FWIW. Well, your current rear wheel may use a Freewheel AND may-or-not have a Freehub ...
- if your rear wheel does not have a Freehub ([COLOR= #808080]and, even if it does[/COLOR]), then you will probably want a new rear hub onto which your current rim will have to be relaced OR a complete, new rear wheel ...
- if your rear wheel has a cassette, then you can just use a SHORT STACK ([COLOR= #0000ff]8-out-of-9-cogs[/COLOR]) on the "compact" Shimano Freehub body
You would need a [COLOR= #ff0000]
9-speed Shiman-or-SRAM CASSETTE [/COLOR]...
You probably would need [COLOR= #ff0000]
a different Shimano rear derailleur [/COLOR]since most 7-speed rear derailleurs have
fatter pulley wheels (this is really only an issue with regard to spoke clearance when the chain is on the largest cog) ...
You would need a[COLOR= #ff0000]
9-speed Shimano chain[/COLOR] ...
You would need a new, [COLOR= #ff0000]
9-speed Shimano FRONT derailleur [/COLOR]...
If you can do the work yourself ([COLOR= #ff8c00]including relacing & truing the rear wheel[/COLOR]), then you need to
[COLOR= #ff0000]add at least $100[/COLOR] to the cost of the shifters ... some rear derailleurs cost more than $100, so you probably want to be as wise a shopper as you can be unless you happen to have an unlimited budget ...
- if you have an LBS do the work, look to double-or-more whatever amount you would spend if it is a DIY upgrade ...
- the least expensive components which your LBS will 'have' will probably be LX
- eBay will probably be your best friend for most of the components you choose to buy
I'm a big fan of updating-and-upgrading ... BUT, it is fraught with hazards (mostly, financial) if you don't know what you are doing.
- most of the components you buy for your current can be moved to another bike in the future if you deem that to be worthwhile
I am ALSO a big fan of
GripShifts, BTW ... there are advantages to GripShifts beyond what
Froze mentioned.