what do you think of this frame - is it worth renovating?

[lubaloo]

not sure - the headset is just about ok though - it's a bit grindy, but
I've never noticed this when the bike was assembled, so I'm hoping not
to have to replace this part

 

[lubaloo]

my gut feeling is renovate : )
I'm sure I'd grow to love a new bike but would have to spend over £700
to get one I really loved!

If I go to a place to powder coat, what's the best way of protecting
the threads on the brakes / hub / headset?

 

[James Thomson]

"sothach" <[email protected]> wrote:

> What size is the steerer tube?

It's 1".

> I had a great Giant steel-framed MTB from about this era, but when
> the forks exploded on me (literally, they where RockShox), I couldn't
> easily or cheaply get replacements with a 1" steerer.

That's far a bigger problem for suspension forks that it is for rigid ones.
Tange still make generic rigid 1" forks, but it's unlikely lulaboo's fork
will need replacing.


"lubaloo" <[email protected]> wrote

> not sure - the headset is just about ok though - it's a bit grindy,
> but I've never noticed this when the bike was assembled, so I'm
> hoping not to have to replace this part

It's likely that your frame uses a JIS headset, the dimensions of which are
very slightly different from the ISO standard, so bear that in mind if you
do decide to replace it. You can have the frame and fork milled to ISO (the
difference is tiny, but significant) at the same time as a respray, but JIS
headsets are still available, though rare.

James Thomson

 

[Jim Price]

Ian Blake wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>You need to establish the BCD (bolt circle diameter) of the rings, as
>
>
> BCD is Bolt Circle Dimension (or Distance) it is not a diameter.

I believe by expanding my abbreviation I have made it clear that I am
not abbreviating Bolt Circle Dimension (or Distance). Yes, I know that
could get confusing, but see below...

> http://www.settlecycles.co.uk/BESPOKE/TA/ringsGuide.htm?pid=2299

The approach taken seems to be: standards - they're good! lets have some
more.
Chicken cycles (a major UK distributor, and the people who probably sell
TA chainrings to the shop at the end of your link) say on their website:
http://www.chickencycles.co.uk/products/chainrings/
BCD is bolt circle dimension (distance from centre to centre of adjacent
bolt holes)
PCD is pitch circle diameter
Then later on the same page go on to use the term "bolt circle diameter"
(without any abreviation) to mean what they have just described as PCD.

> Sheldon Browns excellent glossary seems to be wrong on this matter his
> glossary seems to imply BCD=PCD which it is not.

He describes PCD as an English variant of BCD, but that to him, pitch
circle diameter means something else.

JimP

 

[Jim Price]

lubaloo wrote:
> "Do you like the feel of the bike you've got? "
> Yes, but I haven't got much experience of anything else

So that sort of means there isn't anything wrong with the frame other
than the paintwork.

> "Do you have a desire to try and improve the performance of the bike,
> and
> if so in what areas? "
>
> No - I'm happy with the performance. I want practical reliability, I'm
> not interested in impressing anyone with the bike (although it was a
> different story when I got the bike in 1988!)

What others have been saying about hub gears will give you practical
reliability. Get a good rear hub, a new chain and a new front chainring
and get them properly adjusted and fitted and your bike will not require
much maintenance. The new Sturmey Archer 8 speed hub looks like good
value compared to the Rohloff. Use a 1/8" chain and chainring and get
the chainline dead straight, and ride off into the sunset. The only
downsides I can think of are that some people find repairing a rear
puncture more of a hassle with a hub gear (largely addressed by getting
some good puncture resistant tyres, and keeping them at the right
pressure), and your gear changers are going to be different and
somewhere else on the handlebars. Things will be more reliable if you
don't try and incorporate the front gear changing equiment into anything
more than a (rather redundant) chain guide for the 1/8" chain.

JimP

 

[Simon Brooke]

in message <[email protected]>,
[email protected] ('[email protected]') wrote:

> It's from a specialized rock combo, late 80s.
>
> Here's some spec:
> http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/****her/peugeot/rca3.jpg
>
> Here's a pic:
> http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/****her/peugeot/rc14.jpg
>
> Frame -
>
> triple butted chrome-moly main frame chrome-moly stays and forks
>
> ** Questions you might be able to help with: **
>
> * Is this a decent frame

Yes, although judging by the height/reach of the stem one size larger
might fit you better.

> * How much would a new frame of equivalent quality cost today?

Triple butted steel, £600 and upwards, but only because such frames are
no longer mass produced and it would have to be custom built. Frames of
similar quality in aluminium from about £200 (see e.g.
<URL:http://www.bikes-dolan.uk.com/en-us/dept_93.html>), to about £1,000
(see e.g. Carpe Diem on
<URL:http://www.hewittcycles.co.uk/_bikefittingsite_new/frames/cyclo_x/>)
in titanium £600 and upwards (e.g.
<URL:http://www.on-one.co.uk/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=35&MMN_position=30:30>);
in carbon from about £900 (e.g. Boreas Terra CX on the same page as the
Carpe Diem) up to about £2400 (e.g.
<URL:http://www.awcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b7s184p9616&tbv=COLNAGO_C50_Cross_FRAMES_&_FORKS_Frames_-_Cyclo_Cross>).
These are all cyclo-cross frames - the nearest modern equivalent of your
rock combo. They're all from good makers, and the £200 Dolan is a good
frame, so you don't /have/ to spend silly money.

> * What do you think of the angles - are bikes very different shapes
> now?

'Compact' frames with sloping top tubes are now common, but there's no
very big advantage from the rider's point of view.

> thanks for the advice
>
> * Should I spend £80 respraying (paintwork is knackered) or buy a new
> / 2nd hand frame?

Depends how much you like that bike. Shiny new is very nice, but having
the bike you've always had (provided you like it) is very nice too.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they
;; do it from  religious conviction."          -- Pascal

 

[Simon Brooke]

in message <[email protected]>, Ian Blake
('NoNotMe@NotAnywhere') wrote:

> If you love your bike renovate it as best you can. It deserves it.
> If it is just a bike, buy a new/sh. one. You deserve it.

Well said. I think that sums up the way I'd look at it, too.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; all in all you're just another click in the call
;; -- Minke Bouyed

 

[David Martin]

lubaloo wrote:

> If I go to a place to powder coat, what's the best way of protecting
> the threads on the brakes / hub / headset?

Strip down the bike completely. If you are going to change headset then
remove the fixed cups.

Put sacrificial bolts in the mudguard/bottle cage/brakes . These will
be M5 thread and are readily obtainable from places like B&Q (or
cheaper in bulk online)

A sacrificial bb is also a good idea, failing that, masking
tape/paper/card over anything you don't want painted (eg headset, BB,
fork threads, brake pivots etc.)

That's it. Masking tape is good enough. And it should peel off quite
easily when the job is done.

...d

 

[[email protected]]

<[email protected]> wrote:

> >You need to establish the BCD (bolt circle diameter) of the rings, as

Ian Blake wrote:

> BCD is Bolt Circle Dimension (or Distance) it is not a diameter.
>
> http://www.settlecycles.co.uk/BESPOKE/TA/ringsGuide.htm?pid=2299
>
> Sheldon Browns excellent glossary seems to be wrong on this matter his
> glossary seems to imply BCD=PCD which it is not.

The fact that my Bicycle Glossary disagrees with the Settle Cycles site
doesn't necessarily mean that I'm the one who is wrong.

There are three different "circle dimensions:" diameter, radius and
circumference. Calling the bolt-to-bolt distance a "circle dimension"
is highly non-standard.

Indeed, if you scroll down that page to the bottom, you'll see that the
term "bolt circle diameter" is used even on the same page!

The abbreviation "BCD" for "Bolt Circle Diameter" is very well
established in general usage, and making up a different definition for
the same initials strikes me as very ill-advised on the part of
Settle's Webmaster.

"PCD" is only used in British English, and in my opinion it is a poor
choice for two reasons:

·It is less obviously understandable than BCD.

·In the description of gears/sprockets, "Pitch Circle Diameter" has a
different, well established meaning (basically it's the circle formed
by the centres of the chain rollers, the effective working diameter of
the sprocket.)

Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary" Brown
+-----------------------------------------+
| Man invented language to satisfy his |
| deep need to complain. -- Lily Tomlin |
+-----------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

 

[Clive George]

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
<[email protected]> wrote:

>The abbreviation "BCD" for "Bolt Circle Diameter" is very well
>established in general usage, and making up a different definition for
>the same initials strikes me as very ill-advised on the part of
>Settle's Webmaster.

To be fair to Settle, they've just copied what they've been told by their
wholesaler. I think Chicken are to blame here.

cheers,
clive

 

[lubaloo]

thanks - you've helped convince me it's wort hanging onto - which was
what I was hoping!

"Yes, although judging by the height/reach of the stem one size larger
might fit you better. "

Amazing - how do you know how tall I am?

 

[James Thomson]

"Simon Brooke" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Yes, although judging by the height/reach of the stem one size
> larger might fit you better.

That's not a picture of lubaloo's bike, but that's just the way they sized
things in those days. Top tubes were low for standover clearance, short and
horizontal, with most bikes showing a lot of seatpost and needing a stem
with lots of rise and reach. My Stumpjumper came with a 22.5" top tube and
a 150mm stem. Modern thinking would take 50mm off the stem and add it to
the top tube, and the fork and headtube would both be longer, bringing the
front end up high.

The drop bars mean that the stem needs even more rise than was normal for a
flat bar, but rather less reach.

James Thomson

 

[Simon Brooke]

in message <[email protected]>,
lubaloo ('[email protected]') wrote:

> thanks - you've helped convince me it's wort hanging onto - which was
> what I was hoping!
>
> "Yes, although judging by the height/reach of the stem one size larger
> might fit you better. "
>
> Amazing - how do you know how tall I am?

I don't, but that's a long and tall stem. I would rather have a larger
frame and a shorter, lower stem; the bike will be stronger and the
handling possibly slightly better.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
"The result is a language that... not even its mother could
love. Like the camel, Common Lisp is a horse designed by
committee. Camels do have their uses."
;; Scott Fahlman, 7 March 1995

 

[Simon Brooke]

in message <[email protected]>, James
Thomson ('[email protected]') wrote:

> "Simon Brooke" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Yes, although judging by the height/reach of the stem one size
>> larger might fit you better.
>
> That's not a picture of lubaloo's bike

Ah! Sorry, thought it was. Ignore me then.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

The Conservative Party is now dead. The corpse may still be
twitching, but resurrection is not an option - unless Satan
chucks them out of Hell as too objectionable even for him.

 

[lubaloo]

i actually want to make my bike more upright - I've got a huge Tioga
stem, that was great for getting down and going fast but now I want
something a bit more upright.

The one I have is very similar to this one:
http://www.bikepro.com/products/stems/stems_jpg/f2f_t_bone_stem.jpg

Are stems now more common in two pieces?

 

[JimP]

lubaloo wrote:
> i actually want to make my bike more upright - I've got a huge Tioga
> stem, that was great for getting down and going fast but now I want
> something a bit more upright.
>
> The one I have is very similar to this one:
> http://www.bikepro.com/products/stems/stems_jpg/f2f_t_bone_stem.jpg
>
> Are stems now more common in two pieces?

Yes, but. The stems which are commonly available in two pieces will
require an extra piece of gear or replacement forks for you to be able
to use them on your bike. Something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-quill-Kalin...itemZ7188231122QQcategoryZ56194QQcmdZViewItem
will give you a more upright position. Shorter reach and higher than
the one in the picture you provided a link to.
(in case that link got munged by being too long, here is a shorter one:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?U41B21CFB
but it will only work until monday lunchtime anyway...)

You would also need to get a seperate brake cable hanger with that
particular stem.

JimP

Posting via google until the Pipex news server nearest me starts
working again.