What new bike do I need?
- Thread starter bgoetz
- Start date
A simple search on netiquette would do but giving useful advice as Alienator just did on using an eccentric hub to adjust chain tension in a single speed bike that lacks horizontal dropouts is not even closely related to trolling.
I get it that you're new to cycling and don't understand how to care for your bike (e.g. the rusted cassette question) or know much about bike parts (e.g. the 650 b wheel question) or know much about decent bikes (e.g. the repeated recommendations for department store CCM bikes) but do you really not understand what trolling is?
Take it as a compliment that folks are accusing you of being a troll as the alternative explanation is that you're an idiot and in the balance being called a troll is preferable.
-Dave
i aint new to cycling ive cycled for years except i dont go so far into it to care to learn about the coolest new 400 dollar shifting mechanism because i dont care.
all i wanted was some tip on cleaning the rust off a winter cassette and peoples experience with what to do.
shows your mentality if you call people idiot for promoting an affordable bike like a ccm just because it doesnt fit your peer groups ideals.
you fricken bike sheep
all i wanted was some tip on cleaning the rust off a winter cassette and peoples experience with what to do.
shows your mentality if you call people idiot for promoting an affordable bike like a ccm just because it doesnt fit your peer groups ideals.
you fricken bike sheep
Well I guess you're not actually trolling and we'll have to go with idiot.
Hmmm, you start an account on something called 'Cycling Forums' dispense a ton of bad information demonstrating how little you know about cycling and then refer to the community here as 'fricken bike sheep'. So I guess idiot really does fit.
Well I guess it's the same as AOG, time to add another to the block list and just start ignoring the inane garbage you spew.
-Dave
Hmmm, you start an account on something called 'Cycling Forums' dispense a ton of bad information demonstrating how little you know about cycling and then refer to the community here as 'fricken bike sheep'. So I guess idiot really does fit.
Well I guess it's the same as AOG, time to add another to the block list and just start ignoring the inane garbage you spew.
-Dave
AOG's got nothing on this chap. we're looking at a whole new level in attention seeking. The last few days have revealed a truly distressed individual who has apparently even introduced a competing alter-ego, albeit with identically stunted grammar and syntax. I cant imagine any closer existence to hell on earth.
I'm sorry for underestimating your ability, then.
Getting the drivetrain sussed out is the tricky part. An English or Italian threaded frame with horizontal dropouts and 120 mm rear hub spacing is the most straightforward way to go because this most closely resembles the configuration of a real track bike. For the cranks, bottom bracket and wheels I recommend buying new components designed for single speed rather than trying to make old road components fit.
Inexpensive alloy single speed crankset that will be compatible with a JIS square taper, ISIS, or Octalink bottom bracket are available all over the place, including your local shop if they have an account with J&B Importers. The people who sell you the crank will help you select the appropriate BB. Basically, the BB spindle needs to be long enough that the chainring doesn't hit the chainstay but short enough that you can create a straight chain line to the cog on the rear wheel.
A single speed wheel with 120 mm spacing isn't hard to find for about $100-200, depending on the quality. Most of these will have flip-flop rear hubs, a fixed gear on one side and threading for a freewheel on the other. If you're going the freewheel route, you'll need to buy the freewheel. Here's a tip. Most of the gaudy colored deep-dish fixie wheels you see online are ridiculously heavy and cheap. Look for 700c wheels with 32 spokes, 3-cross lacing, wheels that look like normal road wheels except for the hub. They will attach to the frame using nuts instead of quick-release skewers. Get used to carrying a 15 mm spanner with you for fixing flats
Use a 1/8" pitch single-speed chain to connect. Use bottom bracket shims behind the drive-side cup to tweak the chain line, if necessary. Add other components and accessories as you wish. Select judiciously and you might end up with something as elegant as this.
Any questions?
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