jim beam wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> And here is a white at 3.5 volts.
>> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...toreId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=183231
>>
>>
>> There is also a link to a PDF file to show the wavelengths and
>> chemistry. This manufacturer, whom I have never heard of before, does
>> not use a simple LED to energize a flourescent to get white, as some
>> have suggested, but puts out a spectrum that is heavy on the blue end.
>>
>> I could post more from Jameco, Mouser, Allied, etc....., until people
>> got sick of the subject.
>>
>> Bill Baka
>
>
> but that's the point! the larger the band gap, the larger the voltage
> required! you change chemistry to change the band gap and voltage
> varies accordingly!
I know that, but part of my point was that the number of chemistries is
growing as people search for real 'white' light, and not the blueish
tint that was shown in the pdf I pointed to, or a super efficient and
bright chemistry that will surpass all previous attempts. All of the
traffic lights in my somewhat backwater town have gone to single
wavelength red, yellow, green that can be seen even in bright sunlight.
I have only seen one light with one burned out LED in the green and they
don't see fit to replace it since it has been like that for over 2 years.
Mainstream LEDs emit in one very tight wavelength, kind of the light
version of a radio crystal.
Even I don't want to try to calculate the band gaps that are used all
over the map, like the Jameco part I referred to. That one tries to be
white and the spectrum is not a spike at one wavelength but a wide blue
tapering off on the red end of things. I had to download Chinese fonts
for my Acrobat just to see the whole data sheet, and I only want to
spend so much 'unpaid' time on research.
Pay me and I will make a spreadsheet of every LED ever made and the band
gaps of all the possible materials.
There are probably only a handful of people who care what makes the
light as long as it works.
I'm one since I have a Cat-Eye 5 LED setup with through hole white LEDs
and I might want to upgrade it if I can find some better white LEDs.
I was also thinking of building a miniature boost/buck universal
converter to drive the LEDs at whatever brightness I wanted to dial in
with an old fashioned pot. 3.3 volts on the LEDs, 4.8 volts from my NiMH
batteries, and 6 volts from Alkalines. I wouldn't mind sucking the
Alkalines for their last gasp, but the NiMH rechargeables might not like
that very much.
OK, enough electronic stuff.
Bill Baka