will carry different brands (and will probably say that the other guy's brands are **** or overpriced, but don't believe it: having done your homework you'll know better) what state are you in or close to? some forum members might be able to recommend reputable shops, and that's really more important than the brands. a college town will usually have a shop even if it is a small town--and summer is a slow period for them to boot

I did find a steelie in your price range, for comparison (since the bikes suggested above are all aluminum, which is typical in this price range, since they do give the lightest frame for the buck). anyway, the following bike is a jamis, a brand known for being pretty good value:
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/06_satellite.html

really, it makes more sense to find a city that has a couple of shops and find out which brands they have (that is, find the shop first, then the brand, not the other way around), as you'll see there is not a whole lot of difference between the bikes in a given price range (except the paint job, and looks are everything!), and you'll forget it all once you've logged some miles

 

[redmarkerdown]

I live in Hastings in south central Nebraska I know there isn't a shop here but I was thinking my best bet would be Lincoln or Omaha

 

[alfeng]

I'm 120lbs and I am 16 years old as an explanation. Anyways since I am not 210 could you rewrite that last sentence for me now so I can get what your trying to say.

Thanks

Are you in the lower-48?

If so, here's a new, double-butted Reynolds 520 steel-framed bike for you to consider:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ROAD-BIKE-SHIMANO-105-27-SPD-REYNOLDS-FRAME-FORK_W0QQitemZ7244780884QQcategoryZ98084QQcmdZViewItem​

The attached picture appears to be about a 52cm frame with the seatpost possibly adjusted for someone about your height, or taller ...

As stupid as it may sound, PART of frame fitting is cosmetic ... how much seatpost that you want exposed:

• a lot (like a professional racer)
• a little (what used to be "tourist" style ... but that was more an outcome of providing a higher stem/handlebar height)
• or, in-between.

The owner of a high end bike where I live tends to steer his customers to frame sizes 2cm larger than the current "norm." One guy I know who spent ~$4500+ a couple of years ago on a high-zoot bike now wishes he had bought a 56cm frame (he is about YOUR current height).

The odds are pretty high that you'll actually grow another inch-or-two in the next couple of years ... I reckon that a 56cm frame will probably be best for someone your height UNLESS you have an older brother who is already in the 6 foot range in which case a 58cm frame may serve you better over the coming years. Without knowing your inseam size, I nonetheless reckon that a 56cm frame will put the top of the saddle about 7 inches above the top tube at your current height ... which equates to about 5+ inches of exposed seatpost (an "in-between" amount of seatpost exposure).

It is easier to raise the seatpost & adjust the stem/handlebars on a frame that is one size smaller than to struggle with a frame that is too large.

I'm 5'9" ... my current frame sizes are 52cm (c-c) & 53cm (c-c) ... top tube length is ~54cm with 120mm stem ... one of the previous frames which I used to ride is a 56cm (fast-touring) whose top tube was ~57cm frame with a 90mm stem ... so the overal reach (cockpit) is essentially the same (handlebar reaches vary from brand to brand) ... and, the final "fit" of my current frames is essentially the same now as in the past ...

I believe that the Shimano 4400 shifters are Tiagra-level ...

You'll need a minimum amount of tools to put the bike together ... a 5mm Allen wrench. You'll either need a pump designed for Presta valves OR an adapter to inflate the tires.

The bike (with pedals -- a pair is included which will be useable ... you'll eventually want clipless pedals & all the other paraphenalia) will weigh about 22 lbs. -- maybe, a little more OR a little less -- that will seem porky to some people, but it really isn't that heavy.

I think it is a bike which will serve you well for many years ...

The ONLY thing I would change (and, this is a matter of personal preference because I am riding on mountain roads vs. flats) are the shifters ... I would sell the Shimano shifters on eBay (okay, you'll probably have to have a parent open an account, etc.) and buy a pair of Campagnolo Mirage or Veloce shifters (also, from eBay) as replacements. You would/should probably be able to sell the Shimano shifters for more than it would cost to buy the Campagnolo shifters that I mentioned ... the premium pricing for Shimano over Campagnolo on eBay is mostly a matter of marketing (or, lack of).

A helmet is an essential accessory ...

BTW. Someone asked me how Spratt could sell the bikes for so little compared with an LBS -- she has less overhead ... no brick & mortar store which needs to be staffed ... no excess inventory (spare parts & doodahs) which need to be kept in stock, no hardcopy catalog ... and, volume of sales (consistent cashflow) probably provides more income than one-or-two sales a week; and, I think the bike she sells may be drop-shipped from the distributor's warehouse.

Because you will probably NOT be taking your new bike back to a shop to have it serviced, there is little benefit in buying based on the service you will be receiving. Bicycle maintenance is not difficult ... a minimum amount of bike-specific tools may be required for some maintenance or repairs.

The PARTS on most bikes come from only a few sources, now ... and the frames come from only a few sources UNLESS you buy something really high end -- you know, that VW & Audi aren't that different ... some Ford & Mercury models probably come off the same assembly lines on-different-days ... other than the name plates and some minor cosmetic differences, how much difference do you think there is between a Chevy truck and one sold by a GMC dealer?

I'm partial to steel (most "custom" bikes are still made with steel, FWIW), so Spratt's Mercier is the bike I would be looking at if I wanted a new bike & was working with your budget.

 

[RickF]

You are in luck. Wayne Cyclery in Grand Island, NE (http://www.waynecyclery.com) carries Trek, Giant and Raleigh, and it is only about 25 miles from Hastings. Kearney Cycling and Fitness in Kearney carries Trek and Cannondale (http://www.kearney-cycling-fitness.com/), and they are only about 35 miles away. There is also a store called Bike Shed in Kearney. I do not know what they cary, but you can call them 308-234-2453 to find out. I suspect they will have something different from what Kearney Cycling has. There are at least 14 bicycle shops in Lincoln, so there is no need to go all the way to Omaha.

Go to www.switchboard.com, and search for bicycle dealers in any city you want. The list for Lincoln is http://www.switchboard.com/bin/cgidir.dll?cid=94&MEM=1&PR=133&ST=1&SD=&VL=&QV=D007803EA73D43679C978FC40D76F6A0l02A8D27113F91D43DA303203O019EF73EE630984463303203O031D2D3DD8369844C1CF3203&KW=Bicycles-Dealers&LO=Lincoln%2C+NE&search.x=0&search.y=0. I do not know anything about any of these dealers, but at least you have their phone number and address and an idea of what you want, so start calling. If it was me, I would start in Grand Island.

 

[mnr3]

I'm 5'9" ... my current frame sizes are 52cm (c-c) & 53cm (c-c) ... top tube length is ~54cm with 120mm stem ....


The bike (with pedals -- a pair is included which will be useable ... you'll eventually want clipless pedals & all the other paraphenalia) will weigh about 22 lbs. -- maybe, a little more OR a little less -- that will seem porky to some people, but it really isn't that heavy.

I think it is a bike which will serve you well for many years ...

well, that's interesting: I'm 5'9" and ride a 52 c-c as well, with a 54 tt and 130mm stem, hmm. don't know about you, but my legs are on the short side for my height (close to 80 cm).

(note to redmarkerdown: if this all seems greek to you, don't worry, you'll get it. did you get a chance to read the "sticky" on frame sizing? it explains some of these terms. basically, the old system of sizing assumed you had a horizontal top tube--that is, it's parallel to the ground and not sloping like a mountain bike or a Giant brand bike and many others. so you measure the frame size along the seat tube from the center of the bottom bracket (crank axle) to the point where the top tube intersects it, either in the middle of that tube--the center, or the top of the tube, so you get center-to-center or center-to-top measurements, that people express as c-c or c-t, with the c-t usually a centimeter or so larger; but as you will find out, the extension of your upper body is almost more important, or at least a bit harder to fix if the frame is the wrong size. you can always jack up a longer seat post (though nowadays you can't raise your handlebar as easily), but slap a super long stem for better reach and the handling of your bike will be crazy, both from too much weight forward and that long lever of a stem)

anyway, a 22 lb bike would be a porker for anyone with a $1000 and up racing bike, but will feel like a formula one to anyone who has never had a good bike, which is why I would second the recommendation (again) for steel. I had a Cannondale about 15 years ago that was light, and stiff, and efficient--and beat me up on anything other than smooth roads, because my 52c-c is a fairly small frame, and that probably has something to do with alfeng's endorsement of steel too. it's like I said, big guys who mash pedals will probably call steel flexy and whippy, but lots of us call them lively, resilient and with much better "road feel". but if all you can find is aluminum, it's not the end of the world either; it will be a tad lighter (but you can bend steel without it breaking, not so with aluminum). you are young and will have a base line for comparison when you go shopping for your NEXT bike, because there will be one, one day!
I'm not familiar with your area, but check out the college towns, like I said. I wouldn't totally disagree with alfeng's recommendation on the mercier-internet bike (I've considered ordering from them too), but there is something to be said for the service you get in shop (if it is a good one), call it hand-holding if you will, that experienced riders like alfeng and I don't really need--we know what we want--but that beginners can use, not just sizing, but bike set-up, explanation of all the parts (how to close a quick release!), shifting, etc. good luck