Ways to use a heart rate monitor you might not have thought of.

[Rock Creek Rider]

Or maybe you have. We'll find out right now.
I believe that for every person there is a cadence where their body works most efficiently. I don't rule out the possibility that it changes with gradient, though I can see no logical reason why it should. Anyway, if you have a good indoor trainer, the kind you put your bike on, a heart rate monitor and a way of monitoring both your speed and cadence, you can figure out what cadence your body likes. After warming up, pick a speed where your heart rate stabilizes around 83% of your maximum heart rate. Now, while maintaining that speed, change gears and see how your heart rate changes, being sure with each gear change to let your heart rate stabilize again. When you find the gear where your heart rate is lowest, note what your cadence is. This is the cadence your body likes.
You can also use a heart rate monitor to see if you are in the most efficient gear, outdoors. Say you are on a long climb, Left Hand Canyon, for instance, if you live in my area. While trying to maintain a steady speed, play with gearing to see which gear gives you the lowest heart rate. This will be your most efficient gear choice. You might think that you don't need a heart rate monitor to be able to tell which is the best gear, and you could be right, but I can tell you from experience that you might be surprised. The gear that you think you feel most comfortable in isn't necessarily the one that gives you the lowest heart rate. Something you can play around with, anyway.

 

[BrianNystrom]

After 45+ years of riding, I've found that my most efficient cadence varies with the gear ratio. My average cadence is right around 90 rpm. Lower gears work best for me with with a lower cadence. When I'm in a big gear, I find that a higher cadence is necessary to "stay on top or it". On a typical ride with some hills in it, my cadence will vary between 70 and 110, though I sometimes go lower (climbing out of the saddle) or higher (bombing descents).

This is my personal experience and as the saying goes, "your mileage may vary".

 

[Rock Creek Rider]

After 45+ years of riding, I've found that my most efficient cadence varies with the gear ratio. My average cadence is right around 90 rpm. Lower gears work best for me with with a lower cadence. When I'm in a big gear, I find that a higher cadence is necessary to "stay on top or it". On a typical ride with some hills in it, my cadence will vary between 70 and 110, though I sometimes go lower (climbing out of the saddle) or higher (bombing descents).

This is my personal experience and as the saying goes, "your mileage may vary".

My 60- years of seat-of-the-pants cycling experience agrees with you, but seat of the pants isn't always correct and I still think there is cadence or cadence range where you are most efficient. When I'm completely healed and the weather turns more consistently nice, I'll do a some experimenting on my own and see if there is any truth to my theory or I'm full of ****.

 

[BrianNystrom]

There's no right or wrong here, which is why I emphasized that this is my experience. Perhaps your body works better in a narrower cadence band. If you watch the pros, you'll see a fair amount of variation and these are the best riders on the planet.

 

[BRITANY]

There's no right or wrong here, which is why I emphasized that this is my experience. Perhaps your body works better in a narrower cadence band. If you watch the pros, you'll see a fair amount of variation and these are the best riders on the planet.

On a typical ride with some hills in it, my cadence will vary between 70 and 110, though I sometimes go lower (climbing out of the saddle) or higher (bombing descents).

 

[BRITANY]

On a typical ride with some hills in it, my cadence will vary between 70 and 110, though I sometimes jiofi.local.html go lower (climbing out of the saddle) or higher (bombing descents).

There's no right or wrong here, which is why I emphasized that this is my experience. Perhaps your body works better in a narrower cadence band. If you watch the pros, you'll see a fair amount of variation and these are the best riders on the planet.

 

[cobbwheels]

I also use a heart rate monitor to cook rice. Wait... no, I think it was a rice cooker that I use to cook rice!

There's no right or wrong here, which is why I emphasized that this is my experience. Perhaps your body works better in a narrower cadence band. If you watch the pros, you'll see a fair amount of variation and these are the best riders on the planet.

True. When pros pedal at high cadence, this has more to do with their power output. Your power output or FTP must set the cadence, NOT the other way around. Since pros vary their power output, they will also vary their cadence.

Generally, high cadence is more efficient at higher power output while lower cadence is more efficient at lower power output.

What many recreational riders do by mistake is copying the high cadence rpm of pros but doing it at much lower power output. That makes it inefficient.

 

[rovelo]

I'm sure I read that the most efficient cadence in terms of energy expenditure vs distance traveled is around 60-70rpm. Most people just ride at what they're comfortable with.

I personally hover around 90-110, but my limit is where my muscles are just short of hurting. For example if my cadence is 100 and I can feel my legs starting to burn, I shift down. Likewise if my legs are spinning and my hips are rocking, I shift up.

As with all things you can train your body to work at different cadences. If 75% of my maximum heart rate is the most efficient, but I then train at 85%, I'll be able to maintain it for longer and then 85% will be the most efficient .

 

[cobbwheels]

I'm sure I read that the most efficient cadence in terms of energy expenditure vs distance traveled is around 60-70rpm. Most people just ride at what they're comfortable with.

I personally hover around 90-110, but my limit is where my muscles are just short of hurting. For example if my cadence is 100 and I can feel my legs starting to burn, I shift down. Likewise if my legs are spinning and my hips are rocking, I shift up.

As with all things you can train your body to work at different cadences. If 75% of my maximum heart rate is the most efficient, but I then train at 85%, I'll be able to maintain it for longer and then 85% will be the most efficient .

I don't pay attention to my cadence but calculating my cadence based on speed and gear used, I have a comfortable cadence range of 65 to 94 rpm. 86 rpm on long climbs.

I do long, non-stop rides every Saturday morning without eating nor drinking in hot and very humid tropical climate. The rides are about 3 hrs to 6 hrs long nonstop.

I have to be in the most efficient pedaling form or else, I could bonk or dehydrate. I do it without a computer, not even a heart rate monitor. Everything by feel and how hard I breathe.

It's a crazy dangerous way to exercise but I have adapted and become comfortable to it. Diving straight to this exercise without adaptations can be fatal.

 

[Mr. Beanz]

I just started using a heart rate monitor couple months back. 10 years ago I never felt the need to worry about or even think about heart rate. I would just ride my butt off pushing myself to the limits without thinking about anything other than feeling my organs wanting to shoot out of my back while pushing hard on long climbs.

Always had a high cadence. I could be in a line with other riders and they would comment on my cadence. I spin about 100 rpm on the flats. Very efficient for me though being a big guy, others would guess I was pushing a big gear.

Nowadays, I ride solo as most my partners have retired from cycling or moved away. A buddy gave me his old HR monitor. People who aren't good at reading directions think their equipment is faulty, give it to me and I usually seem to get things going. Wash it up, get it running smoothly.

So now with age, I have found that I feel like I am doing a good effort on rides, WRONG! My hr monitor has pretty much told me that I have been slacking the last couple of years riding solo. So when I am going slow feeling like I'm trying, my hr has told me that I'm not. Maybe it was boredom riding alone not knowing exactly what kind of effort I was putting in.

So I finally decided to use the hr about 5 months later after given to me. I found I should be putting in more effort. My MAX should be 160 with my age at 60. First few rides were trying to keep my rate at 140. I could do so for 20% of the ride. Over a period of a month I monitored my rate trying to get it up in higher ranges for longer periods. I guess it helped with the conditioning.

About a month later, I was able to hold it at 150 and above for 80% of my ride. Wow! Heard it was not possible but read that well trained athletes are able to do so. Maybe I could readjust my max but not sure how to do so. I have hit 172 pushing hard on a ride but for a very short time like 2 minutes.

Either way, just having a number in front of me has given me targets to aim for on rides. Getting better and better at holding it for long periods of time.

So I'm actually having fun and improving with the monitor.

 

[BrianNystrom]

Max heart rate is a very individual thing and the old "220 minus your age" rule of thumb is useless. I'm pushing 67, my fitness is definitely down this year, but my max HR is still 180, +/- a beat or two. That doesn't make me somehow "better" than someone with a lower max HR, it just is what it is. My experience has been that the major limiting factor on hitting my HR is how strong my legs are. If my legs are weak, I can't push my HR to the max. When my legs are strong, I'll be able to hit my max, which then becomes the limiting factor on my performance.

 

[Mr. Beanz]

Max heart rate is a very individual thing and the old "220 minus your age" rule of thumb is useless. I'm pushing 67, my fitness is definitely down this year, but my max HR is still 180, +/- a beat or two. That doesn't make me somehow "better" than someone with a lower max HR, it just is what it is. My experience has been that the major limiting factor on hitting my HR is how strong my legs are. If my legs are weak, I can't push my HR to the max. When my legs are strong, I'll be able to hit my max, which then becomes the limiting factor on my performance.

But how do you know that your max hr is 180 being 7 years older than I?

I can't figure out what my max actually is trying different formulas I've read on the net. Some would suggest that it's 150. Pretty sure that's not correct.

Is there a better formula than 220 minus age?

 

[cobbwheels]

But how do you know that your max hr is 180 being 7 years older than I?

I can't figure out what my max actually is trying different formulas I've read on the net. Some would suggest that it's 150. Pretty sure that's not correct.

Is there a better formula than 220 minus age?

The best "formula" is actually doing all-out sprinting on the bike or stationary bike while wearing a heart rate monitor.

That's how I found mine and mine is 210 bpm. If I used the 220-age formula, my max HR would be 178 which is way under the actual.

Although I won't recommend diving straight into an all-out sprinting effort. It can cause harm. Ease yourself into it.

 

[BrianNystrom]

Exactly, your max HR is simply the maximum you can attain during a maximum effort. If you're working your way into shape, you may see that number increase as you get stronger, but eventually you'll reach a point where you simply can't push it any higher. That's your max HR. There is no formula for it; your max HR is unique to your body. Because it's so individual, max HR is not an indication of your fitness relative to other people.

Max HR does decrease over time, but not by a specific amount per year. Thirty years ago, I used to be able to do hard climbs at a sustained rate of 184 and my max was in the low 190's. It's only dropped 10-15 bpm over that that time. Back then, my resting HR was 48-50, but these days it's in the 60's. Resting HR tends to drop as fitness increases, but again, there's a limit that's specific to your body. One reasonable gauge of fitness is the difference between your resting HR and your max HR. In my case, that number has gone down by 25-30 points over 30 years, which corresponds to the difference in my strength and fitness.

 

[Mr. Beanz]

I did get 193 on today's ride. Not a sprint but a hard effort on a grade for a few seconds. 182 for a good amount of time right before the 193.

But either way, I just view the numbers to gage my efforts on rides. Just a recreational rider so I don't need to get too scientific. Just good to know.

 

[cobbwheels]

One reasonable gauge of fitness is the difference between your resting HR and your max HR. In my case, that number has gone down by 25-30 points over 30 years, which corresponds to the difference in my strength and fitness.

Min and Max HR is essential for calculating VO2max which is a direct measure of cardiovascular fitness.

The formula of VO2max is 15 x max HR / min HR. The formula is reasonably accurate and close to the number you can get from actual testing with very expensive equipment.

 

[cobbwheels]

I did get 193 on today's ride. Not a sprint but a hard effort on a grade for a few seconds. 182 for a good amount of time right before the 193.

But either way, I just view the numbers to gage my efforts on rides. Just a recreational rider so I don't need to get too scientific. Just good to know.

It looks like your Max HR could be higher. I'm guessing somewhere around 200 BPM.

In that case, your best "all day performance" will be between 130 to 150 BPM HR or 65 to 75% of your max HR. 130 to 150 BPM will also be your base training HR. Your best HR to improve metabolic health and maintaining or even improving cycling fitness with minimal risk of overtraining.

 

[Mr. Beanz]

It looks like your Max HR could be higher. I'm guessing somewhere around 200 BPM.

In that case, your best "all day performance" will be between 130 to 150 BPM HR or 65 to 75% of your max HR. 130 to 150 BPM will also be your base training HR. Your best HR to improve metabolic health and maintaining or even improving cycling fitness with minimal risk of overtraining.

Sounding about right. I'll have to bump my number up in my app to see what it does.

 

[mtb_baz]

Hey, mate! Gotta say, I'm stoked to hear you're into it. Bumping up that number is gonna give you a whole new level of trail madness! Can't wait to hear how it goes. Cheers!

 

[pabergel]

Absolutely! Upgrading to 29ers will indeed unleash a whole new beast on the trails. Just remember, with great wheel size comes great responsibility.

As for components, I'd recommend checking out Campagnolo's Record groupset - it's a workhorse that'll keep you pedaling smoothly. And if you're looking for a solid crankset, FSA's K-Force Light is a top choice.

But hey, don't just take my word for it. Toronto's cycling community is filled with knowledgeable enthusiasts who can offer their own two cents. Happy trails!