What Chain Lube?

[threaded]

You have evidence for this? Am I better off leaving my chain unlubricated if I'm not going to put it through an ultrasonic cleaner, or at least a solvent bath?
How many kilometres do you get from your chains?

My evidence is that on oiled chains when I've taken a link out I've found what appears to be grinding paste coating the bearing surfaces, on waxed chains nothing of the sort. Can only suppose that oil has carried the stuff in there. Could be a conspiracy by the manufacturers to sell more chains, put it in there at manufacture, but I don't think they'd get away with that...

I think on a new chain you're probably best off leaving it unlubed for as long as possible if you don't have to time to clean it really well.

 

[Insaneclimber]

I always thought a chain was a throw away item, maby i was wrong?

 

[kdelong]

I have used wax and it was a good lubricant but it was a pain in the but to rewax the chain when it needed it. I have since switched to Prolink and it works really well, even when wet. It is also easier to apply than the wax, although you have to apply it more often. Another nice thing about it is that it seems to clean the chain when it is applied.

Back when I did use wax, I couldn't find regular parrafin wax, so I pulled out an old apple cinnamon candle that I never used and melted that. It worked great and smelled good to begin with. I don't know what chemical changes may have happened but after awhile it started to stink sort of like rotten milk and I had to clean the chain in mineral spirits to get rid of it.

 

[p38lightning]

I've watched this thread for several days and been reluctant to add my 2 cents, but I use Belray motorcycle chain lube. First I clean the chain and sprockets with citrus degreaser, using a chain cleaning machine and thoroughly rinse and dry. Then I apply the chainlube all the while turning the crank with the bike upside down (don't have a repair stand) The I wipe off the excess especially from the outside of the side plates. Then a short ride and a complete dry rag wipe down of the chain. At this point the vehicle of the lube has evaporated ,leaving only an excellent tenacious grease, similar to the lube found on a new chain. This grease tends to stick dirt on the surface and not allow it into the roller/pin area. I usually get 2 cleanings before needing to re-lube. Cleaning is probably more important with regard to wear than lube choice.

 

[garage sale GT]

I have used wax and it was a good lubricant but it was a pain in the but to rewax the chain when it needed it. I have since switched to Prolink and it works really well, even when wet. It is also easier to apply than the wax, although you have to apply it more often. Another nice thing about it is that it seems to clean the chain when it is applied.

Kdelong,
How long do you get before the chain starts to squeak and you have to rewax?

 

[kleng]

Kdelong,
How long do you get before the chain starts to squeak and you have to rewax?

.

If you like wax try White Lightining. I always try and get most of the old lube off before applying another layer.

 

[Fujiman]

CAMPYBOB, where in N.E. ohio are you from? I am guessing the Massillon area? I am from the warren area, anyway thanks for all the advise everyone. I think I'll just clean the chain with a chain scrubber and re-oil with prolink wet lube.

I'm also in N.E. Ohio, Fujiman.

You can try any of the popular dry lubricants on the market, but be advised that your chain and gear teeth wear may be accelerated. A dry-lubed chain running a bit cleaner vs a wet-lubed (oil/grease) that's a bit more cruded up with leaves might be a wash though.

If you are riding on wet leaves (such as the Towpath Trail in Massillon) the front tire is going to continue to spray them into the driveline where they'll be ground up regardless of the lubricant. Even riding our dusty, dirty paved streets I just use the Park chain cleaner every 250-300 miles or so.

 

[kdelong]

Kdelong,
How long do you get before the chain starts to squeak and you have to rewax?

When I was using wax, I would re-wax about every 3 months or so, but I never let it go long enough to get squeaks. At that point I was only putting around 125 miles a week on the bike so someone who rides more would probably have to do it more often. All I can really tell you is that it works, but it is a pain in the butt when compared to a good wet lube like Prolink. Now I just wipe the chain after every ride and apply new lube every 200 miles or so. It beats waxing, where you have to get the wax above 400 F just to make sure that it runs into the bearing surfaces of the chain, and then dealing with a hot waxy chain until it cools down. I don't ride in the rain like I used to, nor do I do a lot of riding on my MTB, so chain contamination is not a problem that I encounter frequently.

 

[garage sale GT]

If you like wax try White Lightining. I always try and get most of the old lube off before applying another layer.

Ahhh, white lightning. Here's to the old corn liquor. Whitens the teeth, sweetens the breath, and makes childbirth a pleasure. Aren't you afraid you'll fall off your bike, though?

But seriously, folks, I have tried White Lightning and Pedro's chain wax but it seems they both rub off the parts of the chain which wear and start to squeak in about a hundred miles or so. I always put on plenty and try to run it in while it's still wet.

I am gonna have to try this hot waxing if you say it lasts three months.

 

[garage sale GT]

Awful lot easier to clean wax off, generally you can just rub it from your hands with a cloth.

This is the primary reason I am concerned it may not last long enough. Low film strength is not a desirable quality in a lubricant.

 

[kdelong]

Ahhh, white lightning. Here's to the old corn liquor. Whitens the teeth, sweetens the breath, and makes childbirth a pleasure. Aren't you afraid you'll fall off your bike, though?

But seriously, folks, I have tried White Lightning and Pedro's chain wax but it seems they both rub off the parts of the chain which wear and start to squeak in about a hundred miles or so. I always put on plenty and try to run it in while it's still wet.

I am gonna have to try this hot waxing if you say it lasts three months.

Use regular paraffin wax and make sure you heat it to at least 400 degrees farenheit so that it will flow into the bearing surfaces. I used an old electric frying pan that I picked up at a garage sale(imagine that) to heat it. You don't want to use any kind of open flame devices to heat it, and you might want to keep a fire extinguisher around just in case. Clean and dry your chain and then dump it into the melted wax. Let it soak for about 30 minutes, stirring it around a couple of times so that the wax will be able to penetrate into all of the spaces between the bearing sufaces. You will also want to use a pair of tongs or pliers to lift it out after soaking.

After you remove the chain and hang it up to dry and/or cool, you will notice that there is a bunch of gunk in the bottom of the pan. This will be any dirt and old lube that was left on the chain. Just pour off the clean paraffin from the top of the pan into a suitable container for storage, and let the dirty paraffin in the bottom of the pan harden, scrape it out, and discard it.

You are going to notice white flakes of paraffin when you put the chain back on the bike and you will also see them on the chain after the first couple of rides. This is normal as the paraffin on the external surfaces will come off. The paraffin that is in the bearing surfaces will not come off until you melt it again in the pan, or whatever you use. I tried a double boiler once but it didn't get the paraffin hot enough.

This is a bit of a pain because you have to break the chain everytime you relube it. Use also have the potential fire hazards to contend with, as well as taking precautions not to burn yourself on the hot wax.

 

[garage sale GT]

Use regular paraffin wax and make sure you heat it to at least 400 degrees farenheit...

I have not tried it yet and remain skeptical.

If you use a water based method to clean or degrease your chain, bear in mind that any water still on the chain will flash vaporize and possibly spatter you with hot parraffin.

 

[vascdoc]

I'm also in N.E. Ohio, Fujiman.

You can try any of the popular dry lubricants on the market, but be advised that your chain and gear teeth wear may be accelerated. A dry-lubed chain running a bit cleaner vs a wet-lubed (oil/grease) that's a bit more cruded up with leaves might be a wash though.

If you are riding on wet leaves (such as the Towpath Trail in Massillon) the front tire is going to continue to spray them into the driveline where they'll be ground up regardless of the lubricant. Even riding our dusty, dirty paved streets I just use the Park chain cleaner every 250-300 miles or so.

I also live outside of Cleveland. I personally do not like the Park Chain Cleaner because it has an oil residue that it leaves on the chain. I like the citrus chain cleaner products and then use Prolink Gold.

 

[threaded]

I have not tried it yet and remain skeptical.

If you use a water based method to clean or degrease your chain, bear in mind that any water still on the chain will flash vaporize and possibly spatter you with hot parraffin.

Don't know why, but this sort of comment makes me LOL. Momma never teach you how to use a deep fat frier? Same principle: introduce things slowly, you never throw a cup of cold water into a pan...

I prefer to put the chain on top of the cold wax. As it melts, the water boils off, long before the wax reaches temperature.

Also I use an old spoke to pick the chain up and move it around in the wax.

 

[kdelong]

I have not tried it yet and remain skeptical.

If you use a water based method to clean or degrease your chain, bear in mind that any water still on the chain will flash vaporize and possibly spatter you with hot parraffin.

Back when I used wax, it was OK to clean your chain in a solvent such as gasoline or paint thinner. Mind you this was in the days before anyone had heard of the ozone layer or global warming, so it was OK from an uninformed point of veiw. After they were cleaned, you hung them up to dry for a few hours. You can also allow your chain to dry after cleaning it using a water based method to keep any type of splatter to a minimum.

Please note that I do not think that this is the best way to lube a chain or that it exactly makes a whole lot of sense! I have tried it and it does work and lasts a good long time, but I don't do it anymore because it is too time consuming and basically a pain in the rear end when compared to the ease of using some of the modern wet lubes available. However, wax was the best thing available 25 - 30 years ago! C'mon garage sale GT, you were riding back then, surely you remember using motor oil or WD40(insert gasps of horror).

 

[garegin]

wow my eyes are falling out of their sockets. being a complete noob all i did all my life was just spray more lube on salty (from the winter) and grimy 100 dollar retail bike.
recently my hub broke and completely opened my eyes about what ****ing noob i was that i went to the bikeshop for a freewheel and brake adjustment (!!) every two weeks.

thanks for listening to my rant.

 

[garage sale GT]

wow my eyes are falling out of their sockets. being a complete noob all i did all my life was just spray more lube on salty (from the winter) and grimy 100 dollar retail bike.
recently my hub broke and completely opened my eyes about what ****ing noob i was that i went to the bikeshop for a freewheel and brake adjustment (!!) every two weeks.

thanks for listening to my rant.

I think your axle bent, which led the bearings to **** out, which broke your hub.

 

[garegin]

but isnt the axle part of the hub?

 

[threaded]

Someone mentioned WD40, DO NOT put WD40 anywhere near your chain, or any part of a bike really. If you feel a need to spray WD40 about, you should resist, resist, resist.

 

[kdelong]

Someone mentioned WD40, DO NOT put WD40 anywhere near your chain, or any part of a bike really. If you feel a need to spray WD40 about, you should resist, resist, resist.

You didn't notice my "insert gasps of horror"? Believe it or not, in the 1970's, WD40 was the chain lube of choice for many US riders. It was either WD40, wax, or motor oil which left nice black streaks on anything that the chain touched and collected dirt more efficiently than a shovel. And then Tri-Lube was invented and WD40 was tossed like a two headed baby. Am I the only one on this forum that is this old or does anyone else remember this too?